April 2, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
277 
At the same time frequent fumigation is the only method of exter¬ 
minating them in the case of an attack on many large plants. If we 
could destroy all there are on the wing at a fumigation we must still 
repeat it in a few days, as a considerable number are always being 
hatched out. They ought never to be allowed to get well established, 
and the best preventive has only recently been pointed out to me. 
Tobacco powder is the remedy, this being dusted on the affected parts 
(almost always the under side of the leaves) and allowed to remain on. In 
no case has this failed to clear the plants, as it proves destructive to old 
and young alike, and in no case has it done any injury owing to its being 
left on the plants. Young Fuchsias are very easily injured by insecti¬ 
cides, and even excessive fumigation, but we have cleared them of the 
Aleyrodes without the plants dropping a leaf. Let me, then, advise all 
who have only a few Tomato or other plants infested to try the tobacco 
powder, and be thankful that they have such a simple remedy at hand.— 
W.Iggulden. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Broccoli .—The whole of the Broccoli seed should now be sown’ 
Beginners do not often understand that Yeitch’s Self-protecting variety 
which heads in November, should be sown at the same time as Sutton’s 
Late Queen, which heads the following April and May, but such is the 
case. We sow all our Broccoli on a narrow border along the side of one 
of our kitchen garden walks, and they always do well there. The seed is 
sown in rows about 10 inches apart, and remain there until they are 
about 6 inches high, when they are drawn and dribbled into the bearing 
quarters. The seed should be sown thinly and about 1^ inch in depth. 
As healthy young plants are always the best, the soil in which they are 
raised should be rich and good. 
Asparagus. —Now is the best of all times to make new plantations of 
this. We have lost many young plants by transplanting early in March, 
and others put in in May have been s i much checked that they were 
almost killed, but the greatest success attends the planting early in April. 
Where roots are brought in from a nursery have the ground perfectly 
ready for their reception before they come, and on their arrival plant without 
delay, as the root3 are very fleshy and are soon injured by exposure to 
the atmosphere. Heavy stiff soil does not suit Asparagus, but it does 
admirably in medium soil which has been well enriched with good 
manure. Ordinary garden soil often produces fine Asparagus, but 
almost all kinds of soils will grow it better if a quantity of river sand, 
wood ashes, and charred refuse is dug in before planting. Choose a fine 
day for planting. Open the holes wide enough to admit the roots 
freely, make them about 4 inches deep, and as each root is put in 
cover with fine soil. Tread the soil firmly round them, but not over the 
top of the plant. When the young growths are pushing forth do not rub 
them off. Careful planting will advance growth wonderfully. Some 
believe in elaborately cut beds for Asparagus, but we do not, as we find it 
succeed equally well planted on the level row-after-row system, and much 
space is saved in this way. We have about a quarter of an acre of 
Asparagus growing in this way in our garden, and every spring we are 
complimented on its excellence. 
Herbs .—The whole of these should be taken in hand. Throw some 
good manure over Mint beds, fork more in between the rows of Sage, 
Thyme, &c. Where seedling plants are crowded lift and replant at a 
greater distance. Sow Chervil, Thyme, Sage, &c., in the open, and Sweet 
Basil under glas3. They are all easily raised from seed, and a little of 
each should be sown annually where there is much demand for good 
herbs. Good soil and an open situation will favour their perfect develop¬ 
ment. 
Potatoes .—Proceed with the planting of these. Main crop and late 
varieties too may be planted with advantage from now until the middle 
of April. We have tried our main crops planted very closely together in 
the rows, and there is nothing to be gained by this. As a rule we plant 
our Potatoes 3 feet between the rows and 18 inches between the sets, and 
have a row of Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, or some winter crop 
between, excellent crops of all being secured in this way. Do not destroy 
the young shoots which are being emitted from the tubers, and plant 
them about 3 inches below the surface. Early Potatoes should have the 
soil drawn up to or over the shoots for protection, and a few spruce 
branches may be placed against the large ones. As frames are cleared 
of new Potatoes level the soil and sow Vegetable Marrow seeds over the 
surface. Small Cauliflowers may also be dibbled in. 
Kidney Beans .—Throw away old plants a3 soon as the pods have been 
gathered. When they are kept on carelessly they will soon be covered 
with red spider, and may ruin Vines, Peaches, or other plant 0 . Support 
those bending down under a heavy crop with small twigs. Give abundance 
of liquid to all coming into flower or fruit. Sow a large batch to precede 
those which will be first gathered in the open. They need not be put into 
a hothouse, but will do in a close frame. Make a small sowing of a dwarf 
variety in a very sheltered position out of doors. Do not sow more than 
2 inches deep, and cover with light sandy soil. 
Carrots. —Hoe between the early plants now showing on the borders 
Thin out advancing crops in frames. Never allow them to suffer from 
overcrowding. Sow the main crop of James’s Intermediate. Friable 
moderately rich soil free from grubs, and 18 inches deep at least, should be 
chosen for this important crop. Open the drills 15 inches apart and 1£ inch 
deep. Sow thinly and cover with a light dry soil in which a quantity of 
soot has been mixed. 
Beetroot. —It is still too soon to sow the main crop, but a few rows for 
the earliest supply should be put in. It will succeed admirably if placed 
at the end of the Carrot plot, and it may be sown in all respects the same, 
but the soot need not be included in the soil. 
Cauliflower. —Earth up the plants which were put out from frames 
some time ago. Plant out those which have been raised from spring-sown 
seed under glass. Make a general sowing of late varieties with the 
Broccoli. Where worms are likely to disturb the plants by eating the 
roots sprinkle soot round the stems and let the rain wash it down. 
Tomatoes. —Give those plants now maturing their crop abundance 
of liquid manure. Pot those which are being reared for open air culture ; 
G-inch pots are large enough for them to occupy before being planted out. 
Use nothing but loam as a rooting material. To give them much manure 
when young only produces soft unfruitful wood. Do not allow plants in¬ 
tended for the open to be drawn up under glass and in strong heat. Those 
to be fruited in pots and boxes should not be allowed to become root- 
bound until they occupy their largest pots. 
Winter Spinach. —Do not throw away this until that sown in spring is 
ready. If the ground between the old rows is hoed and cleaned the plants 
will give much useful produce for some time to come. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — Earliest Trees in Pots. —Trees of Early Prolific and Early 
Violet that were started in gentle bottom heat will now or soon take their 
last swelling ; and as this is the most critical stage in Fig culture, checks 
of all kinds, especially that consequent on irregular watering, must be 
carefully guarded against. To insure flavour a rather drier and somewhat 
higher temperature is essential, but it should be sought chiefly on fine 
days with increased ventilation, and withholding water must be gradual. 
The soil must be thoroughly soaked with water a few degrees warmer 
than the bed into which the trees have pushed their roots, and then place 
some light mulching on the surface. Brown Turkey and Negro Largo 
are not quite so forward as Early Prolific and Early Violet started at the 
same time, but they are not much behind, and should have good liquid 
manure twice a week, being syringed well twice a day on fine days, and 
once when the weather is dull. Let every part of the foliage be 
thoroughly wetted, being careful to let the second syringing take place in 
time for the leaves to get fairly dry before night. The night temperature 
may be kept at 65° when the weather is mild, 70° to 75° by day artificially, 
and between 75° and 85° when the days are sunny, as the Fig likes plenty 
of heat, with light and full exposure to sun. Keep the stopping and 
thinning of side shoots well in hand, and train terminals forward where 
space remains unfilled, and where it will not cause crowding or shade 
of the fruit. 
Trees Planted Out. —Large trees in inside borders will require generous 
treatment in liberal supplies of water and mulching with good manure. 
Syringe the trees twice a day, damp the paths and walls frequently, and 
keep the mulching constantly moist. Ventilate freely through the early 
part of the day, and close with a brisk moist heat not later than 3 p.m. 
Stop the side shoots at the fifth joint, and lay in young growth where 
there is space, but avoid overcrowding, as the Fig needs plenty of light, 
and this will insure sturdy short-jointed growth, and the fruit will be 
the best in colour and flavour where most exposed to the influence of 
sunshine. 
Irees in Unheated Houses, —In any situation Figs do better under 
glass than against walls, and in cold low situations a house with a south 
aspect is essential to insure a crop of well-ripened fruits. The trees should 
be planted in narrow borders, well drained, with a compost of turfy loam, 
with a sixth in equal proportions of road scrapings and old mortar 
rubbish, the border being 24 to 30 inches deep, and put together firmly 
with any addition of manure. Instead of planting the trees in front and 
training them up the roof, plant at the back and train up the back wall 
and then downwards under the glass, and not more than 14 inches from 
it. The principal art of management is to keep them dry during the 
winter, and dormant as late in spring as possible. The growths should be 
kept thin and neatly tied in through the summer, towards the end allow¬ 
ing more freedom, which will cause the ends of the shoots to draw up to 
the glass and be ripened by the warmth. When the leaves have fallen 
the borders must be covered with dry fern or litter, and protection given to 
the branches in severe weather, as they are liable to suffer in case of 
severe frost. The trees should have single stems, the best varieties being 
Brown Turkey, Negro Largo, and, if a white one be wanted, White 
Marseilles. 
Melons. —There must not be any neglect in stopping, thinning, and 
tying the shoots, as if these matters are not attended to regularly the 
shoots will become overcrowded, and the energies of the plants will he 
wasted instead of concentrated on the development of the fruit and the 
consolidation of the necessary wood and foliage. The plants swelling 
their fruits will need a good supply of water at the roots, which should be 
given of a somewhat higher temperature than that of the bed; and if 
grown in narrow or shallow borderp, and where drainage is ample and the 
bottom heat steady at about 80’, tepid liquid manure may be given in a 
weak state. More especially will this be advisable in the case of plants 
growing in pots or boxes. Ventilate early and in accordance with the 
