January 10, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
31 
WOKKJoiithe WEEK.. C 
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HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Birds and Buds .—Look to trees and bushes at once, and do all that 
is possible to keep off bullfinches and sparrows. In Christmas week we 
found pieces of buds scattered thickly under a May Duke Cherry tree 
which had suffered severely. Other Cherries and Plums had also been 
attacked by these troublesome birds. Gooseberries, too, had suffered 
slightly ; as a temporary check as many trees as possible were imme¬ 
diately syringed with thin whitewash, and netting placed over all the 
bushes. Wire netting of sufficiently fine mesh to exclude small birds is 
decidedly best for bush-protection, and if kept permanently over them 
harm to bud or fruit could never happen. That this plan is desirable is 
proved by our own case. We had not lost a Gooseberry bud for eleven 
years, and had no thought of protection at this season of the year, but last 
year the bullfinches came in such numbers and with such persistency in 
spite of shooting that the crop suffered severely. 
Planting and Training Raspberries .—In soil that is naturally suitable 
for fruit culture Raspberry culture resolves itself into careful planting, 
pruning, and training, and subsequently as the beds become old to sur¬ 
face dressings of manure ; but in poor thin soil preparation must be 
made for each row by excavating trenches 3 feet wide and 18 inches 
deep, discarding the whole of the subsoil and filling the trench with a 
very rich compost of two-thirds of decayed vegetable matter or hotbed 
manure mixed with soil taken from the surface and laid aside as the 
trench is made. That this is necessary we have learnt to our cost, for we 
first tried trenching-in a heavy dressing of manure in a poor soil, but 
the Raspberries never answered well, and we were obliged by dire 
necessity to resort to the trenches, which we did with complete success. 
At the planting each cane was shortened to 18 inches, and they were 
planted a foot apart along the centre of each trench, the rows being 
5 feet apart, if space admits of it 6 feet apart is better. The 2 or 3 feet 
of poor soil between the trenches must be enriched the second winter 
after the planting precisely as if it were for another trench ; the subsoil 
being taken away and the soil mixed with old manure. For training, a 
couple of wires, one 2 feet from the ground and the other 4 feet, strained 
to posts at each end of the row answer perfectly, the canes being tied to 
them erect, and cut off at 6 inches above the top wire. This height— 
4 feet G inches—we have found sufficient, the canes being laden with fruit 
from top to bottom. Higher canes throw so much shade that the lower 
part of the row has little or no fruit. We mention this matter because 
of the temptation to leave very strong growths longer than we advise, 
and it is not uncommon to see huge canes of 10 to 12 feet high before 
pruning. 
Planting Fruit Trees .—Trenching land for fruit plantations is highly 
commendable, and it may be done now in any open weather. First do 
all necessary drainage, then trench two spits deep, breaking up the 
subsoil thoroughly, but simply turn the soil over upon it and bring 
no subsoil to the surface. The brick earth of North Kent so treated 
answers admirably for fruit culture. Planting follows the trenching 
in a fortnight or three weeks, but in cases of urgency we should not 
hesitate to plant immediately after the trenching, taking care sub¬ 
sequently to see that none of the trees become suspended upon the 
stakes, or the roots exposed or loosened in the soil as it settles. To 
do this thoroughly, examine the trees a month after planting, and again 
just before growth begins in spring. If the roots of newly planted trees 
are not closely embedded in the soil they will not grow ; if they are left 
unfastened and become blown to and fro by the wind, or the soil about 
the roots becomes dry, the growth will be weakly and worthless, therefore 
stake and mulch at the time of planting. Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, 
Quinces, and Medlars are planted 20 feet apart if they are to become 
large standards or unpruned bushes, and there are three rows of Goose¬ 
berry or Currant bushes put between them and retained till crowded out 
by the trees. If closely pruned bush or pyramidal trees or Filberts are 
required, then 10 feet apart is sufficient, with one row of bush fruit 
between. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Vines. — Early-fruiting Vines in Pots .—Keep the house rather drier 
and warmer as the bunches come into flower. If the Vines are in 
a fermenting bed see that the heat does not decline, keeping it steady 
about the pots at 75°, encouraging the roots to find their way into the 
fermenting material or surrounding compost by applying weak tepid 
liquid manure. Tie down and stop young growth according to the space 
at command, and afterwards follow the extension system until the whole 
of the trellis is covered with foliage. 
Early Vines .—When the buds on the Vines which have been suspended 
over fermenting materials have pushed freely from the rods these should 
be secured to the trellis. Disbudding must be performed by degrees, and 
see that the shoots are tied down before they touch the glass. Do not 
stop the laterals until sufficient growth has been obtained to secure an 
oven supply of foliage all over the house, being careful, however, to 
prevent overcrowding, as it is important the principal foliage have full 
exposure to light and air. As the bunches draw out the temperature 
should be kept a little warmer, or 60° to 65° at night, with an increase of 
5° to 10° by day ; also keep the atmosphere a little drier, which has a 
tendency to prevent the bunches running into tendrils, as is sometimes 
the case when the wood of the Vines is badly ripened or the roots are in 
cold outside borders. If fermenting materials are used on outside borders 
the heat must not be allowed to decline, but by turning and adding fresh 
keep the temperature steady at 80° to 85°. The fermenting materials in 
the house should also be added to as occasion requires, replenishing with 
sweetened material, and with a gentle heat active feeding roots will 
be drawn up into the top-dressing of turf and crushed bones laid on in 
the autumn. Ventilate on all favourable occasions, being careful to 
avoid cold draughts and sudden depressions of temperature. 
Succession Houses .—Where it is intended to have ripe Grapes early in 
June there must be no further delay in starting the Vines. All prepara¬ 
tory matters having been attended to, the inside borders must be given 
sufficient water at, a temperature of 90° to bring the soil into a moist 
condition. A good bed of fermenting materials—Oak leaves and dung 
from the reserve heap made up inside the house—will help the Vines to 
break strongly and evenly. Strong young Vines when forced for the 
first time do not break regularly, and should be drawn down to a 
horizontal position until all the buds are fairly moving. Syringe the rods 
occasionally, doing so, however, sufficiently early in the afternoon to 
allow them to become dry before night. The temperature should range 
from 50° to 55° at night and by artificial means in the daytime, with an 
advance from sun heat to 60° or 65°. 
Raising Vines from Eyes .—Select thoroughly ripened wood of medium 
strength for eyes, having them made and inserted in pots or sods without 
delay if intended for fruiting canes, placing in a bottom heat of 70° to 
75°, and when growth takes place keep them near the glass, as it is 
important the wood be thoroughly solidified as made. Byes intended to 
raise Vines for cutting back or planting need not be inserted or placed in 
heat until the middle of February. 
Figs- —Early Trees inPots .—Assuming that well-ripened established 
trees were dressed and placed on brick pedestals with a body of fer¬ 
menting Oak leaves placed round them, and the house closed early in 
December with a temperature of 50° at night and 55° by day, advancing 
5° to 10° more from sun heat, the young fruit is now swelling, and the 
buds pushing into growth. The night temperature should be raised to 
55°, with an increase of 10° to 15° by day from sun heat. Syringe twice 
a day, but always early in the afternoon, damping the floors well in the 
evening. Be careful not to have the bottom heat more than 70°. The 
roots will soon find their way into the fermenting material, and there do 
good service. Strive to secure short-jointed growth by admitting a little 
ventilation at the top of the house daily, giving sufficient fire heat to 
accomplish this at 65°, allowing the temperature to rise to 75° or a little 
more under bright sun, and close early in the afternoon, or between one 
and two o’clock. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
The Conservatory. —This house should he kept perfectly clean, for 
in any other condition it cannot he thoroughly enjoyed. It is wise to 
occasionally wash the glass, woodwork, and stages with warm water in 
which has been stirred a little soft soap. In many gardens at this 
season of the year flowers are scarce, but this need not be the case if 
previous directions have been attended to and care and judgment 
exercised in retarding or pushing forward plants that are in a backward 
state or coming forward too early. A good hatch of dwarf Poinsettias 
should he grown in every garden where this structure has to be kept 
gay at the present time, as they take the place of scarlet Pelargoniums. 
Euphorbias are also useful and stand well so does Centropogon Lucyanus. 
These associated freely and rising above Primulas, Cyclamens, Solanums, 
Hvacinths, Tulips, Cinerarias, Heaths, Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and 
others, have a charming appearance. Epacrises at this season of the 
year, with their long slender stems of various-coloured flowers, stand 
well above dwarf plants. There is abundance of flowers now that will 
enable those who take a pride in their conservatories to make some of 
the most telling and effective arrangements possible at any season. 
Tulips .—The early kinds that were placed thickly together in pans 
and boxes in August last as advised, and are now being forced, should, 
as they show the colour of their flowers, be lifted out. Early in the 
season if these bulbs are placed in pots and forced they often flower 
irregularly. By placing them in boxes those that show their flowers can 
be taken out and a number placed in 4, 5, or 6-inch pots, according to 
the size required, and thus even specimens are produced by a very 
simple system. The bulbs that are replanted should be kept well watered, 
and they will be found to last nearly as long as if they had been allowed 
to flower in the boxes without being disturbed. The single crowns of 
Lily of the Valley early in the season are treated in the same way, by 
which system only can full and regular pots of bloom be produced. 
This, if forced out in strong heat, must be gradually hardened before it 
is either cut or taken to the conservatory, and it will be found the 
sprays of bloom will last nearly double the length of time than if cut 
from a close frame or warm house. 
Calanthes .—These beautiful Orchids are not used half so much in 
gardens for conservatories as they deserve to be. If the night tem¬ 
perature of the house can he kept on an average at 50° they will stand 
well when half developed and open the remainder of their flowers. If 
these plants when in flower are kept in a temperature 10° or 15° higher 
they will not last half so long. The flowers along their stem open 
quickly and are soon done, but this is not the case in the position 
we advise for them. Their deciduous character is a very great 
recommendation to them, because when grown in 5 and 6-inch pots for 
this purpose the pots can he hidden, and their long arching spikes of 
