152 
JOOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 21, 1884. 
but not to the same advantage, neither is their foliage so good in 
appearance. Nevertheless, plants one year old cannot be grown to the 
size of old cut-backs, especially those of twenty or thirty years standing, 
neither are they so floriferous, and they require much more attention. 
Still, for conservatory work, with large staging and beds, I would grow 
both, the old plants for the back rows and the others for the front. 
When the flowering period of old plants is over stand them on a bed 
of ashes, fully exposed to sun and wind, to mature their wood. Give 
them little or no water, and should there be heavy rains lay them on 
their sides. Cut them back in August or September, and cut the old 
prunings to 2 or 3 inches long, and insert them after the manner of Rose 
•cuttings, only in a frame instead of outside. Stand the plants in a cold 
frame, and as they become dry sprinkle them with a rose. When they 
have made an inch or two of growth shake them out, shorten the longest 
Toots, and repot in a smaller size. Shake the plants when putting in the 
soil to cause it to settle amongst the roots. Many plants are ruined by 
omitting this process and allowing the roots to be massed in the centre. 
The compost should consist of two parts of good yellow fibry loam, half 
part well-decayed cow dung, half part leaf soil, and sufficient silver sand 
to make it porous. When potted place them in a good dry cold frame 
near to the glass. Water very sparingly, and with a rose. Do not damp 
the foliage. Close the lights, only give sufficient air to keep a dry 
atmosphere. In October the plants should be removed to a stage in a 
greenhouse or early vinery, as if left out too long they will become 
affected with the spot, and many of the weaker varieties will be seriously 
injured, and some killed. Ventilation should be given at this period of 
the year to keep them robust. 
To have them in flower early the most forward should be potted into 
■their largest pots by the end of October, and for a succession of batches 
a fortnight later than the preceding one. If possible all should be in 
their largest pots by the end of November. Those that are left over 
should be potted in February and March, which time those potted in the 
autumn and encouraged to make all the growth possible and rested 
during December and January, can be receiving a liberal supply of 
liquid manure, that from the stable pump preferred, one pint to three of 
•clear water, and syringe twice a day till the blooms open. To show 
•old cut-backs to advantage every shoot should be staked. Hazel twigs 
are the best adapted to this purpose, or where they are scarce prunings 
from Pear and Apple trees will be plentiful, and are very good. 
Cuttings for making one-year-old plants should be inserted in 
February, March, and April in a finely sifted compost of loam, leaf soil, 
and sand. When rooted pot them, and as the summer advances transfer 
them to a good light frame. They will require about two shifts, the 
same compost being used as before. Pay great attention to the pinching 
to get plenty of breaks, and a little liquid manure may be given. 
The presence of green fly will be most injurious to them, and should 
be kept down by slight fumigating. Syringe twice a" day, and close 
early, even if it is necessary to again open the ventilators and leave them 
open all night. Transfer the plants to the house with the old cut-backs, 
•and treat them the same, except in the pinching, which must be regulated 
to induce them to flower late.— A Foreman. 
RUBUS ROSiEFOLIUS CORONARIUS. 
This is a free-growing and free-fiowering plant of the easiest 
culture. Its growths are erect, but as there is a difference in the 
length of the shoots that spring each year from the base or stool it 
forms a compact plant of somewhat rounded pyramidal shape, and 
well furnished with growths to the base. The foliage is ample, and 
ns fresh growths accompany the flowers it is attractive from its lively 
green colour, the old leaves having become somewhat sere ere the 
flowers are produced. It flowers from the points of the shoots, and 
every axil of the leaves on the stem down to very near the base 
pushes a growth, which is terminated by a flower, the plant when 
well grown being close-jointed. The flowers are elegantly formed, pure 
white and double, but with a notable eye, yet not detracting from its 
decorative value, and are about 2 inches across. It flowers more or 
less throughout the year, but is at its best during the early spriDg 
months when in a greenhouse. It can, however, be readily forced, 
and may be had in flower from early winter by having relays of 
plants introduced at intervals Altogether it is a very elegant plant 
for the greenhouse, having the aspect of a small-growing Bramble 
with leaves similar to a Rose. 
It may be grown and flowered in 6-inch pots if well fed with 
liquid manure during the season of growth ; but to see it in character 
it requires more root room, the size of the pots being as a matter of 
course regulated according to the size of the root-formation, as, for 
instance, a plant that flowered this year in a 6-inch pot will need a 
pot 3 or 4 inches larger in the next, and so on each year until very 
fine specimens can be had in the second and third year, when they 
are as large as need be for ordinary purposes, and by reducing the 
ball at potting time the plants can be kept in the same size pot for 
any length of time. Its growths are annual—made one season and 
flower the next, so that the old shoots should be cut out after the 
plant has flowered, not being in too great a hurry, however, as there 
is reason to believe that the old growths feed the young ones that 
spring from the base for at least a time. 
The best time to repot this plant is as soon as the flowering is 
over and young growths are appearing. The old soil should be 
picked from the sides of the ball, reducing it somewhat, but not to a 
greater extent than a third, returning the plant to the same size of 
pot or a little larger, and when it has rooted freely transfer to the 
flowering pot; or instead of this it may be well fed when in free growth. 
Good turfy loam, with a fifth of old thoroughly decayed manure and 
a little sand will grow it well, good drainage being given, as it is a 
plant that requires copious supplies of water. No stopping, train¬ 
ing, staking, or tying is necessary. It is a native of the Himalayas, 
Burmah, &c., and though not new was but little known until brought 
out by Messrs. Veitch. As a decorative plant and for cutting from 
it deserves extended culture. Propagation is effected by suckers or 
cuttings of the shoots that spring from the base after they become 
a little firm.—G. Abbey. 
HARDY PLANTS AND THEIR SYNONYMS. 
I quite agree with. “ Specialist ” that great confusion exists regard¬ 
ing the names of hardy plants, and if some of the correspondents of 
the Journal would give a few names of plants occasionally with their 
more popular synonyms, such, I am sure, would be greatly welcomed by 
many a reader of the Journal, which I am pleased to see is giving us so 
much useful information on hardy herbaceous plants. Great advan¬ 
tages accrue from being made familiar with the synonyms of plants, 
as it very often prevents us making unnecessary purchases, and sub¬ 
sequent disappointment. Suppose I make a speciality of Phloxes. 
P. reptans, like many others, does well with me, and the fact of this 
is great inducement to add other species to my already good and 
flourishing collection. In looking over my catalogues I meet with the 
name of one apparently new to me—namely, Phlox stolonifera. I 
purchase a plant, which on its arrival proves, to my great surprise, 
identical with my P. reptans. These unlooked-for disappointments can 
best be diminished by making ourselves better acquainted with plant 
nomenclature, and much credit is due to “ Specialist ” for so boldly 
setting us the example. I will volunteer my mite towards supplementing 
the list given by him, but before doing so allow me to draw attention 
to a few errors in “ Specialist’s ” list. For instance, how can Achillea 
serrata be confounded with Achillea Ptarmica, or Campanula larnii- 
folia with C. alliariaefolia ? I regard them as species very remote from 
each other. Androsace seDtentrionalis we must regard as a well-marked 
species very distinct from A. lactiflora, which latter is synonymous 
with A. coronopifolia (Andr.), the name generally kept up, and under 
which it is figured and described in the “ Botanical Magazine.”— 
Practical. 
I have read with much interest the articles on “ Synonyms of Hardy 
Plants ” in your valuable Journal, and I remarked in your last number 
that your correspondent finds Campanula fragilis alba a difficult plant 
to grow. I have a starry white Campanula, purchased under the name 
of C. isophylla alba, which, if not the same, is extremely similar to 
C. fragilis alba, and a most valuable plant for hanging baskets in a 
conservatory. I find it increase freely in a damp place out of doors, and 
the main stock will do well grown so and potted as required.—L. B. 
ELECTION OF CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES. 
THE ELECTORS’ RETURNS. 
[The names of the raisers of the varieties in the following lists have been given in 
the previous returns.] 
From Mr. George Geggie, Bury. 
Scarlet Bizarres. 
Admiral Curzon 
Mercury 
Arthur Medhurst 
Fred 
Alfred Hudson 
Robert Lord 
Crimson Bizarres. 
Master Fred 
J. D. Hextall 
Rifleman 
Lord Milton 
Lord Raglan 
John Simonite 
Pink and Purple Bizarres. 
Eccentric Jack 
William Skirving 
Sarah Payne 
Falcon bridge 
James Taylor 
Squire Penson 
Purple Flakes. 
Dr. Foster 
James Douglas 
Florence Nightingale 
Earl of Milton 
Earl of Stamford 
Juno 
Scarlet Flakes. 
Sportsman 
Clipper 
James Cheetham 
0 ohn Ball 
Ivanhoe 
Scarlet Keet 
Rose Flakes. 
John Keet 
James Merryweather 
Mrs. Dodwell 
Sybil 
Tim Bobbin 
Cristigala 
PICOTEES. 
Heavy Purple-edged. 
Zerlina 
Alliance 
Muriel 
Mrs. A. Chancellor 
Tinnie 
Mrs. Rivers 
Light Purple-edged. 
Ann Lord 
Minnie 
Clara Penson 
Mary 
Nymph 
Baroness Burdett Coutts 
