May 7, 1885 ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
385 
n hot weather with much less ventilation than another can, simply because 
the one starts early and prevents the heat increasing rapidly, while the 
other starts late, and the temperature rushes up and he cannot get it down 
again. The former method is right, the latter wrong. 
Soil for Chrysanthemums ( Cambridge ).—Unless the loam is excep¬ 
tionally adhesive it will, as we understand it to be turfy, be sufficiently 
porous, the wood ashes having both a good mechanical and chemical effect. 
Watering is a most important point in culture, so important that a “ good 
waterer ” will produce better results with inferior soil than a “ bad waterer ” 
will with the best compost that can possibly be prepared. It is a great 
mistake to fill the pots too full of soil, as in that case the roots suffer by 
drought sooner or later. Errors to be avoided are giving too much water 
before the roots have taken possession of the soil, and unduly limiting the 
supply afterwards. Water should be given copiously as soon as the soil 
approaches dryness, whether that is once in two days early in the season, or 
twice or more in one day as the growth advances and heat increases, 
byringing is beneficial towards the evening of hot days, and not less so is 
the vapour rising from damp ground when the air is very dry. 
Destruction of Marguerites (.4. L., Southminster). —Your plants are 
attacked by a leaf-mining insect of a similar nature to those that are so 
destructive to Celery, Parsnips, and other plants. Eggs are deposited by a 
small fly which hatch into maggots, these eating out the substance of the 
leaves and ruining the p’ants. So destructive is the Marguerite pest that in 
many places the plants cannot be grown at all. We can only suggest one 
remedy. We should like you to try the effects of petroleum prepared as 
follows :—Boil 2 ozs. of softsoap and a lump of soda the size of a walnut in 
a gallon of water, stirring in briskly half a wineglassful of ordinary petroleum 
that is burned in lamps. When this is cool stir again and dip a plant in it, 
or syringe it well, but keep it out of the sun until it is dry. If this does not 
injure the plant add twice the quantity of petroleum, and try the mixture 
on another plapt. So continue the experiment of increasing the petroleum 
so long as the increased strength does not injure the leaves, and we think it 
possible you may destroy the maggots without spoiling the plants. This 
mixture will kill the Celery maggot without hurting the plants, but we have 
not had the opportunity of trying it on Marguerites, and shall be glad if you 
will do so, and favour us with the results of your experiment. 
Carnations in Pots and Beds(Y. W. (?.).—Our small manual on florists’ 
flowers, post free 4£d., gives concise instructions on growing the plants in 
pots. You will find more complete practical details in Mr. Douglas’s work, 
“ Hardy Flowers,” which you can obtain by writing to the author at Great 
Gearies, Ilford, Essex. Neither of these works contains chapters on growing 
the plants in beds ; on this subject we cite the following brief directions 
that were commuhicated to us by the late Mr. George Rudd of Bradford. 
‘ pl°t of ground that has been occupied by Potatoes i3 most suitable for 
them, as the wireworm will have been taken out with the Potatoes. If a 
Potato patch is not to be had dig the ground over, carefully destroying all 
the wireworms that can be seen. The most suitable soil for them is a good 
marl. The Carnation is, however, very accommodating, and will grow in 
nearly any kind. I have used light soil, pressing it firmly around the 
planes, whilst in strong soil I do not press the soil so firmly. In planting 
I raise the beds a few inches above the surrounding ground, planting the 
plants in twos or threes according to their strength. The clump 3 are a foot 
apart and 15 to 18 inches between the rows. Only two rows are placed in a 
bed, leaving a pathway between that and the next bed, so that they are con¬ 
venient for layering. If the ground is poor it is a good plan to dig in some 
well-decomposed manure, that from an old hotbed will do very well. Before 
planting thoroughly incorporate it, and if at all sour give a sprinkling of lime, 
Egging it in a few days before planting. If these simple cultural directions 
are followed any grower may succeed in growing Carnations and Picotees 
in beds. The following is a list of the varieties I have found the best suited 
for culture in beds.— Carnations. — Scarlet Bizarres. —Admiral Curzon, John 
Burnett, Edward Adams. Crimson Bizarres. —Rifleman, Lord Milton, J. D. 
Hextall. Pink and Purple Bizarres. —Falconbridge, Wm. Murray, Sarah 
Payne. Purple Flakes .—Dr. Foster, Jas. Douglas, and Squire Meynell. 
Scarlet Flakes. —Dan Godfrey, Sportsman, and Clipper. Bose Flakes. — 
Sibyl, John Keet, and Rose of Stapleford. Picotees. — Heavy Bed. —John 
Smith, J. B. Bryant, Brunette. Light Bed. —Sarah Elizabeth, Thomas 
William, Violet Douglas. Heavy Purple. —Alliance, Zerlina, Tinnie. Light 
Purple. —Ann Lord, Alice (medium), Master Nichol, and Her Majesty. 
Heavy Rose or Scarlet .—Fanny Hellen, Lady Holmesdale, and Mrs. Rudd. 
Light Bose or Scarlet. —Mrs. Adams, Mrs. Allcroft, and Miss Wood. For 
flowering this year strong plants established in pots should be planted 
without a day’s unnecessary delay. An excellent article on growing these 
plants in beds appears on page 230, the issue of this Journal of March 22nd, 
1883, by a very experienced cultivator. This article you might perhaps 
read with advantage. 
Primulas sinensis ( Lover of Perfection). —If these plants are required 
very large, with several crowns, the seed should be sown at once. Large 
plants with a number of crowns produce a greater display of bloom than 
plants confined to a single crown, although the flowers from the latter are 
generally superior in size. The seed should be sown on the surface of pans 
or pots filled with a compost of equal portions of loam, half-decayed leaf 
mould, and sand—the two former having been passed through a fine sieve. 
A little of the leaf mould should be scattered on the surface, and then the 
seed, but no soil over the seed. A good watering through a fine rose should 
be given, and the pot or pan covered with a square of glass, on which a 
little damp moss should be laid to exclude light. The seed will soon germi¬ 
nate in a temperature of 60°, when the glass must be gradually raised and 
the seedlings exposed to more light and air. Directly they will stand full 
exposure in the house they must be arranged close to the glass until they 
are large enough to be pricked off into other pots or pans. These must 
again be arranged close to the glass, and when well established they should 
gradually be removed to a lower temperature until they can be grown 
entirely under cool conditions. It is a good plan when pricking them off 
from the seed pot to give them sufficient room to grow and develops until 
they are large enough for 3-inch pots. By the time they are ready for this 
size they should be strong sturdy little plants, and almost ready for cool 
treatment. A frame on a gentle hotbed is suitable after potting, and the 
plants should be kept rather close and shaded for a week or ten days, or 
until they commence rooting into the new soil, when light and air are 
essential for sturdy growth. When these pots are well filled with roots repot 
them into 5 and 6-inch pots, which are large enough for growing extra 
sized plants in. A few, however, of the best and most promising that are 
placed 'n the small size may afterwards be transplanted to 7-inch pots. The 
pots should be drained moderately, and the soil pressed fairly firm into 
them. The small lower leaves of the plant each time they are potted should 
be removed and the collar of the plants well buried in the soil. It is a 
great mistake when potting to leave them loose at the collar, for they are 
not only subject to injury when being removed, but are more liable to 
damp off; in addition when potted deeply they root freely from the stem. 
They should be kept close as before until the roots are working freely, when 
they should be given abundance of air on all favourable occasions, gradually 
at first, and as the season advances the frame should be left open all night. 
Primulas require abundance of light, but at the same time must be shaded 
from the strong rays of the sun ; plenty of air, and the plants arranged 
close to the glass, are the secrets of producing dwarf sturdy compact plants, 
which are essential for the production of abundance of fine bloom. Very 
careful watering in every stage of growth should be practised. The soil in 
which they are growing should never be allowed to become quite dry, and, 
on the other hand, should never be saturated. When the pots are full of 
roots weak stimulants may with advantage be given, or, better still, a little 
artificial manure applied to the surface, and the plants watered every alter¬ 
nate watering with clear soot water. In autumn, when damp and cold 
compel the removal of the plants from the frame, they should occupy 
a light airy position close to the glass in the greenhouse. When 
wanted in flower they should be introduced into a structure where 
the night temperature can be maintained from 45° to 50°, when they will 
soon throw up their strong trusses of bloom. A suitable compost for these 
plants is three parts fibry loam, one part half-decayed leaf mould, one- 
seventh of cow manure that has been stacked and prepared for use, and 
sufficient coarse sand to keep the soil open and porous. We regret the 
publication of this reply has been unduly deferred by accident; it will, 
however, be soon enough to be useful. The finest Primulas we ever saw 
were raised from seed sown in May, and exhibited at Birmingham towards 
the end of November. 
Names of Plants.—We only undertake to name species of plants, not 
varieties that have originated from seed and termed florists’ flowers. 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fronds 
should contain spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm 
boxes. Slightly damp moss or soft green leaves form the best packing, dry 
cotton wool the worst. Not more than six specimens can be named at once. 
— (Mrs. G. J., Wavertree ).—Your Pansy has no recognised name ; it appears 
to be a seedling of one of the Belgian Pansies, but arrived quite curled and 
shrivelled. ( H. M .).—Ornithogalum nutans. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— May 6th. 
The cold rain has considerably affected trade in our market, and prices 
of hothouse goods are lower. Vegetables plentiful. 
FRUIT. 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
Apples .. .. 
J sieve 
2 
6 
to 4 
6 
Oranges. 
.. 100 
4 
0 to 
7 
0 
Chestnuts .. 
bushel 16 
0 
0 
0 
Peaches. 
per doz. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Cobs, Kent .. 
per 
100 lbs. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pears, kitchen 
dozen 
1 
0 
3 
0 
Currants, Red 
A sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
,, dessert 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
,, Black 
| sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pine Apples English .. lb. 
3 
6 
4 
0 
Figs .. .. 
dozen 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Plums . 
£ sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Crapes .. .. 
.. lb. 
6 
0 
10 
0 
Strawberries.. 
.. lb. 
2 
0 
6 
0 
Lemons .. .. 
,. case 
10 
0 
16 
0 
St. Michael Pines 
..each 
3 
0 
7 
0 
VEGETABLES. 
S. 
d. 
s. 
d 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
Artichokes .. 
dozen 
2 
0 
to 4 
0 
Lettuce. 
dozen 
1 
0 to 
2 
0 
Asparagus 
bundle 
2 
0 
5 
0 
Mushrooms .. . 
punnet 
0 
0 
1 
4 
Beans, Kidney 
100 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Mustard and Cress 
punnet 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Beet, Red .. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Onions . 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 
6 
Broccoli .. 
bundle 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Parsley .. dozen bunches 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Brussels Sprouts 
£ sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Parsnips. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Cabbage .. .. 
dozen 
0 
0 
1 
0 
Potatoes. 
cwt. 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Capsicums 
100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
,, Kidney . 
cwt. 
4 
0 
5 
0 
Carrots .. .. 
bunch 
0 
S 
0 
4 
Rhubarb. 
bundle 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Cauliflowers .. 
dozen 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Salsafy. 
bundle 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Celery .. .. 
bundle 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Scorzonera .. .. 
bundle 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Coleworts dtz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Seakale .. .. per basket 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Cucumbers 
each 
0 
3 
0 
6 
Shallots. 
0 
8 
0 
0 
Endive .. .. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Spinach. 
bushel 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Herbs .. .. 
bunch 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Tomatoes .. 
.. lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Leeks .. .. 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Turnips. 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
0 
PROVISION FOR WINTER. 
With only enough hay, straw, and roots left to afford 
food for a fortnight for some fifty head of cattle, pastures 
practically bare of food, what is to be done ? Such was the 
dilemma of a farmer at the end of March, and, to make bad 
worse, prices for store beasts were so low that to sell at all 
was to incur a certain loss; yet eventually they were sold 
by auction for what they would bring, leaving behind them 
