268 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 2, 1385. 
onvincec!, is wrong. I scarcely ever cut back a young tree 
unless the wood is very green I am a firm believer in the 
extension system, and think that the sooner a young tree fills 
the allotted space the better, and the larger the space the better. 
Being firmly convinced that by far the best results are obtained 
from large well-developed trees, in pruning established trees 
I seldom shorten any of the shoots; and I also hold that the 
object of the cultivator should be to reduce the winter pruning 
to a minimum, and to this end as soon as the fruit is gathered 
I cut out such branches as have had fruit and any that might 
not be wanted for the next season, rearranging the shoots, &c. 
This lets in the sun and air, and has a most beneficial effect 
on the tree. Some form of fan-training is best adapted for the 
Peach, and it is desirable to have symmetry as far as possible, 
but in the case of large and old trees it is of far more practical 
importance to have the trees well covered with sturdy shoots 
regularly distributed from the bottom to the top of the tree. 
I think we all err in leaving too much wood in our trees, 5 to 
G inches apai’t is quite near enough for the shoots. 
Transplanting and Root-pruning .—This is beneficial and often 
necessary, as it induces fruitfulness. We generally find that 
young trees grow too strongly, the wood green and little fruit. 
In the case of such trees I transplant and root-prune every year, 
cutting out the strong roots, shortening the very long ones, and 
in a few years, instead of long bare roots, there is a mass of small 
fibry roots and the trees bristling with plump fruit buds. I have 
a rather extensive collection under my care, and there is not one 
Peach tree in the whole lot that has not been root-pruned within 
the last three years, and most of them within two. In the case 
of large trees that may not have been root-pruned for many 
years I have found it advisable to do one-half one year, the 
other the following. Begin with a radius from the stem of 5, 6, 
or 8 feet, in proportion to the size of the tree, cut the breadth of 
a spade right down to the drainage, then with a fork work out 
carefully all the old soil up to the stem of the tree, or as near as 
possible. See that the drainage is all right, then fill up with 
fresh fibry soil. Spread out the roots carefully, keeping them 
well up towards the surface. Give a few potfuls of tepid water, 
and there will be better fruit than before. It is surprising with 
what avidity the roots seize upon and permeate the new soil. 
Opinions differ as to the best time for root-pruning. I have tried 
it before the fall of the leaf, but with no great success. Many 
say this is the proper time. I have found that by far the best 
j'esults have been obtained by lifting and root-pruning some 
time after the fall of the leaf. In this respect, however, the 
Peach is a most accommodating tree. Some eight years ago in 
rearranging two Peach houses I had a few spare trees, which in 
November were laid in by the heels in the open air. Amongst 
them was a rather large tree of Noblesse. On the 20th March 
following I found a Cherry tree was to have only a very few 
fruits. I directed my foreman to take the Cherry tree out and 
try the Noblesse Peach in its place. He looked at me with 
surprise, and said, “ Do you expect fruit from it this season ? ” 
I replied, “We will try it.” The tree was planted, well watered, 
fhe blossoms then just beginning to expand. We shaded and 
syringed the tree for a few days, and that season we were re¬ 
warded with a fair crop of Peaches considerably above an average 
size, and the tree has gone on well ever since. I may also add 
that some of the best Peaches I have ever had have been produced 
by trees that were root-pruned the previous winter. I do not 
say that it is necessary in some soils and localities to lift and 
root-prune so often. I find that the trees in this soil can only 
be kept in good condition by frequent root-prunings and renewal 
©f soil. 
Watering. —Probably this is the most necessary of all operations, 
and I fear often is very imperfectly performed. 1 am convinced 
that more Peach trees are injured from this cause—insufficient 
watering—than all other causes put together when borders are 
well drained In the season of growth they require very large 
quantities ; and, in fact, should not even in winter be allowed to 
become dry. If in winter they do get dry the buds are sure to 
fall when they begin swelling. In all my experience I have only 
met with two or three cases in which they have been injured by 
too much water, and that has been when the borders were old 
and the drainage defective. I have met with scores of cases in 
which they have suffered from a scanty supply. On a hot day, 
when I have noticed symptoms of distress in the shape of 
flagging leaves, I have said to the man in charge, “That tree 
must be dry ? ” The answer often would be, “ I gave it so much 
only the other day.’ A fork is brought, we dig down, and 
nearing the bottom of the border we find it quite dry, and yet 
the quantity given seemed large. The question may be asked, 
How often would you water; and how much? This I cannot 
answer, so much depends on the condition of the roots, border, 
soil, Ac. In some cases when the fruit has been swelling I have 
given water three times a week in large quantities; in other 
cases once a week might be too often. 
Thinning the Blossoms. —I have practised this for many years. 
Early trees do not generally want so much as later ones, but as 
soon as the buds begin swelling and show colour, I rub off all on 
the under side or at the back of the trellis, thin out the doubles 
and trebles, leaving the largest and best placed blossoms to set. 
This, I think, relieves the tree of an unnecessary strain, the 
blossoms left are larger, and, everything else being equal, it 
follows that the perfected fruit will also be larger. Every year s 
experience convinces me that this is labour well spent. With a 
little practice a man can soon rub off a great number. 
Disbudding. —This is commenced early; in fact, when the 
trees are in bloom, taking off a few at a time, and as far as 
possible the weak and strong shoots, leaving the medium-sized. 
If a strong shoot must be retained stop it once or twice, and try 
to equalise the growths as much as possible. 
(To be continued.) 
PEAS IN TRENCHES. 
Peas sown early iu April will form pods and be ready for use in 
July, and as the weather is extra hot and the soil very dry then as a rule, 
those which are sown on the surface, especially of shallow soil, are sure 
to suffer. They may grow and bloom and come into bearing, but the 
produce will be dry and deficient in flavour, and the crop will very soon 
become too old for use. "VVe never knew of really sweet tender green 
Peas being gathered from rows rooting near the surface during the 
summer, and the time the crop is in season is very short. When the 
plants are growing in well-manured trenches, from 6 inches to 1 foot deep, 
the roots are not at all liable to be influenced by drought, while the 
produce from such is tender and full-flavoured. I have begun gathering 
Peas from a row in a trench on the 1st of July, and in four weeks after¬ 
wards the Peas were still being produced green and tender, but I could 
never do anything like this with Peas on the level. Some think it is a 
waste of time and money to make trenches for Peas, but I am not of 
this opinion. Indeed, I think growing summer Peas in trenches is the 
most profitable mode of culture of any that could be followed, and to 
have Peas in the very highest state of perfection from the middle of June 
until the middle of September they should all be grown in trenches. 
It is a mistake to plant the earliest crops in trenches, because if 
February and March were cold wet months much of the seed would be 
likely to perish, as it did here when I was experimenting one spring, but 
in April all danger of this is past. Should the autumns prove wet it is 
rather a disadvantage to have the latest crops in trenches, especially in 
stiff soils or wet districts, but where it has been noticed that the late 
crops suffer from drought in autumn every row may be sown in a trench. 
Those who make fancy Celery trenches, and are at much trouble to have 
them perfectly straight and very level on the sides, need not spend so 
much time on those for Peas. A good and cheap way to make them 
is to take the line and stretch it along where the row is to be, then form 
the trench from 6 inches to 1 foot in depth, with the line as a guide on one 
side and judge by the eye on the other. From 15 inches to 18 inches is a 
good and suitable width for each, and when the soil has been 
roughly removed put a good layer of manure in the bottom. Fork this in 
and then sow the seed. Push the sharp sides of the trench over on 
the seed with a rake, levelling it at the same time, and the work 
has been completed. In windy positions these afford much shelter 
to the plants when they are tender and small, and if watering has 
to be done at any time it is much more easily emptied into the trenches 
and surer of getting to the roots than attempting to drench a smooth 
surface ; but it is very seldom that artificial watering has to be resorted 
to in trenches, and this is a great gain.—J. Muik. 
CRYSTAL .PALACE SHOW. 
March 27th and 28th. 
The Exhibition of spring flowers held at Sydenham on Friday and 
Saturday last, though of moderate extent, included some fine groups of bulbs 
and miscellaneous plants which furnished a rich display of colours. A 
spacious marquee was formed in the north nave of the Palace, and though 
the canvas employed was somewhat too heavy the effect was good, and 
much superior to the ordinary way in which these shows have been held— 
namely, with festooned canvas above only, and not at the sides, as in this 
case. There was, however, one objectionable feature—the stages had a very 
bare appearance without any baize or other material to conceal their sup¬ 
ports, and they were also fully too high to permit the flowers being seen to 
the best advantage. Competition was not keen in any of the classes and 
several were unrepresented, but the groups contributed by the nurserymen 
amply compensated for any deficiency, and these really constituted the chief 
portion of the Show. 
Several classes were devoted to bulbs, and the Hyacinths were particularly 
fine. With thirty-six Messrs. H. Williams & Son, Finchley, won the premier 
award, showing very handsome examples with large compact spikes, some 
of the best that have been exhibited in the metropolis this season. They 
were selected from some thousands, as these exhibitors and the one who 
gained the second place, Mr. H. E. Wright, Turner Eoad, Lee, grow large 
numbers of Hyacinths and other bulbs for market. The most notable of 
the varieties in the first collection were Grandeur 4 Merveille, Yon Schiller, 
King of the Yellows, King of the Blues, Gigantea Ida, L’lnnocence 
