May 14, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
405 
around each stem, an 1 then earth them up. Earthing up steadies the 
stems and prevents the surface tubers becoming green and useless. The 
proper timo for earthing is when the stems are from 6 to 8 inches high. 
Peas .— Sow largely for autumn crop3. Give them deep rich soil and 
a sunny position. Earth and stake advancing crops. Those coming into 
flower should have the point nipped from the top of each shoot, as this 
will induce them to fill their pods some weeks earlier than they would do 
if allowed to grow. In dry weather water with liquid manure, and if 
a special effort has to be made to get the first Peas in as soon as possible 
give the water heated to 85°. 
Celery .—The Celery of 1881 has kept uncommonly well, we have 
a quantity of it good now. It is not very tender for the pantry, but does 
capitally for the kitchen, and all who have any left should preserve it for 
use there. It will be much valued. The ground where it has been 
growing should be wanted for other crops, but it will do very well if taken 
up and laid in amongst ashes. Early plants may be planted in the trenches. 
We have lately put out some scores but not the main crop, as they are 
only for exhibition at the autumn shows. Lift the plants with good 
roots, give them plenty of room and water after planting if the weather 
is not showery. 
Endive .—Where this is wanted early in the autumn a pinch of seed 
should be sown now. The Broad-leaved Batavian is undoubtedly the best 
of all. A little patch, a yard square or so, if sown broadcast, will produce 
sufficient plants for a first lot. Do not cover the seed more than half an 
inch below the surface, and sow rather thinly. As soon as the seedlings 
can be handled transplant them 10 inches apart in cool rich soil. 
Witloof .—This is an excellent winter salad, and should be grown in 
every garden where there is any demand for salad in winter. It is a 
Carrot-like rooting plant, with leaves somewhat resembling the Dandelion. 
It is an improvement on the old Chicory. If sown too soon it is very 
liable to flower prematurely in the autumn, and this spoils it, but sown now 
it will hardly do this. The ground for its reception should be free and 
open, and the seed should be sown in rows 12 inches or 15 inches apart, 
and about 1 inch below the surface. Two or three rows 8 or 10 yards in 
length will supply a great many roots for forcing. When 2 inches high 
they should be thinned to 6 inches apart. 
Kidney Beans .—Dwarfs in frames are now fruiting very freely. Give 
plenty of air on fine days, and close the lights early in the afternoons if it 
is desired to push on the crop quickly. If there are any frames empty sow 
more seed of the Ne Plus Ultra variety. They will fruit before any in 
the open air. Those in the open are through, but they do not grow 
rapidly at this season ; cold nights do not agree with them. As soon as 
they are a few inches high earth them up, and if it should come very cold 
or windy put a few twigs along each side of the rows to afford a little 
protection. A good sowing may now be made in the open. The plants 
from this will not be up until June, and they will get on all right then. 
Treat Runners in earthing up and protecting as advised for Dwarfs, and 
when they are 6 inches high put the stakes to them. Any Runners which 
have been raised in pots or boxes in frames to come in early for any special 
purpose may now be planted out. Plant in small groups here and there, 
stake at once, and put a few Laurel branches Around to keep them snug 
for a time. 
Broccoli , Brussels Sj>routs, and Savoys .—The seed of those sown in 
the nursery beds some weeks ago have now produced a fine crop of young 
plants, and there is danger of their becoming too crowded. Where there 
is any indication of this draw out the largest of the plants and dibble them 
in about 3 inches apart in another place. We plant many hundreds of 
them in this way along the margins of the walks and at the ends of the 
other crops, and there they remain and do well until they are transferred 
to their bearing quarters. Where the soil is poor a little leaf soil, Mush¬ 
room bed refuse, or something of the kind should be forked into the 
surface before dibbling in the plants. 
Cauliflowers .—All plants ready for planting should be put out at once, 
the different kinds being kept by themselves. Such a variety as Yeitch’s 
Autumn Giant takes much longer to head than Carter’s Defiance or some 
of the very early ones, and as these should be cleared off the ground 
before the Giant is anything like in or ready for use, it is easily understood 
the advantage of not mixing them. A handful of lime or soot should 
be shaken round the stem of every Cauliflower plant before it is earthed 
up, as they have all a tendency to go off with the worm at the root, and it 
is best to try and prevent this by some such simple means as we have 
suggested. 
Weeds .—These are now appearing on all sides, and if allowed to go 
on they will soon seed and give no end of trouble. This should be avoided. 
Hoe all open spaces frequently, and handweed all thick places amongst 
close-growing plants and such like. If they can be kept down and 
mastered now they will give little or no trouble by midsummer or in autumn. 
Tomatoes .—The earliest of these may be planted in the open. Give 
them a bright warm position against a south wall. They should not be 
blanted closer than 3 feet apart, and one may be put in here and there 
between trees and to fill up any open space. Each plant should have 
about a wheelbarrow-load of pure loam to grow in, and no manure cr 
liquid should be given until the crop is formed. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Sub-tropical Plants .—These to be effective ought to be of good size 
when planted out, and no greater mistake can be made in their treatment 
than keeping the plants starving in small pots. All such sorts as are 
raised from seed, notably the fine-foliaged Solanums, Acacia lopbantha, 
Ferdinandia eminens, Grevillea robusta, Wigandia caracassana, Castor-oil 
Plants, Ferula gigantea, Tobacco Plants, Eucalyptus, and Humea elegans 
are best potted into 6-inch or still larger pots, and kept growing in a 
warm house till near the time they are wanted for the flower garden. A 
mixture of two parts of good loam to one of leaf soil and addition of sharp 
sand will suit all of them ; and after the pots are full of roots an occasional 
supply of soot water or other liquid manure will not be thrown away on 
them. Now is a good time to split up the old clumps of Cannas, the 
divisions being either placed in deep boxes filled with good soil or potted 
in any sized pots into which the divisions will go comfortably. It is 
advisable to thus divide Cannas even if it is not necessary to increase the 
stock, as when strong clumps are planted the growths become crowded, 
and are not nearly so effective as the divided plants, which are certain to 
perfect much finer foliage. The same remarks apply to all the Dahlias. 
Of these one of the most effective probably when mixed with sub-tropical 
plants is the single Alba or White Queen. Strong old plants of Marguerites, 
Plumbago capensis, Erythrina crista-galli, Abutilons, Fuchsias, Begonias, 
Dracaenas, and Caladium esculentum are frequently most effectively bedded 
out, and none should be thrown away till it is seen if they are wanted. 
Hardening off Plants .—The hardiest of the sorts used in the flower 
beds during the summer ought now to be got outside, both in order to 
harden them off before being planted, and also to afford room for the 
boxing-off of the more delicate kinds such as Iresines, Coleuses, and Alter- 
nantheras. Where frames are available these are the best for the purpose, 
as they afford protection from frosts, hail, and rain. Failing these 
temporary frameworks for supporting mats or other protecting material 
are necessary, and if these will ward off heavy cold rains so much the 
better. The change from warm houses and pits to an outside temperature 
should be gradual, and the delicate sorts must not be heavily watered at 
first. Early-struck Verbenas, Lobelias, Zonal Pelargoniums, shrubby 
Calceolarias, Gazania splendens, Golden Pyrethrums, and Cinerarias are 
among the first to be hardened off. The Calceolarias and Violas may be 
planted out at once, and the old plants of the latter divided and replanted 
if need be. Some of the hardiest of the Pelargoniums, Verbenas, &c., 
may also be planted out where the positions are sheltered, hut as a rule 
nothing is gained by early planting, and it sometimes happens that much 
time is really lost by it. 
Late-struck Plants .—The present is a good time to put in the principal 
portion of Alternanthera cuttings, and it is not yet too late to strike 
Iresines, Coleuses, and Verbenas. The simplest plan is to make up slight 
hotbeds for frames, placing in the latter first some of the shortest 
heating material so as to bring the cuttings near the glass, on this being 
levelled about I inches of fine light sandy soil. Directly it is found tho 
bed will not become too hot, the cuttings may be dibbled in thinly, or 
about I inches apart each way, and watered in. They should be kept 
close and shaded from bright sunshine, and will soon strike root. They 
quickly attain to a good size, and may eventually be transplanted direct 
to the beds. Such late-struck plants not unfrequently thrive better than 
do those struck much earlier, and which are often spoilt before they are 
finally planted out. Much mischief is often done by attempting to harden 
off the delicate kinds, notably Heliotropes, Iresines, Coleuses, and Alter- 
nantheras, much before June, this giving them a check from which they 
are very slow to recover. Mesembryanthemums, Petunias, Tropaeolums, 
Gaillardias, Sempervivums, Konigas, do not move well out of boxes, and 
therefore should be potted in pairs or singly, either now, or as soon as 
the pots now containing Pelargoniums are available. They will, if kept 
rather warm, root quickly into the fresh soil, and may then be hardened 
and planted out without receiving any serious check. Shallow boxe3 
and light soil suit the delicate Alternantheras and Iresines, and care must 
be taken not to keep the soil too wet, especially when they are in cold 
frames. 
Amaranthus melancliolicus ruber .—In some gardens where the soil 
is not cold and heavy this proves a good substitute for Iresine Herbstii, 
and it is yet early enough to raise a stock of it, as it must not be planted 
out early. Sow the seed in a pan of fine light soil, cover lightly, and 
place in warm house or frame. Expose the seedlings to prevent their 
becoming drawn, and pot off into thumb pots when large enough to 
handle. Shade from bright sunshine till rooted afresh, keeping them 
growing in heat till large enough for planting, when they should be 
hardened off, and be among the last to go out. Perilla nankinensis and 
P. atro-purpurea laciniatus may also be similarly raised and be in time 
for bedding out. 
Annuals in Boxes. —Asters, Stocks, Zinnias, Phloxes, Marigolds, &c., 
ought not to be kept thickly in the seed pans or boxes, but should be 
pricked out on slight or nearly spent hotbeds and covered with lights for 
a few days, or they may be pricked off in boxes and finally planted before 
they again become crowded. 
EARLY SPRING BREEDING. 
At page 297 your correspondent, “ P. H. P.,” in answer to a query of 
mine, asking how he could prevent breeding being carried on in hives 
from Christmas onwards, says : “ We cannot, nor would we try to, stop 
the natural augmentation of our stocks in the late winter and early spring 
months. What we spoke against in a former letter was the abnormal 
condition of many stocks in March, brought about by injudicious stimula¬ 
tion, and entirely by artificial means. Our advice has been to assist 
, Nature.” The last sentence is what I have all along taught and tried to 
