288 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
[ April 9, 1885. 
colour or shading. Then some of them possess a delicious scent, 
which always tells in the favour of an otherwise poor flower. It 
is worth while to save seed from the Polyanthus, as good seed is 
somewhat expensive. The way to do is to lift any desirable 
varieties from the beds, and either pot them or replant them in a 
shady position out of doors isolated from the others. Cross- 
fertilise short-styled flowers with those which are long-styled, 
and an abundant supply of seed will follow. Of course, pin¬ 
eyed flowers will he selected just as readily as the more orthodox 
thrums, for we are here not so much intent on securing a little 
refined beauty as a broad mass of flowers which will please 
everybody who has a love for floral life.—B. 
CROPPING. 
C Continued from page 229.) 
Directions applicable to all c^ses cannot well be given, as circum¬ 
stances differ considerab'y, yet it may not be inappropriate to offer some 
remarks on the different crops, by attention to which successional supplies 
can be had from the same ground for a long period without deterioration. 
Whether we adopt separate or simultaneous cropping rotations are 
necessary, and in offering these remarks I am guided solely by the 
experience gained in having to meet the requirements of a large establish¬ 
ment from ground that excluded any but the simultaneous cropping 
system. I ought to premise that where high cultivation is practised it 
does not answer to grow late Potatoes and similar vegetables required in 
large daily quantities, for they need to be treated on the separate crop 
system. 
Let us begin with Potatoes, which is a most general first crop when 
ground is broken up, and they may be taken after almost any crop, except 
Carrots, Beet, Parsnips, Salsafy, and Seorzonera. I have even known 
Potatoes taken after those without any greater disadvantage than attends 
following one crop of Potatoes with another of the same, which was 
practised prior to the general prevalence of the disease in 1845. Indeed, 
I have known two crops of Potatoes taken from the same ground in one 
season, and not only that but for consecutive seasons, one plot of ground 
in particular being planted with Ashtop Potatoes year after year, and 
disposed of in late June or early July in the large manufacturing towns of 
the West Riding of Yorkshire, and on the same ground the “ seed” for next 
year’s crop was obtained when the first crop of the current year was lifted. 
What was not occupied with seed Potatoes was sown with Turnips, with 
the result that the Turnips were affected with “ finger-and-toe ” consider¬ 
ably ; but the Potatoes invariably did well after the Turnips, whilst 
where the second crop of Potatoes was taken the succeeding early one was 
not so good as after the Turnips. Between the rows of early and second 
early Potatoes I invariably grew the whole of the Brussels Sprouts, 
Broccoli, Savoy, and Borecole, also the Michaelmas crop of Cauliflower 
and autumn Cabbages, taking the Cabbages, Cauliflowers, and Savoys 
between the rows of the early Potatoes, which are about 2 feet apart, and 
the Brussels Sprouts, Brcccoli, and Borecole between the rows of the 
second earlies, which are 30 to 36 inches asunder. These are off—the 
Califlowers early enough to sow early Peas, tbe Cabbages and Savoys for 
second earlies, the Brussels Sprouts are followed by the main crops, and 
the Broccoli with the late crops of Peas. Between the rows of Peas, 
Radishes and Summer Spinach are grown, and afterwards Celery, the 
Peas being sown somewhat wider apart to allow of the Celery being taken 
as an intermediate crop, and after the Peas are off the spaces are utilised 
for late Lettuces and Endive. The Celery is off sufficiently early for 
cropping the following year with Onions, and the whole root crop may be 
taken, as the Celery is dependent more on the manure in the trenches for 
support than on the ground ; but it is not a good rotation to follow Celery 
with Carrots, Parsnips, or Parsley, but Peas, Potatoes, and Brassicas are 
suitable. The Onions can be followed by Cabbages for spring use ; when 
they are gone crop with Peas, Dwarf or Runner Beans. These are off 
in time to allow of a good manuring and digging or trenching in autumn, 
and after a winter’s exposure the ground is in first-rate order for Potatoes 
or any root crop. Potatoes may be followed by any crop. 
The next most important crop in gardens is Peas, which may follow 
any crop except except pod-bearers such as Broad Beans, Kidney Beans, 
or Runners, being best after root crops, as Potatoes, Carrots, Parsnips, and 
the whole of the Bra's’icas, including Turnips. Between the rows 
Radishes and Spinach may be sown, which crops are off in time to be 
followed by Celery ; or if the Peas follow root crops (except Turnips) 
Cauliflowers, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts or other winter greens may be 
had between the rows. Peas can be succeeded by the Brassicas or 
Cauliflower, Broccoli, Cabbages/Turnips, &c., but this is not a good rotation 
when the Peas are taken after a previous crop of Brassicas. I may 
mention, however, lhat I had a border over a dozen years cropped with 
Peas, and followed by autumn and early winter Broccoli, which were all 
that could be desired, the ground being manured after each crop. 
Brassicas—by which are meant Cabbages, Cauliflowers, Broccolis, 
Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, Borecoles, and Turnips—should follow, or be 
simultaneously with Potatoes, Peas, Broad and Kidney Beans, Lettuces, 
and Onions, also Carrots, Beet, and Celery. The whole of the Brassicas 
afford a suitable rotation for Peas, Beans of both kinds— i.e., Broad 
and Kidney, root crops, such as Beet, Carrots, Parsnips, Seorzonera, 
Salsafy, Celery, Lettuces, and Endive. 
It is hardly necessary to carry the subject farther, as sufficient has 
been advanced to Bhow lhat the chief thing to aim at in cropping is not to 
follow any crop with another of the same kind, as for instance Celery should 
not follow Carrots, Parsnips, and Parsley; and if an intermediate crop is 
taken it must be of those that have not occupied the same ground in 
the previous year, but Lettuces may be planted between the rows of 
Celery. 
In a similar manner Beet ought not to follow Spinach, Salsafy, 
Seorzonera, Carrots, and Turnips. Leeks, Shallots, and Garlic should 
not follow Onions ; Endive should not be taken after Lettuces, Salsafy, 
Seorzonera, or Chicory, and keeping these matters in view cropping 
becomes very much simplified, and gives little cause for anxiety. The 
chief points to be attended to are to keep the soil well enriched, to provide 
a good and deep tilth, to have no bare ground except that consequent on 
the unsui’ableness of the season, and to keep the ground free from weeds.— 
G. Abbey. 
THOUGHTS ON CURRENT TOPICS. 
So much has been written about Grapes that it has come to be some¬ 
what generally admitted that “ nothing fresh ” could be said about them, 
but Mr. Mclndoe has contrived to say something about the fruit splitting 
that leads the mind off the beaten track, and I am of opinion that his 
observations are worthy of attentive consideration. Though I am not 
prepared to say that excessive root moisture and reckless summer pruning 
have nothing to do with the cracking of Grapes, lam positive that Grapes, 
Plums, Gooseberries, Cherries, and Melons will split, and do split, under 
the influence of moisture acting on the fruit alone. Very heavy night 
dews and drizzling days will cause the fruit of late Plums, such as Coe’s 
Golden Drop, Ickworth Imperatrice, and others, to split seriously, no 
matter how dry the roots may be, and sheltering the fruit from wet with 
effective coverings I have found of unmistakeable advantage ; but still it 
can scarcely be denied that a deluge of rain acting on the roots of Goose¬ 
berry bushes causes the fruit to burst extensively. There is, however, 
a difference between splitting and bursting, and it is that difference that 
invests Mr. Mclndoe’s remarks and experiments with interest. 
Your correspondent tells us “ he is not chemist enough to scientifi¬ 
cally describe the details to which he alludes on page 225 but he 
presumably knows something about the principle of osmosis, or the 
equilibrium of densities, and I rather suspect be knows more about the 
subject than I do ; still, as it is by no means sufficiently comprehended 
by the majority of gardeners, young men especially, it may fittingly be 
thought about in connection with the splitting of fruit. 
Mr. McIndoe observes that when a vinery is heavily charged with 
vapour this soon penetrates the porous skin of the berries and ruptures 
the then inelastic skin. There is very little doubt about moisture passing 
through the skin of fruits in my mind, and the process is scientifically 
termed endosmosis or the transmission of moisture through membranous 
substances inwards, the outward transmission from the fruit to the air 
being termed exosmosis. If the air is kept very dry indeed moisture 
passes from Grapes into it to restore the lost equilibrium and the fruit 
shrivels ; but on the other hand much moisture acting on the fruit from 
without passes to the interior and splitting occurs. But why is there no 
escape of the pulp ? There often is in the case of Gooseberries when 
there is much sap pressure, as after heavy rains reaching the roots of the 
trees ; but when Grapes crack, as they often do when the roots are not 
in wet soil, there is rarely any escape of juice through the ruptured 
cuticle. The circumstance is, I think, explainable in this way. The skin 
of certain Grapes is less elastic or more brittle than the cell walls in the 
interior, and if these are not ruptured there is no outflow of juice, as in 
the case of dividing an Orange into sections while the juice of the fruit is 
retained. 
Since penning the above I have read Mr. Wm. Thomson’s communi¬ 
cation on page 265. It displays cogent reasoning from ascertained facts, 
and the experience detailed is valuable. There is nothing whatever irrecon¬ 
cilable with my remarks when this fact is borne in mind that scalding 
water is not necessary for the transmission of moisture from the atmosphere 
through the cuticle of Grapes or any other fruit; and if the atmosphere 
is in a “ proper ” state the liability to injury will be lessened. I have seen 
a crop of Madresfield Court Grapes positively ruined by the berries 
splitting with all the roots of the Vines inside the house, and the soil 
certainly not wet. In this case the evil was the result mainly of late 
morning ventilation. 
The important subject of heating, arranging, and preserving hot-water 
pipes has been introduced by Mr. Bardney in a valuable article on the 
page above quoted. There can be little doubt of the wisdom of distributing 
hot-water pipes in structures as far as this can be conveniently done, and 
it is a costly mistake to unduly re trict the extent of piping in horticultural 
structures ; but your correspondent has directed the current of my 
thoughts to another matter, which I am constrained to opine is not 
sufficiently thought about by gardeners and others interested in the 
subject in hand—namely, the conservation of heat in boilers and mains 
that are conducted through space that it is not desired to heat. It is 
undeniably important to preserve the pipes in mains as advised by Mr. 
Bardney, but is it not worth while also to prevent the escape of heat 
through them and preserve it for where it is requ : red ? 
When at the Health Exhibition last year I was interested in the 
engine shed, where six or eight huge boilers were at work in supplying 
the requisite force in grinding fuel for the electric light. All these 
