258 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND C0T1AGE GARDENER. 
[ March 26, 1885. 
rost, and where the bushes are enclosed under wire netting fern thrown 
upon the netting answers the same purpose quite well. Strawberry beds 
if at all weedy should be hoed, and in doing this it is well to loosen the 
whole of the surface of the soil between the plants. Then when growth 
begins sewage may be poured on freely over the whole of the surface with 
material advantage both to foliage and blossom. In a light sandy porous 
soil this early use of sewage insures a heavy crop of fine fruit if the plants 
are healthy and strong, for the soil is charged with nutriment which 
stimulates vigorous growth before the flowers expand ; but if the sewage 
is withheld till the fruit is set, as is often done, it will be too late to 
achieve our object of producing large bold flower clusters borne upon 
sturdy stems. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —The prevalence of north-easterly winds 
and frost at night has necessitated incessant firing, notwithstanding which 
the growth ha 3 been satisfactory in all cases, more especially of the earliest 
fruit treesj the young shoots of which having been neatly heeled-in with 
a tie close to the base, and the superfluous growths removed or pinched 
back to form spurs. The trees should be allowed to make free growth 
until they are sufficiently advanced for the general tying down to the 
trellis ; but they must not be allowed to come in contact with the glass, 
and if any of the shoots show a disposition to become too strong, pinch 
out the points before they have time to become unduly gross. Proceed 
with thinning the fruit, taking into account in performing this operation 
the strength of the trees, and when the general health is good few need 
be left for removal after the stoning period, whilst with trees that are 
gross or otherwise unhealthy a liberal per-centage must be left for removal 
after stoning. Size and quality being the first considerations, one fruit to 
every square foot of trellis covered by the trees is a good crop, and any 
excess will affect the weight of the fruit and its quality, seriously 
crippling the trees for future crops, if, indeed, it does not shorten their 
existence. Under the influence of drying winds and bright sunshine the 
trees will require good syringing with tepid soft water twice a day, and, 
if not already done, the surface roots should be mulched with short 
manure and well watered—in the first instance with pure tepid water 
and afterwards with tepid liquid manure. Turn off the heat early when 
the sun is likely to be powerful, which will lessen the necessity for so 
much air-giving, which is unadvisable when a cold sharp wind prevails, 
admitting no more at such times than is absolutely necessary to prevent 
the temperature rising too high. Aim at a steady minimum temperature 
of 60°, and 5° more by day from fire heat, with 10° to 15 Q from sun heat 
until after the fruit is stoned. 
Succession, Houses .—Disbud the trees, commencing at the extremities 
and work gradually to the base. Pinch for spurs, or cut away all shoots 
that are not required for next year’s crop or the support of the present 
one. Fumigate as soon as the trees are out of bloom, being careful to 
have the foliage dry and not to give an overdose, as the foliage of the 
Peach is soon injured. Rub off all small and badly placed fruits as soon 
as the most prominent show signs of taking the lead. Syringe vigorously 
morning and afternoon, taking care to wet the under side of the leaves 
and the strong shoots. The afternoon syringing should be done sufficiently 
early to allow the foliage to become dry before night. The morning 
syringing should be done early, giving a little air shortly after, gradually 
increasing it, and close with a rise from sun heat about 3 p.m. Water all 
inside borders copiously, and keep them mulched with short manure. 
Late Houses .—Turn on the heat in the early part of the day and main¬ 
tain it at 50° after the blossoms are expanded, and admit a little air day 
and night, so as to cause a circulation of air. The night temperature 
should be kept from falling below 40°. Admit air freely when the 
weather is favourable, not allowing an advance above 55° without free 
ventilation, and full at 60° to 65°. Shake the trees, or by other means 
distribute the pollen when the air is warm and dry. In unheated houses, 
which are a great mistake, the object should be to ventilate as early in 
the day as is consistent with safety, increasing it with the solar heat, and 
having it full at 50°, and by closing early in the afternoon sufficient heat 
may be enclosed to prevent the temperature falling through the night to 
an injuriously low degree. Whatever watering is necessary should be 
done in the morning of a likely fine day, so that any superfluous moisture 
may be expelled before closing time. 
Pines. —March winds have such an influence on highly heated 
structures as to necessitate the relaxation of fixed rules in relation to 
internal temperatures, which should be permitted to the extent of 5° or 
so according to circumstances. Increased attention will now be necessary 
on account of the activity commencing in the plants. A strict regard 
must be given the state of the heat at the roots lest it should become too 
hot, and thereby injuriously affect the plants. A temperature of 90° to 
95° at the base of the pots is certainly safe and reliable, above which there 
is danger. In the case of fermenting beds, which are much influenced 
by atmospheric depressions and elevations, keep abundance of moisture in 
the compartments where fruit is swelling, and let the heat be kept at 70° 
at night, and 75° to 80° in the daytime. Ventilate at 80°, and close at 
from 80° to 85° with sun heat. Syringe occasionally overhead at closing 
time, avoiding all such plants as are in flower. Remove all superfluous 
suckers before they become large, unless stock is wanted. The plants 
should be examined individually at least once every week, and watered 
freely when needed with moderately strong liquid manure, always being 
careful to use it in a tepid state. In the successional houses keep an 
invigorating and genial atmosphere about the plants, maintaining a night 
temperature of about 65°, and 70° by day artificially, with a rise of 10° to 
15° from sun. Suckers are best kept rather close, and during very sunny 
weather a slight shade should be used, the night temperature being kept 
at G0°, and that will suffice for the day by artificial means, the object 
being not to accelerate top growth, but to cause the free rooting of the 
suckers before top growth takes place. 
Cherry House.— Cherry trees are liable to be attacked bv black and 
green aphides, their presence being indicated by the curling up of the 
leaves. If either of these pests infest the trees means should be employed 
to eradicate them at once. Perhaps there is nothing so efficacious for 
exterminating these as quassia water. Quassia chips at the rate of 2 ozs. 
to a gallon of cold water allowed to stand twenty-four hours should be 
applied by means of a fine syringe, being careful to wet every part 
thoroughly, which may be repeated as necessity arise until the fruit is 
about half grown, when it should be discontinued until the fruit is cleared 
off the trees, when, if necessity arise, it may be used again. In order 
that the liquid may pass through the syringe freely, the chips should be 
enclosed in a bag and submerged, and are all the better if boiled, for a 
quarter of an hour. Grubs are also very troublesome, and are indicated 
by the curling of the leaves. They can only be disposed by hand¬ 
pricking, a tedious though effectual process. As growth in the 
trees and likewise fruit is now proceeding rapidly, employ the syringe 
forcibly over the trees in the morning, and again in the early part of the 
afternoon of sunny days. Commence ventilating the house at 55°, in¬ 
creasing it with the sun heat, and when the external air is mild admit 
air to the fullest extent between 60° and 65°, and close for the day,at 60°. 
During the night the temperature should be kept at about 50°, but a 
comparatively low night temperature is best. In order to swell off the 
Cherries satisfactorily the borders should be well mulched, and a little 
stimulating agent given in the shape of weak tepid liquid manure. All 
growths, except the terminal ones and those properly placed for laying in 
where fresh ones are required, should be pinched at the fifth or sixth 
joint, and the others may be heeled in at the base and tied in when they 
require it. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Greenhouse Climbers .—The various climbing plants that a.re used for 
furnishing the roof of these structures should be pruned and trained before 
they commence growth. Great care should be taken to destroy all insects 
that may have become established upon them, or much trouble and 
annoyance will be caused. The plants employed for this purpose, 
whether in pots or small borders, should bave a top-dessing at once. As 
much of the surface soil as possible must be removed, and fresh rich 
material supplied. A compost of good fibry loam and one-third of decayed 
manure is very suitable for this purpose, and will be found to assist the 
plants wonderfully during growth. Every precaution must be taken to 
protect the young shoots of Lapagerias from slugs. The compost recom¬ 
mended will be very suitable for the plants if the border in which they 
are growing is well filled with roots. 
Primulas .—For the earliest batch of these plants seed can be sown. 
Pots or pans must be filled with a light compost composed of. loam, half- 
decayed leaf mould, and a little sand, the two former being used in 
equal proportion, and passed through a fine sieve. A little of the fine 
leaf rumild should be scattered on the surface, and then sow the seed. 
Primula seed must never be covered, or it wdll fail to germinate. After 
sowing give a watering, and cover the pot or pan with a square of glass, 
upon which is placed a covering of damp moss to prevent evaporation ; 
if possible plunge the pot to prevent the soil drying round the sides, for 
if the soil once becomes dry after the seed is sown failure is sure to be the 
result. Ventilate gradually after the seedlings are up, and grow them 
close to the glass in a temperature of 60°. As soon as the seedlings are 
large enough they may be pricked out into other pots or pans, giving them 
sufficient room to grow without drawing until they are large enough for 
2-inch pots. The young plants must be shaded from strong sun. 
Double Primulas.— For supplying flowers for cutting in quantity these 
are amongst the most serviceable plants that can be grown. Many of 
those that commenced flowering in early autumn will now have ceased 
to do so. The lower leaves may be removed and the plants earthed up 
with light sandy soil, and if kept moderately moist ia a temperature of 
55°, and partially shaded from strong sun, they will soon emit roots from 
the collar, which allows of the plants being divided and the stock 
increased without the risk of losing any of the plants. If unnecessary 
to increase the stock this is a good plan, and allows of the plants being 
potted again deeply and many of the lower roots removed. 
Primula obconica .—This is one of the finest and freest flowering 
plants that can be grown in pots for decoration during the autumn, 
winter, and spring. It will continue flowering from October until May , 
in fact, it need never be removed from the conservatory. The seed may 
be sown at once on the surface of the soil in heat, the treatment given for 
the other Primulas suiting this exactly; and. if the same liberal treat¬ 
ment is accorded it as is bestowed upon the Chinese varieties it will amply 
repay for the care. The seed is much longer in germinating than that of 
the ordinary Primula 
Begonias .—Seed may be sown of the tuberous Begonias as well as or 
B. semperflorens. The seed is very fine, and should be sown on the surface 
of the soil, the pot or pan being covered with glass and shaded until 
germination takes place. Gloxinia and Cineraria seed may be sown 
under the same conditions, removing the latter to a temperature of 50 c to 
55° as soon as the seedlings are well up, for nothing is gained by keeping 
them in brisk heat. . , 
Celosias .—Seed can be sown at once where these plants are appreciated 
for summer decoration. Sow in heat, lightly covering with fine soil. 
As soon as the seedlings are large enough they must be pricked out singly 
