448 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND C0T1AQE GARDENER 
[ May 28, 1885. 
Earth up the earliest rows of Dwarfs, and if they require protection sup¬ 
port with Birch twigs, Spruce or Laurel branches. 
Vegetable Marrows. —The planting-out of these should be completed. 
Give them mounds of poor soil in warm sunny spots, and if the plants 
have not been properly hardened or are likely to be checked by unusually 
cold weather protect them at night with a handlight or a box or flower 
pot turned upside down. We have a number of boxes without top or 
bottom, about 1 foot square, and the same in depth, which we use for all 
plants of this kind when newly planted, and they answer admirably for 
keeping off the wind or rain, which would affect them injuriously. 
Thinning Vegetables. —Beetroot, Turnips, Carrots, Parsnips, &c.,are 
now growing very fast, and require weekly attention in the way of thin¬ 
ning. Good vegetables will never be secured where thi3 is not attended 
to. They should all be thinned first as soon as they can be handled to 
3 inches or 4 inches apart; and, secondly, when the leaves begin to meet 
in the rows at that distance,.every alternate plmt or more should be drawn 
away. We consider thinning our greatest help to perfect development. 
Paksley. —This has germinated well, and the plants are now about 
3 inches high from the first spring sowing. They are much too close, and 
must be thinned, but those drawn out will not be thrown away but 
planted elsewhere. Parsley is easily transplanted, and a first-rate plantation 
may be formed in the manner indicated. The ground for its reception 
should be deeply dug, well manured, and a quantity of soot or salt should 
be deeply dug in at the same time to keep away the grubs. The plants 
should be drawn carefully to preserve the roots, and be dibbled in rows 
15 inches apart one way and 6 inches the other. Sow some soot on the 
top of the plants in the seed rows when it rains, and cut the tops off last 
year’s plants before they bloom. 
Turnips. —To have these really sweet and tender throughout the 
season they must be sown frequently in small quantities, but a larger 
sowing should be made now than has been done lately, as this will 
give the autumn supply. Veitch’s Red Globe is the best to siw now; it 
remains long in prime condition, especially on deep rich soil. As Spinach, 
early Potatoes, and such like come off the ground, fill it with Turnips. 
Sow very thickly, and keep the rows 18 inches apart. Early Milan is our 
best Turnip just now. It is before all the others. 
Mushrooms. —Our spring beds have done uncommonly well, but the 
credit is hardly ours, as we have given them no more attention than others 
in seasons when they did not bear half so long and heavily. One bed made 
up in a cool shed in a lean-to position against the wall about the middle 
of January began bearing before February wa3 over, and it is still pro¬ 
ducing. It is quite three months since we gathered the first dish from it, 
and it speaks well for the cool system that they should continue so long; 
the bed would have been exhausted long ago in a warm house. Beds 
made up now will bear by the middle of July, and they should be placed 
in cool positions. Dry the manure to a moderate extent, make the bed 
very firm, spawn and soil over before the heat falls below 95°, and success 
is sure to follow. Where there are no suitable sheds put them under 
trees or against walls. They will almost grow anywhere, and should be 
tried by all. 
Lettuce. —Sow more seed of the summer varieties, and plant out 
from the previous sowings. Excellent Lettuces may be grown on Celery 
ridges, and it is rather strange that they should do better on these high 
and dry positions than on level cool soil. Those planted along the bottom 
of the wall in April are now turning in, and any which run to flower are 
cleared away at once to give place to other plants. 
Spinach. —The old winter crop has ju3t been thrown away. It has 
been very useful and profitable of late. The soil it came from is now 
poor, and is being heavily manured for a crop of Veitch’s Autumn Giant 
Cauliflower and the Self-protecting Broccoli, both of which should be 
planted now. 
Plant out Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, Broccoli, and any kind of greens 
which are ready. Keep the Dutch hoe going amongst all growing crops, 
and give no quarter to weeds or spent and useless vegetables. Sow 
Radish and Mustard and Cress frequently, and clear off the remains of 
previous crops. Water newly put out plants if they require it, and do 
not stint them, as one good soaking is worth a dozen driblets. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —An acceptable change in the weather having at last set in 
growth in every department will now be rapid ; hence, great vigilance 
and perseverance will be needed to keep the daily routine well in 
hand. Every effort must be made, as nothing shows neglect so soon as 
healthy Vines under the flush of spring growth. 
Thinning. —Tedious as is the operation and the necessity of its being 
performed by careful painstaking hands, the work must not be allowed to 
give way to the most pressing demands in other departments. Early 
thinning of the berries is necessary to insure full support for those re¬ 
tained, thereby making sure of their swelling to a good size; and it is 
equally important that an early selection be made of the bunches that 
are to remain for the crop, removing all others, cropping lightly, 
as what is lost in number of bunches will be counterbalanced by the 
size of berry and the superior finish of the crop. Thin the berries in all 
cases freely, and seek to obtain medium-sized bunches well formed in 
preference to large loose bunches which rarely finish satisfactorily. 
For hanging through the winter the berries should be more severely 
thinned, and handsome medium-sized bunches selected for the crop. 
Vines in Flower .—Any shy-setting varieties should be gone over with a 
pamel’s-hair brush, and if there be a deficiency of pollen it should be taken 
from Hamburghs and applied to those having little or none. Maintain a 
rather dry and warm atmosphere with a gentle circulation of air con¬ 
stantly, and be careful to avoid sudden depressions of temperature, 
especially after the heat has risen considerably, increasing the ventilation 
early with the rising temperatur *, keeping it through the day at 70° to 75° 
artificially, and 80° to 85° from sun heat, closing early and allow the 
temperature to fall to 65° at night. For Hamburghs and other cool 
varieties 5° to 10° les3 all round will be sufficient. 
Stopping and Tying .—After stopping two or three joints beyond the 
show of fruit, the laterals may be allowed to extend until the trellis is 
evenly covered with foliage, and continue to lay in as long as there is 
room for its full development without crowding, being careful not to 
encourage growth which is likely to interfere with the principal foliage 
and necessitate its removal in quantity at a later period, as that would 
cause a serious check to the root-action, and may induce shanking. The 
shoots should be regularly attended to in tying, as when allowed to reach 
the glass they are liable to have moisture condensed on them, and to 
become scorched. 
Watering .—Make an examination of the border at least fortnightly, 
and if water is needed afford a thorough supply in a tepid state. If 
weakly or carrying full crops afford liquid manure, and top-dress in accord¬ 
ance with the requirements of the Vines. If the borders are poor a good 
mulching with cowdung will be of great service, especially if kept moist, 
so as to encourage the roots to become active in it; but Vines that are 
young and full of vigour a moderate covering of short hcrsedung will be 
found most suitable. 
Grapes Stoning .—Do not hurry the Vines through this process, but 
keep them cool and steady, 60° to 65° at night being sufficient, as it is 
better to let the roots get in advance of the supply of nutriment than 
throw a strain upon them at the most trying period, which, under any 
circumstances, is an exhausting process, and requires time. 
Houses of Ripe Grapes .—Keep these cooler, 60° artificially is ample, 
and afford a circulation of fresh air, with sufficient moisture in the atmo¬ 
sphere to keep the foliage in good condition and free from insects. 
Examine the borders, and if sufficiently moist cover with some dry non¬ 
conducting material to prevent evaporation, but if water is needed afford 
it thoroughly in the early part of a likely fine day, and cover with the dry 
mulching before closing. It must be borne in mind that Vines carrying 
ripe Grapes in June and July will not only bear, but absolutely require, 
more moisture than they do in autumn to meet the increased evaporation 
consequent on the greater amount of sun heat. 
Lifted Vines .—Look well after Vines, especially old ones that were 
lifted last autumn, also newly planted young Vines, encouraging new root3 
to make their way ti the surface by the use of good stable litter kept 
moist as a mulching. Afford generous treatment to the tops, encouraging 
free growth by closing early in the afternoon with plenty of sun heat 
and atmospheric moisture. Avoid a high temperature, especially at night, 
not exceeding 60° until the roots have taken freely to the soil. Disbud 
lightly, as the more growth is made the freer the root-action. Stop side 
shoots at about the sixth leaf, and afterwards allow the laterals to extend, 
but the laterals from the two lowest joints stop at the first leaf so as to 
secure plump eyes for pruning to. On the main or leading shoot stop the 
laterals at the first joint, and afterwards allow them to extend as far as 
space admits without crowding. 
Vine borders may now be planted with spring-struck Vines, and with 
proper encouragement they will fill the hou?e with fine canes by the 
autumn. 
Give more aid to the early potted Vines intended for fruiting early- 
next season, and keep the foliage clean by syringing, as everything 
depends on getting the wood well ripened and the eyes thoroughly 
developed. 
Melons. —Earth up the hillocks in succession houses, pits, and frames 
as the roots protrude, continuing this until the allotted space is filled. Do 
not allow the plants to suffer by want of water at the roots, yet do not 
give it in excess. Plants swelling their fruit will need liberal supplies, and 
they may be followed when a sti mulant is needed with tepid liquid manure. 
Plants coming into flower must have free ventilation during the day, the 
syringe being withheld until they have set their fruit, after which it must 
be brought into requisition again. The shoots of young plants which are 
covering the surface of the bed in pits or frames should be thinned to 
three or four leading growths, and these must be stopped as soon as they 
have travelled two-thirds their allotted space. This will cause secondary 
or side shoots to be produced showing fruit at the second or third 
joint, and as the blossoms expand a rather drier atmosphere should be 
maintained, and when the flowers expand they should be impregnated 
when the pollen iB dry. Three or four fruits to each plant, according to 
their vigour, will be sufficient for a crop, which it should be sought to obtain 
of an equal stage of growth so as to insure simultaneous swelling. Stop 
one joint beyond the fruit, and keep the foliage fairly thin so as to main¬ 
tain the principal leaves in good condition. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Ferns .—To have Adiantum cuneatum in good condition for cutting- 
the plants must not be grown in a close atmosphere, or the fronds fade 
almost directly they are removed from the plants. Those started in brisk 
heat early in the season will have pushed freely, and should now ba 
prepared for cutting in cooler temperatures. If the plants are gradually- 
hardened to this treatment they will not only solidify the fronds already- 
made, but they will continue producing them, which in their turn will be 
ready for cutting, and thus a succession of fronds will be maintained for 
