216 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 13,1884, 
picturesquely arranged, the peculiar habits of each species being studied 
in the arrangement. Another striking and very uncommon feature is a 
high wall exposed to the south entirely, and heavily covered with Ceanothus 
azureus. This always neat and ornamental drapery when in bloom can 
he seen at a great distance, and is the cause of much speculation to many 
passing horticulturists.—W. Iggulden. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Spring Onions. —The main crop of these should be sown as soon as 
possible. The soil for their reception must be deeply dug and well 
manured. Sowing should only be done when the surface is dry and in 
good working order. Do not form beds, but sow in rows, which should 
be 1 foot apart and 1^ inch deep. The seed should be sown thinly, 
and it is an advantage to cover it with a little sand or fine dry soil, 
then put on what was drawn out of the drills and tread firmly. When 
the surface is dry enough roll the whole piece, as nothing tends so 
much to produce finely shaped, small-necked bulbs as a firm soil. Of 
varieties the best to sow at present are Webb’s Banbury, Sutton’s 
Reading, Bedfordshire Champion, and James’s Keeping. The two former 
attain a handsome size ; the two latter, especially the last, are excellent 
keepers. 
Parsnips. —The sowing of these should be finished at once. Where 
the soil is very shallow, and the long ones fork as a rule, sow the Turnip- 
rooted variety. It is very like a Turnip in shape, and is useful. 
Peas. —Plants produced from seed sown under glass, and which are 
now being hardened under frames, should be transferred to their hearing 
quarters. In a favourable situation, and with care in hardening and 
planting, such crops may be had earlier than in any other way, but the 
utmost care is required to prevent their being checked. The roots must 
not be disturbed to any extent, and some dry soil from the sheds should 
be placed against them in planting. Stake at once and protect from 
cutting winds. Earth-up and stake Peas sown in the open some time 
ago. Marrows and main crop varieties generally may now be sown. 
Give them plenty of room and a rich soil. Of extra good varieties for 
sowing now we may name Carter’s three splendid sorts — Telephone, 
Stratagem, and Pride of the Market; Duke of Albany, a new one of 
great merit; Telegraph, Giant Marrow, Champion of England, and Webb’s 
Electric Light. 
Broad Beans. —More of these may be sown. Aquadulce is a capital 
summer sort. Last year we had pods of it 16 inches long, and it is 
prolific and good. Do not sow this crop in the best part of the garden, 
as situation is not so important as a rich firm soil. 
Celery. —Young plants must have plenty of light and air on all 
favourable occasions. Seed may be germinated in heat, but plants 
should be reared in ordinary frames. Those ready for transplanting 
should be placed into a frame with a gentle hotbed at the bottom and a 
rich soil over it, in which to dibble them. When not available we have 
substituted boxes for frames with good results. Sow a pinch of seed 
in gentle heat. Old Celery is now nearly over ; clear the ground and 
prepare it for other crops. 
Spinach. —Make a sowing of the round variety fortnightly now in 
large or small quantities, according to demand. We never give it a 
foremost place, but obtain all we require from between Raspberries, 
Gooseberries, and other crops. 
Cauliflower, Savoy, Brussels Sprout, and Cabbage seed may be sown 
in quantity on a border to supply stock for transplanting in May. 
Lettuce may also be sown. Proceed with planting second early Potatoes. 
Keep the seed tubers of later varieties well spread out and exposed to 
the light. Make a new plantation of Horseradish ; strong straight pieces 
should be dibbled into the ground in rows 3 feet apart and 1 foot from 
plant to plant. Seakale may be treated in the same way. Good soil 
should be provided for both. Where plantations of Seakale have become 
very old take up all the old stumps and only plant the crowns, cut off 
singly with a few inches of stem attached to each. All unoccupied 
ground should be manured and dug ready for cropping by this time. 
There will be much sowing and planting shortly. 
ERUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — Early Trees in Pots. —The fruit having completed its first 
swelling, the most important matter is to pay strict daily attention to 
watering with diluted liquid manure a few degrees warmer than the 
house of which, if the pots are duly drained, the Fig at this stage will 
take great quantities without injury, but if they are allowed to want 
water—it may be but once—it is likely all the most forward fruit will 
fall just when they should be taking their last swelling. If the roots 
have passed through the top-dressing they may, if carrying a heavy crop, 
have large pieces of turf laid over the tops of the pots and extending to 
the bed of fermenting materials, into which they will root, and being fed 
judiciously the fruit will be much improved in size and quality. The day 
and night temperature need not be increased until the fruit begins to 
move, when a slight increase may be given, but in the meantime the 
foliage must be well syringed in the morning and afternoon of fine days, 
damping the floors and walls, and close sufficiently early for the heat to 
rise to 80°. Great care must be given to the ventilation, particularly in 
bright weather succeeding a dull period, when early ventilation will be 
necessary in order that the tender young foliage may escape scorching. 
Keep a sharp look-out for red spider, and apply the usual remedies 
promptly. Pot young plants as soon as they require it, not allowing 
them to become much root-bound before doing so. Grow them in moist 
heat, and train to single stems. 
Succession Houses. —Trees planted out will require regulating, 
tying as the growths proceed. Stop all side shoots at the fifth or sixth 
leaf, and lay in terminal shoots at full length until they have filled the 
allotted space. Syringe well twice a day, and damp all paths and borders 
at closing time ; mulch and water the borders so as to encourage a sturdy 
growth, which is the most effectual means of keeping red spider in check. 
Pines —The winter season often makes the foliage of these plants 
somewhat tender and susceptible to injury from sudden outbursts of 
powerful sun, which are not infrequent at this time of year, hence great 
watchfulness must be exercised in the ventilation until the leaves become 
inured to the more powerful effects of the increased sunshine. Prompt 
attention must be given early in the morning to admitting a little air at 
the top of the houses, so as to dissipate the moisture before the sun is 
powerful. If the potting alluded to in our last calendar under this head 
be not already effected it must be attended to without delay. Attention 
must be given to the fermenting beds, because the heat rises very rapidly 
in them at this season, and the new young roots are soon injured by 
having too much heat. All plants should be examined at least once a 
week for watering, giving them thorough supplies of tepid liquid manure 
whenever they require it. Let the necessary attention be given to fruit¬ 
ing plants with superfluous suckers by screwing off the hearts of such as 
are not wanted, and afford to fruiting plants an abundance of moisture 
when the house is closed, in order to counteract the drying influence of 
artificial heat. Beds heated by hot-water pipes and shallow in depth 
sometimes become very dry, when a suitable occasion should be taken 
advantage of to give the plants and bed a good soaking with tepid water, 
which will produce a highly beneficial condition about the plants by in¬ 
creasing the supply of moisture. 
Strawberries in Pots. —The plants are now pushing vigorously, but 
the earliest batches from the imperfect ripening of last autumn have 
thrown up leaves in advance of the flower trusses, the only remedy for 
which is a moderately warm temperature with a free admission of air. 
With the increase of light and heat the progress of succession plants will 
require attention so as to insure a steady supply. This is easily effected 
where Strawberries are grown in forced fruit houses in different stages or 
times of starting, and with a house specially devoted to swelling off the- 
fruit there need not be any break in the succession, provided due regard 
be had to the difference of varieties with regard to the time of ripening. 
The blank most commonly occurs between early forced crops and later 
ones, if it should happen that a late variety succeeds an early one. Some 
endure forcing well and ripen quickly, as Vicomtesse Hericart de Thurv, 
and La Grosse Sucree, but other varieties must be brought on slowly, 
standing forcing after the fruit is set, but up to that stage make slow 
progress. If such varieties as Dr. Hogg, British Queen, Sir Charles 
Napier, and Cockscomb are to succeed early sorts, allowance must be made 
accordingly. These varieties, which are admirable for late work, should 
be brought on slowly in a good position near the glass, with plenty of air 
and abundance of water at the roots. The aphides generally appear with 
the flower trusses. These must be thoroughly disposed of by fumigation 
before the flowers open. Plants swelling off their fruit should have good 
supplies of tepid liquid manure two or three times a week, according to 
the condition of the plants and crop, and the plants should be looked 
over for water twice a day, and in very bright weather three times, as 
nothing hinders the swelling or encourages red spider so much as a. 
deficiency of water at the roots. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Shading. —The majority of the occupants of the stove that required 
potting will have been attended to by this time ; and if the blinds are not 
already fixed upon the house, it should be done without further delay. 
The sun has now considerable power, and when shining in full force 
upon such plants as Marantas, Eucharis, Anthuriums, and others that 
have had the whole of the old soil removed from amongst their roots, 
will prove injurious. If not shaded their foliage will flag, and this, 
as far as possible, should be prevented if the plants are to commence 
root-action and establish themselves early. No air should be admitted 
through the ventilators into this structure until the plants are rooting 
freely. A close moist atmosphere and protection from the strong rays of 
the sun are the conditions under which the plants will rapidly become 
established and start into growth. The blinds should not be injudiciously 
applied, or the plants will grow weakly, and as the season advances 
they will be tender and incapable of bearing strong light. 
The south side of the conservatory or any structure kept bright with 
flowering plants should also be provided with blinds, and in readiness 
for drawing down at any time when the sun is bright for an hour or 
two. Plants in full flower do not last in good condition nearly so long 
when the sun is allowed to shine with force upon them, neither do the 
flowers retain that freshness and brightness of colour which is so 
desirable. It is too early to apply permanent shading, and sooner than 
do this shading altogether for some time should be dispensed with. 
The Orchid houses should be supplied with their blinds in readiness 
for the time when they are required. The blinds may now be drawn 
down daily on the south side of the Odontoglossum or cool house when 
the sun is bright, but on the other houses the shading need not be applied 
