May 14, 1883. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
407 
Killing Vines (T. 8. T .).—After carefully perusing your letter we have 
arrived at the conclusion that the Vines have been destroyed by the reck¬ 
less use of linseed oil, petroleum, and black sulphur applied by the jobbing 
gardener. We have no doubt on this point, and it proves once more the 
truth of the dictum of a “little learning being a dangerous thing.” This 
is not the first time we have known Vines killed with petroleum and 
other oil. 
Liquid Manure (M. P.). —You have been correctly informed that pouring 
boiling water on fowl dung, stirring it, allowing it to cool and clear, then 
using it of the colour of weak tea, is good for Cucumbers, and is certain to 
invigorate them when there are an abundance of active roots incited by 
rough top-dressings to absorb the liquid food. It is also good for Chrysan¬ 
themums, and what are known as gross-feeding plants generally. It must 
not be used too strong, nor given to plants just potted or planted, free root- 
action being an important factor tending to success. 
Destroying Slugs (Petit). —The most simple and effectual method with 
which we are acquainted is to water the beds where the pests are so de¬ 
structive with lime water ; but it must be applied when they are feeding 
after dark, not when they are hiding in the daytime. A peck of “ shells ” 
or lumps of lime will be sufficient for thirty gallons of water, and it should 
stand to get clear. Slaked or powdered lime is of no use. There are 
scarcely any plants that will be injured by the lime water; on the contrary, 
the majority will be benefited by it, especially Box. If a line of moist 
tar can be spread between the orchard and flowers slugs will not cross it. 
If you will repeat your question relative to spring-flowering plants, and 
state whether your require them for growing in pots under glass or for 
planting in the garden, your letter shall have our attention. The lime 
water should be applied through a rosed watering pot, and it will destroy 
all the slugs that are drenched with it. 
Manure for Mushrooms (M. P., Brighouse). —You appear to have done 
all you could under the circumstances, except heaping the manure and 
combing it down that rain would not pass from it. As it is now saturated 
we do not advise you to use it for Mushrooms, except you can make a bed 
in a very cool place after the heap has heated again and been turned for 
the dissipation of excessive moisture. This is the worst of all seasons for 
beginners to commence endeavouring to grow Mushrooms. If you refer to 
page 29 of the third edition of “Mushrooms for the Million” you will find 
an excellent method described of sheltering manure when collected in 
small quantities from heavy rains. 
Culture of Fadyenia prolifera (W. X.). —This curious little Fern 
requires the temperature of an ordinary exotic fernery, or the cool end of a 
moist stove. It succeeds in a compost of peat and sand with abundant 
drainage, a wide shallow pan being best suited for it, as the long narrow 
fronds can then extend freely. When the young plants are produced at 
the point they will soon root in the soil, and may be either separated or 
allowed to remain, the latter being generally preferred, as they impart a 
peculiar appearance to the plant. It is usually found advisable to cover the 
plant with a bellglass to preserve an equable temperature and moisture 
about it. 
Labels (B. C.). —We use labels made of deal, rubbing paint on them, and 
writing with a black pencil before the paint dries. If the labels are newly 
made—that is, not dried quite hard, the pressure of the pencil through the 
paint and into the wood causes the letters to be embedded, and the names 
are legible for a very long time—even for years, and by securing the labels 
with small copper wire to stout pieces of galvanised wire in convenient 
lengths for inserting in the ground, they are practically imperishable. We 
do not say this is the ‘ best” label, but as a home-made article we find it 
satisfactory. Metallic and earthenware labels are manufactured for sale and 
periodically advertised, but it is contrary to our rule to recommend the 
goods of any particular vendor, and thus imply unjustly that some others 
are relatively inferior. 
Packing Strawberries to Send by Kail ( B. N. S.). —We submitted 
your inquiries on packing fruit to a very experienced gardener, who replies 
as follows :—“ Shallow deal boxes about 1J inch deep are most suitable, so‘ 
as to hold a single layer of fruit, and they may be of any size in other 
respects as the quantity to be sent may determine. Ours for sending from 
the country to the family in London daily are of half-inch deal, 12 inches 
long and 11 inches wide, and any number travel safely placed one upon the 
other and securely tied together with string. We pad the bottom of the 
box with a layer of Yine or Spinach leaves, gathered a short time so as to 
become limp, and then place the Strawberries in the box with the stalk 
downwards, enclosing each fruit in a Strawberry leaf, and placing rather 
tightly so as to prevent moving about, and keeping the fruit sufficiently low 
so as to prevent crushing by the lid, which is placed down on a layer of 
leaves as at the bottom.” 
Heading Down Large Purple Beech (Nemo). —We fully sympathise 
with you in your dilemma respecting the Beech tree, which prevents your 
growing other trees that would be interesting and useful. We should 
sacrifice the tree so as to permit having the ground laid out in the manner 
denoted in your plan, which shows taste and judgment, being just what 
should be sought in a town garden—viz., open space, lawn sufficient for 
recreation, enlivened with evergreen and flowering shrubs, and interesting 
at all seasons with flowers in succession. We have had a little experience 
in heading down Beech trees, but that has not been at all satisfactory. 
Some of the trees have broken freely enough ; but they were young and 
had a quantity of spray or young twiggy growths, from which fresh 
emanated freely so as to form a compact head; but wheD the heads were cut 
off, leaving little beyond bare branches of considerable age and thickness, we 
found them push fresh growth very tardily, and in only one instance was a 
good head formed. We should, however, cut the head in as shown in your 
sketch, and if you can leave some branches with growth we have no doubt 
that a new head will be formed in time with a little attention in removing 
irregularities. 
Alteration of Conservatory Lights (M. G. B.). —The best system of 
ventilation for the side of a conservatory is that of windows with the lights 
sliding past each other, or the upper part down and the lower part up ; but 
as this is not always convenient on account of the paths not affording ready 
access, a very good arrangement may be effected by having the lower 
half hinged and opened by crank-and-lever movement. This system we 
should advise in your case, or the windows may be made in casements as 
shown in the side elevation a, opening in the centre and both outwards 
with crank-and-lever movement. It is a question, however, for an architect 
to decide, as the conservatory no doubt forms part of the mansion. It will 
not answer to place the glass in a groove in the rafters or astragals unless 
they are bedded on and filled above the glass with putty. An oidinary 
rebate is better, the glass being bedded in putty, but all the putty above 
the glass removed, the panes of glass being secured in position with copper 
tacks. The roof ventilation appears properly contrived. 
The Horse Mushroom (A. D.). —Yes, it is early for Mushrooms out of 
doors, but the specimen you sent is not Agaricus campestris but A. arven- 
sis, the Horse Mushroom. This is thus described in “ Eatable Funguses of 
Great Britain”:—“Nearly allied to the common Mushroom, so nearly 
indeed that it is scarcely better entitled to rank as a separate species than 
the varieties pratensis and silvicola are; but as it is accounted distinct by many 
authors, and has many qualities of note, it well deserves a separate con¬ 
sideration. The Horse Mushroom has a dome-shaped pileus, bell-shaped 
in youth, and expanding in maturity, generally of a pure white colour and 
cottony texture, but losing its downy appearance in age ; and a veil con¬ 
sisting of a double membrane, thick, woolly, falling from the edge of the 
pileus and hanging loosely round the stem; the gills are free, pale pinkish 
brown, becoming darker as they get older; the stem is cylindrical, the 
cavity filled with cottony pith. The flesh turns yellow when bruised. 
Occasionally the pileus is tinged with brown. It attains a large sizo. 
Authorities are at variance as to the manner of its growth. Mr. Berkeley 
describes it as growing in rings, and Mrs. Hussey does not number it among 
those addicted to circular growth. When it does grow in rings they are of 
a very large size indeed, and as they are seldom perfect it is easy to overlook 
the relation which one group bears to another. Fields and woods are the 
habitats of this Mushroom; those growing in the former are the most 
wholesome. They should not be taken in the button stage like the 
A. campestris, but are in perfection just as the veil has broken away from 
the pileus and the bell-shape is merging into the dome. In this stage, and 
later if free from larvae, the Mushroom is excellent fried or stewed, and for 
this purpose is sold in Covent Garden Market. It is one of the best Mush¬ 
rooms for making ketchup, its large size being a great desideration in this 
matter.” 
Vines Unsatisfactory (M. P. D.). —As the Grapes do not finish satis¬ 
factorily and frequently shank, the roots are not in a healthy state, the 
wood not ripening perfectly. The only remedy will be to have the border 
thoroughly renovated in autumn or as soon as the wood is ripe, the roots 
being lifted and laid in f< esh compost nearer the surface. The drainage, if 
defective, must be rectified. At present we should cease syringing the 
Vines, but maintain a good moisture by damping available surfaces in 
the house other than the Vines in the morning and again at closing time. 
This, with suitable moisture at the roots, will be sufficient to keep red 
spider in check. The soil of the border is too wet, although when. Vines 
are in active growth and their crops swelling it is scarcely possible to give too 
much water, provided the borders are thoroughly drained and composed of 
material through which the water can percolate freely. The Vines should 
be allowed to extend so as to encourage root-action, a deficiency of which 
is probably the cause of the Grapes shanking. Allow the laterals to extend 
as far as space admits, but do not overcrowd the principal foliage. We 
should have a little ventilation constantly, opening both top and bottom 
lights after the Grapes change colour, so as to cause a circulation of air. 
Ventilate early and increase with the sun heat to 80° to 85°, closing 
for the day at 80°, and if the temperature rise to 85° or 90° afterwards it 
will be beneficial, taking care to ventilate a little again before nightfall, 
and allow the temperature to fall through the night to 65°, or even 60° 
on cold nights. If the crop is too heavy remove some of the worst bunches 
at once. Overcropping is a great evil, and causes many failures. 
Names of Plants.—We only undertake to name species of plants, not 
varieties that have originated from seed and termed florists’ flowers. 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fronds 
should contain spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm 
boxes. Slightly damp moss or soft green leaves form the best packing, dry 
cotton wool the worst. Not more than six specimens can be named at once. 
(R. O ).—Hedera Raegneriana. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET— May 13th. 
Business very quiet. Prices lower all round. Vegetables unaltered. 
FRUIT. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Apples .. .. 
2 
6 
to 4 
6 
Chestnuts .. 
.. bushel 16 
0 
0 
0 
Cobs, Kent .. 
per 100 lbs. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Currants, Red 
.. A sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
„ Black 
.. \ sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Figs .. .. 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Grapes .. .. 
4 
0 
7 
0 
Lemons.. .. 
>. .. case 
io 
0 
16 
0 
S. 
d. 
8. 
d 
Artichokes 
,. dozen 
2 
0 
to 4 
0 
Asparagus 
.. bundle 
2 
0 
5 
0 
Beans, Kidney 
100 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Beet, Red 
., dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Broccoli .. 
.. bundle 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Brussels Sprouts 
.. £ sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Cabbage .. .. 
.. dozen 
0 
0 
1 
0 
Capsicums .. 
100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Carrots .. .. 
0 
S 
0 
4 
Cauliflowers .. 
.. dozen 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Celery .. .. 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Coleworts dcz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Cucumbers 
.. each 
0 
3 
0 
6 
Endive .. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Herbs .. .. 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Leeks .. .. 
0 
3 
0 
4 
s. d. s. d. 
Oranges. 100 4 0 to 7 0 
Peaches.perdoz. 15 0 21 0 
Pears, kitchen .. dozen 10 3 0 
,, dessert .. dozen 0 0 0 0 
Pine Apples English.. It. 8 6 4 0 
Plums .i sieve 0 0 0 0 
Strawberries.lb. 2 0 5 0 
St. Michael Pines ..each 3 0 7 0 
lBLES. 
s. d. s. d' 
Lettuce.dozen 1 0 to 2 ” 
Mushrooms .. ..punnet 0 0 1 4 
Mustard and Cress punnet 0 2 0 p 
Onions .bunch 0 3 0 
Parsley .. dozen bunches 2 0 8 ” 
Parsnips.dozen 10 2 
Potatoes. cwt. 4 0 6 ” 
,, Kidney .. cwt. 4 0 5 ” 
Rhubarb.bundle 0 4 0 ” 
Salsafy.bundle 10 0 u 
Scorzonera .. .. bundle 16 0 0 
Seakale .. .. per basket 10 0 0 
Shallots.lb. 0 8 0 0 
Spinach.bushel 2 0 4 0 
Tomatoes .lb. 0 0 0 0 
Turnips .. •• .. bunch 0 4 0 0 
