74 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 24 , 1884. 
the soil unsuitable. Give fresh soil if needed, continue the use of sulphur, 
ventilate the house judiciously, and with brighter weather your Hoses may be 
expected to improve. 
Holly Leaves Falling (J. C., Frodsham ).—In a garden that we recently 
visited the gardener confidently attributed the defoliation of the Hollies to 
the salt that was conveyed in the boisterous gale of some two months ago. 
Hj stated that salt could be scraped off the windows of his cottage and the 
leaves of the evergreens, and the latter commenced casting their foliage soon 
afterwards. The situation is twice the distance from the sea of that from 
which you write. This may not be the origin of the evil in your case, but 
the matter is worth your consideration. 
Propagating Lapagerias ( II. W.). —These plants are propagated by 
pegging the stems in a bed of peat and sand at a sufficient depth that about 
the half of each leaf appears above the surface in a vertical position. The 
bed being kept moist roots will be emitted from most of the joints, and the 
growth from each leaf axil will form a plant. It is not necessary to notch 
the stems. 
Pinching Peach Tree Shoots {Idem ).—We practised the plan long before 
the work to which you allude was published, and found it answer well, 
affording abundant crops of good fruit. As a rule, however, this was not 
quite so large as when young wood was retained, and regular and systematic 
attention is requisite for success. First try a modification of the plan by 
pinching a few shoots instead of disbudding so severely. This combination 
system answers admirably when intelligently conducted, as we feel sure it 
will be in your hands. 
Building Flues and Chimneys ( D. M). —Your letter is practically 
unanswerable—that is to say, it cannot be answered usefully, as the price of 
such work varies with the differing price of materials and labour in different 
districts. In no way can you ascertain the cost so nearly as by stating the 
particulars to local tradesmen, and ask them to supply estimates for com¬ 
pleting the work. 
Trees on Tarred Fence (E. M.). —We have grown Pears against a tarred 
fence for years with the most satisfactory results, the boards being perfectly 
dry before the trees were planted. We do not apprehend any danger what¬ 
ever in your case, the tar having being applied last summer. If any persons 
can adduce authenticated instances of failure under the circumstances 
indicated we will record them. 
Disbudding Vines (A Young Beginner ).—We do not approve of denuding 
the lower part of the rods—that is, the part from the ground to the base of 
the rafters—of buds, as by permitting the laterals to extend we promote 
the thickening of the stem ; and if the stems are contracted, as we often 
see them, the sap vessels are contracted also. Unless the joints are very 
6hort and the eyes or buds are less than 6 inches apart we allow them to 
grow, at least until they meet across the space between the Vines. This 
strengthens the stem, and the leading cane grows as freely as if the side 
growths were rubbed off. If closer together than the distance indicated 
every alternate bud may be removed, and the foliage on the laterals that 
will then extend will develope the better. If the Vines are very strong one 
bunch on each may be permissible, not otherwise. 
Liquid Manure for Pelargoniums {A. B.). — As you have used Clay’s 
fertiliser in potting you must be careful in the use of liquid manure, or yon 
may have far more foliage than flowers. That manure is excellent as a top¬ 
dressing and watered-in for Pelargoniums, and is largely used in that way 
by the best growers. Clear soot water is good for imparting colour to the 
foliage and flowers. So long as the foliage is of a deep green colour liquid 
manure will not be needed. 
Carpet-bedding Designs (IF. P.).— We are not aware that such a variety 
of designs can be found as in the back numbers of this Journal. Several, 
however, are included in the “ Parks and Gardens of London,” published at 
this office, price bs., post free 5s. 6 d. The work also contains instructions 
for raising most of the plants that are employed in carpet bedding. Mi - . 
Graham, Hampton Court, prepared a useful manual on this subject, but we 
do not know whether copies are still to be had. 
Peas for Small Garden (Willing to Learn ).—As an early variety sow 
William the First; to succeed it Gladiator, Marvel, Maclean’s Best of All, 
and Sturdy, all of which are excellent for successional sowing, and all are 
abundant producers. Very little economy results from sowing cheaper 
kinds, which, however good for market purposes, are not appreciated by 
those of refined taste. You are acting wisely in seeking to improve your 
clay soil by burning the subsoil. The Peas are all of medium height. 
Rabbits’ Dung as Manure {Idem). —Why should not the dung of the 
rabbit be as good manure as that of other herbivorous animals ? We know 
the prejudice that existed against it among agriculturists from the fact that 
these.animals are very injurious to their interests, and from the grass not 
growing strongly about their burrows, which is attributed to the baneful 
influence of their dung, but is really a consequence of being closely cropped. 
Remove the rabbits, and the grass or other crops will grow much more 
luxuriantly there than in any other part of the land adjoining. It will be 
useful in a garden for any description of crop, and would be best kept under 
cover; indeed all manures are, as they then have not much of the fertilising 
matter washed out by rains, as is the case when they are exposed. 
Aphis on Auricula Roots {J. Luck ).—UnLss the plants were very 
seriously affected we should hesitate to shake them out now. Try the effects 
of paraffin on a plant or two and note the results. Mixed at the rate of an 
ounce to the gallon of water we feel confident it would not injure the plants, 
while it would check, if not destroy, the insects. Mr. Llewellyn has stated 
the plants seem to like a little paraffin rather than otherwise. Moderately 
used it no doubt acts as a manure, but an excess is dangerous. Mr. Thom¬ 
son of Drumlanrig has found that, mixed at the rate of two ounces per 
gallon, and applied to Zonal Pelargoniums, did not do them the slightest 
injury ; and we have used it similarly to Lettuces, which “ seemed to like 
it,” while the aphides on the roots were destroyed. The oil can only be 
incorporated with the water by violent and constant agitation. We are 
strongly of opinion that water may be given so hot as to destroy the aphis 
without doing any injury to the roots of Auriculas, and if we had any 
plants infested we should try the hot-water remedy, commencing at a 
temperature of 150°. Will you try it with a plant or two and let us know 
the results ? The average value of an acre of well-grown Black Currant3 
is probably about £40. 
Preserving Flower Sticks (IF)—As the paint would perhaps cost a 
shilling or two, and therefore be too expensive, you might try paraffin. It is 
a good wood-preserver, but the stakes would not have such a neat appearance 
as if covered with green paint. If not dressed with anything the wood 
would last much longer than the points of the sticks inserted in the soil if 
these were not charred or creosoted : and this should be done to a part that 
would be fully an inch above the surface of the earth, as it is just at the 
surface where decay is most rapid, and not deep in the soil. 
Top-dressing and Pruning Vines {Zeno ).—No top-dressings in such a 
narrow border as yours would equal a covering 5 or 6 inches thick of rich farm¬ 
yard manure. Failing this, remove the surface soil if you can do so without 
injuring the roots, and add 3 or 4 inches of good fresh loam ; then as the 
Vines need support give them liquid manure. This may consist of sewage 
and urine diluted with five or six times its volume of water, with soot and 
guano water occasionally—a change always being beneficial. Guano is good 
as a top-dressing sprinkled on the surface at the rate of an ounce to the 
square yard occasionally; so is superphosphate of lime, two ounces per square 
yard. Clay’s fertiliser is good used the same as guano, and Thomson’s Vine 
manure excellent. Apply what is the most convenient, and keep the border 
moist fiom top to bottom. You have erred in deferring the pruning so long, 
and if your Vines are strong and healthy they may bleed excessively, as 
especially if Thomson’s styptic or painter’s knotting be not applied before 
the sap commences to move. Instead of pruning when the Vines are starting 
we prefer disbudding—removing the buds from that portion of the laterals 
usually cut off, aDd the laterals themselves after the growths from the base 
have developed their foliage. Read Mr. Iggulden’s article on this subject in 
our issue of December 20th, last volume. 
Planting Vines {F. J.). —A good time for planting Vines is when they 
have fairly started into growth—that is, have produced shoots 1 or 2 inches 
long ; but they will succeed if planted when the buds are distinctly swelling, 
and protrude through thin scaly covering. This would perhaps be the safest 
guide for you to follow as you are not an expert in the woik. The Vines 
must be obtained when the buds are quite dormant, or they would almost 
certainly be dislocated in transit. The Black Hamburgh is the most useful 
Grape for amateurs. The Black Alicante is later, free and showy, but the 
fruit is not of high quality. Answers to your other questions must be 
deferred, but a reply will be given in ample time to be of service. 
Temperature for Cucumbers ( S. F .).—You ask l< If it is of any use 
trying to grow Cucumbers in a house in which over 55° at night cannot be 
maintained, increasing to 80° in the day with sun heat?” We have never 
seen a house exactly of the kind indicated. If you mean that you cannot 
maintain a night temperature of over 55° at this period of the year we fail to 
see that you can insure an increase to 80° with sun ; while in summer, when 
you can insure the day temperature indicated, a night temperature exceeding 
55° can be easily maintained, often for weeks, with an occasional interruption 
when the weather happens to be unusually cold. It is not much use your 
trying to raise Cucumber plants now in your house, but if you can maintain a 
minimum night temperature of 50° in January you will have no difficulty in 
increasing it as the season advances to the proper degree for growing 
Cucumbers. We have never had better crops nor finer fruit than from a 
house in which no fire heat whatever was employed, but planting was not 
done until June, and then the plants were very strong, having been raised 
in a frame. They were 18 inches high, with stems as thick as your 
finger, and proportionally stout foliage, the 6-inch pots being filled, but 
not crowded, with active roots. They were planted in turfy loam 
placed on a bed of fermenting material 3 feet high, and the growths 
trained up the roof. At that period of the year the weather was so 
warm that there was no difficulty during bright days of maintaining 
a temperature of 90°, and with a moist atmosphere the plants grew with 
great freedom, and by closing the house when possibly at from 95° to 100°, 
with much moisture, a night temperature of 65° was frequently maintained ; 
but even if it fell to 55°, and now and then even lower, such vigorous plants 
received no appreciable check, but only a temporary rest, and they continued 
fruiting till October in the most satisfactory manner. Thus you will 
perceive the question of growing Cucumbers in what is a cool house now 
resolves itself into a question of judgment and management—waiting until 
the house is naturally warmer, then cultivating the plants well. Any house 
in which a night temperature of 45° can be maintained in winter may with 
the greatest ease be converted into a stove in summer by judicious ventila¬ 
tion ; and if the requisite light and moisture are provided, Cucumbers may 
be grown in the structure as well as any other stove plants. 
Zonal Pelargoniums not Flowering {S. F.). —In the first place your 
plants were pinched too late, and in the second they had not nearly sufficient 
light, arranged so far from the glass, and placed in the house, no doubt, 
before the leaves were off the Vines. Young plants grown generously 
during the summer in the open air so long as the weather remains favour¬ 
able, then given the shelter of frames towards the autumn, will flower with 
great freedom in winter in a very light house with a temperature ranging 
between 50° and 60°. The end of July is late enough for topping the shoots, 
but the flower stems should be pinched off as they appear until late autumn. 
By pinching the shoots in September only small growths can result, and 
these never produce a succession of fine trusses. Some varieties flow T er much 
better than others during the winter, and at least one of those yon name is 
bright and useful during the dull months of the year. We allude to Vesuvius, 
but it fails when the plants are not well prepared and then placed in an 
unsuitable house. A position under Vines is not suitable, nor can the plants 
be expected to succeed so far from the glass as is indicated by the sketch 
before us. Cannot you make a flat stage from the front of the house over the 
Vine border and flue, and as wide as is convenient ? If, as we presume is 
the case, the front of the house is glazed, good plants would flow'er there in 
winter if the temperature did not fall below 50°, but not if they are densely 
shaded by the Vines for a month in the autumn. 
Propagating Lombardy Poplars {E. J. C. B.). —You must employ well* 
ripened wood of last year’s growth for cuttings, which should be cut into 
lengths of not less than 9 inches or 1 foot. The last is preferable if the 
