January 3, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
17 
these and replant with new Vines. Advantage is taken of the absence of 
Vines to grow Pelargoniums and similar plants for producing cut flowers, 
which are largely in demand. A large collection of Azaleas, white prin¬ 
cipally, grown for affording cut flowers, occupy the greenhouse. The 
large stove contains many hundreds of small Palms, Orchids, Ferns, and 
foliage plants, such as Dieftenbachia Bausei, Dracaenas in vars., Crotons, 
Pandanus, Acalyphas, Caladiums, &c., for furnishing purposes. Two small 
span-roof houses are devoted to growing a number of young Palms and 
similar plants for same purpose; also a large quantity of Eucharias, 
Gardenias, and Stephanotis for supplying cut flowers. Adjacent to the 
gardener’s house—a commodious residence—is a large house devoted 
exclusively to growing many hundreds of Adiantum cuneatum in pots for 
supplying fronds for decorative purposes, all in excellent health, and several 
heated pits for the same class of plants. In conclusion, Mr. Fox is to be 
congratulated on the excellent order and arrangement of the several 
departments under his charge.—T. W. Sanders. 
THE ORCHARD. 
BARREN FRUIT TREES, AND HOW TO MAKE THEM FRUITFUL. 
There are many causes to which the sterility of fruit trees in 
hundreds of orchards in this country may be ascribed. Not the least 
of these is the result of annual neglect—that is to say, that brought 
about by leaving the trees year after year to take care of themselves, by 
failing to make a timely and judicious use of the pruning saw and 
pruning shears; consequently the overcrowding of tree and branch, 
excluding sufficient light and air from the branches, prevents to a great 
extent the formation and development of fruit buds, and encourages the 
growth of lichens and moss. The operator, being provided with a good 
pruning saw, pruning shears, and ladders, should begin the work of 
amputation by cutting out all the cross and ill-placed branches, so as to 
let plenty of light and air among those left to form the tree, and which, 
almost needless to say, should be those best furnished with fruit buds 
and indicating most vigour and health. The upright ones of these 
should, if necessary, be shortened with the shears. The thinning and 
shortening of the branches having been completed, the prunings, which 
in magnit ude will in many cases he equal to that of the trees whence 
they were taken, should be faggotted and then removed to the faggot 
yard. The moss should then be scraped off the trees with a piece of 
hoop iron or lath, the trunks and principal branches being afterwards 
scrubbed with an old besom. 
This being done, a cartload of quicklime, more or less according to 
the number of trees to be operated on, should be taken to the centre of 
the orchard and dissolved in a large tub or iron tank, adding thereto a 
small per-centage of new dry soot. The liquid, having been well stirred, 
should then be strained through a fine sieve into the garden engine, and, 
choosing a calm day for the operation, be applied forthwith to the 
lichen-infested branches from every side of the tree, so that they may be 
completely smeared with the solution. This simple and effectual remedy 
will speedily destroy the lichens, consequently the trees will become 
vigorous and fruitful. 
The next step that should be taken with a further view of promoting 
fertility is the laying on between the trees a good surface dressing of 
whatever fertilising agent can be spared for that purpose. Failing a 
better one, decomposed vegetable matter will contribute to the object in 
view, and the substance of which by the agency of the worms will reach 
the roots in due time. Furthermore, if a trench about 3 feet deep and 
2 feet wide be opened at from 3 to 5 feet (according to the size of the 
tree to be operated on) from the bole, the roots in that space being cut 
clean away in the process of excavating the soil, the latter with the 
addition of some richer soil being afterwards replaced in the trench, the 
result will be such as not only to compensate for the labour involved in 
the operation, but also to justify an extension of its application in the 
same direction afterwards—that is, to trees which fail to yield satisfac¬ 
tory crops during favourable seasons.—H. W. Ward, Longford Castle, 
Wilts. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
With the advent of the new year many who have done little or 
nothing in their kitchen gardens during the past two months will now 
bestir themselves and prepare for getting in the crops in spring on the 
first favourable opportunity. To do this with advantage the soil and 
everything should always be in readiness beforehand, and this should 
be the main work just now in vegetable gardens. Throughout January 
none can make any mistake by manuring, digging, or trenching all 
empty quarters. Many autumn and winter vegetables, such as Spinach, 
Broccoli, and Savoys, are now over, and the sooner the remains of them 
are cleared off and the ground turned up to the weather the better. 
Every foot of ground now is ready for the reception of the spring crops, 
and we have found so many advantages from being thus prepared at 
sowing and planting time that we would advise all of our readers to try 
the system. 
Forcing Vegetables. —Plenty of choice vegetables will now be pro¬ 
duced, and the great point is to maintain a regular supply after the first 
have been sent to the table. This is easily done by putting in suc- 
cessional batches of roots or seeds in suitable quantities, and at intervals 
according to the demand. Those who have not had the means to begin 
forcing in autumn may do so now with the assurance that they will find 
it quite easy if the instructions given in previous numbers are followed. 
Tomatoes. —These may also be sown now, placing half a dozen seeds 
in a 3-inch pot, which has been previously filled with a light mixture 
of loam, leaf soil, and sand. The pots need not be plunged, as the seed 
will germinate freely and the young plants grow well in a temperature 
of 70°. 
Potatoes. —Where hotbeds have been made up a week or two ago the 
tubers may now be planted. The soil in which they are placed should 
be rather rich, and 1 foot from set to set and 18 inches from row to row 
will he a suitable distance. In planting do not break off any strong 
growths which may be formed, and as these will soon appear above the 
soil more protection than the glass light muse be given when frost occurs. 
Radish. —A little seed may be sown in any corner of the hotbeds, 
and a patch may also be put in in a sheltered corner at the bottom of a 
south wall, or in a cold frame or under a handlight. 
Rhubarb and Seahale. —These may now be covered with the pots 
made for this purpose, and if a quantity of leaves and littery manure 
mixed together is placed over these so as to create a gentle heat the 
crowns will soon be induced to start into growth, and much fine produce 
may be secured in this way during the spring. 
Seed Lists. —These are coming in, and their contents will no doubt 
be usefully discussed in the pages of the Journal, and the characters of 
the different varieties of vegetables estimated for the benefit of the 
nexp erienced. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Cucumbers.— Plants in Houses. —Take advantage of every opportunity 
to make the most of the little sun we are as a rule favoured with at this 
season, giving a little ventilation if the weather he mild in the early part 
of the day, and close early in the afternoon, or shortly after noon, damping 
the house at the same time with tepid liquid manure. On fine mornings 
the pathways should he damped and the plants lightly syringed overhead, 
which will to some extent assist in keeping down red spider that is often 
troublesome where sharp firing has to be resorted to to keep up the 
required temperature. Weak tepid liquid manur e may be given to plants 
which are making free growth, but should the plants show any signs of 
not growing tepid water only should he applied until the growth becomes 
free. To encourage surface roots a top-dressing should be given of turfy 
loam in a lumpy state and a fou r th of horse droppings, having it previously 
warmed to the same temperature as that of the house. Maintain the night 
temperature at 65° or a few degrees higher in mild weather, 70° to 75° by 
day, and 85° to 90° with sun heat, keeping the bottom heat steady at 80°. 
Plants for the early spring supply of fruit should now he prepared, sowing 
the seeds singly in 3-inch pots half filled with soil, so as to leave space for 
top-dressing when required, plunging the pots near the glass in a brisk 
bottom heat. Seed for raising plants for growing in pits or frames heated 
by fermenting materials should now be sown, for particulars of which see 
Melons. Taking free-hearing and constitution into consideration Tele¬ 
graph is still unrivalled. 
Melons.— From seed sown now plants can he raised to afford ripe fruit 
late in April or early in May in light well-heated houses. Sow the seeds 
singly in 3-inch pots, leaving room in the pots for top-dressing, and plunge 
the pots in a bottom heat of 80° to 90° near the glass. As soon as the 
plants have unfolded the first leaves top-dress them, keeping them as close 
as possible to the glass without touching so as to prevent a weakly growth. 
As to varieties tastes differ, but Scarlet Premier and High Cross Hybrid are 
capital varieties. 
Mailing Hotbeds. —Fermenting material composed of Oak or Beech 
leaves two parts, to one of stable litter well mixed and thrown into a heap, 
turned over twice and damped as advised in our last calendar, will now he 
ready for making up. The most suitable site is a dry one, and in front of 
a wall or hedge to the north, so as to break the winds from that quarter, 
and it is well if there he a similar protection to the east and west. The 
site should he dry, or if not it should be made so by a layer of faggots. 
The bed should be so formed that it will have about 6 inches of space to 
spare all round the frame. In making the bed put the materials as evenly 
together as practicable, and beat them down as the work proceeds. The 
bed should be made one-third higher than the intended height to allow 
for settling, and this will need to be about 6 feet high at the back and a 
foot less in front. The bed will have settled down in about a week, when 
level the surface of the bed, return the frame, and put in sufficient fer¬ 
menting material to make the depth at the back of the frame correspond 
with the front, and over this 4 to 6 inches of sawdust or similar material 
for plunging the pots in, or pot3 or cuttings, &c. It is well to have the 
frame with a cavity inside, which may be made by nailing some laths an 
inch wide inside vertical to the frame, and 6 inches less than its depth, 
nailing some half-inch boards to these so as to form the cavity. This will 
allow of the plants having the benefit of top heat from the linings after 
that from the bed is declining. 
Cherry House. —When the trees are fairly growing let the day tempera¬ 
ture he kept at 50° to 55°, and if the days he bright air should be admitted, 
but only to the extent of keeping the temperature from rising above 65°, 
keeping it from sun heat at 60° to G5°, admitting a little ventilation in the 
