May 7, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
369 
The most suitable compost is fibrous brown peat, tearing it up 
roughly, and removing any roots of large size, mixing together the 
fine as well as the rough with a seventh part of sharp or crystal sand. 
It must be moist, if not it must be made so by watering it, and be put 
together firmly. After turning the plants out of the pots with the 
soil in a moist state, have the sides of the ball loosened a little, and 
ram the soil quite firmly up to them, finishing with a flat top and 
about 3 inches wider than the ball all round, and with a slight dish 
o hold water. 
The plants suitable for placing out are those in 6 or 8-inch pots, 
and which have been grown quickly without check, strong, healthy, 
and well rooted. Old starved stunted plants are no use. Such as 
are a year and not more than two years old are best, as they will 
under good treatment be bushy, and about the time they begin grow- 
ing in April or early May is the season to plant, as they then make 
roots abundantly preparatory to the production of fresh growth. 
In the after management it is necessary to add fresh soil as the 
roots extend, in which way the whole of the bed will be occupied in 
about twelve months. The plants will be strong, with foliage like 
Laurels and flowers produced in great profusion, large, and of great 
substance. To keep them going copious supplies of tepid liquid may 
be given occasionally, with a surface dressing of rough peat and a 
fourth of cow dung or sheep droppings free from worms. The soil 
must be kept constantly moist, not giving any, however, until the soil 
requires it. Soot water 1 peck to 30 gallons of water is a capital 
stimulant. The plants need not be kept beyond the second or third 
year, as they will not only become too large, but the flowers get so 
small as not to equal those from one or two-year-old plants. By two- 
year-old plants I mean those planted now or shortly, giving fine 
flowers next season and the year following, when they may be 
removed, or not later the following season, and another house should 
be planted the year preceding the intended removal of the first plants. 
Gardenias like plenty of light to insure the solidification of the 
growth, enough heat to keep them constantly active, and abundance 
of moisture.. There must not be any resting season, consequently 
they are kept in constant activity— i.e., making growth, setting buds, 
and flowering. There is nothing Gardenias like so much as a 
thorough syringing in the morning and again in the afternoon, or at 
closing time. Less water and moisture will be needed in dull than 
in bright weather, in winter than in summer, and if clear rain water 
is used the flowers are not injured in the least. Ventilation is neces¬ 
sary early when the temperature is between 70° and 75°, increasing 
it with the sun heat, keeping it through the day from May to July at 
80° to 85° from sun heat, and closing at 80°, after which the tem¬ 
perature may rise 5° to 10°. In spring and autumn 70° to 75° by day, 
with a rise of 5° to 10° from bright sun, and 65° at night, will suffice. 
In winter provide a temperature of 60° to 65° at night, and 70° to 75° 
by day with sun heat. There must be no checks, the soil must never 
be dry, and must never be made sodden by needless waterings ; the 
atmosphere should never be rendered suddenly dry by excessive 
ventilation nor suddenly cool by cold current of air. 
No pruning is required ; indeed, it ruins all planted-out Gardenias, 
especially that pruning which removes with every flower a portion of 
wood. Irregularities of growths may need removing, but if the 
plants are properly prepared before planting out the knife will be 
needed very little if at all. When they want pruning it is better to 
root them out and consign them to the rubbish heap. If the 
flowers are cut with wood a sort of pruning will be needed after 
flowering to get them to break where desired and keep them in form, 
but the less of this the better. If the flowers are cut with wood two 
or three breaks are destroyed at the base of each, and those left 
would give a flower in as many weeks’ time as it will take a fresh 
break to afford in as many monthp. Do not cut the flowers in this 
way if succession is required, and the planting-out system ensures 
flowers throughout the year, more in spring than at any other season, 
but still an acceptable quantity at nearly all seasons. 
The plants are raised from cuttings of strong half-ripened wood, 
inserted early, and grown on quickly, not allowing them to become 
root-bound, but shifting them into larger pots as the others are filled 
with roots. They are stopped so as to form well-furnished plants, 
but this should be confined to the strongest, and if wanted for plant¬ 
ing out they ought not to be allowed to flower. In twelve months 
they will be fine plants in 6-inch pots, the second year in 8-inch or 
larger pots, and then they are fit to plant out. If plants in pots are 
wanted, and the side shelves are intended both for growing those for 
planting and for flowering in pots, the best way is not to stop the 
shoots after July even the first year, and then we have good flowering 
plants in 6-inch or 7-inch pots. After flowering merely prune them 
into shape, and shift when the new breaks are a little advanced into 
8 or 9-inch pots, by which means very fine plants are had, and if we 
want larger repeat the pruning after flowering and give 12-inch pots, and 
these specimens will give a quantity of flowers. The plants may be kept 
in pots for years, but it is not worth the practice. I have several in 
15-inch pots ; they are free-flowering and healthy, yet not comparable 
with younger plants. Gardenias in pots inquire the same treatment 
as those planted out, the only difference is in their needing more 
feeding, and I fancy some charcoal in the soil is an advantage. 
The principal insect enemy is mealy bug, but this will not make 
headway if syringing is properly done. If it does and scale appears 
syringe with petroleum—a wineglassful to 3 gallons of water, keeping 
it well mixed. 
The variety I grow is Standish’s ; but whether it is a selected 
form of G. florida I do not know.—G. Abbey. 
THE CHILIAN CROCUS. 
(TECOPHYLR3A CYANOCROCUS.) 
This charming and most distinct plant opened its first blossom on 
March 10th and lasted until quite recently. The plant is still very rare 
under cultivation. Herr Max Leichtlin must, I believe, be credited with 
its introduction to English gardens. I saw it in the Newton Nurseries 
Fig. 65.—Tecophylsea cyanocrocus. 
Chester, and through the kindness of Messrs. James Dickson & Sons was 
enabled to make the accompanying sketch. The flowers are solitary, but 
the same stem branching sometimes carries two flowers from 2 to 4 inches 
high and about 1J inch across when expanded, of a rich ultramarine blue, 
white clouded near the base and midway in the typical form ; those of 
the variety Leichtlini are soft azure blue. The colour of the type may 
be compared to Gentiana verna; the outer divisions of the perianth are 
longer and much broader than the inner ones ; leaves lanceolate, sheath¬ 
ing at the base, from 3 to 5 inches long, deep green. 
I do not think it will prove hardy in all gardens. In very warm shel¬ 
tered positions with efficient drainage it will doubtless thrive, but such a 
gem is honestly worth the protection of a handlight or small frame, and 
may be treated like Bessera elegans and other bulbs from warm tem¬ 
perate South America. It should be planted in August or September in 
rich loamy, sandy soil, with ample drainage, and after flowering allow 
the foliage to mature gradually, so that the bulbs may be well developed ; 
and to facilitate a thorough ripening allow them to have a partial baking in 
the sun by withholding moisture and allowing them to be fully exposed 
to strong sunlight, after which they may be lifted and stored till planting 
time.—T. 
OPEN-AIR TOMATOES. 
There is no more popular fruit at the present time than the Tomato. 
Many who only a few years ago looked upon them as nearly poisonous, or 
at most as plants bearing ornamental fruits, now value them highly. 
Undoubtedly the Tomato is most delicious, and its cultivation should be 
very general, but only in glass houses can it be grown to bear fruit very 
early in spring, late in autumn, or during the winter; though all who posses* 
