January 24, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
61 
are placed on at night do not let them hang over the opening, except 
in the case of cold winds from the quarter they open towards. When the 
cuttings, or whatever there may be in the frame, require sprinkling or 
watering, which is generally on fine days, do it early in the after¬ 
noon. The water used should be of the same temperature as the 
bottom heat. Close the frame when the cuttings have been sprinkled, 
opening it slightly two hours after. When the bottom heat is de¬ 
clining a good lining of fresh material must be placed around the 
frame, packing it well around the sides. When the frame requires 
attending to, do not tread on the lining, but have a pair of steps at 
the back of the frame Hotbeds are very useful for forcing Aspa¬ 
ragus, Mint, Tarragon, Sweet Basil, and Tomatoes. — A. Young. 
EARLY PEAS. 
The useful letter from Mr. Barker (page 25) anent the growing of 
early Peas recalled to my memory a method I saw adopted by Mr. 
Melville at Glenlee In numbers of instances Peas are sown and grown 
to a certain stage under glass, and then after a gradual hardening-off 
planted outside in borders. Different men have different methods ; some 
grow them in pots, some in ordinary boxes, and others again use turves. 
The plan adopted by Mr. Melville differs from these, and is, I think, 
superior to any of them. He uses boxes or troughs formed something after 
this style. A number of small blocks of wood are obtained and a notch 
cut out of each thus— |V| In this notch two thin boards, corresponding 
in length to the breadth of the border where the Peas are to be grown, 
are placed, and the box is complete. After they have been filled with 
soil and the Peas sown two nails should be driven into each block and a 
string passed over the top of the box. This keeps the blocks in their 
proper place, and enables the boxes to be carried with convenience 
whenever it is necessary to shift them. When planting time arrives the 
simplicity of this method will be further seen. Supposing the ground to 
be thoroughly prepared beforehand, a notch corresponding in size to the 
box is formed, care being taken that it is quite level. Two men can 
easily transfer the Peas to their final position. The strings holding the 
blocks must then be cut away, the boards being held together with the 
hands till they are placed in the notch prepared for them. The boards 
may now be taken away and a little soil passed round the sides of the 
Peas, and the row is complete. It is advisable to draw a little earth 
round them and stake them at once, as this shelters the young plants and 
gives them a better chance to succeed.— Caledonian. 
Advantage should be taken of the present unusually mild and open 
weather for the time of year to make good sowings of the following 
excellent varieties of Peas in well-prepared ground, in rows (the number 
of which must be determined in accordance with the demand for the 
produce in each individual establishment) running north and south, and 
8 or 10 feet apart, the intervening space being planted with three or four 
rows of Cauliflowers later on—viz , William I., Laxton’s Supreme, Carter’s 
Telephone, and Ne Plus Ultra. The above Peas, which should be sown 
m the order in which their names appear, will make a good succession to 
the produce of the early varieties, of which we shall speak presently, and 
yield a daily supply of well-filled pods from the end of June for a month 
or five weeks hence ; the supply being continued thence till late in the 
autumn by the produce of later sowings of the same or kindred varieties 
made at intervals of a fortnight up to the second week in June. 
Early Peas .—The reason why I have given precedence in this paper 
to varieties and sowings of the same, from which Peas will be only ready 
for gathering by the time the supply from those of which I now write 
has been nearly exhausted, is because the seeds of the latter, owing to the 
special treatment to which they are or will be subject, do not require to 
be sown so early by a week or two, and then though the ground should 
happen to be in the firm grip of “Jack Frost” the fact need not in the 
least interfere with this procedure—viz., the sowing of early Peas in pots. 
For this purpose use 3-inch pots three parts filled with light soil, into 
which about eight or ten peas should be placed, and then covered with 
some of the same soil. The pots should then be removed to an early 
vinery or Peach house, and thence when the Peas have made a couple of 
inches of growth to a cooler and more airy house, where they can be 
gradually hardened off preparatory to being finally planted out in sunny 
borders later on. However, the method of procedure to be then followed 
will be communicated in another paper. For this crop we shall sow, and 
here recommend to be sown, Laxton’s Earliest of All, Day’s Early Sunrise, 
William I., Suttons’ Ringleader, and Emerald Gem, all excellent early 
varieties, and from which peas may be expected to be gathered the third 
week in May, should we be favoured with ordinary spring weather.— 
H. W. W. 
TROPCEOLUM TUBEROSUM. 
HAVING met with great success in the cultivation of this splendid 
climber, I thought a few hints respecting its requirements would be of 
service to many who have not given it a trial. I purchased a tuber of it 
in January of last year and at once potted it and brought it slowly on in 
a cool greenhouse, and when the weather was sufficiently warm planted 
it out against a wall having; a south aspect, where it soon made rapid 
progress and was admired by all who saw it, not only for its pretty 
foliage, but its mass of blooms. 
Sandy loam is the best compost for it, and during growth plenty of 
rain water at the roots; manure in any shape is not needed. This single 
tuber covered a space of 20 feet, and when its beauty was past I lifted 
the root carefully, and found I had a cluster of tubers numbering thirty- 
seven which had multiplied from the single one which I had planted ; 
some of them larger than the one I cultivated in the first place. 
The greater number of failures, I believe, are caused through too much 
feeding with manure, which causes these plants to produce foliage in. 
quantity in place of blooms.—J. D. M., Essex. 
GARDENERS EMIGRATING. 
I SHALL be much obliged if any reader of the Journal can give me 
any information relative to the colony of New South Wales as regards 
gardening. I see advertisements in the newspapers for young men to go 
out as emigrants, Vine-dressers being specially mentioned. As I intend 
going out there soon, I should like to know the Vine-dresser’s duties and 
average rate of wages. I have had a good practical experience in fruit¬ 
growing indoor and out, having acted as foreman at one of the largest 
Grape-growing establishments in the kingdom. Any information will be 
thankfully received by —A Four-years Reader. 
I AM to emigrate to New South Wales, Australis, soon. Can any of 
your numerous readers inform me of any good firm that I could apply to 
in pursuit of a situation ? near Sydney preferred. Also any reliable 
firm near Melbourne (Victoria) ? Any informaUon will be thankfully 
received by —J. S., Co. Bonn. 
CULTURE OF USEFUL PLANTS. 
Primulas .— Sow Primula seed in March in pans, place them in a cool 
house and cover them with glass, which should be removed when the 
seeds have germinated. When large enough prick the seedlings off into 
pans in a finely sifted compost, and transfer them to a warm frame, giving 
them a position near to the glass ; a Melon or Cucumber bed just started 
being suitable. When well rooted transfer them into 60-size pots. Soil, two 
parts loam, one of peat, half finely sifted well-decayed manure, half sand^ 
and a little rough grit. A warm bed should have been specially prepared 
for them, which would rise to about 70°, and with a covering of 6 inches 
of soil to prevent the injurious gases from the dung rising into the frame, 
placing the pots close to the glass. Repot the plants when necessary, and 
by the last shift the bed ought to be renewed and increased, so as to give 
plenty of room, and a little fresh mixed with it is all that is required to- 
raise the heat. Never have the soil too moist, or, to use the general 
expression, keep on the dry side. In the beginning of October transfer 
the plants to a good dry and light shelf in a greenhouse or cool vinery, 
water very sparingly and with weak liquid manure. To keep up a supply 
seed ought to be sown at different periods. 
Bonvardias .—Plants of these that have ceased blooming should be cut 
down and transferred to a light and warm house to commenre growth. 
When ready, which will be the end of January or beginning of February, 
cuttings should be taken if possible with heel of the old wood and 
inserted in 48-size pots, a mixture of finely sifted peat and charcoal being 
employed. Place the pots in a frame in a propagating house, and when tb& 
cuttings are rooted trausfer them singly into 60-size pots, and place them 
on a shelf near the glass in the same or a similar house. In June place 
them in a frame or cool house where they can be syringed twice a day. 
Shift them when they are sufficiently advanced into a compost of loam, 
peat, charcoal, cow dung, and sand. Great attention must be paid to- 
watering and pinching the shoots to make good plants. Fumigate if 
aphides are troublesome. In October remove them to a warm house and 
give supplies of weak liquid manure. 
Marantas .—February is the month for potting these, for which use a 
compost of three parts peat and part loam and sand. Grow them in a 
good heat, placing, if convenient, in a brisk bottom heat. Great care 
should be taken in crocking the pots, as they require a great quantity of 
water, and it is necessary it should not remain stagnant. Syringe twice 
a day, and in case they are not plunged stand them in pans kept full of 
water during summer. Much less is required in winter.— A FOREMAN. 
SPECIAL SOCIETIES. 
“ A few old fogies are fond of Auriculas, Carnations, &c .—so very 
fond of Ihem that they go to the trouble to promote special exhibitions of 
them, thinking that a certain portion of the public would be pleased to see 
them. The public, or at lea<t a porti n of it, see and applaud. The 
fogms are satisfied, and do not trouble their heads about ‘ national 
utility.’ ” 
The above was written last week by Mr. Jame^ Douglas, and I must 
say I have never before seen such an honest confession, as far as it goes, 
from a florist. There can be no doubt about the “ old fogey ” aspect of 
the quest’on. and a member of that fraternity is qualified to speak on the 
subject. Mr. Douglas has not, however, told the whole truth ahout 
special societies. One main reason why the “ old fogies ” encourage these 
is an eye to business and the sale ®f their seeds and plants. The 
successful Auricula growers are probably about one in a hundred among 
gardeners and amateurs, but the greater the number that can be prevailed 
upon, by means of shows, &c., to tmbaik in pot-Auricula culture the better 
for the “old fogies” and the worse for the garden culture of a pretty 
flower that was intended for our flower borders and rockeries, and not for 
the frame or glass house of “ old fogies,” who truly “ do not trouble their 
heads about national utility,” and I therefore conclude that the title, 
“ National Auricula Society,” which they have adopted lately, is a delusion. 
