72 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
January 24, 1334. 
the market before any other Plum is ready. Victoria follows it, and is 
well worthy of moderate culture, its fruit being large and abundant. 
Cluster Damson, May Duke Cherry, Pearson’s Prolific Nut, Warrington 
Gooseberry, Prince of Wales Raspberry, and Black Naples Currant are 
also all profitable fruits, the last one being undoubtedly the most profit¬ 
able of all in suitable soil and under good culture. 
When to Plant. —At once without delay, or the trees will not make 
good growth this year. Never have we known a more favourable winter 
for planting from November onwards. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early Houses. —Disbudding and tying-down Vines in early 
houses must have timely attention ; removing all surplus bunches as 
soon as the most promising can be decided upon, as to leave any surplus 
bunches only needlessly weakens those that must ultimately remain. 
Thin the bunches of Hamburgbs and all early varieties (excepting 
Sweetwaters) as soon as the berries are set, but those that do not set 
freely should not be thinned until the properly fertilised berries can be 
distinguished by their taking the lead in swelling. Any shy-setting 
varieties, such as Muscats, should be fertilised with Black Hamburgh 
pollen. When Muscats are in flower keep the house drier and a few 
degrees warmer, affording circulation of dry warm air on all favourable 
occasions. For Hamburghs a night temperature of 60° to 65° will suffice, 
with 5° rise by day in dull weather, and 10° to 15° with sun heat. 
Muscats should, when in flower, have a night temperature of 65° to 70°, 
75° by day in dull weather, and 80° to 90° with sun heat. As the roots 
will now be active, inside borders should have a good soaking of water as 
soon as the berries are fairly set, giving it at a temperature of 80°, which 
will from the warmth prove a great incentive of root-action. If the 
outside border is covered with fermenting materials and the temperature 
falls below 80°, add a few fresh leaves and stable litter, replacing the 
shutters, but keeping them quite clear of the fermenting materials. 
Succession Houses. —Vines treated as advised in former calendars will 
soon be starting; but continue to syringe twice a day and turn the 
fermenting materials frequently, alike for liberating moisture and 
ammonia. If there be no fermenting materials use weak liquid manure ' 
for damping the floor and borders ; but it must not be used on the Vines, 
or it will accelerate the production of aerial roots, especially from the 
rods of Vines somewhat aged, or young ones either if there be little 
activity at the roots proper. The temperature should range at 55° or a 
little higher on mild nights, and G0° to 65° in the daytime, allowing an 
advance from sun heat to 70° or 75°, but with a free circulation of air, 
especially now that the weather is so mild. Syringing should be dis¬ 
continued as soon as the bunches are distinguishable, yet a suitable 
atmosphere must be maintained by damping the floor and walls. Main¬ 
tain a supply of manure in the reserve ground, so that it may be introduced 
into the houses in a sweetened condition as occasion requires—small 
quantities at a time and often. 
Early Vines in Pots. —Complete the thinning of these as soon as 
practicable, and be very careful not to overcrop them, as this is one of 
the most fatal evils of Vine culture. Afford tepid weak liquid manure 
freely whenever needed, pouring it on the material placed around the 
pots after the roots have passed into it, keeping up the bottom heat to 75° 
by turning and adding to the fermenting materials as necessary. At 
night 65° is a sufficiently high temperature and 5° less on cold nights, 
and 70° to 75° by day, almitting a little air at 75°, allowing an advance 
of 10° to 15° from sun heat, and close early or at 80°. 
Raising Canes for Fruiting. —There must not be any further delay 
in getting cut-backs and eyes into heat which are intended for growing 
into fruiting canes. When the former have pushed about a couple of 
inches they should be shaken out and potted in new compost, using 
7-inch pots or larger according to the strength of the roots, and place 
them over bottom heat near the glass. 
Grape Room. —Examine the whole of the fruit at least twice a 
week, removing all decayed berries, and if the Grapes show any dispo¬ 
sition to mould or other decay light gentle fires early on fine dry mornings 
and ventilate freely. Ventilate on all fine days, keeping the room quite 
close in damp weather. 
Figs. — Early-forced Trees in Pots. —These have had the advantage of 
unusually mild weather, and have made great progress without our having 
to resort much to fire heat. The trees have had the benefit of a bed of 
fermenting materials ; these should be added to as necessary, so as to keep 
the heat steady about the pots at 70° to 75°. Stopping must be attended 
to, and where trees are aged close stopping will be needed, pinching the 
young growths at the fifth or sixth leaf ; but where the trees are extending 
no more stopping need be practised than is necessary to form symmetrical 
trees, and on these the finest fruit will be produced. When the trees 
have grown to the extent above indicated the night temperature should 
range from 55° to 60° ; 65° to 70° by day by artificial means, and 10° more 
with a bright sun. Commence ventilating a little at 70°, increasing it 
with the sun’s power, but be careful not to admit cold draughts of air 
directly upon the foliage. Syringe the trees and walls copiously twice a 
day, as red spider will assuredly appear if there be any neglect in this. 
Give liberal supplies of tepid liquid manure as necessary, for if there be 
any deficiency so as to cause a check the effect on the first crop of fruit 
will be fatal. 
Trees Planted Out. —The treatment advised for early houses will 
apply to successions, whether the trees are planted out or in pots. In 
the case of those planted out the borders should be well mulched with 
decayed manure, and supplied with tepid water repeatedly until every 
particle is thoroughly moistened down to the drainage. 
Late Houses .—The trees must be thoroughly cleaned, also the houses, 
and everything prepared for starting. Every particle of the wood must 
be thoroughly washed with soapy water, 6 ozs. to a gallon, and afterwards 
dress with some approved insecticide, observing great care in dressing 
the young wood, as the embryo fruit is easily injured. The old mulching 
should be removed and fresh supplied. 
Raising Young Trees .—If it be desired to increase the stock of young 
trees, cuttings or eyes inserted now and plunged in bottom heat will 
make good plants for potting at the end of the season of growth. For 
making trees with clean straight single stems of any required eyes are 
the best, and they do not give any trouble from underground suckers. 
Brown Turkey and Negro Largo with White Marseilles are fine for any 
purpose. 
Melons .—If sown as advised in a previous calendar, and attended to 
as advised, they will now be in rough leaf and will need a shift into 
5-inch pots, and be again plunged in the pit close to the glass, and a 
small stick placed to each of those intended for training to trellis and* 
secured thereto, whilst those intended for pits or frames should he stopped 
at the second rough leaf, and may be planted out as soon as the planting 
medium is prepared. Melons delight in a stiff loamy soil with an 
admixture of old lime rubbish or charcoal to keep the soil porous. A 
ridge or hillock should be formed along the centre of the pit or frame,, 
or in the middle of each light about 10 inches deep, the soil being made 
firm, and should be in a moist condition, so as to lessen the necessity for 
watering in the early stages of growth. One plant is ample in a light,, 
unless the lights are above the ordinary size, when two plants may be 
placed in each, one to be trained to the front and the other to the back. 
See that they are properly moist before turning them out, and make the 
soil firm about the plants. A little soot in a circle about the plants will 
save them from the ravages of slugs. If the bottom heat is obtained 
from fermenting materials the plants should not be placed out until 
the temperature has fallen to 90°, whilst if from hot-water pipes keep it 
steady at 80°. The top heat should be 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day, 
with a rise of 10° to 15° from sun heat. Keep up a good heap of fer¬ 
menting materials in a proper state of fermentation for making up new 
beds, or prompt application to beds or lining when such are necessary- 
Sow seed for succession. 
Strawberries in Pots .—Mild weather has greatly assisted the progress- 
of the plants. Very little fire heat is necessary for newly started plants, 
which is of great benefit up to the time the fruit is fairly set and 
swelling. See that there is no trace of mildew, and ventilate promptly 
even in dull weather if the air be mild. The air of the house should be 
kept comparatively dry when the plants are in flower, and examine the 
blossoms when the sun has been out some time ; dusting them with a brush* 
of camel’s hair to assist fertilisation. When set and swelling raise the 
temperature to 60° or 65° by artificial means, and 10° to 15° from sun 
heat, and close early with plenty of moisture in the house. This will 
cause the fruit to swell quickly to a good size. Thin the fruits, removing 
all that are deformed as well as the small—a few good-sized fruit being 
better than thrice the number of small. The plants must never want 
for water. Examine them twice daily, and give liquid manure two or 
three times a week in a tepid state. When the fruit commences ripening 
keep a drier atmosphere and a rather drier condition of the soil. Plants- 
stored in pits or frames should be looked over frequently and given 
water when there is the least indication of dryness. Admit air 
abundantly. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Aerides, Vandas, and Saecolabiums .—These plants grow well in baskets 
suspended from the roof of the stove, in fact no better position can be 
accorded them. Many grow these plants in pots in the warmest house ^ 
but where room is limited and the flowers are required to be cut they are 
best grown in baskets. Even in this condition they can be arranged 
amongst other plants while in flower if thought desirable. These plants 
may now without further delay be examined and given larger baskets if 
they require them, or may have the material surrounding them removed 
and fresh supplied. If the roots of any of these kinds cling tenaciously to the 
old baskets, remove only such as can be done without injury to their roots. 
In preference to breaking the roots by removing them from the baskets- 
in which they are growing place them as they are into others of a larger 
size. The whole of the potting material should be removed from amongst 
their roots and fresh given, for these plants dislike decomposed matter 
about their roots, and in such a state will not long remain healthy. The 
baskets should be liberally drained with broken pots and lumps of charcoal, 
the remaining portions being filled with living sphagnum moss only. 
While growing these plants require liberal supplies of water, and the 
moss in one season becomes sufficiently decomposed for removal. We 
remove the whole carefully and wash out the small particles by pouring 
water into the baskets. Amongst the moss crocks and charcoal may with 
advantage be used. These plants delight in sending their roots through 
the baskets into the moist atmosphere of the house. 
Oncidiums .—The majority of these that require heat do well in the 
stove in baskets and while at rest can be removed to cooler quarters. 
Such species as O. flexuosum, O Lanceanum, and others that have 
commenced making fresh roots may be attended to. In removing 
them to larger baskets, exercise the same care as advised above, 
and do not injure their roots more than possible. Many of these 
plants delight in sending their roots outside the baskets, and with 
such varieties no attempt should be made to place them inside ; 
on the contrary, allow them to grow as naturally as possible. 
If the whole of the compost is removed every second year it will be 
found sufficient. They should, however, be examined every year, and a 
