352 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April SO, 1885. 
opened too near them. It is not wise to keep them too long subject 
to the confinement of rooms, but a week or ten days will do them no 
harm. 
The flowers last well in a cut state, and it would be impossible to 
imagine anything more lovely in a small glass or vase than a spike of 
Cattleya flowers with a little Adiantum cuneatum arranged just below 
them. It is a mistake to arrange or even crowd these lovely flowers 
amongst a variety of other blooms. The species referred to above are 
very useful, as they flower with great freedom in succession for several 
months—in fact, from winter until midsummer. 
An idea appears to be prevalent that Cattleyas are rather difficult to 
manage successfully, and such undoubtedly is the case with a few species ; 
but with ordinary care and attention the majority are as easily managed 
as any Orchids. In commencing the culture of these plants some have 
found it an advantage to buy imported plants, as there is a chance of 
obtaining some good forms. 
The best time during the year to obtain imported plants is the winter 
and early spring months during the season of inactivity. I have, however, 
received plants at different times, and with care they have started freely 
into growth. I do not care, however, to receive them during late summer 
or early autumn, for the growth they make has very little chance of 
becoming thoroughly ripe or even completed before winter, in which state 
they are very liable to go off if the greatest care is not exercised. The 
starting and growth the first season very much depends upon the condition 
of the plants when they arrive. If very much shrivelled and the foliage 
gone the first growth will be weak, and the plants in consequence are a 
long time before they are sufficiently strong to flower. When the plants 
are plump and fresh, with a quantity of good foliage upon them, they 
start freely into growth, and often produce pseudo-bulbs the first season 
strong enough for flowering. I shall, however, treat upon plants that 
arrive in an intermediate state as regards freshness. 
When they come to hand all bruised and decayed portions should be 
removed, and the dust and dirt, which is generally plentiful upon the 
plants, should be washed off with a sponge and a little tepid water. After 
this the plants may be suspended for two or three weeks, head down¬ 
wards, in any structure where the night temperature ranges from 50° to 
55°, where they can be shaded from the sun, and not subjected to too 
moist an atmosphere. Too much heat and too much moisture must not be 
given them in their early stages, but if obtained during the season advised 
they may after the time indicated be given a night temperature of 60°, 
and be lightly syringed once daily until they show signs of moving, when 
they may be taken down and placed in pots, baskets, or upon blocks of 
wood. The pots should be nearly filled with drainage, and a short stout 
stake made secure in the centre of each pot, to which the plants can be 
fastened. Generally there are a few old roots, and these are useful for 
assisting to hold them securely in their proper position. The plants should 
be slightly elevated and filled in with crocks until they commence to 
grow and form roots. It is not wise to use any potting material until 
they reach this stage, when a good number of the crocks on the surface 
can be picked out and peat fibre supplied. The only attention needed 
until they reach this stage is a moist atmosphere and shade from the sun ; 
syringe once or twice daily according to the weather, After the plants 
commence growth the syringe must be used very lightly, and then only 
during the early part of the day, so that any water that lodges in the 
young growth will have ample time to evaporate before night. Keep the 
material upon which they stand moist by frequently syringing amongst 
the pots, and no harm will be done if tepid water is occasionally poured 
into the pots. These should be as small - as possible consistent with the 
size of the plants. Baskets should be a little larger in proportion. The 
plants should be slightly elevated and filled up with crocks the same as 
those started in pots, and subject them to the same treatment. 
If blocks are used they must be of moderate size in proportion to the 
plants. I am no advocate for small thin portions of deal for this purpose, 
but select some kind that is durable and will last for some years. The 
blocks ought to be of moderate thickness, so that when once thoroughly 
moistened they will retain it for some length of time. Secure the plants 
on the surface by means of a few copper nails and fine copper wire, so 
that the blocks can be hung horizontally. No peat fibre or even sphagnum 
moss will be needed on the blocks if those used are of moderate size. 
These will require greater attention in watering than those either in pots 
or baskets, and the blocks will need dipping occasionally, even before 
roots are formed, so as to retain moisture about the plants. Although 
extra attention is needed in dipping both plants in baskets and those 
grown upon blocks they do wonderfully well and flower abundantly, 
which is due in a very large measure undoubtedly to the abundance of 
light they receive when suspended almost close to the glass. 
When imported plants commence growing and rooting the treatment 
and conditions that suit established plants will suit them. Heat and 
moisture should be given freely during the season of activity. Pseudo¬ 
bulbs that are made in a close moist atmosphere are generally soft, the 
flowers being small and poorly coloured in comparison with those pro¬ 
duced from firm sturdy pseudo-bulbs. Rapid growth is not so much 
desired. The object should be to supply the plants with conditions that 
will insure solidity. After the pseudo-bulbs are once formed as much air 
as possible should be admitted, preventing at all times cold draughts 
striking upon the plants. 
Permanent shading must never be used, as, though protection from 
direct sunshine is needed during the season of growth, the material 
employed must be light, so that every ray of light possible can reach the 
plants. As the growths approach full development gradually admit 
more light until they will bear with safety a fair per-centage of sunshine 
towards autumn. The plants can be sufficiently ripened to flower well, 
and the foliage retained of a flue healthy dark green colour. 
Cattleyas require less water perhaps than many Orchids, taking the 
whole year round. More plants are brought into an unhealthy condition 
through too much water than probably from any other cau-:e. During 
the season of growth—that is, from the time the roots commence activity 
until the growth is completed, the material in which they are growing 
should never be allowed to become really dry. As long as the rooting 
material contains a little moisture the plants are safe, and they had much 
better be in this condition than constantly wet. A good soaking should 
be given when water is required, and then the plants allowed to remain 
until nearly the whole of the moisture has been evaporated, when another 
may be given. Do not water the plants over the foliage, and no more 
must be poured upon their creeping stems than is possible. During the 
winter very little water is needed ; in fact, only sufficient to prevent the 
foliage and pseudo-bulbs shrivelling. Very little syringing is needed, not 
even during the season of growth, and what is given to the plants should 
be in the form of spray early in the day during fine weather only until the 
growths are formed. The water is very apt to lodge in the young 
growths, and if care is not taken they are liable to damp ; but this will 
not be the case when syringing is done early and air admitted, so that the 
whole of the water will evaporate before the house is again closed. When 
the growths are formed syringe lightly twice daily until they are 
matured. Do not syringe during the resting season, which requires to be 
much longer than is really necessary for many Orchids, the atmosphere 
of the house during this period being always kept moderately dry. One 
of the secrets of success in the culture of these plants is a lengthened 
period of rest. 
There is some difference of opinion about the most suitable time for 
potting Cattleyas, but I have found that they do equally well whether 
potted as they start into growth or before. The latter I consider prefer¬ 
able, then there is no fear of injuring the roots, which are easily broken. 
Imported plants potted as described will need repotting after the first or 
second season. In many instances if placed in small pots, with a limited 
amount of material, they are ready for shifting after the first season. 
The pots or pans must be sufficiently large to accommodate the plants for 
at least two years. Make no attempt to turn Cattleyas out of their pots, 
or a good per-cent3ge of the roots will be destroyed, for they cling closely 
to the sides of the pots. Break the pots, and the portions to which the 
roots cling being carefully preserved and placed in the fresh pots. Remove 
the old compost carefully from amongst the roots. When the roots cling 
to portions of the old pot it is often impossible to fill with drainage 
to the desired height. The crocks can, however, be carefully arranged 
amongst these roots until the pot is more than half full of them. Over 
these place a thin layer of sphagnum moss, and carefully fill the remaining 
space amongst the roots with peat fibre. All the soil particles should be 
knocked out from amongst the fibre, and when this i3 done the material 
will last three years in good condition. A few lumps of charcoal may 
with advantage be used amongst the fibre, but do not place any moss 
with it, as it decomposes quickly, and then only assists in the destruction 
of the fibre. Elevate the plants well above the rim of the pots, and then 
press the fibre as firmly as possible. On and near the surface patches of 
living sphagnum moss may with advantage be used, as it can be removed 
annually just as the plants are starting into growth and fresh supplied. 
It is needless perhaps to say that the stems from which the roots are 
emitted must not be buried below the surface. 
When plants growing in baskets require larger one3 remove the old 
material carefully, aod as much of the old basket as possible to which no 
roots are clinging. The remainder should be placed inside the new and 
larger basket, and the space between the two filled with crocks and 
charcoal in lumps within 1 or 2 inches of the top, according to the size of 
the basket. Fill the remaining space with the compost advised for those in 
pots, with a little moss on the surface, leaving the plant well elevated 
when finished. 
Cattleyas are subject to insect pests like the majority of plants, 
but those that prove the most troublesome are white scale and yellow 
thrips. These must not be allowed to become established upon the plants, 
or they will soon seriously injure them. The former is best destroyed by 
sponging the plants with tepid water in which a little softsoap has been 
stirred. The latter can be killed by fumigating with tobacco 6moke, 
sponging the plants with tobacco water, and dusting them with tobacco 
powder where it is impossible to get the sponge. 
The temperatures most suitable for these plants from October until 
) the end of March is 60° by night, with a rise by day of 5° or 10°. As the 
I days lengthen and growth commences gradually raise the temperature by 
night to 65°, and by day from 70° to 85°. During cold or severe weather 
the heat by night may be allowed to fall 5° lower, or be 5° higher on very 
mild occasions without proving injurious to the plants. If this system of 
regulating the temperature is followed the plants will thrive better than 
if a hard-and-fast rule is strictly adhered to.— Wii. Bardney. 
MESSRS. POPE & SONS’ NURSERIES, KING’S NORTON, 
NEAR BIRMINGHAM. 
I live in the Black Country and I am an old florist as well as horticul¬ 
turist, and with the long spell of wet, cold, and dreary weather we have had 
in these parts I felt a desire to see brighter surroundings and some flowers. 
I knew that by running to King’s Norton I should get both, and an addi¬ 
tional treat in seeing my good old friend, Mr. Henry Pope. Few, however, 
call him Henry. Everybody this way who has any pretensions to be 
regarded as a florist know Harry Pope, and a more genial old florist is not 
to be found iu the district. Within a few years of “ threescore and ten," Mr. 
