296 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 9, 1885. 
thoroughly well mixed. Thia will form a free open compost. Owing to 
the large amount of water required, good drainage must also be given. In 
repotting Nepenthes, very small pots or baskets should be used in com¬ 
parison with the size of the plants, and great care taken not to injure the 
delicate roots. It is better not to shake the old soil out, unless it has be¬ 
come soured and unwholesome. In that case, the soil should be washed 
away, thus preserving the roots. The best time for this operation is about 
the middle of February. They should be placed near the glass, and not 
shaded too heavily, unless in very bright sunshine. To have abundance of 
pitchers produced they should be kept constantly cut back, as when growing 
too freely they usually fail to produce pitchers ; and this is what might be 
expected, bearing in mind what has been stated regarding their habits. So 
long as the plant is drawing plenty of nourishment from its roots it has 
less need to develope pitchers, but when cramped and root-bound they 
develope freely. Some years ago, on going through our stoves with Mr. 
Stuart Low, who had just come home from Borneo, where he had discovered 
some interesting species of Pitcher Plants, and showing him a very fine 
plant of Nepenthes Rafflesiana, and asking him what they were like at home, 
he said, “You never see them bearing pitchers like those, but simply one 
here and there, and mostly near the ground. But after a fire has taken 
place, and the forest burnt down, the Nepenthes spring up just covered 
with pitchers.” So that in our case the pruning knife gives equal results 
with the forest fire in the home of the Nepenthes. I prefer, on the whole, 
seeing Pitcher Plants grown in baskets, as the pitchers show in them to 
better advantage. A good many hybrids have been raised in this country 
and in America—the best by far, indeed I may almost say the best Pitcher 
Plant in cultivation, is Nepenthes Mastersiana, raised at Chelsea in the 
Messrs. Yeitch’s nursery. It is a hybrid between N. sanguinea and N. dis- 
tillatoria. I have succeeded in raising a large batch of hybiid Nepenthes, 
the result of a cross between N. Rafflesiana and N. Chelsoni. They, at all 
events, are most interesting plants in the seedling stage. The first leaves 
produced, after the cotyledons or seed leaves, are perfect little pitchers, and 
every leaf since produced has developed a pitcher, which they are likely to 
continue forming so long as they are in the young condition. With a few 
exceptions Nepenthes are readily propagated from cuttings, the simplest 
way being to insert the cutting through the bottom of an inverted flower 
pot, without any soil, placing it in a heated case, in fact rooting the cutting 
in moist air, and afterwards potting off in the usual way. 
Sarracenias require much the same soil as Nepenthes, but in repotting 
nearly all the old soil should be shaken out and almost no heat but that of 
the sun given. An ordinary greenhouse is the best place to grow them. 
They should be firmly potted, slightly raised in the centre, and the surface 
covered with live sphagnum. They also require abundance of moisture ; to 
ensure which, the pots should stand on sphagnum, which retains the moisture. 
This is better than placing them in flats of water, as in this way the soil is 
apt to sour, thus causing decay at the roots. All the species are increased 
by division and from seed. The various species of Drosera, including 
Dionma and Drosophyllum, require the same treatment in every respect as 
that stated for Sarracenia, the only exception being that the soil should be 
made a little less rough. With this difference, they may be very well grown 
together and treated alike. Droseras are easily raised in quantity from seed, 
and in some strong-rooting kinds, such as Drosera dichotoma, by root 
cuttings. If the roots are cut up into the smallest pieces and strewn over 
the surface of a seed pan, covered lightly with sandy soil and introduced 
into heat in February, then, keeping them close for a few weeks, each little 
piece of root will grow. Almost any quantity of this elegant species may 
be thus had in a single season. 
Notwithstanding all their dangerous enticements to insect life generally, 
insectivorous plants are as liable as others to be preyed upon by the ordinary 
plant pests. Green fly attack the young leaves of some, causing them to 
become deformed ; on others thrip and scale do much damage if allowed to 
get a hold. These must be kept in check by the usual means for destroying 
such pests.— Robert Lindsay, Curator Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh 
(in Forestry). 
Church Decorations at Easter. —One of the most tasteful examples 
of church decoration that I have seen for some time I observed last Sunday 
near the metropolis. Primroses and Daffodils were most liberally employed 
in the body of the church around the pillars and the windows, while the 
font was adorned with white and cream-coloured Roses. The effect was 
most pleasing.—A. B. 
si 
31 
8 
sfi 
r 
c 
r 
R1 
£ 
I 
I 
• 
IfflS! 
lOMRiili 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
So much has the persistent cold weather checked the swelling fruit 
buds that we may now indulge a feeling of hope that the blossom, when 
it doe3 open, will sustain no harm, and that we shall once more have an 
abundant crop of fruit. Cold dry wind blowing steadily from the north 
and north-east during March and April may retard the blossom so much 
as to save the crop, but it is a severe trial for newly planted trees, through 
which they will pass unscathed if the planting was thorough in every 
detail. If not, the risk of failure is about proportionate to the degree of 
ne f?hgence in the work. Planted in fertile soil with the roots spread 
carefully out to full length, the soil pressed firmly upon them, a mulching 
of litter, or, better still, half-decayed stable manure, put upon the soil, 
fastened securely in position so that it cannot be loosened in the soil by 
wind, and its shoots shortened at the time of planting, no harm can 
happen to a healthy tree from drought or cold wind ; and when it does 
start into growth, that growth will be strong, free, and worthy of our best 
care, for every shoot will form the basis of a branch or spur. Wasteful 
fruit-growers are they who still persist in leaving a newly planted tree 
unpruned until, as they say, it has had a year to become established in the 
soil—wasteful both of time and of the health and vigour of the tree ; nor 
does a tree left unpruned the first season make a root growth at all equal 
to that of the pruned tree. The natural action of a tree is balanced to a 
degree of nicety which art cannot approach. By pruning a newly planted 
tree we confine its growth in the first season to a few sturdy vigorous 
shoots clothed with large stout foliage, and we know that the root-action 
is equally vigorous and active—infinitely superior to that of the unpruned 
tree, which may make a little growth or none at all. When we plant a 
fruit tree in its permanent position we must have no wasteful growth; 
every shoot, leading or lateral, left upon the tree must be left with a 
mitive clear and unmistakeable, and a master of fruit culture would be 
able to give a satisfactory reason for the removal or retention of every 
one of them. 
Till growth is once more in full activity there is very little to be done 
in the fruit garden, excepting the doing what is possible to screen 
blossom from late frost and cold cutting wind. Keep all screens and 
coverings away from the trees till blossom is fully expanded, and then if 
there is risk of damage from ungenial weather by all means do what is 
possible in the way of temporary shelter. Take especial care that wind 
ani frost screens are made fast, so that no loose mat can batter the 
blossom which it is intended to protect. 
Raspberry Culture .—Upon making inquiry about the cause of several 
failures which have recently come under our notice, we have more than once 
been told that the soil was unsuitable for Raspberry culture—just that and 
nothing more. Shall we confess that such answers give rise to something 
akin to a feeling of chagrin ? We might well do so, for repeatedly has it 
been explained in the Journal in plain and unmistakeable]words, how easily 
Raspberries may be managed successfully in the poorest soils. So far as 
the gardeners of this country are concerned, it is not a question of climate 
but of soil. Thorough drainage, equally thorough mechanical division of 
the soil—and we require nothing better for this purpose than coal ashes— 
and a compost of equal parts of the garden soil and old decayed manure, 
at least IS inches deep, weekly dreuchings of sewage or other liquid 
manure throughout the season of growth, annual heavy surface dressings 
of old farmyard, stable, or pig manure in autumn, and there need be no 
more failures in Raspberry culture. For the encouragement of those who 
may be disheartened by failure, we tell them again that it was owing to 
a failure in our own practice many years ago that we resolved to succeed, 
and a little consideration soon showed us that to keep Raspberries in a 
condition of semi-starvation was to court failure. Even now it is not too 
late to plant a new bed and by high feeding to obtain half a crop of fruit 
from it this year. Shorten the canes to 18 inches, plant them a foot apart 
in rows 5 feet apart, let the use of sewage be regular and thorough, and 
there will be some good fruit yet, and, what is more important, plenty of 
stout canes for a full crop next year. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Early Houses .—Examine the Grapes closely, and if any of 
the berries are likely to be crowded remove some of the least promising, so 
that the others may attain their full s ! ze, but do not remove so many 
that the bunches will be loose. Examine the inside borders, and 
give a thorough supply of water if necessary, so as to keep the soil in a 
moist healthy state until after the Grapes are cut. The best time to give 
the final watering before ripening is on a bright morning, as all superfluous 
moisture will have been dissipated before the house is closed for the day, 
and to prevent the escape of moisture from the soil as well as to encourage 
and keep the roots near the surface spread a little fresh mulching or short 
stable manure over the border. The ammonia arising from the manure, 
in combination with the stimulating influence of the liquid applied to the 
roots, will keep red spider in check, but if it appear coat the pipes with a 
thin wash of sulphur and skim milk. If there are Frontignan or Muscats 
in the house it is not safe to use the sulphur, as their delicate skins are 
liable to be injured, and in that case it will be advisable to sponge the 
leaves affected with the spider carefully with an insecticide at a safe 
strength, which, although a tedious operation, is safe and efficacious. 
Admit air night and day when the berries begin colouring, and increase 
it as they approach ripeness, when the temperature may be reduced ; but 
artificial heat must not be dispensed with, as the Grapes though con¬ 
sidered ripe enough to cut will improve in quality, the last cut from the 
early house being very often the best. Enough fire heat will be needed to 
prevent the temperature falling below C0°. 
Succession Rouses .—Give timely attention to stopping, tying, and 
regulating the growths, also to thinning, which under no circumstances 
must be allowed to get into arrears, as every increase of berry prior to 
thinning only means so much size taken from those retained to finish. 
Allow a free extension of laterals where there is room, otherwise keep 
them closely pinched to prevent crowding. Maintain a good moist heat 
in houses with Vines swelling off their crops, ventilating early, and close 
early in the afternoon, well damping available surfaces at the same time, 
and sprinkle the floors with liquid manure before night. A night tempe¬ 
rature of 60° to 65° will be suitable, 70° to 75° by day, and 10° more from 
sun heat with a free circulation of air. Afford liquid manure to inside 
» borders copiously when moisture is needed, and always in a tepid state. 
Houses containing Muscats and other shy-setting varieties in bloom 
will require a high temperature by day, with a good circulation of air and 
a fair amount of atmospheric moisture, the latter being essential to pre¬ 
vent the foliage, as yet young and tender, suffering under bright sunshine. 
