360 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 30, 1885. 
bare; and it was found that great quantities of what were called ‘black 
worms ’ or leather-skins [i.e, daddy longleg grubs, Ed.] were destroying 
the plant upon the part manured with the old manure. 
“ ‘ The worst parts were harrowed, and rolled with heavy rollers re¬ 
peatedly, getting a good tilth. It was drilled again with Barley, which 
fared nearly the same as before ; the grubs ate the young shoot, and then 
the grain itself. I found great quantities of the larvae of the daddy long- 
legs, some fully grown, others half half that size, under the furrow, where 
they were quite secure from the effects of the heaviest roller.’ 
“ From these Mr. Lowe selected a number for the following experiments, 
with a view of ascertaining whether the various applications were of 
service beyond stimulating the crop to a more rapid growth. A few of the 
grubs were covered respectively with quicklime, soot, household salt, and 
superphosphate. These were secured, as they crawled away from the appli¬ 
cations, for further investigation. Others were placed in earth mixed with 
one-fourth of white arsenic ; and in twelve hours only those which had been 
in the arsenic appeared at all the worse, and even these recovered before 
the following day. [Some of the grubs that had been covered respectively 
with salt, quicklime, and soot were placed in bottles with partially rotted 
leaves and sprouted grain, and were developed in due course to flies.] 
Brine was tried at a strength of 1 lb. of salt to a quart of water, and the 
grubs dropped into it died in a short rime ; those on which the brine was 
merely poured were none the worse. Nitrate of soda, however, gave 
different results. The grubs that were placed in it were apparently dead in 
three hours. 
“ ‘ Mixing nitrate of soda with a considerable quantity of earth had the 
same effect ; the grubs were to all appearance killed pretty quickly, both 
large and small ones.’ Likewise, ‘ A weak solution of nitrate of soda 
poured upon soil containing a large quantity of the grubs, likewise to all 
appearance killed the whole of them.’ 
“ Mr. Lowe observes :—‘ So far I think that where the larva of the daddy 
longlegs are suspected, it would certainly give good results (for roots) to 
mix nitrate of soda with farmyard manure, turning twice.’ Later in the 
year Mr. Lowe went over his experiments again, and verified the point that 
salt, lime, soot, and superphosphate did not inconvenience them; but with 
regard to those treated with nitrate of soda, though they appeared to be 
dead, yet placed in damp soil they recovered, and in a few days were as 
vigorous as the others. From this second experiment it is open to doubt 
whether the grubs which appeared dead after treatment were so or not; 
but, looking at Mr. Lowe’s note that those which recovered did so ‘ after 
being placed in damp soil,’ I certainly think that his experiment greatly 
confirms the value of nitrate of soda as a direct deterrent to the grub, as 
well as stimulant to the crop. It is shown that the presence of this 
application, whether mixed with the soil or in solution as a watering, has 
a direct ill-effect on the grub (which I can confirm from having seen it 
void it3 contents when dropped into the nitrate); and here, I think, we 
may rest on three useful points. The nitrate is beneficial to the plant; it 
is also hurtful to the grub; and, even if it only makes the soil affected 
distasteful, we get benefit by driving the creatures partially away. 
“Further, Mr. Lowe, to try the effect in ordinary circumstances, filled 
pots with earth, and, having placed grubs at a depth of within 1 inch of 
the surface, these pots were respectively covered with an amount of 
salt representing 1 ton per acre, lime 3 tons per acre, and nitrate of soda 
2 cwt. per acre. These were watered with rain water until the soil was 
well saturated, and 1 the effect in salt and lime was not perceptible. The 
grubs treated with the nitrate of soda were very relaxed, soft, and helpless 
—‘ will probably die ; ’ and eight days after Mr. Lowe wrote that they still 
continued limp and helpless. With regard to amount of weight that could 
be borne by these grubs, Mr. Lowe placed some of them in a box of 
moderately damp soil, about 1 inch from the surface, and applied a pressure 
of 2J cwt. for five minutes. The soil was pressed very close, and the 
grubs, on being exposed to the air, soon recovered. Repeating the experi¬ 
ment for the same length of time—that is, five minutes—with the lesser 
weight of 2 cwt., but leaving the grubs in the compressed soil, it was found 
that forty-eight hours afterwards none of them had moved, and Mr. Lowe 
considered they would not have moved, but died where they had been 
pressed down. The above experiments appear to me of much value in 
confirming or showing the method of action of two of the accepted methods 
of lessening the ravage of daddy longlegs grubs.” 
Attention is also given to the Gooseberry and Currant sawfly, Hop 
aphis, Mangold and Beet fly, Onion fly, wireworms, Turnip fly, the 
Willow beetle, and many others, most of which are accompanied by 
illustrations of the insects in several stages. 
II] 
W/ WORK fo^the WEEK.. if 
El 
JT 
ji 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Thinning Young Vegetables .—Do not neglect this, as nothing tends 
so much to destroy the prospects of a good crop as allowing the plants to 
become too crowded in the rows or beds while young. Turnips, Parsnips, 
&c,, should be thinned before the plants are many inches high, first thin¬ 
ning to 3 inches apart, again to 6 inches, and finally to 10 inches or 
1 foot for Turnips, and more than this may he given the Parsnips. 
Radishes very seldom “ bulb ” well, when the plants are growing so closely 
together that they crowd each other from the time they come through the 
soil. A much better crop is secured when they are all thinned to 2 inches 
apart. In the case of Lettuces, Cabbages, and Greens generally it is a 
good plan to thin out the thickest parts before the plants become any 
siz a , and if the thinnings are too small to be dibbled in elsewhere throw 
them away. It is much better to do this than have the whole crop 
spoiled. 
Tomatoes. —Early plants are now fruiting very freely. Cut the fruit 
off as soon as it is coloured. If it is not required on the day it is cut it 
will keep very well for a long time, and by taking it off the later fruits 
will have a better chance of swelling. Supply fruiting plants with 
abundance of liquid manure, and on no account allow the growths to 
become crowded. Place plants intended for open-air culture in cool 
quarters. Where there is a deficiency of plants take cuttings from the 
early plants and root them. These will become large and fruitful long 
before seedlings. 
Celery Trenches. —They should be prepared. Select an open sunny 
piece of ground for them where the soil is not too stiff ; but it may be 
very poor, as the richness should only be in the bottom of the trenches, 
and we prefer the sides and the soil we use for earthing up to remain 
poor. It answers the purpose well enough for blanching, and is gene¬ 
rally free from worms. Make the trenches from 2 feet to 4 feet wide, to 
hold from two to four rows. From 6 to 10 inches is a good depth for 
them. Put the soil up in neat ridges between the trenches, and plant up 
the tops at once with Lettuce or sow with Spinach. 
Planting Celery. —The earliest-raised plants may now be put into the 
trenches. Dig a large quantity of manure into the bottom first, then lift 
the plants with as large balls of soil attached to the roots as can possibly 
be secured, and plant them in this condition. Set them well into the 
soil, and water thoroughly immediately planting is finished. Late plants 
now in their seed quarters should be placed 2 or 3 inches apart in frames 
or boxes of rich soil. Hotbeds are not required to raise or push 
them on now. A cool frame or the protection of a handlight will suit 
them admirably. Never allow them to become dry at the roots, and 
ventilate freely. As our early frame Potatoes are dug we level down the 
soil and plant again with Celery, and the young plants always turn well 
out of such places. 
Lettuces.—' Transplant a large batch of these from the seed rows. 
Give them a cool rich soil, as they will be heading at a time the hot 
weather is very trying for them. Sow a pinch of seed about once a 
fortnight durirg the summer. Small batches are the most satisfactory 
from June until September. 
Beet. —The main crop of this should be sown. Dell’s Crimson is 
a fine variety, being of good colour and not too large, which are the two 
main points in a good Beet. Sow in rows 15 inches apart, and in soil 
where the roots can run freely down without meeting with anything to 
cause them to fork. Rough manure is the worst for this. 
Rhubarb, —This is now plentiful, but if the stems are drawn away 
too freely the roots will be checked, and they will fail to produce good 
sticks for some time. Weak plants will he much benefited by liquid 
manure. All flower stems should be cut off as soon as they appear. Do 
not gather from young seedling plants until they have produced a good 
quantity of large leaves and strong stems. 
Horseradish. —Where new plantations of this were formed in the 
spring the stems may not have been put deep enough in the ground, and 
part of them may be visible now ; but they will not succeed very well if 
this is the case, and the rows should be earthed up, drawing the soil well 
over the crowns and covering them completely. 
Globe Artichokes. —Where these are producing small heads cut them 
off, and allow the strong growths which are forming now to produce the 
crop. They delight in a rich soil, and a large quantity of good manure 
should be placed round the collar of each plant. 
Cabbage. —These are now turning in well, and are very acceptable. 
They should never be cut lower than is necessary to secure the head, as 
the stems if left will soon produce many valuable sprouts. Those which 
are running to flower, however, are of no use for this purpose, and they 
should be rooted out, their places being filled with young plants. Sow a 
little more seed to produce plants for heading in the latter part of the 
summer. Transplant spring-sown plants as soon as they can be handled. 
Brussels Sprouts. —The earliest of these should be planted in their 
bearing quarters. A rich deep soil is required to grow them to perfection. 
These should be 2 feet from row to row and 18 inches from plant to plant. 
Lift them with good roots, and water after planting if the weather is very 
dry. 
Leeks. —The most forward of these should he planted. There is no 
doubt about their requiring a rich soil. The old-fashioned plan of making 
very wide holes with a thick blunt-pointed dibble, putting a plant into 
each hole and dropping a little soil down on the roots, is a first-rate way 
of treating them. 
Autumn-sown Onions. —These will soon be wanted for use, and 
growth should be pushed on rapidly. Whenever it rains mix a quantity 
of soot and guano and sprinkle this all over the plants. When it is 
washed down to the roots it will improve growth wonderfully. Do not 
draw up any which have “ bolted,” hut let them grow on for a time, and 
they may then be taken up for use. Complete the sowing of all Broccoli, 
Savoys, Herbs, Asparagus, and vegetables generally. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — Early-forced Trees in Pots. — The fruit is now ripening very 
fast, and on this account reduce the supply of moisture but increase the 
ventilation. Great care and judgment will have to be exercised in the 
management of the trees, as they are carrying fruit in every stage of 
growth the daily routine must meet the wants of the succession as well as 
the ripening crop. The pots being surrounded with a mass of new roots 
will require plentiful supplies of warm water; the surface of the plunging 
material and lower parts of the trees may he regularly syringed, and the 
whole of the trees well washed immediately after the ripe fruit has been 
