February 28, 18S4. j 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
16B 
growing varieties, will be sufficient space between the rows. They should 
be turned out of the pots carefully, having previously placed a short stick 
and a piece of matting to each plant for support, and planted with the 
garden trowel 9 or 12 inches asunder in the row, disturbing the roots as 
little as possible in the operation. This being done, a little soil should be 
drawn up to the plants on each side, and then a mixture of lime and soot 
strewn on each side the ranks of Peas as a protect 1 on against the ravages 
sf slugs ; then stick them in the ordinary way, putting the two rows of 
spray sticks sufficiently close to each other to prevent the haulm sway¬ 
ing, and if necessary stick a few Spruce boughs in the ground on the cold 
side of the rows for a few days until the Peas are completely inured to 
the weather. After this, in the absence of frost or cutting winds, which 
are almost as injurious to the young haulms as frost, they should be 
removed.—H. W. W. 
PAINTED versus GLAZED POTS. 
Referring to Mr. Henderson’s remarks (page 143), I think if he will 
consider that glazed pots can be manufactured at a cost of one-fourth 
more per cast than ordinary pots he will not have much difficulty in con¬ 
cluding that to put two coats of oil paint on ordinary pots (taking labour 
and material into the count) will be the more expensive of the two 
processes; besides, the constant moisture both inside and outside would 
soon destroy the paint. I have tried the silicate process (dipping the 
pots in silicate), which so filled up the pores that the pots did not get so 
soon dirty and green as under ordinary circumstances ; but this is all that 
I can say for the process. I am quite satisfied that if the owners of 
private gardens could be persuaded once to substitute the glazed pot for 
the common one they would never begrudge the trifling cost nor revert 
to the old dirty pot. Let the demand spring up, and it will be odd if 
makers do not come into the field who may make glazed pots even 
cheaper than I have indicated.—D. Thomson. 
I have tried the plan of painting flower pots, as suggested by Mr. H. 
Henderson, with body paint, and decorated them with flowers, &c., of the 
same material. They look well, and have sold well at local bazaars. A 
pleasant employment for young gardeners to try their hand at artistic 
work. But when the pots have plants in them, and regularly watered, I 
find the paint shells off, so they would have to be used with another pot 
dropped into them. I supply the cottagers with plants for their windows, 
and their plan is to give the pots a dressing of red lead and milk. These 
pots come at times to be refilled, and I find they keep their colour and 
seem to stand the moisture. 
Painted tubs, as stated by Mr. Henderson, answer well with me, as I 
have red and white Lapagerias, Oranges, Pasrifloras, Tecomas, &c., in 
them, all growing with the greatest luxuriance.— Black Prince. 
NEPENTHES. 
For decorative purposes Pitcher plants have a peculiar fitness ; 
their unique and elegant appearance renders them particularly attrac¬ 
tive when general plants would be passed without comment. The 
prevailing idea that they require to be kept in health by a high tem¬ 
perature and an atmosphere saturated with moisture is being slowly 
exploded. The cooler treatment to which they are proved to be 
amenable is likely to open up a wide field for the employment of these 
plants for the decoration of the dining table, and especially for group¬ 
ing with other plants in halls, corridors, and staircases at party times. 
A short sojourn in such positions not exactly suitable does them no 
great harm provided they have been grown in a cooler and some¬ 
what drier treatment for a brief period before being subjected to the 
ordeal of decoration in the house. 
The present time is a suitable one to attend to their requirements, 
no plants better rewarding the care bestowed on them. Small plants 
will need a shift into larger pots. If in a 3-inch pot a 5 or 6-inch 
pot will be a sufficient shift, and those in larger pots will need corre¬ 
spondingly larger sizes, always provided the plants are in a healthy 
condition at the roots. Good drainage, although Nepenthes are semi- 
aquatic, is of great importance. It should be about a third the depth 
of the pots, having the largest crocks at the bottom, finishing with the 
smallest, securing with a layer of sphagnum, or preferably lumpy 
peat, the dust being shaken out a3 the peat is pulled in pieces. Brown 
fibrous peat pulled to pieces, the coarse roots picked out, and those 
with the smaller particles of the peat rejected, fibrous lumps only 
being used for potting. Sphagnum does no good, as, mixed with the 
peat, it soon decays and becomes sour, but a few broken crocks and 
pieces of charcoal in various sizes keep the material open and sweet. 
If sphagnum be employed at all it is best as a live covering for the 
surface. In potting remove all the soil not occupied with roots, and 
though as much of this as can be picked out from the roots as can be 
done without injuring them, there must not be any attempt at disroot¬ 
ing. Pot rather firmly, and dash a little coarse silver sand on the 
surface when the potting is completed. 
The best mode of growing and displaying Nepenthes is in basket*, 
for which teak is the best material ; 1-inch square strips with the 
edges bevelled answer for the largest Bize, which may be about a foot 
square and about 6 inches deep. This size will accommodate the 
largest specimens, the depth being proportionate to the size. Lumpy 
peat as above described is the proper material for basketing. If 
it be not deairable to shift into larger baskets the old sour material 
should be removed and fresh supplied, also in shifting into larger 
baskets or new remove as much of the old material as practicable 
without injuring the roots. If the baskets are neatly lined and sur¬ 
faced with live sphagnum it will add to their appearance. 
There is no disputing the luxuriance Nepenthes attain in a high 
temperature with plenty of atmospheric moisture and shade, and it is 
also certain the growth is lank, the pitchers lacking the size, sub¬ 
stance, colour and durability of those formed iu a lower temperature, 
and shade only to prevent scorching. At night 60° to 65° is ample, 
and 70° to 75° by day, and 80° to 90° with sun during the growing 
season, and when at rest 55° to 60° at night, and 5° to 10° rise by day 
according to the weather. 
They must never become dry at the roots, and when growing 
w r ater can scarcely be given too copiously provided it be soft and 
warm and percolates through the compost freely, passing away as 
if through a sieve. Atmospheric moisture must be maintained by 
damping available surfaces two or three times a day, and the plants 
also when growing, more especially at closing time, which should be 
early, air being given early in the day. It is essential that there be 
no heavy syringings, but gentle sprinklings, and a little water kept 
in the pitchers will assist them to retain their freshness. The 
nearer the plants are to the glass the stouter will be their texture, 
and this, with plenty of light, will afford finer and better-coloured 
pitchers than those grown at a distance from the glass and heavily 
shaded, besides adding to their usefulness for decorative purposes 
through their firmer and more persistent texture. When at rest 
lessened supplies of water and moisture are needed, but a sharp 
look-out must be kept for thrips, which should be at once expelled. 
In the spring or about March the majority of the plants will 
need shortening, as they are apt to become tall or straggling, which 
will have the effect of producing new growths at the base as well as 
increasing their number, and it is on these new growths that the 
best pitchers are formed. The part3 removed may be utilised as 
cuttings— i.e., the firm part of the shoots, for the soft-growing points 
are unsuitable, it being the firm wood only that will root and push 
growth freely. Three at most, or, if the cuttings be scarce, two 
joints, are quite sufficient for a cutting. These should be placed in 
equal parts of fibrous peat, small charcoal or small crocks, and chopped 
sphagnum, with a sprinkling of sand, or the}'' "will strike freely in 
cocoa-nut fibre refuse, placing them in a frame where there is a brisk 
heat, and they will root slowly but surely. The leaves may be 
shortened about half or be tied-up loosely. It is essential that they 
be kept moist. When the cuttings have rooted they should be 
gradually inured to the atmosphere of the house and the lessened 
temperature, and then transferred to larger pots, or preferably small 
baskets in peat fibre, suspending from the roof of the stove, giving 
them plenty of moisture, and keeping a sharp look-out for thrips, 
which, allowed to have their own way, will spoil the appearance of 
the plants. For general usefulness N. Chelsoni, N. Hookeriana, 
and N. Rafflesiana are probably the best. N. sanguinea is very 
desirable, and such forms as N. ampullacea vittata, N. albo-marginata, 
N. Dominii, N. hybrida, N. gracilis major, N. maculata, and N. inter¬ 
media are very effective.—G. Abbey. 
THE USE OF SPRING WATER IN GLASS STRUCTURES. 
It seems almost superfluous to affirm that the use of spring water, 
whether as applied to the roots or the foliage of fruit trees and other 
plauts under glass, is at least a very objectionable practice. It is, however, 
a well-known fact that many have no other source of supply, and are 
therefore compelled to use it almost constantly. In some districts such 
water is especially dangerous owing, as Mr. Abbey has remarked, to the 
injurious mineral substances it contains, notably when much iron or lime 
are present. With these facts in view it was with no feeling of complacency 
that I found myself last season compelled to resort to spring water as a 
main supply. The probable event in particular of the inroads of the 
usual insect pests created uncomfortable forebodings, well knowing that 
the limited supply of rain water at my disposal would prove a serious 
obstruction in dealing effectually with the enemy with the syringe. I am, 
however, glad to say that my apprehensions were not realised, at least to 
any great degree ; for although the foliage of Beach trees in particular was 
not so healthy for a short time as I could have wished, there is no 
evidence of the present year’s crop of fruit being endangered, the same 
giving promise of being at least equal to last year’s, which was more than 
an average one. Referring to root-waterings, I resolved to reduce the 
necessity for these to a minimum, and accordingly had all the inside 
Vine and Peach borders mulched on the surface with a few inches of 
farmyard manure. One large span-roofed vinery border was covered 
with cowdung owing to the greater extent of glass surface exposed to the 
sun. Unless when forced to do so in order to combat insect life I 
never syringe Vines after they are fairly started. Last season, the foliage 
being healthy at all times, I am glad our spring water did not require to 
be tested further than damping surfaces and watering the borders. 
