January 31, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
9 
nium seed sown now and treated in the same way will produce 
flowering plants by the autumn. 
Those who possess named varieties of Hollyhocks should 
place the stools now in a little peat, or if they are in the 
ground cover them with a handlight. If placed in heat, of 
course they will come on quicker, and consequently produce 
better plants the first season. When the cuttings are fully 
active, take them off with a heel, if intended for striking, and 
insert them in small pots of light sandy soil and place in the 
propagating pit, when they should be carefully watered — not 
kept too wet—and in about a fortnight they will root. They 
can also be grafted upon pieces of roots, selecting those about 
the same thickness as the shoots. This plan in generally adopted 
where they are largely grown. Ordinary side grafting is the 
simplest and best way to manage them, and when done place 
them in small pots of sandy soil and plunge in heat, and in 
due course, other things being equal, they will unite and form 
good plants; and like Roses, if planted below the union, will 
quickly be upon their own roots. I usually select seedlings for 
grafting, as they are more vigorous than portions of roots taken 
from other plants, and if they are grown in small pots for the 
purpose, the ball can be turned out, sufficient soil removed to 
put the scion on, and the whole returned again to the pot and 
then placed in heat. This is a very simple and generally 
successful way of increasing them. Supposing they are not 
now propagated at all, there will still be a good chance to 
increase the stock in July by eyes selected from the lateral 
shoots, which are generally freely produced. Examine the 
buds in the axils of the leaves, a.nd many of them will be 
found to be leaf buds. These should be cut up similar to Yine 
eyes, leaving about an inch of stem each side of the eye, 
and pot them separately in small pots, leaving the bud slightly 
above the soil, and plunge in a brisk bottom heat, either in a 
hotbed or in the propagating bed inside, and in due course the 
bud will expand and roots will be emitted from the under surface, 
and before winter sets in really good plants may be had by this 
means. All the buds will not grow, but with care a good 
per-centage of them will turn out most satisfactorily. I struck 
a good batch during the last two seasons, and a few days since 
I repotted those which were worked last July upon their showing 
signs of activity. They were in 3-inch pots, and are now shifted 
into 5-inch size and placed in a cold frame, there to remain till 
the end of March or early in April, according to the weather, 
when they will be planted out in well-prepared ground, which to 
insure success is a very important item; indeed it is absolutely 
necsssary, especially if the soil is stiff, to thoroughly work it, if 
they are to make the best of the season.—T. 
REVIEW OF BOOK. 
Tie English Flower Garden. By W. Robinson. London : John 
Murray, Albemarle Street. 
Flower gardening has made considerable advances within the past 
quarter of a century ; a greater diversity of styles has come into favour, 
and there has been a gradual awakeoing to the fact that it was a mistake 
to rely exclusively upon the so-called standard bedding plants, such as 
Pelargoniums, Calceolarias, and Lobelias. The brilliant effect produced 
by tastefully arranged beds of these is admirably adapted for some posi¬ 
tions when employed in moderation, but advocates of this style of bedding 
have done their cause injury by excess of zeal, and there is no doubt but 
that this has in a great measure contributed to a steady revolution in taste. 
A decided step towards relieving the sameness produced by a repetition of 
brightly coloured flowering plants was the introduction of the carpet style of 
bedding, in which the plants, consisting of those distinguished by different 
coloured foliage, possessed softer and quieter tints, and produced in combina¬ 
tion more pleasing harmonies of colour than could be expected from the others. 
Though this has been as unmercifully ridiculed as the Pelargonium style, 
its merits are well established and its popularity unquestionable. A third 
style is that in which hardy plants are chiefly employed, and this also has 
been much advanced and developed in recent years. It is a pleasing 
revival of an old taste, for the border of hardy plants and florists’ flowers 
formed the chief feature in gardens long before the more tender exotic 
plants were largely employed in outdoor garden decoration. In few 
establishments, however, were any elaborate attempts made in the arrange¬ 
ment, and it is in this respect principally that the advance is noticeable. 
Spring bedding is only a form of this, and the beautiful effects produced by 
tasteful displays in this method are now familiar to the public, and its value 
is fully recognised. Yet taking the borders or beds of hardy plants alone, 
it is surprising how great an amount of pleasure they will yield during a 
great portion of the year when stocked with a judicious selection of the most 
attractive species and varieties. That the popular knowledge of such plants 
is limited to a small proportion of the total number known and procurable is 
undeniable; it is equally clear that an extension of such knowledge is 
very desirable and likely to add much to the beauty and interest of 
gardens generally. The object of the work now before us is to assist in 
this object, and both in design and execution it is admirably adapted for 
purpose, as it is a reliable compendium of the best information 
obtainable upon the subject, and to which many of the most experienced 
lovers of hardy flowers have contributed.. 
The subject is treated in two parts. The first, to which 124 pages are 
devoted, deals with the style, position, arrangement, and the practical 
matters connected with the formation of flower gardens. It is accompanied 
by a number of excellent engravings of garden scenery to illustrate the 
principal effects obtainable by appropriate planting in the neighbourhood 
of mansions, a few designs of carpet beds, and figures of subtropical 
plants. The second part, which forms the bulk of the book, containing 
over 300 pages, is devoted to the description and culture of the flowers 
suitable for culture in the open air. This, like the preceding, is thoroughly 
well done, being the work of a number of specialists whose services 
the editor freely acknowledges, specially mentioning those of Mr. 
W. Goldring. The genera are arranged alphabetically, treated very fully, 
and profusely illustrated. Taking the Campanulas for instance, no less 
than thirty-three species are represented; and other large genera, such a3 
Clematis, Lilium, Narcissus, and Primula, are similarly well described and 
figured. 
As regards type, paper, binding, and general finish this work is all that 
could be desired, and altogether it is the best on the subject that has yet 
been produced. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The Weather .—Plenty of rain and a generally unusual mildness have 
been the leading features in the winter so far, and nothing could be more 
favourable to the growth and preservation of vegetables, as well as for 
tilling the soil. Market gardeners would probably be glad to see many 
vegetables scarcer, but buyers will not be of this opinion ; and many 
private growers will have much to be thankful for, as in many cases 
winter supplies tax their resources to the utmost, and a severe November 
or December give much extra work in forcing to keep up supplies in 
spring. This should not be the case this spring, as Broccoli are turning 
in profusely. Spinach is large and succulent in the leaf, and other 
things remain fully developed. Should frost occur, however, as it no 
doubt will, the condition of matters will soon change, and cultivators 
should do their utmost to be prepared for this. Forcing has been simple 
work so far, and ground work, such as digging and trenching, should not 
now be behind in any case. A mild January often tempts beginners to 
sow freely, and by the end of March the mistake is too often apparent, 
but it will be well if those who are guided by the weather will confine 
their operations to thoroughly prepared soil, sheltered corners, and 
limited sowings. 
Winter and Spring Callages .—These are healthy and green, and a 
general earthing-up should now be given. Where the soil is mellow this 
may be easily done with a drag hoe, but where retentive a fork should 
be used. The soil should be drawn well up to the collars of the plants, 
as this will give them needful support when the heads are heavy. It 
also prevents the wind shaking them, and in case of frost would afford 
them much protection. The small plants which are left in the autumn- 
sown beds are now large and ready for going out, and a piece may be 
planted with them at any time. The soil for their reception must be 
well manured. A little seed of an approved early variety should be sown 
in some warm corner, and this will give a very good succession to the 
others. 
Onions .—Manure ground heavily for the reception of those plants 
raised from seed sown in the autumn. Sow seed of one of the early 
quick-growing sorts to give a supply of young plants for drawing when 
the autumn Onions are too large and before the spring plants are 
fairly in. 
Round Spinach .—A few rows of this may be sown. A light dry soil 
suits it best at this season, and as it will not be very long on the ground 
special preparations need not be made for it. We generally sow our first 
crops of this between the rows of Peas put in during autumn, which are 
not staked, and we have many good early pickings from plants grown 
between the Strawberry rows on a south border. 
Hotleds .—These should be made up in succession for the reception of 
early Potatoes, Carrots, &c., and where materials of the kind are plentiful, 
many young Cauliflower plants, Lettuces, and Radishes may now be 
sown in frames, or between the rows of Potatoes where the latter are 
planted wide enough apart. 
Glole Artichokes .—These are greener than we ever saw them at thi3 
time, and if severe weather comes the consequence may be serious, as 
they will not bear much frost. No attempt must be made yet to clear 
the litter from around them, as this will benefit them until the end of 
March. 
Mint .—Where this is wanted green with early lamb a quantity of 
roots should be taken up and placed in pots or boxes, then plunged in a 
gentle heat. 
Broccoli .—Many of these are hearting now. Backhouse’s is our best, 
then comes Osborn’s and Snow’s. Where more heads are ready than is 
wanted cut and store them in a cool place. All the leaves should be 
trimmed off, and the short piece of stem attached to each head should be 
