198 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 6, 1884. 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should never 
send more than two or three questions at once. All articles in¬ 
tended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper 
only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we 
do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Books ( Young Gardener). —The work you name is now out of print, and 
can only be obtained from dealers in second-hand books, or, failing this, 
possibly by advertising for a copy, but we believe it is not very readily 
procurable. (J. C.).— Our stock of “ Vines at Longleat ” is all sold. We do 
not know whether Mr. Taylor intends preparing another edition or not. 
Dendrobium nobile not Flowering (M. II.). —As the plants grow well 
but produce flowers sparsely the pseudo-bulbs are probably not well ripened. 
After the plants have made their growth place them as near the glass as 
possible in a warm light house, only giving sufficient water to prevent the 
leaves flagging, and affording very light shade, and this only if needed to 
prevent scorching. Carry out this practice intelligently, and we think 
the plants will flower. From 1 to 2 fluid ozs. of petroleum well mixed in a 
gallon of water by constant and violent agitation will destroy scale on 
Camellias. It is not less effectual if mixed in a solution of soft soap or 
Gishurst compound. 
Duke of Buccleuch Grape (J. M. B .).—We have never seen finer ex¬ 
amples of this noble Grape than on Vines established on their own roots, 
but we doubt not that a healthy stock of the Muscat of Alexandria would 
prove a good foster parent for the variety in question. Mr. Dewar of Beech- 
wood has found it to succeed w 7 ell on West’s St. Peter’s, as one rod of the 
Duke inarched on that variety produced twelve bunches, the lightest weigh¬ 
ing 2 lbs. 8 ozs., and the heaviest 41 tbs, From one bunch the berries with¬ 
out the stalks weighed 2^ ozs. 
Mushroom Beds in Shed (Uxbridge). — Mushrooms will grow equally 
well on flat beds a foot deep, or as ridges in a shed. With one bed 4 feet 
wide down each side of the shed you would have a bearing surface of 
80 square feet; with lean-to beds 2 feet wide against the walls, and a central 
ridge 8 feet wide down the centre, the sloping sides of the ridges 3 feet high, 
you would have a bearing surface of 160 square feet; this, however, could 
be equalled by having two tiers of flat beds along each side of the shed, as is 
customary in Mushroom houses, one bed being on the floor and the other 2 or 
3 feet above it in a strong -wooden bin. The manure requires the same pre¬ 
paration whether it is to be formed into ridges or flat beds. These latter are 
not suitable for the open air unless they can be effectually sheltered from 
heavy rains. 
Swarm of Insects (I?. G.). —The insects forwarded belong to that com¬ 
mon species Julus terrestris, one of the snake millepedes. This and other 
species in the genus, when they occur in gardens, feed both upon animal and 
vegetable substances. They devour slugs and snails, also soft-bodied insects, 
&c., and especially visit diseased or decaying roots. But as it seems to be 
undeniable that these millepedes will attack healthy plants, they must be 
placed upon the list of our garden foes. The bulbs of Lilies have been 
observed to be seriously damaged by them, also the roots of Primroses and 
Heartsease, and various vegetables, Potatoes, Cabbages, and Beans for 
instance.- As the texture of the insect renders it hard to kill without using 
applications that are likely to damage plants, trapping them has been ad¬ 
vised. Numbers will creep into little pots filled with horse-droppings or 
decayed roots, and they may also be captured by laying about scraped-out 
Potatoes and Apples. 
Ribbon-border Arrangement (W. B. E .).—The flowers you have are 
sufficient for several combinations of colour. If the border is to be looked at 
from one side only, then begin in front with—1, Cerastium ; 2, Alternanthera ; 
8, Blue Lobelia ; 4, Flower of Spring Pelargonium with the flowers kept picked 
off ; 5, Pink Pelargonium ; 6, Golden Bronze Pelargonium ; and 7, Iresine Lin- 
deni, which gives a soft, chaste, yet lively combination of grey, carmine, blue, 
white, pink, dark brown and yellow, and deep crimson. Or for a bolder but 
equally harmonious effect take—1, Alternanthera , 2, Cerastium ; 3, Lobelia ; 
4, Scarlet Pelargonium ; 5, Flower of Spring Pelargonium with the flowers kept 
picked off ; 6, Iresine ; and 7, Yellow Calceolaria. But if the border stands 
out upon the lawn, and is approached from all sides, then there must be a 
balance of colour on each side m this way—a central row of pink Pelargonium, 
a row of Flower of Spring Pelargonium on eachside of it, followed by rows of 
blue Lobelia, and with Cerastium. outside; or yellow Calceolaria for the 
central row, Iresine on each side of it, Lobelia next, and Alternanthera outside. 
Lime Water (IF. II.). —It is immaterial what quantity of lime you use* 
If you place a lump weighing half a pound in four gallons of water that will 
be quite sufficient, and if you place in twice the quantity the lime water will 
be no stronger. If there is any sediment of lime at the bottom of the vessel 
it is proof that the lime water is strong enough, and as strong as it can be 
made.. It must be used perfectly clear, and will then be quite safe for the 
majority of .plants, and will bring out any worms that may be in the soil; 
but we hesitate to incur the responsibility of advising you to apply it to 
“Azaleas worth £s a piece,” as we have heard of its injuring Azaleas, and 
we should try its effects on a small plant or two of little or no value’ and 
wait a few weeks for the effects before using to a number of larger specimens 
Perhaps some of our readers who may have applied lime to Azaleas for eradi¬ 
cating worms will state their experience as to its efficacy and safety or other¬ 
wise. We do not remember receiving any soil from you ; however, as your 
plants are doing well the omission is of no consequence. We shall be glad 
to see flowers of your Primulas. Embed them in a little damp moss, and 
send in a small wood or tin box, so that they may arrive fresh and uninjured 
Grafting Wax (F. J .).—There are various preparations used in grafting 
fruit trees. Some of the mastics require to be used warm, but the following 
may be prepared and used without being heated :—Yellow wax, 1 lb. • tur¬ 
pentine, 1 lb.; Burgundy pitch, 8 ozs.; mutton suet, 4 ozs. Melt all together 
and mix thoroughly, and leave them to cool. Form the mas3 into small 
balls, as it will not stick to the fingers, and use them when opportunity offers. 
Liquid grafting wax is a very useful application, and is, perhaps, the most 
convenient for the purpose of all the mastics used for covering wounds and 
grafting. It is of the consistency of varnish, and is applied very thinly with 
a brush. Care must be taken not to lay it on thickly, for the surface hardens 
so rapidly the alcohol is prevented from evaporating. R.osin, 1 lb. ; beef 
tallow, 1 oz.; spirits of turpentine, one tablespoonful; alcohol (95 per cent.), 
6 ozs. Melt the rosin over a slow fire ; when melted take it off and add the 
beef tallow, stirring it constantly; let it cool down somewhat, mix the 
spirits of turpentine little by little with it, and at last the alcohol in the same 
way. Should the alcohol be added while the mass is too hot much will be 
lost by rapid evaporation ; if, on the contrary, it is too cool, it will form a 
viscid lump, and must be slightly heated again. Stirring briskly is indispen¬ 
sable to mix the ingredients thoroughly. In well-corked bottles it keeps for 
years. If in course of time it becomes too thick, the addition of some 
alcohol will make it liquid again. For this purpose it must always be 
warmed. It is a good plan to put the bottle containing it in boiling or hot 
water to accomplish this. They are generally used in preference to clay in 
nurseries where grafting is extensively carried on, because more expeditious ; 
but where only a few trees are grafted well-prepared clay answers every 
purpose. 
Wood Ashes (Suffolk Boy, Quebec). —We have no analyses of the wood 
to which you refer. The injury caused by the excessive use of the ashes 
was due to caustic potash. As to the quantity to use beneficially for differ¬ 
ent crops no one can determine this so well as yourself. The same quantity 
that you used with benefit to Carrots will be equally serviceable for Pota¬ 
toes and most other garden crops, including Vines and fruit trees. For dress¬ 
ing young seedlings the ashes should be mixed with sand or dry soil to the 
extent of one-half, more or less, as you may find satisfactory. You ask for 
information that can only be obtained by experiments, and in this country 
the materials are not present for determining the points in question. 
Vine Roots Cankered (G. S.). —You ask simply, “What is wrong with 
the Vine roots, cause and cure ?” The brevity of your letter indicates that 
you prefer a brief reply, and in the absence of data to guide us we can only 
say that there is probably some corroding substance in the border, and the 
remedy is fresh and suitable soil. 
Peach Buds not Swelling (J. L., Sussex ).— Nearly all the buds are dead 
but what has caused them to dry up no one can tell without knowing the 
treatment which the trees have received during the past season. We can 
only say the growths are extremely poor and immature, but this is scarcely 
sufficient to account for the withering of the buds. Drought at the roots, a 
bad attack of red spider on the foliage, or dressing the stems with a strong 
insecticide, are calculated to have a disastrous effect on the buds. Whether 
we have indicated the cause in your case we have no means of knowing, but 
if the shoots sent are fair examples of the trees we have no hesitation in 
saying they have been either neglected or mismanaged in someway or other. 
The temperature has been too high, but that is not the cause of the evil m 
question. 
Potting Azaleas and Camellias (J/. R .).—You will find the information 
you require on potting Azaleas on page 176 last week. Pay particular 
attention to the instructions there given to pot firmly, and to the condition 
of the roots as to moisture at the time of potting. Repotting these plants 
when the soil in the pots is either very dry or very wet, or of saturating the 
fresh compost immediately after it is used, is fatal to success. See also our 
reply to “J. M.” on page 178. The particular compost for and time for 
repotting Camellias depends very much on the condition of the plants. On 
this subject we cite from an article published in the Journal last -j^ar :— 
Potting is best done in early spring just as the plants are commencing 
growth, or trying to do so, by those who have a stove or other structure 
where the temperature ranges from 55° to 85°, and where syringing can be done 
freely and a moist atmosphere maintained. Those who have not such con¬ 
venience, but possess a vinery in which the Vines start in a natural manner, 
may repot their Camellias when the Vine leaves fairly cover the roof, as the 
temperature suitable for Vines at that stage and onwards will be also suit¬ 
able for the plants under notice. If the pots can be placed on a bed of 
leaves or other moist base it will be decidedly advantageous to the plants. 
With only a greenhouse at disposal the repotting should be deferred until 
the night temperature is 60° or thereabouts, and the plants should be grouped 
where they can be kept as close as«possible, also shaded. This with light 
syringings will lessen the necessity for frequently watering the soil, and 
healthy root-action will be the sooner reduced. A good guide for repotting 
Camellias when there vms not the requisite convenience for dealing with 
them before, is when the young growths cease to extend, and just as the 
last-formed leaves are attaining their full size ; but the longer the potting 
is deferred the greater must be the care in preserving the healthy roots and 
preventing them drying; also the greater is the necessity for heat, shade, 
and moisture for effecting the recovery of the plants. As to soil, take half 
rather light but decidedly turfy loam containing no lime, the remaining half 
to consist of very fibrous Heath or Azalea peat—not bog—and leaf soil from 
leaves that have not fermented ; mark the condition. To this add crushed 
charcoal and silver sand liberally, say together, so as to form an eighth part 
of the bulk. Mix the whole thoroughly. If this compost will not incite the 
production of roots nothing will. 
Bulbs after Flowering (Idem). —Cut off the spikes as soon as the flowers 
fade to prevent the formation of seed. Place the plants in the lightest 
position at command, such as on a shelf in a greenhouse or in a frame from 
which frost is excluded, and w'ater them as carefully as before flowering, 
giving a little weak liquid manure occasionally. The stronger and healthier 
the foliage is under the influence of sun and air, and the longer it is main¬ 
tained in a fresh state, the better will be the condition of the bulbs for- 
flowering next year. 
Self-Improvement (E. A. B.). —Nothing could be more commendable 
than the manner in which you are employing your leisure hours ; but we 
would counsel you not to attach too much importance to “ taking lessons,” 
nor to measure their value by the money expended alone. The lessons in 
question you must only regard as the beginning of your educational career. 
