January 8, 1884, ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
3 
than it is generally recommended. During the time that the 
engine is going we cover the Yines with mats; we then wash the 
Vines with soap and water before taking oif any of the bark— 
this damps the webs that surround the bug, and prevents it 
blowing about and settling on any part of the house that has 
been cleaned. After the Vines have been washed, and before 
they are dry, any loose bark can be taken off and the rods again 
washed with soap and water; they are then ready for the effectual 
cure. 
To a mixture of clay and water about the thickness of cream 
one-third of coal tar is added, stirring till properly mixed, and 
one man k eps stirring the mixture during the time that another 
is painting the Vine rods. An ordinary painter's brush is used, 
and instead of keeping the mixture off the eyes of the Vines, as 
lately advised, rub it well in. 
When the Vines are completed the woodwork of the vinery 
■will be dry. This and the wires are then painted. We prefer 
to do this inside painting ourselves, taking care to fill up every 
crevice with pure paraffin, then with putty. When the painting 
is finished the Vines are tied in their places, the long litter is 
removed, and any loose soil on the border as well; but if the 
soil is very dry we sprinkle it with water to keep down the dust. 
Then for a finish the back wall is whitewashed, the hot-water 
pipes painted, and the border top-dressed. The next vinery can 
be proceeded with in the same manner as already stated, using 
fresh litter for the border, and if the plants have to be returned 
to the vinery that has been cleaned great cai’e should be taken to 
brush off all soil of the bottom of the boxes or pots. 
The advantage gained by commencing in the middle of the 
range is that we can work to the ends, which prevents carrying 
rubbish through the houses that have been cleaned. Anyone 
who has to deal with mealy bug on Vines is advised to give the 
above plan atrial.— David Murray, Gulzean Gardens, Mayb ole. 
CULTURE OF PHAL^NOPSIS. 
Where the requisite heat and moisture can be afforded it is ques¬ 
tionable if any Orchids are more worthy of cultivation than the above. 
They are now within the reach of all, as the price asked for them is 
comparatively low, yet they have not found their way into gardens 
generally as other Orchids have. This may be accounted for because 
the idea has become established that these plants are difficult to cul¬ 
tivate, and certainly when seriously checked no Oivhids will decline 
more rapidly in health and vigour ; but if carefully attended to their 
cultivation is rendered easy and success is certain. 
An Orchid house is not really necessary for the successful culti¬ 
vation of Phalfenopses ; on the contrary, they will thrive in any 
ordinary growing or suitable temperature. 1 have frequently seen 
them in a mixed collection doing much better than in the Orchid 
house. In the majority of gardens there is a stove, and therefore the 
system of cultivation that will suit Phalsenopses in these structures 
will be detailed. 
The only imported plants of Phalmnopsis I have had were esta¬ 
blished on pieces of bark when they arrived. They were given a 
moderate degree of heat and moisture and heavily shaded until they 
commenced growing, which they did in a very short time. Small 
established plants are very much the best to commence with. No 
time is better than the present to obtain plants, but care must be 
taken that they are dispatched during mild weather, and the train by 
which they are sent should be met, if possible, to prevent the package 
containing them remaining long in the cold. Their growth is gene¬ 
rally completed now and the plants are not making new roots, conse¬ 
quently are less liable to be checked than would be the case if they 
were in active growth. They are generally sent out in small pans, in 
which they should be allowed to remain after placing them in the 
stove, where the temperature at night is about 60°, until February. 
They should be kept in a moderately moist atmosphere, and the 
compost never be allowed to become dry. Place them over some 
moisture-holding material near to the glass as possible. I do not 
suspend these little pans from the roof because they dry too rapidly. 
A light position, and plenty of moisture in the atmosphere and at 
their roots, are required until their roots commence advancing. 
Phalsenopses are very free flowering, and the majority will throw 
up flower spikes, which should be removed from small plants directly 
they are seen. We are all anxious to see the flowers of new arrivals, 
but, in this case I strongly advise making a sacrifice rather than injure, 
or at least impede, the progress of the plants by allowing them to 
flower. If the floxver spikes are removed as soon as they appear the 
plants will commence forming roots by February, and should at once 
be placed in baskets. 'Iho most suitable size is 7 inches square and 
about 3 inches deep, made of either white or red pine ; in fact, any 
soft wood I prefer to those made of teak. The roots do not cling to 
the teak with the same freedom as they do to red pine. These decay 
much sooner than the baskets made of teak ; and even this I consider 
an advantage, for the wood when decayed is easier removed from 
amongst their roots if they require larger baskets. If teak is used no 
attempt must be made to take them out of the basket, but when 
larger are required the one in which they are growing must be placed 
inside that of a larger size. A few large crocks should be placed at 
the base of the baskets and then tilled level full with lumps of char¬ 
coal, and over these a good layer of living sphagnum moss. This 
should be well raised in ihe centre, so that the plant when ready can 
be placed on the surface The moss used must be picked clean and 
placed the day before it is required in the house. The young plants 
can be turned out of their pans and all the old compost removed, and 
their roots washed clean in tepid water. Any roots that are dead or 
have been injured in transit should be removed with a sharp knife. 
After this place the plants on the raised moss in the baskets, and 
work some of the same material carefully amongst their roots and 
above where the new roots are springing from the collar ; a little 
moss should also be placed between the pieces of wood that form the 
basket and next the charcoal. I may here add we use nothing but 
living sphagnum moss as a medium for the roots of these plants, and 
this with established plants is picked out annually and fresh supplied, 
the small particles being thoroughly washed from amongst the roots 
and charcoal by pouring tepid water out of a small watering can into 
the baskets. 
Af er placing the plants in baskets the posiiion in which they 
should be suspended is the next consideration. Our plants are grown 
in the stove, which runs nearly north and south, the door being at 
the former end and a brick end at the latter end, which is covered 
with Ferns, Lycopods, &c. The plants are suspended under the last 
light (south end) on the east side of the house. The condition of 
our plants proves that they enjoy the position accorded them, and 
when they are once found to grow luxuriantly in any position do not 
shift them, or they may gradually decline in vigour. 
Watering and syringing are of particular importance in the suc¬ 
cessful cultivation of these plants. Directly they are placed in their 
baskets a good soaking of warm water should be given them, and 
afterwards spray them with the syringe twice daily. Encourage the 
moss to grow from the time it is first placed in the baskets, and after 
it is started give abundance of water. If the atmosphere is mode¬ 
rately moist and the moss growing luxuriantly, we find the plants 
receive just the treatment they require as regards water and moisture. 
When the season has fairly advanced I lightly syringe the plants 
many times during the day when bright and warm—in fact, never 
allow the wood of the baskets to become dry. During the growing 
season the baskets and moss should be saturated with water. As the 
autumn advances I syringe the plants less, but never fail to do it 
once daily unless the weather proves very sunless or wet.. Even 
during the winter I give sufficient water to keep the moss alive and 
healthy. . , 
Shading is of great importance and cannot be dispensed witn. 
Thej cannot bear strong sun, and if allowed to strike directly upon 
them injurious results will follow ; on the contrary, shading should 
not be carried to the opposite extreme at the expense of light. Iixed 
shading should not be employed, and only such that will break the 
direct rays of the sun. The position our plants.occupy compels par¬ 
ticular attention in the morning, and often it is necessary to shaue 
them by 7 a m., especially in the early season, until the Allamandas 
spread over the roof. Fortunately the morning sun only affects the 
plants, that from the west being shaded from them by means ot 
blinds during the afternoon ; and the blinds on the side where they 
are suspended can be drawn up early in the day, and thus, the plants 
receive abundance of light to solidify their growth. Light is im¬ 
portant, for if a soft growth is encouraged the plants fail to pass the 
winter in such good condition as they will when the foliage made is 
thin and leathery. . , , 
Air is admitted freely on all favourable occasions during the 
summer. We commence early in the morning as soon as the tempe¬ 
rature is rising by admitting it at the base, the ventilators being 
formed in the brickwork below the side stages and opposite the. hot- 
water pipes, and then from the top if the temperature continues 
rising. Early in the spring when the air is cold the blinds are pre 
ferred to admitting cold currents of air, and seldom during the winter 
and spring are the top ventilators opened. I am no advocate for a 
close confined atmosphere, and prefer the admission of air daily, it 
only for half an hour, if it can be given with safety. 
If the plants become unhealthy the best plan to recruit them is to 
turn them out of their baskets and remove all dead and decaying 
roots, and wash those that are alive. They should then be secuiei 
to a piece of wood or bark with the smallest portion of moss, and 
again suspended until they commence rooting afresh, which they 
often will do in a very short time if they have not been allowed to 
decline too far. 
The night temperature of the house in which our Phafienopses are 
