April 16, 1885, 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
811 
the branches, and is dwarf in habit; E. buecinaoformis being rather 
closer in habit, equally free, and with bright rosy red tubular flowers. 
Both are well worthy of a place in the garden.—G. T. 
THE CULTIVATION OF THE VINE. 
[A.n essay read before the Liverpool Horticultural Society by Mr. Smith, Waterdale 
Gardens, St. Helens.] 
Treatises on the cultivation of the Vine are so numerous that a paper 
on the subject might be considered uninteresting, but the position the 
Grape occupies amongst fruits is so commanding that information per¬ 
taining to it is ever welcome, especially to young gardeners, and I will 
therefore describe the method of culture I have practised with success 
over a quarter of a century. 
In the choice of a site for vineries extremes should be avoided. A low 
damp position where the water cannot be drained off properly is ruinous 
to Vine roots, while an elevated site, where the subsoil is sand or gravel, 
and the Vines suffer from drought, is more favourable to the production 
of red spider than fine Grapes. A suitable site is one open to the south, 
and well sheltered from north and east winds. The form of a vinery is a 
matter of taste, as any will answer provided it is light and well ventilated. 
For early forcing a lean-to is preferable, as it presents the whole of the 
surface of the glass to the south and gains all the heat of the sun, which is 
a great advantage in maintaining a genial temperature. The wires 
should be stretched the length of the vinery 10 inches apart and 18 inches 
from the glass, as vigorous shoots are apt to get chilled by coming in con¬ 
tact with it before they can be safely tied down. The heating power 
must be liberal, so that a suitable temperature can be maintained without 
overheating the pipes. The means of ventilation must be ample at the 
top and in front. Where Vines are forced to have ripe Grapes in the 
beginning of April every means must be used to keep the foliage green 
and healthy as long as possible, and to prevent a second growth during 
August and September. 
In making Vine borders the first consideration is the drainage, for 
however great the care may be good results cannot he obtained if the 
roots made in summer are destroyed in winter owing to bad drainage. 
It is not often that Vines derive any benefit from the subsoil, and it is 
cheapest in the end to make a good concrete bottom, allowing a decline of 
2 inches or so in a yard from the back to the front of the border. Allow 
this to become quite dry before the drainage is placed on, and lay rows of 
2-inch drain tiles across the border 6 or 7 feet apart. The ordinary 
material must be carefully placed between the tiles, finishing at the top 
with a finer material. A main drain must run parallel with the border a 
few inches below the concrete. 
The soil should be of a durable character, not too open or too retentive. 
Always avoid rank manure, as it produces soft long-jointed wood, and is 
liable to generate fungus in the border and shanking in the fruit. A 
strong fibrous loam cut about 3 inches deep from an old pasture, preferably 
of a calcareous nature, is the best. First cut off any long grass, then 
raise the turf and chop it up at once, if in dry workable condition. When 
put together green a gentle heat is produced, which is beneficial to root- 
growth, giving strength and vigour to newly planted Vines. In many 
places fibrous loam is difficult to procure, but fair Grapes may be grown 
in any ordinary good soil, free from fungus, mixed wi h broken refuse— 
bricks, a few half-inch bones, and with a surface dressing of good manure. 
It is a mistake to make the whole width of border first, as a great 
part of it must be unoccupied with roots for a considerable time while the 
fibre is decomposing to no purpose. In making it by instalments every 
addition throws fresh vigour into the Vines, and if strength is not pro¬ 
duced while the Vines are young it cannot be gained afterwards. Waste 
bricks broken fine may be mixed in freely according to the re¬ 
tentive character of the soil, as these not only act as drainage, but the 
roots like them. Some rubbish is employed to a great extent in many 
borders, the water passing through so quickly that the roots are dry half 
their time, when the foliage is soon invested with insects. It is not the 
producti n of roots that makes the Vines strong ; it is keeping them 
healthy afterwards. Manures should always be applied on the surface, the 
rains conveying the essential parts to the roots by degrees as required. 
The exhausted material must all be carefully removed before putting on 
a fresh covering, as it is liable to generate fungua, which soon takes 
possession of the border. It is an advantage to have the border both inside 
and outside, the front wall being arched, as when the border requires 
renewing either the inside or the outside can be renewed without affect¬ 
ing the crop, provided it is done at the right time—that is, as soon as the 
wood is thoroughly ripe and the fruit all cut. Assisted by green foliage 
and a close moist atmosphere, the roots are soon in active growth, plump¬ 
ing the buds and making all right for the future crop. 
The site being formed and the drainage complete fresh cut sods, the 
grass side down, should be laid as far as it is intended to make the 
border—namely, 5 feet outside and 5 feet inside, with the archway 
making 11 feet. Beat it down firmly with the back of a four-pronged 
fork to the depth of 3 feet, declining to the front. If the turf is fibrous it 
cannot be made too solid, as the character of the border is more uniform 
and less water is required. Too much water soon exhausts the soil, and 
allowing it to become dust dry has the same effect. An addition of 
3 feet should be made every year until the border is completed. 
The time for planting Vines varies according to circumstances. For 
well grown and thoroughly ripened one-year-old Vines kept in a cold house 
the middle of March is a good time. In planting keep the base of 
the stem well up to allow room for top-dressing. Each root should be 
stretched out full length on the surface of the border, covering with finely 
chopped turf and a few half-inch bones to the depth of 3 or 4 inches. 
Place a stake from the soil to the wire to train the young growth straight; 
give sufficient tepid water to settle the soil about the roots, and cover with 
a few inches depth of half-decayed manure to prevent evaporation. 
Planting being completed, the chief object is to secure well-ripened 
wood, as the future productions depend on this. Keep the vinery close 
and moist, having as little fire heat as possible, according to the weather 
outside, until the growth begins. Raise the temperature with sufficient 
ventilation in front to keep the air in motion, as it is a mistake to allow 
the heat to pass out at the top ventilators to be kept up by the hot-water 
pipes. When the sun has full power ventilate early and close early, and 
by the time the temperature is 80° have the pipes warm enough to keep 
it at that degree till sunset, when it may be gradually lowered for the 
night. Continue the same treatment until the growth is completed, when 
the atmosphere may be drier and ventilation more liberal. Allow the 
laterals to grow freely ; if any take a lead pinch out the points, keep the 
shoots equally balanced, and tie the leader to the wires as it advances. 
Allow every inch of ihe roof to be covered with good foliage, but prevent 
crowding. As soon as the leaves have fallen shorten the canes to the base 
of the rafters. When the wounds are dried rub a little painter’s knotting 
over them, as young Vines are liable to bleed ; cover the outside borders 
with litter and wooden shutters to protect the roots from frost and snow, 
and see that the inside border does not become dust dry. 
The time for starting Vines into growth must be determined by the 
time it is intended to have the fruit ripe. If for late Grapes allow them to 
break without fire heat, which they generally do about the end of April. 
If intended for early fruiting close the vinery the first week in February, 
bringing them on quietly until all the buds are started with a little fire 
heat. When fairly growing treat them like the previous season. When 
the leading shoot is half up the rafter pinch out the centre, also the lateral 
from the top bud, allowing the others to grow until the leading bud 
breaks again, when the laterals maybe pinched to three or four leaves ; 
this plumps the buds at the lower end of the Vine, which are to bear 
fruit next season. Allow the new leader to grow to the end of the rafter, 
then 8top it, which causes the rod to thicken and the buds to swell. 
Allow the laterals to grow freely, as it encourages root-action, at the same 
time give a liberal supply of water to the borders, for young Vines can 
scarcely have too much if the drainage is perfect. As the wood com¬ 
mences ripening ventilate more freely and provide less moisture, reducing 
the laterals to one leaf on the fruiting part, which plumps the buds. 
We have now arrived at the third, or fruiting season. Considerable 
latitude must be allowed regarding temperature, as the cultivator must be 
guided by circumstances and conditions of the weather. Start the Vines 
gently as before until the bunches begin showing, when the temperature may 
gradually be raised to 70° or 80° in the day with sun heat, and 60° to 65° 
in the night, in accordance with the character of the weather outside 
Ventilate a little at the front when favourable, as it keeps the air in motion 
and promotes healthy growth. Always avoid high night temperature or 
exciting influences in the absence of light. I have repeatedly had 
Muscats when in full bloom in a temperature as low as 55° in the night, 
yet they set as freely as Black Hamburghs. This is lower than I should 
recommend, but at the same time I consider rest in the night favourable 
to the fertilisation of the fruit, which swells more freely, and finishes 
more satisfactorily. As the Vines come into bloom damping in the morn¬ 
ing may be dispensed with until about ten o’clock, then give each Vine a 
