June 11, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
491 
very effective and commendable. Messrs. W. Richardson & Co., Darlington, 
exhibited a number of houses and frames, the former fitted with convenient 
lantern tops. Several good portable frames, the useful glass wall protectors, 
and examples of their approved modes of ventilating. Messrs. Ransome, 
Sims, & Jefferies, Ipswich, showed their new automaton lawn mowers. Mr. 
J. Matthews, Weston-super-Mare, showed samples of pots and ornamental 
vases, baskets,_&c. Messrs. Edgecumbe, Rendle, ifc Co., Victoria Street, have 
vases illustrating their well-known system of glazing, and Mr. B. Edgington, 
2, Duke Street, London Bridge, S.E., had a number of tents, marquees, ifeo. 
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KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Peas .—William I. is still one qf the earliest; we have it now in good 
condition. Ringleader, sown at the same time, will not be ready for a 
fortnight. The American Wonder is very early, but so dwarf that it 
gives no succession of gatherings. Kentish Invicta is some days later 
than the first-named above. We have ceased to regard Sunrise as an 
early Pea. Some rows we pinched the points from as soon as the flowers 
began to open have filled their pods a week before those which were allowed 
to grow. This pinching is decidedly of advantage in advancing early 
Peas, and it also assists the monster-podded sorts, such as Giant Marrow 
and John Bull, to fill their pods, and is usually practised with those that 
win prizes. Growers should note the varieties of early Peas which serve 
them best, mark down any great advantage or mistake they have expe¬ 
rienced, and be guided by this in coming springs. Second earlies must 
have attention. Take the points out of them if they are late, and give 
water freely in dry weather with a mixture of guano. Dissolve a handful 
of this in every 4 gallons of water, and the crop will be greatly benefited 
by it. Sow more seed of Omega, Sutton’s Latest of All, or Ne Plus 
Ultra. 
Broccoli .—This is nearly over, but it has been a good Broccoli season. 
Of late we have only been cutting one sort; this is Sutton’s Late Queen, 
which is valuable. The first of the heads began to appear about the end 
of April, and we have them turning in still. They are compact, white, 
and of the finest quality. Plants still remaining in their quarters may be 
lifted with good balls of soil and be put into any out-of-the-way corner 
until the heads are cut. This will allow their quarter to be used for 
another crop. 
Planting Out .—We will not stop this work now until the whole of 
our Winter Greens are out. Brussels Sprouts, if not planted until now, 
will not gain any great size ; they require a long season. The planting of 
Savoys for autumn and winter use should be completed at once. Gilbert’s 
New Universal variety is being grown largely this season. Many of the 
Broccoli and all the Cauliflowers have been planted. Those which were 
dibbled in a few inches apart some weeks ago were lifted and planted 
with a trowel, but those growing close together were drawn up and planted 
with a dibble. We dip all the roots in a paint-like mixture of earth and 
soot, and find it a capital grub-antidote and a fertiliser as well. Lettuce 
are being put out in large quantities. By planting some in a south and 
others in a north aspect, we get a long succession without frequent or 
extra sowings. The Leeks have all been put out. A few spring Onions 
have been pulled up and put into blanks. They transplant very well, and 
so do Parsnips. Beetroot and Salsafy may also be transplanted into 
blanks which have occurred. This work should all be done, if possible, 
when it rains, as the plants then grow freely. 
Endure .—Sow a pinch of the Broad-leaved Batavian. It is a superb 
sort. A row about 2 yards in length will furnish many plants, and 
unless early salads are wanted sowing may be deferred for a time. Early 
plants are almost sure to run to flower prematurely, and this is why we do 
not sow extensively until the end of July or August. 
Broad Beans .—Sow more of these. They cannot have too strong 
soil. Pinch the points off those in full bloom. The crop will come 
earlier and be all the better for it. We never allow any of our Broad 
Beans to go higher than 2 feet. Where very large pods for exhibition are 
desired water very freely with strong liquid manure. 
Tomatoes .—The whole of these may now be planted out. Give them 
the warmest position available. Take up one or two leading shoots from 
those planted some time ago. Pinch off all side growths and a good crop 
of fruit is sure to form. Plants which have been fruiting freely under 
glass and now exhausted had better be replaced with young ones. If 
young plants are scarce take cuttings from the old, and they will be 
rooted and ready for planting in a fortnight. 
Weeds .—These are now very troublesome, and require much attention 
to keep them down. The hoe is the gardener’s friend, but it is of no use 
in wet weather, and then in particular an effort should be made to hand- 
weed, especially in the case of weeds which are likely soon to flower. Many 
are very particular in having their gardens clean and free from weeds at 
planting time, but they neglect them afterwards, and this is a great mistake, 
as it is now they injure the crops and perpetuate their obnoxious stock. 
Kidney Beans .— Our first-sown Canadians had some cold weather to 
contend with, and at present they are quite yellow in the foliage and 
later than another lot sown ten dayR afterwards. We think of pulling up 
the first and sowing more, as the second lot will give us an early supply 
and we have never found it profitable to allow an inferior crop to go on 
and take up the ground during the best part of the season. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Early House .—As soon as the crop is cut the inside borders 
should receive a thorough supply of tepid liquid manure, and the Vines 
should be syringed in the afternoon until the foliage is free from dust or 
insects, an occasional syringing being all that is afterwards required to 
keep it clean and healthy. The ventilators may remain constantly open. 
When the Vines make fresh laterals an even growth should be encouraged 
oyer every part of the house by pinching out the points of those that show 
signs of becoming too gross, and so depriving the weak parts of the food 
necessary for the proper support of the buds that are to give next year’s 
crop of Grapes. The growths should be prevented from interfering with 
the principal leaves, as these are essential for the proper development of 
the buds at their base. 
Late-Tteeping Grapes .—By this time all these should be set, and as 
they swell rapidly at this season thinning must be completed without 
delay. Choose medium-sized and taperiDg bunches in preference to those 
with shoulders for hanging through the winter, and thin out the berries 
with a liberal hand. Continue to allow a judicious extension of the 
laterals as far as space admits, and see that there is no deficiency of 
moisture in the borders, which, as the demands of the foliage will now be 
considerable, must be kept thoroughly moist, and the roots active by a 
surface dressing of good short manure kept moist by frequent dampings ; 
but these last must not take the place of waterings, which should be given 
thoroughly whenever required. Clear tepid water passing through a 
mulching of short manure will be sufficient for vigorous Vines not carrying 
heavy crops, but those showing signs of enfeeblement or carrying 
full crops should have some nourishing food—liquid manure in a tepid 
state. 
Grapes Scalding .—Lady Downe’s and some others that are liable to 
scald when passing through the stoning process must be closely watched 
until the danger is past, which is usually the case after the Grapes change 
colour. Although sudden outbursts of sunshine with the sun acting 
directly on the berries may accelerate the disaster, yet it is not the cause, 
as we see scalding when the berries are shaded by the foliage. The chief 
cause is a deficiency of ventilation, especially in the early part of the 
day, so as to have the surface of the Grapes dry before the sun acts 
powerfully upon the house. The best preventive is to keep the house 
rather warm by night with sufficient ventilation to insure a circulation of 
air and prevent the deposition of moisture on the berries during the 
night, then ventilate freely early in the morning. 
Young Vines for Early Bruiting Next Season .—These would be 
started early, and ought to have filled the trellis with laterals, and 
should now to be kept cooler and somewhat drier, especially at night. 
Ventilate freely through the early part of the day, and close with sun 
heat early in the afternoon, and before nightfall admit a little air. If 
growing in inside borders, as they ought for early forcing, see that they 
are well mulched and thoroughly watered as a means of keeping the 
roots active near the surface, and prevent them striking down in quest of 
moisture. Young Vines in pots intended for a similar purpose will require 
similar treatment so soon a3 the young canes begin to change colour for 
ripening. 
Figs. —The fruit from small trees is poor as compared with that from 
trees established in large pots—viz,, No. 1 or 18-inch. They then bear 
abundantly and over a lengthened period, or from the close of April to early 
June fruit maybe gathered successionally, whilst trees in smaller sized 
pots do not give a great quantity, and the season is soon over. The 
second crop will be considerably advanced when the first is over, as it 
will by this time, when the trees should have a thorough cleansing, a 
syringe answering better than the garden engine, as every part of the 
foliage can be brought under the action of the water. 
Succession Houses .—The directions given for the early house from 
time to time will apply to these now, with the difference that as the days 
are longer the heat and moisture may be increased ; and as the season 
advances attend to tying and stopping, carefully guarding against laying 
in too much wood, encouraging no more than can have full exposure to 
light and air, which are essential in securing short-jointed fruitful wood 
and fruit of high colour and quality. Inside borders will require water¬ 
ing at frequent intervals, as the borders being properly constructed there 
is no fear of overwatering, and the mulching must be kept constantly 
moist to cause and keep a plentiful supply of feeders in activity near the 
surface. Ventilate all Fig houses freely through the early part of the 
day, as there is nothing like early ventilation for securing firm short- 
jointed growth, and close early so that the temperature may rise to 90° or 
95°, admitting a little air about 6 p.m., and under favourable circumstances 
there will be little, if, indeed, any need of artificial heat at this time of 
the year, except in the case of fruit ripening in a dull cold period, when 
gentle heat will be necessary to ensure a circulation constantly of rather 
dry warm air. Early closing means health to the trees and the saving 
of fuel, as late closing necessitates fire heat to prevent the temperature 
falling too low through the night. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Allamandas .—For the present these should be grown fully exposed to 
light and sunshine, as if shaded their shoots lengthen some distance 
before they show signs of flowering. Any shoots that display this ten¬ 
dency must be pinched back, and they will soon break into growth again 
and show flowers. If the plants are trained upon a balloon or other 
trellis the shoots should not be tied down closely, but le't until the whole 
