156 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 2 L, 18S3. 
the plants in free growth. A genial condition of the atmosphere must be 
maintained by sprinkling available surfaces— i.e., the walls, paths, &c., and 
as they become dry, or in the morning and afternoon, and on bright days the 
plants may also be sprinkled in the morning and early afternoons. On 
bright mornings admit a little air at 7-5°, keep through the day at 80° to 85° 
from sun heat, closing at 85° and run up to 90°, maintaining a night 
temperature of 70°. Keep a sharp look-out for slugs. See that the 
linings of dung-heated Melon frames are attended to as they rpquire it, 
which under ordinary circumstances will be about every ten days or a 
fortnight, varying of course with the weather and the condition of the 
materials when the bed is made up. 
_ Strawberries in Pots .—The mild winter is now making itself con¬ 
spicuous in the results, and the forward vegetation will need protection 
where it is at all practicable. Where large quantities of Strawberries are 
forced it becomes necessary, where frames are not available, to erect some 
sort of protection of a temporary character that will meet the likelihood of 
injury being done to the tender young growths from the frost or wind. It 
will therefore be advisable to have all plants that are showing growth 
collected together and protected from the effects of probable inclement 
weather. Those intended for a late supply will be best accommodated in 
pits and frames behind a north wall, for when kept in a favourable aspect 
for growth they are apt to start before they are required, and thereby 
interfere with the arrangement for succession. The whole stock should 
now be examined, the surface soil removed without interfering too much 
with the roots, and be top-dressed with short manure, which encourages 
surface roots, and the drainage being seen to and if defective rectified, a 
healthy condition of growth will result. 
With an increase of light the temperature for plants that are swelling 
their fruit may be raised considerably, but it ought not for the present to 
exceed 85° at closing time, accompanied by plenty of moisture. Where a 
quantity of plants is forced and a constant succession must be kept up, it 
is imperative to set apart a house for the swelling-off of the crops, so that 
the plants that have fruited can be recruited from the ranks of plants in 
other houses in rotation. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Zonal Pelargoniums .—Those plants that were placed in .5-inch and 
6 -inch pots in autumn, and have been wintered near to the glass in a 
temperature of 45° to 50° should now be dwarf and sturdy. These if 
placed in a house 5° or 10° higher at night will soon flower. Keep them 
dwarf and sturdy by the admission of air daily, and have the atmo¬ 
sphere in which they are placed rather dry. Water carefully, but as 
soon as the flower trusses are visible give weak stimulants every time they 
require water. A good number of dwarf plants may be selected for flowering 
again from amongst those that ceased flowering in autumn and early 
winter if they have been properly cared for since then to the present time. 
Those required to flower as early as possible should not be cut back or 
stopped, but placed close to the glass in a night temperature of 45°, and as 
soon as they show their flowers they may be treated as advised above. If 
in small pots they may be given a small shift as soon a 3 they commence 
flowering, but we prefer feeding them. Another batch of dwarf plants 
may be partially cut back, and when they have commenced growth should 
have their roots reduced and placed in the same size pots. A good position 
to start them in after cutting back is a shelf in a vinery or Peach house. Do 
not give too much water until they break, but syringe occasionally. Those 
plants that have become tall and have been kept dry to harden their wood 
may now be pruned close back and placed in gentle heat until they break ; 
when the atmosphere is not too moist, do not give much water, but syringe 
occasionally. 
Young stock rooted in autumn and wintered in 2-inch and 3-inch pots 
on a shelf near to the glass in the greenhouse should now be placed in 
4-inch and 5-inch pots. Give them a temperature of 50° until they com¬ 
mence rooting, and then grow them under cool conditions. If the stock 
has to be increased of either double or single varieties, cuttings inserted 
singly in small pots will now root readily on a shelf in a temperature 
of 60°. * 
Cinerarias .—These plants are in good condition this season, and the 
winter has suited them exactly, for they do not like fire heat, which often 
during severe winters, has to be employed to exclude frost. There is 
nothing that proves so injurious to these plants as fire heat, and it should 
always be avoided as much as possible. Fortunately very little has been 
needed, and therefore they should generally be in good condition. The 
mildness of the weather has brought them forward more rapidly than 
could, have been wished, for many of the latest batch have commenced 
showing their flower stems, which are advancing rapidly. These 
may be removed to a cold frame, which should be ventilated as liberally as 
possible to keep them back, but be careful to place them where frost can 
be excluded. Feed liberally all plants that are coming into flower, and be 
careful that they do not suffer from an insufficient supply of water at their 
roots. Watch for aphides, and on its first appearance fumigate with 
tobacco smoke, or they will increase rapidly and soon spoil the plants and 
flowers. 
Calceolarias .—The most forward plants are in good condition for 
placing into 6, 7, and 8-inch pots where large plants are required. The 
smaller plants may be repotted on as they require if, and will do much 
better in cold frames where frost can be excluded than what they will 
upon shelves or in large dry houses. These plants should never occupy 
such positions in any stage of development, for they delight to stand 
upon some moisture-holding material. Employ for a compost three 
parts of fibry loam, the other part being composed of leaf mould and pre¬ 
pared cow manure rubbed through a fine sieve, add sufficient sand to 
make the whole porous, and a 5-inch potful of soot to each barrowful 
of soil. These plants are much subject to attacks of aphides, which on 
their appearance must be at once destroyed. 
Lilivm candidum .—Where these are grown in pots do not over-force 
them, or their flowers if produced will be small. When the flower stems 
are advanced about 18 inches remove them to a cool house or where the 
temperature is not higher than 45° at night; ventilate freely, and feed 
liberally as soon as the flowers are set. No Lily is superior to this fer 
cultivation in pots for early flowering. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND 
Pruning Climbers .—The various hardy plants employed for covering 
the walls of dwelling houses and other similar positions are, when once 
their allotted space is covered, too often allowed to grow at random. Unless 
annually pruned and the main stems nailed or tied up, they soon bepome 
mere thickets of growth, and instead of being decorative are more often 
extremely unsightly. 
Roses .—All such as are growing in sheltered positions, if pruned at 
once, will in all probability afford abundance of early blooms. Mardchal 
Niel and the Banksians require similar treatment, both flowering at nearly 
every joint throughout the strong growths formed during the previous 
summer. Thin out these growths and all spray in order to secure the 
requisite number of shoots for the following season’s display, and neatly 
lay in the remainder, all the pruning these require being merely the 
removal of weakly or unripened points. Teas and Noisettes, including 
the popular Gloire de Dijon, should have strong leading growths laid in 
where required, weakly growth hard pruned to induce the formation of 
stronger flowering wood, and the remainder shortened back to three or four 
buds, or according to their vigour. Hybrid Perpetuals, Bourbon, and 
China Roses may he similarly treated. 
Wistaria sinensis .—These are generally trained similarly to horizontal 
Pear trees. Where necessary, lay in the single leading growths, the 
unripened ends only being shortened, and spur back all the remaining 
strong lateral growths, this resulting in the formation of flowering spurs. 
They should not be crowded, and each main branch ought to be not less 
than 10 inches apart. 
Chimonanthes fragrans .—The flowers of this deciduous shrub are borne 
principally on the spray, and to secure this lay in strong ripened shoots as 
much as possible, and these next season will produce flowers at every 
joint. Cut back all strong lateral growth directly after flowering, but not 
too severely, and this was also result in the formation of more spray. 
Pyrus japonica and Cratcegus Pgracantha .—Neither of these flower 
freely if allowed to grow into thickets, which the latter especially is apt to 
do. Any that are in this state should be cut hard back, and if the young 
shoots resulting are thinned out or laid in, these during the second spring 
following will have flowering spurs at every joint, and very beautiful they 
will prove, the Crataegus subsequently developing into wreaths of showy 
berries. Any not much crowded will yet be improved by being shortened 
back, and lay in the long shoots formed last summer wherever possible. 
Jasminnm nudiflorum and Porsythia viridissima .—Both these 
flower on the young shoots formed during the previous summer, and to 
secure abundance of these directly after the flowering period is past, cut 
the whole of the lateral growth hard back, only laying in any where space 
is yet to be covered. The Forsythia is the latest, and ought to be as com¬ 
mon as the Jasmine. The common Jasmine (J. officinale), to be closely 
cut back to the main branches, the flowers being borne on the points of the 
many young shoots resulting. 
Clematises —The early-flowering sorts, such as Albert Victor, montana. 
Lord Londesborough, lanuginosa, and varieties produce their lovely flowers 
at nearly every joint of the strong growths formed during the previous 
season ; these, therefore, should be merely thinned out where required, 
those reserved shortened where weakly, and neatly laid in. Those of the 
C. Jackmannii type, including rubro-violacea, rubella, tunbridgensis, Prince 
of Wales, and Alexandra, flower from the current year’s growth, and to 
secure the requisite number of strong shoots freely thin out the old or last 
season’s wood, and shorten back those reserved to within a few joints of 
their starting point. 
Loniceras.— The Japanese and golden-variegated varieties should be 
freely cut in to the main branches and plenty of bloom will follow. Ivies 
also should have all loose growth cut hard back to the main stems, and 
any of the latter not firmly attached to the walls should be secured with, 
shred and nails. 
Magnolias .—The large evergreen sorts should merely have the long 
straggling shoots laid in and the fastenings to the main stems renewed 
where required, as strong winds have much power over these large-leaved 
shrubs. The deciduous varieties form short flowering spurs, and all that 
is necessary in their case is to cut back any strong lateral shoots. 
Ceanothuses also to be freely cut back, these flowering on the current 
year’s growth. Passifloras to have all old flowering growths cut back to- 
the m iin stem 3 , and Fuchsias and Aloysia citriodora to be either cut down 
or spurred-in to the main growths. 
Planting .—It is not yet too late to plant any of the plants mentioned, 
especially as the majority are supplied in pots. Form a good border, 
digging deeply and manuring freely, and well ram the soil about the balls 
of roots. Mulch with short manure or leaf soil, and never let them become 
dry at the roots. 
Culture of Poinsettias. —In answer to your correspondent, Mr. 
J. Sanderson, in the Journal of February 7th, page 105, I agree that 
they require a higher temperature where he is situated than they do in 
Sussex. The bracts on Mr. Sanderson’s plants must be extremely 
