2G0 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 23, 1885. 
Company, I think the Union will be of more value in Scotland than 
England. 
Regarding having a sort of insurance fund to make good losses or 
start poor persons in bee-keeping, I think this is entirely out of the sphere 
of the Union and more in the way of the various bee-keepers’ associations. 
These associations are purposely founded to encourage bee-keeping, and 
surely they are trying by all means in their power to induce everyone to 
keep bees. Very many members of these associations, particularly the 
ornamental ones, do not keep bees, while many others are interested in 
the increase of bee-keepers for the purpose of selling them supplies. Now 
when they have persuaded a person to keep bees, and he has got some, he 
is eligible for membership in the Union. We shall then tell him what 
kind of hives he will find most profitable, and the best way to produce 
and market his honey. We shall in this way counteract the influence of 
the supply dealers, &c. 
The Union is to protect the interests of real bond fide bee-keepers, 
while the various associations will be trying to increase tho numbers ; 
the work of both can never be combined into one to be satisfactory, it 
being against the interest of a bee-keeper for another to enter his field, 
collect his honey, and then compete with him in its sale. There is plenty 
of work for the associations for many years to come ; but as soon as 
British apiculture is developed to such an extent that importing foreign 
honey into this country would be like importing coals at Newcastle, the 
various county bee-keepers’ associations will cease to exist, while the 
N.B.B.K.U. will go on in all its vigour. The last paragraph, in my 
opinion, contains a very valuable suggestion, which I shall not fail to 
bring under the notice of the Executive at the proper time.— John 
Hewitt, Shefiield, Hon. Sec. to the Promoters. 
HOW CLOSE IS THE CONNECTION? 
“E. M. B. A.” (page 222) says it is utterly incorrect that tho 
British Honey Company, the British Bee-keepers’ Association, and the 
British Bee Journal are closely connected. He says, further, the Bee 
Journal is the organ of the British Bee-keepers’ Association, but the 
management is quite distinct, but he fails to give the least proof 
in support of his case. If it is as he says that the management of the 
three concerns “ is quite distinct,” how comes it that one man is the 
manager or secretary for all three ? 
If all are really distinct, how comes it also that Mr. Blow, a hive 
maker, member of the British Bee-keepers’ Association, and one of the 
directors of the Honey Company, is in possession of the list of subscribers 
to the Bee Journal for the purpose of sending them bis trade circulars ? 
If he is no exception, will Mr. Huckle give the same privileges to anyone 
else ? If there is no connection, why do they not explain instead of 
trying to throw up “ dust ” to hide the real facts ?—A Hallamshire 
Bee-keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Hogg & Wood, Coldstream and Duns, N.B .—List of Agricultural Seeds. 
1885. 
John Laing & Co., Forest Hill, S.E .—Special List of Chrysanthemums. 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor ’ 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should never 
send more than two or three questions at once. All articles in¬ 
tended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper 
only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we 
do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Strawberries Failing (J. M .).—We cannot exactly tell you the reason 
why the flowers have “ gone blind,” but we know that digging plants from 
the open ground, and at once placing them in a temperature of 50° so early 
in the season, is not good practice. Plants for forcing should be prepared in 
the manner practised by the best gardeners, and which has often been 
described, and a temperature of 45 Q is quite sufficient to start with. Still, 
the flowers of well-prepared plants occasionally fail to set if the weather 
is dull, the atmosphere damp, and the temperature high, as under these 
circumstances the pollen, if not deficient, as it often is, is imperfectly 
distributed. ’ 
Dioscorea Battatas (J. C.). —This, the Chinese Yam, is, we presume, 
the kind to which you refer. We have grown it successfully in a sheltered 
garden in a southern county, and produced an abundant supply of tubers, 
but they were not enjoyed by many palates. The tubers were started in 
pots in a light moderately heated pit, much after the manner of starting 
Dahlias, and the Yams when established and growing freely were planted 
in a trench in which decayed vegetable matter, such as leaf soil, with which 
a little wood ashes were incorporated. Stakes were placed for the plants, 
up which they found their way after the manner of Convolvuluses. Fine 
weather in June was chosen for planting, the tubers being placed in pots 
towards the end of April or early in May. Medium-sized whole tubers 
were chosen for planting, but the larger tubers no doubt might have been 
cut and planted in portions; we, however, did not try them, as we had 
always plenty of whole tubers. We consider tubers such as yours, 6 inches 
long and proportionately thick, quite large enough for planting. 
Plants for Covering Ground under Trees (An Old Subscriber ).—There 
is nothing better than the common or English Ivy (Hed-ra Helix), or Irish 
(Hedera canariensis), both of which grow quickly and soon form an accept¬ 
able green clothing. It is best to break up the ground before planting, 
thoroughly clearing it of weeds, and to insure its covering the ground soon 
put in strong plants at about a yard apart every way, and train the shoots 
every way, pegging them to keep them in position, They will root into the 
soil as they grow, and if watered during dry weather they will grow more 
freely. Periwinkle is also good for the purpose, the plants being put in 
about about a foot apart. The Lesser Periwinkle is best—viz., Vinca 
minor. Both the Ivy and Periwinkle do well in the environs of smoky 
towns ; indeed, they succeed admirably in town gardens, and deserve to 
be more frequently seen in them than they are at present. 
Top-dressing Lawn (Idem ).—Any of the artificial manures will answer, 
but we find nothing better than soot, wood ashes, and lime, applied at the 
rate of half a peck per rod (33£ square yards), taking equal proportions of 
each and thoroughly mixing. It should be applied before in preference 
to after rain, as it is then certain to be washed in, and is best applied 
in spring before mowing commences, we using it from February to April 
as the weather is favourable. In town gardens, however, soot may be 
dispensed with, as plenty of this is deposited, and bonemeal may be sub¬ 
stituted with advantage under such circumstances. 
Improving a Conservatory (M. C. B., Hants ).—If you do not mindi 
expense it would be best to have the lights constructed of pitch pine or 
teak, both of which are very strong and durable, and though more costly at 
first, are cheapest in the end. The most suitable system of glazing for your 
purpose would be to employ putty, or better, white lead for bedding the 
glass, and secure the panes with copper tacks, using no top putty, but re¬ 
moving that which squeezes above the glass in pressing the squares in 
position. This, in more ways than one, is preferable to using top putty, the 
chief being its freedom from cracking and peeling off. The best time to 
renew the roof and front lights would be in August, or from then to the 
middle of September, so as to have it painted and hardened before wet 
weather sets in. It may, however, be done from June to September 
inclusive, the early part of the latter preferably, as least liable to interfere 
with the climbers. 
Tank Heating (Twenty-five-years Subscriber ).—The tank'system of 
heating, as described at page 688 of Johnson’s Cottage Gardeners' 
Dictionary,” is a very desirable mode of affording bottom heat, especially 
for propagating purposes. There is no fear of the water not working all 
right in the tank providing you adhere to the instructions given. We have 
one in a house, a tank formed with brick side walls and bottom cemented, 
and it answers admirably, but have four rows of 4-inch hot-water pipes in 
it, which are kept just covered by the water in the tank. The covering of 
the tank should be just clear of the water and then the plunging material. 
If you follow the plan referred to you will need to have partitions in the 
tank, so as to cause the water to circulate, adhering to the instructions 
given. It is an admirable method of affording bottom heat, and too little 
employed, probably for want of being more known. 
Herbs (A Lady Gardener ).—You may cut the Sage and Thyme down, 
but if cut closely you will have to wait a considerable time before you pro¬ 
duce for use. We should take up some of the plants, divide and plant so 
that the growths are only an inch or two above the ground, then when these 
plants are established those that have not been disturbed may be destroyed 
if not wanted. April is a good time for dividing and planting herbs. 
Red Spider on Vines (Idem ).—It is far better to prevent the establish¬ 
ment of red spider than to permit it to increase and then resort to measures 
for its destruction. By maintaining a moist yet buoyant atmosphere and 
giving the Vines a heavy syringing at weekly or fortnightly intervals as 
may be needed the pest can usually be kept outside the house. Many per¬ 
sons sprinkle their vineries with guano water at the time of closing, as they 
find the ammonia beneficial to the Vines and distasteful to their enemy; 
but they do not use it until the Grapes have stoned, and are particular in 
leaving the top ventilators slightly open all night, admitting more pir very 
early in the morning. If you are driven to use sulphur, however, mix it at 
the rate of a tablespoonful to a gallon of water, stirring constantly during its 
application. We have been growing Grapes for thirty years and never had 
occasion to apply sulphur to the foliage for destroying red spider. 
Culture of the Cape Gooseberry (Craven ).—Physalis edulis can be 
grown in either a stove, an intermediate house, or a greenhouse, but the 
second named is preferable, and in some gardens we have seen it grown 
very successfully against the back wall of a vinery. In a warm house it is. 
evergreen, but in a greenhouse the leaves fall in the winter. The flowers 
are produced during the early summer months, and the fruits are ripe from 
July to September or later. When constantly growing, fruits are obtainable 
nearly all the year round. A compost of turfy loam and leaf soil, with a 
little well-decayed manure, suit the plant admirably. With ordinary care 
the plants will live several years. 
Destroying Weeds (Inquirer ).—Half a pint of sulphuric acid mixed 
in a gallon of water and immediately poured upon the path will destroy all 
small weeds. A waterpot with a fine rose answers best for the work. Care 
must be taken not to let the acid touch the clothes or it will burn holes in 
them, and it will also kill Box edgings. Apply it in fine weather, and you 
will have no more weeds for several months. The acid can be had from 
any chemist or oil and colour dealer. 
