24 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 10,1884. 
and trained into position, and about the month of March 
should have another shift, this time into 16-inch pots. The 
plants should he allowed to grow on naturally, and by 
the autumn we shall have healthy, vigorous, well-coloured 
half-specimen plants. It may now be advisable to give the 
plants a top-dressing of rich soil to assist them through the 
winter, and in the following spring they should have what I 
shall term their “ final shift ” —viz., into 18-inch pots, and if 
the plants have been grown on without a check by July or 
August they will be 6 feet to 7 feet high and 5 feet through, 
and ready to take their place in the exhibition. This process 
will take about two and a half years. 
I have chosen the broad-leaved varieties for my examples, 
as they are more difficult to grow into large specimens than 
many of the narrow-leaved varieties; but, if treated in the 
way indicated, they make specimens in much less time than 
the narrow-leaved forms, such as Warreni and interruptus 
aureus. These should have the same treatment generally, 
but they will not require potting so soon in succession, nor 
will they want pinching, as they branch freely and make 
more handsome plants if allowed to grow naturally. 
Having said so much on large specimens, I will now offer 
a few remarks on medium-size plants. Let us suppose, then, 
that we have healthy plants in 4-inch pots, as in our first 
example, and the season is the month of February; they 
should be potted first into 6-inch pots, and when these are 
moderately filled with roots, say in six or eight weeks, the 
plants should have their final shift—-viz., into 9-inch pots. 
The principal object in giving them their final shift while yet 
small plants being to induce them to make plenty of roots 
in advance of growth, which will consequently be free and 
vigorous. They may then be allowed to grow naturally, or 
may have all side shoots removed as they appear, and simply 
grown on single stems as columns. Crotons grown in this 
latter style are, in my opinion, more thoroughly effective and 
elegant, as well as generally useful, than when grown in any 
other shape, and most of the varieties may be grown in this 
style, although some are better adapted for it than others. 
Such sorts as Warreni, Princess of Wales, Prince of Wales, 
Johannis, Sinitzianus, Anietumensis, and Rodeckianus of 
the long narrow-leaf section, and Evansianus, Baroness 
James de Rothschild, Morti, Baclii, and Variegatus elegans, 
of the broad-leaf section, make superb plants grown on this 
-system. I have had Warreni with leaves fully 2J feet long, 
and Baroness de Rothschild and Evansianus 6 feet high, 
without losing a leaf. 
For table plants the pots should not exceed 5J inches 
in diameter, and the narrow-leaved section are the most 
suitable. 
Crotons, like Stephanotes, Gardenias, and most other stove 
plants, are subject to that worst of all pests, mealy bug, as 
well as thrips and red spider ; and in coping with these I 
advise working, as far as possible, on the principle of “pre¬ 
vention better than cure.’’ Red spider may be kept down in 
a great measure by the free use of the syringe ; but more 
harm to the plants is to be apprehended from these insidious 
little insects than from thrips or mealy bug, as they some¬ 
times attack the young growth, checking the plant and 
causing the young leaves to fall off before we are aware of 
their presence. Hence the need for constant watchfulness. 
Red spider is easily destroyed by painting the hot-water pipes 
with sulphur and heating them very hot, but great care 
must be exercised when this remedy is resorted to, as, 
■although it is not injurious to Crotons, yet it is fatal to 
many delicate plants, particularly some Ferns, Adiantum 
farleyense for instance. 
On the least appearance of thrips the plants should be 
fumigated immediately, as these insects rapidly increase, 
and a stitch in time often saves nine. The fumigating 
should be done carefully two evenings in succession. Mealy 
bug is the worst pest to which Crotons are subject, and we 
all know of a dozen or more of so-called remedies, such 
as Gishurst compound, Abyssinian mixture, Fir tree 
oil, &c., but I am not acquainted with any remedy which is 
in every respect satisfactory. Paraffin oil, of which we 
heard a good deal, is no doubt a fairly good remedy if mixed 
with water in the proportion of an ordinary wineglassful 
to three gallons of water. This must be thoroughly mixed 
and kept well stirred while it is being syringed on to the 
plants. It should be allowed to remain on the plants ten 
minutes, and then syringed off with clean water. I recom¬ 
mend this remedy for large plants only, and where they 
cannot well be dispensed with, small plants should be 
sponged with clean water. — H. Ranger, Aigburth Nirseries , 
Liverpool.—(Read at the December meeting of the Liverpool 
Horticultural Association .) 
NOTES FROM A SCOTTISH GARDEN. 
A Mild Winter.—From all parts of our “north countrie’’ we 
hear of the unusual mildness of the present winter, mavises 
singing and spring flowers blooming as if it were the month 
of March instead of New Year’s day. In our garden it has 
been possible to cut a few Roses at any time, both Teas 
and H.P.’s. Mignonette is fresh and good, Schizostylis 
coccinea finer than it has been for several years, Salvia 
fulgens glowing, and Vesuvius Pelargoniums in vases covered 
with trusses — small, indeed, hut wonderful for the 1st of 
January. The Strawberry Trees aie now in full blossom, 
also the common tree Ivy, and the sweet Laurustinus has, 
after the lapse of several years, yielded a profusion of trusses 
which are now opening their flowefs. In the borders and on the 
rockery lberises, Primroses, &c., have met the late Asters, Yiolas, 
and Pentstemons Everywhere the spring flowers are moving. 
Sisyrinchiums are several inches above the soil, Crocuses, 
Daffodils and Snowdrops are peeping above ground, Doro- 
nicums are showing their buds, and in the frames the Auriculas 
and Polyanthuses are starting. Among the fruit trees the 
Black Currants are showing their light-green whitish buds very 
prominently. Raspberry buds are also swelling. 
Tillandsia Lindeni .—We have had a plant of the above in 
bloom for the past two months, and although in colour not 
so dark as those that are called the best varieties, its light 
blue and white flowers are very pretty. The plant in question 
produced a central spike which flowered first, and half a dozen 
side spikes w T kick are now flowering. The plant is blooming in 
the 4-inch pot in which it was struck from a cutting. 
Aphelandra aurantiaca .—This is another not commonly grown 
stove plant which flowers at this season. It is best propagated 
from seed which, sown as soon as ripe, and the young plants 
attended to, produce good strong flowering plants the following 
winter. They do veil in 4-inch pots, and may be grown in 
turfy loam. 
Eucharis amazonica .— Is there any necessity for resting 
Eucharises ? With an abundant supply of heat at command 
we have kept the plants growing freely, and we are never 
without flowers ; not, of course, a great number at one time, 
for that is not required for home use, but a sufficient number 
for our needs. 
Pancratium speciosum .—With this lovely plant we are adopting 
the same mode of culture. It seems as if it could enjoy any 
amount of heat all the year round. With plenty of heat to 
keep root growth active, the present is a good time to repot 
this Pancratium, which does well in turfy loam with good 
drainage to the pot. 
Carnations .—There are some flowers which a gardener can 
hardly produce in too great a quantity, and amongst these are 
Carnations. Miss Joliffe is the beau ideal as to habit and 
floriferousness of what a good winter-flowering Carnation 
ought to be; it is also a pleasing shade of light rose. An 
equally good white would be of great value. Will any of 
your correspondents be kind enough to name a white Carnation 
they have proved to be free-flowering throughout the winter 
months, and which produces cuttings freely for propagating at 
this time? We do not want the flowers large hut plenty of 
them. 
Late and Useful Chrysanthemums .—The Chrysanthemum season 
has been a very good one and the bloom prolonged. Fair Maid 
of Guernsey we have still in quantity, and late-struck plants of 
Ethel are not yet in flower. This variety requires a little heat 
now. Fair Maid has been the best white of the season, both the 
flowers from side growths and the terminal ones being good. 
Unlike Elaine, which turns pinkish with age, this variety retains 
its purity for a long time. Lady Selborne, about which I sent a 
note last year, has also the same good property. We cut the last 
