May 28, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
441 
of D. Wardianum at South Kensington, together with a few others who 
have succeeded with other species, and thus, like Mr. Prinsep, demon¬ 
strate to the Orchid-growing world the soundness of the practice. 
Those who were interested in this matter and happened to visit the 
Conference had an opportunity of comparing the unpruned D. nobile from 
Chatsworth with Mr. Prinsep’s “ pruned ” specimen. The Chatsworth 
plant was, indeed, a large one, but both in pseudo-bulbs and flowers there 
was a remarkable contrast between the two. Although the Chatsworth 
plant had a great number of old leafless and flowerless growths, which the 
non-pruning advocates assert are of so much value in acting as store¬ 
houses to supply the young growths, we failed to see the supposed benefits 
of leaving these useless and unsightly spent portions to not only disfigure, 
but also crowd out the young growths which need so much light and room 
upon those who have not yet tried Mr. Prinsep’s plan to do so on a single 
plant, and thus prove to their own satisfaction whether the practice is 
right or wrong. Let it be understood that our remarks are confined solely 
to D. nobile, and do not refer to any other species, although we do not 
see why the same plan should not be pursued with D. chrysauthum and 
D. Pierardi. This, however, is a problem which sooner or later will find a 
solution, and perhaps be of great benefit to Orchid growers.—A Pruning 
Advo cate. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
The plants intended for standards for decoration to branch naturally 
after the month of July, or for the production of exhibition blooms, will 
Fig. 110.—Dendrobiuh nobile. 
to make satisfactory pseudo-lulbs. In Mr. Prinsep’s plants there were 
pseudo-bulbs of nearly treble the length laden with flowers from base to 
apex, and from which all spent bulbs had been removed before the non¬ 
flowering bulbs had advanced in growth more than a few inches, thus 
proving conclusively that the pruning away of old spent bulbs is a 
gain rather than a disadvantage. 
It has been remarked by some that the high temperature employed by 
Mr. Prinsep during the growth of the plants has been the secret of 
success in producing such fine results, and not the mere pruning away of 
the old pseudo-bulbs alone. Even supposing that to be correct—and 
surely there is no difference between the practice of employing a higher 
temperature to start the Vine and stove plants generally into growth in 
early spring, and that of placing these Dendrobes in a similarly higher 
temperature to promote active and quick growth—there is nothing to pre¬ 
vent others from following the same plan. 
The subject of pruning or non-pruning has not yet had a fair trial at 
the hands of the opponents of the system, and we would strongly urge 
now be sturdy little specimens in 6-inch pots with from one to three or 
more shoots. If they have been carefully hardened they may now be 
placed into 10-inch pots, the size in which they will be flowered, and then 
stood outside in a sheltered position. It is well to place them where they 
can be protected for a time from cold winds, or where a little tiffany can' 
be thrown over them in case of frost, which may yet occur. Press the 
soil firmly into the pots, the best compost being fibry loam, a small por¬ 
tion of decayed manure, one 6-inch potful of bonemeal, and the same 
quantity of soot to each barrowful of soil. Stakes must be placed to the 
plants as the operation of potting proceeds, and all young growths appear¬ 
ing at the axils of the leaves can be removed, but the leading shoots 
should not be stopped. Plants required for bushes that have been fre¬ 
quently pinched may be placed in the same size and stood out, allowing 
them to become established in the new soil before their shoots are again 
pinched. Careful watering must be practised until the roots are working 
freely in the new soil. 
Fompons, and the smaller flowering section if ready, may also be 
