32 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 10 1884. 
flowers stand above other plants, and are thus shown to the greatest 
advantage. So many Calanthes of sorts cannot be grown where the 
conservatory has to be kept attractive during the winter months. 
1 
GhL - 
HE BEE-KEEPER. 
=Tvn 
H---I '• I - t. n 
NOTES ON BEES-PRACTICAL MANAGEMENT. 
(Continued from page 520.) 
Timid Bee-keepers.— Some bee-keepers are very much averse to 
opening hives oftener than they are compelled, on the principle that 
too much meddling is harmful ; others, again, avoid interference with 
their bees because they are timid and cannot go about the task in that 
cool and quiet manner which is so requisite ; in consequence it 
becomes to them a very disagreeable operation, and one to be avoided 
as much as possible. To advocate the S 3 ’Stem of spreading brood in 
spring with either of these classes of bee-keepers would be useless, as 
it requires frequent opening of the hive, and on this account would be 
highly objectionable to them. 
One thing, however, is absolutely necessary—nine of the combs 
must be removed in autumn, and after being carefully wrapped up to 
protect them from moths, &c., kept indoors in a dry place for future 
use. In April of the following year, or as soon as the hive becomes 
populous and is working well, it requires enlarging ; so if it is con¬ 
sidered objectionable to do this gradually by spreading the brood as 
before mentioned the whole of the combs may be returned at one 
operation, and with very little disturbance, by pushing the nine frames 
upon which the bees have wintered, dividers and all, to one end of the 
hive. I insert the other nine combs, cover with the wood quilt, &c., 
and when all is arranged remove the divider and close up the frames. 
If a little smoke is used when lifting out the divider not a bee need 
escape, and the most timid manipulator will suffer no annoyance. 
bECTiON Crates and Sdpering, &c. —The general management 
of our hive in summer will be pretty well understood by those who 
have read what has already been written in former papers, so we 
need not occupy much space in describing it. But the subject of 
supering is such an important one to the apiarian, involving as it does 
the surplus honey for which he labours, that advanced bee-keepers 
are constantly desiring schemes which will assist in securing every 
advantage during the short time the honey season lasts. 
We do not think the plan of storing section honey in the body of the 
hive will ever meet with favour from large producers, or be generally 
adopted. The objections to it are so many that it would take up too 
much space to enumerate them. Suffice it to say we have given it up, 
except for starting sections in early work and for completing unfinished 
ones in early autumn, and we find our opinion shared by all we have 
met with. 
The proper place for supers is over the brood nest, where the 
warmth of the hive ascends and assists the bees in comb-building, 
and we have devised a section crate which is of great use in enabling 
us to overcome the difficulty so often experienced in inducing bees to 
enter supers early in the season. It is an effort to combine the 
advantages of the open crate, for convenience of handling and re¬ 
moval, with the superiority of the close crate over the other in con¬ 
serving the heat at a time when this is so essential. All the sides are 
in two parts, hinged so that they can be let down when necessary. 
There is the usual half-inch space between the rows of sections, and 
three loose lids of half-inch stuff are used to cover frames and keep 
in the bees when the sections are not on. 
When supering is decided on give one row only of sections (keep¬ 
ing the spaces to be occupied by the other two rows later, covered b}^ 
the lids), and use no separators till the bees have taken possession and 
are working in the sections. If they enter at once it may be con¬ 
cluded that the hive is in good condition for supering, and the remain¬ 
ing two rows of sections should be given ; the lids are then laid on 
the top of the section, and (except in hot weather) the quilts cover 
all to keep everything warm and snug. We always use the long-hole 
excluder zinc when supering. 
For the timid and non-interfering bee-keeper already mentioned 
we need only say, Do not super till the first or second week in June 
unless the hive is very much crowded. Give the full crate of sections, 
and if honey is very abundant, a section crate may be set on along¬ 
side the first, as soon as combs are seen next the glass of those already 
on. When these combs are sealed over the whole crate may be 
removed for examination. If any of the sections are unfinished "they 
may be given back to (he bees to complete, or in a very good season 
the crate may be refilled and replaced on the hive. 
We in common with all apiarians who are much among bees over¬ 
haul our sections at intervals, and removing such as are finished give 
empty ones instead.—W. B. C., Higher Bebington, Cheshire. 
To our Readers and Correspondents. —In consequence of the space 
occupied by the index to the last volume the publication of many valuable 
articles and interesting communications have to be postponed. 
Rolling Lawns ( F. J.). —No strict rule can be laid down on this subject. 
Some lawns, where the soil is naturally hard and porous, cannot be effectively 
rolled except after rain, while others of a wet and spongy nature are best 
rolled when moderately dry. Usually it is best to roll after rain in summer, 
but not in winter, especially if there are numerous wormcasts, because these 
adhere to the roller and are then shaken off more or less, spoiling the appear¬ 
ance of the grass. In rolling lawns in winter we always take advantage of 
fine days when the grass and wormcasts are dry, or nearly so, and the 
surface is kept smooth and clean. 
Keeping Apples {Idem). —The fruit will keep quite as well on the 
uncovered shelves as on any soft material, provided it is handled carefully 
and placed in position gently to avoid even the slightest bruising. Much 
fruit is bruised by persons who have no idea of the fact at the time, because 
the injury is not visible at once ; it, however, soon developes, the fruit being 
spoiled in appearance and impaired in quality. Apples and Pears should be 
handled and moved much more carefully than eggs, as being far more liable 
to injury ; still, it is common to see the fruit poured out of baskets like so 
many Potatoes, while eggs are handled as if they were as tender as Apples. 
Spray-Diffusers {Idem). —If you cannot find what you want at a chemist’s 
or ironmonger’s you might write to any of the dealers in horticultural imple¬ 
ments who advertise in our columns or in the “ Gardeners’ Year-book,” 
which is now being issued. 
Staking Fruit Trees {D. Watts). —As a rule fruit trees ought to be 
secured to stakes as soon as planted, as they suffer materially if allowed to 
be twisted by the wind; but due consideration must be given to the con¬ 
dition of the soil. If it has been recently trenched and not settled the trees 
should be merely staged for a time, making them more secure in about a 
month. The roots should settle with the sinking of the soil, and they 
cannot do so if firmly secured to stakes before the soil becomes naturally 
consolidated. For this reason injury has often been done by securing trees 
closely to walls at the time of planting. They should only be lightly 
attached to the walls, then completing the nailing afterwards. 
Pruning Roses (./, Tooting). —Although your Roses are starting into 
growth freely you had better not prune them. Even if they grow 3 or 
4 inches near the extemities of the shoots, it is not likely that the lower 
buds will start, but the sap will flow past them into the outlets already 
provided ; but if you remove the growing portions it will then be directed 
to the remaining buds, which cannot under its pressure long remain dormant 
if the weather continues mild. 
Double Primulas {Idem). —Two of the best varieties now flowering at 
Chiswick are Lord Beaconsfield, carmine, and Marchioness of Exeter, blush 
white. You may grow these, also the old double white, which affords an 
abundance of flowers for cutting. 
Mildew Composition {G. B.). —We cannot suggest a better method for 
testing the efificacv of your composition than in the summer, when mildew 
is prevalent on Vines, Peaches, and Roses, to offer to send a sample to 
cultivators who find it difficult to eradicate the pest. Will it destroy the 
Orange mildew on Roses ? Although, as you commendably say, your 
“ greatest desire is to benefit others,” you are certainly entitled to some 
“ small remuneration ” if the composition proves more efficacious than others 
in the market, and this can only be determined by trials by different persons 
in the manner suggested. 
Black Currants Buds “Knotted” {T. W., <]• Stoneleigh ).—The condition 
of the buds is due to the presence of insects, and when these are numerous 
the bushes are practically ruined. We will refer to this subject more fully 
in an early issue, but in the meantime we fear there is no better remedy than 
cutting down the tree and burning the branches. The safe course, however, 
is to obtain healthy young trees and plant them as far as possible from 
those that are “ knotted.” 
Propagating Indiarubber Plants ( T. Butler). — The tops of plants 
6 inches long, the lower pair of leaves removed and the stems inserted firmly 
in small pots of very sandy soil and plunged in a bottom heat of 90° in a 
warm propagating case, will, if kept constantly moist, emit roots and soon 
make attractive plants. Expert propagators raise a plant from every de¬ 
veloped leaf. The leaves are scooped out of the stem so that the bud in the 
axil is secured. Each leaf is then secured to a stick and coiled round it as 
if coiling a sugar paper, and in that form loosely secured. Small pots are 
filled with nearly pure sand and watered, then the base of the leaf is pressed 
in it, covering the stalk, the stick which extends an inch or two below this 
holding the coiled leaf firmly. Quite small pots are employed, one leaf being 
inserted in the centre of each. These are plunged as before in a warm close 
case, and the soil and atmosphere kept constantly moist, yet not excessively 
so, this being governed by slight ventilation for a short time early in the 
morning. In due time the leafstalks callus and roots form ; then the dormant 
bud elongates and a plant is produced. The hundreds of dwarf plants sold in 
Covent Garden Market are propagated in this manner ; but it is no use at¬ 
tempting it without a brisk and regular heat, and a suitable frame or case. 
Asplenium Ruta-muraria {A.). —This Fern thrives best in the crevices 
of limestone rocks where the atmosphere is insist. It succeeds in damp 
walls where there is lime either in the stone or murtar employed. A suitable 
compost for growing it in pots is crushed Lme rubbish three parts with. 
