February 21 , 1884 ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
14S 
formed in good soil last year, or not long ago, should not require any 
feeding yet, but all plants of over two or three years old are benefited 
by a rich top-dressing in spring. —A Kitchen Gardener. 
GLAZED FLOWER POTS. 
Twenty years back I grew Pelargoniums, Primulas, Cinerarias, 
with very great success in glazed pans. The Pelargoniums took first prizes 
wherever exhibited, and the late Mr. Fleming used to make great comment 
upon them. I have at the present time in glazed pans (ornamental) from 
Matthews, Royal Pottery, Lycopods and Ferns that have been twelve 
months in them quite fresh, and used for room-decoration without any 
renewing.— Black Prince. 
After reading Mr. D. Thomson’s interesting article on the above 
subject (page 101) it struck me that as many plant-growers are not in a 
position to get glazed pots, a coat or two of paint on the ordinary flower 
pot would answer the same purpose, and the cost would be but trifling, 
as the painting could be done in almost the same time that it takes to 
scrub a dirty pot. We paint tubs in which we grow plants, and no bad 
results follow. One of the finest specimen Heaths I ever saw was grown 
for many years by the late Mr. Dickson at Ferguslie House, Paisley, in a 
painted wooden tub ; so that I think there need be no fear of plants not 
thriving in painted earthenware pots.—H. Henderson, The Gardens , 
Woodbriage Par It, Guildford. 
VEGETABLES FOR WINTER SALADS. 
The culture of vegetables for salad purposes is by no means 
one of the least important of tbe duties devolving upon the 
gardener. Most cultivators are required to furnish a supply 
of salading during autumn, winter, and early spring; in some 
instances a constant supply in quantity and variety. Simple 
as this task may appear to those who have not hitherto been 
called upon to do so, it is not an easy one, requiring as it does 
the exercise of considerable skill and forethought in accom¬ 
plishing the object. A good salad ranks next in order to 
dessert, and in many establishments the former is required to 
consist of vegetables of first-rate quality. 
Having to maintain a daily supply for my employer’s table 
I will give your readers the benefit of my experience. First let 
us see what vegetables are required, and as seed lists are now to 
hand we should procure seeds of the following—Corn Salad 
(Italian) or Lamb’s Lettuce; Purslane, green and golden; 
Chicory (Witloof); Dandelion; Lettuce, All the Year Round, 
Hardy Hammersmith, and Brown Cos; Endive, Moss Curled 
and Improved Batavian; Radishes, Turnip and Long-rooted; 
Mustard, white; Cress, common and American, and I need 
scarcely add Celery and Beet. I will now proceed to describe 
their several methods of culture and after management. 
Corn Salad (Italian) or Lamb’s Lettuce. — Seeds of 
this should be sown about the end of July on a border for 
affording produce in September, and continued at intervals, 
according to the demand for it, until the end of October. 
Keep the soil moist, or the seed will not germinate satis¬ 
factorily. As soon as the young plants have formed their 
rough leaves they are fit for use; but should only one sowing 
be made and it is desired to have a moderate supply, then 
thin out for present use the smallest, leaving the strongest to 
form large branching plants for a later supply. When frost 
sets in these should be covered with spare lights, or, if these 
are not available, with dry litter or mats. Take care, however, 
if protected with the latter not to cover longer than is absolutely 
necessary, as the flavour is thereby impaired. By frequent 
sowings, as above recommended, a supply of this can be secured 
until May. 
Purslane. —There are two varieties of this, the green and 
the golden, seeds of which should be sown early in August. 
Successional sowings may also be made according to the demand. 
Purslane requires a copious supply of water, lacking which it 
becomes too tough for salads. It may, however, be used for 
cooking and serving up in the same manner as Spinach. It is 
ready for sa'ads as soo i as it is 3 i' ches high. An outdoor supply 
cannot be depended upon after October, therefore should any be 
required afterwards it is safest to sow a pinch either in a frame 
or in a box and placed under protection. 
Dandelion. —This is perhaps one of the easiest plants to 
cultivate, and one of the most troublesome pests when once it 
gets a firm hold in the garden. Seeds may be sown in spring in 
a spare corner of the garden, and in October the roots can be 
lifted and stored away for use till wanted. I commence forcing 
this in November, when roots are placed in any ordinary soil in 
a large deep box with a lid attached and perfectly dark. This 
box is placed under the stage of the forcing house, and in a 
couple of weeks the beautifully blanched and crisp leaves are 
ready for cutting. It is highly esteemed by my employers on 
account of the brisk agreeable flavour it imparts to the contents 
of the salad bowl. If sufficient roots are forthcoming, by intro¬ 
ducing batches into heat at intervals a supply can be kept up for 
a long time. 
Chicory. —One of the most valuable salad plants we possess 
for winter use, especially the variety known as Witloof, a more 
delicious and palatable form than the other varieties of Chicory. 
To have large crisp crowns, attention must be paid to the cultiva¬ 
tion of the roots when growing. The soil should be well trenched 
and manured, after which seeds should be sown in Aprd in drills 
a foot asunder, thinning out the young plants when large enough 
to handle to 9 inches apart in the row. Assist during their 
period of growth with occasional supplies of liquid or artificial 
manure. Lift the roots in October, and store aw r ay among sand 
in a cool shed until required for forcing. The roots may be 
forced in boxes similarly to the method recommended for Dande¬ 
lion, or by p itting a number of roots in a large pot and then 
placing an inverted flower pot over the crowns to exclude light, 
and standing it in a heated Mushroom or other warm house as 
most convenient. We, however, prefer the use of boxes as above 
recommended, as a much larger quantity of roots can be placed 
therein at one time. 
Lettuce. —As nearly every gardener can grow good Lettuces 
I shall not take up space by full details of its culture. To have 
a good supply during winter requires a little forethought in 
making the sowings and growing strong plants ready for taking 
up and storing in frames on the approach of frost. Much, too, 
depends upon the varieties grown for that purpose. Some, 
although good summer varieties, fail to answer satisfactorily for 
winter work. We have tried many varieties this last season, and 
find that there are no better Cabbage Lettuces than All the Year 
Round and Hardy Hammersmith for ending the winter. The 
be t Cos we find to be the Brown-seeded Bath. I sow the last 
week in July for the winter crop. As soon as the plants are 
large enough to handle they are pricked out on Celery ridges and 
watered carefully. When the plants are established, weekly 
supplies of soot water are given them to encourage free growth.. 
On the approach of frost they are lifted and stored in cold 
frames, which are well ventilated in cold weather. 
Thus far I have written of large plants; but when a month 
or so has advanced in the new year a change is sought for, and 
as a rule the old plants are not appreciated, having become some¬ 
what tough and deficient in flavour. How, then, is the difficulty 
to be overcome? I reply, By sowing a few pinches of surplus seed 
from last season; or, better still, the seed saved from a few 
plants allowed to seed in the summer. I take advantage of an 
inside border of an old Muscat house, and sow plots of three 
square I’ards at a time. This house is started early in tbe new 
year, when the border is slightly pricked over with a fork and 
manured ■with old hotbed refuse. In a few weeks after the seed 
is sown the young plants are 3 inches high, and are then fit 
for use. These are drawn up in little bunches, and are sent in 
with Mustard and Cress to form a salad. I grew a plot of 
Sutton’s Earliest Brown Forcing Lettuce last season in this 
manner, and my experience of it as a tender Lettuce for such a 
purpose has led me to grow more of it this spring. Sowings may 
be made at intervals until the season has sufficiently advanced 
to do so out of doors 
Radishes.— The varieties best adapted for early use are the 
Early White and Red Forcing Turnip-rooted, French Breakfast 
Olive-shaped, and Wood’s Early Frame Long-rooted. A slight, 
hotbed should be made with a few leaves and dung, the surface 
of the latter being covered ■with several inches of light rich soil, 
and as soon as the soil has become warm sow the seeds, after¬ 
wards slightly covering with soil and watering with tepid water.. 
Should cold weather intervene it may be found necessary to 
apply a lining of hot dung around the frame to support the 
temperature. If allowed to suffer from an insufficient supply of 
water the Radishes will become hot and tough and unfit for a 
good salad. 
Mustard and Cress. —These are indispensable constituents- 
of the winter salad bowl, and besides possess the merit of being 
easily grov n. As Cress, however, takes nearly double the time 
in germinating that Mustard does, only one sowing of the former 
need be made to a couple of the latter. Seed sown in shallow 
boxes in a gentle heat at intervals according to the quantity in 
request will secure an ample and constant supply. 
Endive.— This is one of the best of salad vegetables for 
autumn use. It supplies an agreeable change to the salad after 
the Lettuce, &c., of the summer months. In some establishments 
it is grown on a large scale, both for private consumption and fc r 
market. Some extraordinarily fine examples are to be oftirres 
