March 20, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
225 
one of those irrelevant side issues I cautioned readers against before, 
and which I have not time nor inclination to follow.— Casual. 
[Wedoubt if “ C. W.” will have either time or inclination to “follow” 
this note.] 
TRILLIUMS. 
The genus Trillium includes some of the most beautiful and useful 
hardy plants we possess ; unfortunately they have gained the reputa¬ 
tion of being difficult to cultivate, and in consequence they are not 
so common in gardens as they might otherwise be. As regards the soil 
in which they are grown they are not at all fastidious, although in most 
eases they prefer a peaty soil ; T. grandiflorum, for instance, will succeed 
fairly in ordinary loam in partially shady positions. The soil should be 
deep, and it is absolutely necessary to have it well drained, as they are 
most averse to stagnant moisture at their roots. In an artificial bog 
they thrive admirably, and although the increase is slow it is always sure 
when once they are well established. They are also very useful for 
■edging beds of Azaleas, Kalmias, and low-growiog Rhododendrons ; and 
T. grandiflorum especially has been very effectively used as an edging for 
elumps of Pernettyas, the shade and protection from cold winds being in 
these cases quite sufficient for their well-being. Few plants are better 
fitted than Trilliums for shady positions, and it is a matter of regret that 
no one has given them a chance to naturalise themselves on a large seal 
in wild gardens or by the edge of shady walks, as they come into flower 
just after the Crocuses and Snowdrops are past. 
Trillium grandiflorum is an extremely handsome and singular plant. 
It grows from 1 foot to 18 inches in height, and the leaves, which are 
three in number, are borne in a whorl umbrella fashion near the summit 
■of the stem ; they are broadly ovate, and of a dark shining green colour, 
having well-marked veins. The flowers, of which there is one to each 
stem, spring from the centre of the whorl of leaves, and are supported on 
short stalks in a slightly drooping position. The three petals are ivory 
white, and the sepals, although generally green, at times vary to cream 
or whitish. This species has been grown with considerable success as a 
pot plant, and as it flowers early in April, through May and June, is very 
useful for that purpose. Native of the Northern United States, where it 
is found plentifully in rich woods. 
T. erythrocarpum, the Painted Trillium, is the most striking and 
beautiful species of the group, far surpassing any of them, but is unfortu¬ 
nately an extremely sby flowerer ; the leaves are more inclined to lanceo¬ 
late than any of the others, bright green, taper-pointed, with vivid purple 
margins. The petals are wavy at the edges and widely spreading, pure 
white, with rosy purple streaks reaching half their length ; they are 
almost twice as long as the sepals. It is found in the cold damp woods 
and bogs along Lake Superior. It would be a magnificent plant for 
naturalising. It flowers in May and June. 
T. erectum, the Purple Birthroot, is one of the most variable of all, 
some of the forms having large reddish purple flowers in all shades, the 
leaves varying from broadly oval to nearly orbicular, with very abrupt 
points. It grows from 9 inches to 1 foot in height. It flowers in May and 
June. 
T. erectum var. album (T. pendulum) does not differ very much from 
T. grandiflorum ; the petals, however, are invariably greenish tinted, 
sometimes yellowish ; the leaves are also sharper pointed. 
T. erectum var. atropurpureum, of which a good representation is 
given in the woodcut (fig. 47), is a much freer-flowering plant than any 
of the above two ; the petals are of a dark mahogany colour, by which 
alone it is easily distinguished from T. erectum ; they are inclined to 
droop. The leaves are less round, having a gradual taper to the point. 
This is a very desirable plant. 
T. cernuum is more interesting than useful, as are also T. sessile, 
T. nervosum, and T. discolor, the latter being chiefly noteworthy owing 
to the large bright green, blotched, rhomboid leaves.—M. S. 
SPRING TREATMENT OF CAMELLIAS. 
So long as Camellia plants are in bloom little can be done to 
them towards preparing them for supplying flowers another 
year; but as soon as the last of the buds have expanded no time 
should be lost in taking them in hand to improve their condition. 
Many of the plants have now finished flowering, and others will 
be over very shortly. From the time the first flowers open until 
they are all over it is often difficult to syringe the plauts without 
injuring the flowers, and some plants when left without atten¬ 
tion of this kind are apt to become dirty. Sometimes a black 
matter takes possession of many of the leaves, and all the plants 
will become dust-stained on the foliage. To clean all such 
thoroughly before growth begins is one of the principal opera¬ 
tions connected with the spring treatment of Camellias. 
Established and healthy-growing plants do not often require 
any attention at the root. Plants in pots may have the drainage 
looked to without breaking the roots, and plants in beds and 
borders do occasionally require a little fresh soil by way of a 
top-dressing or extension of the rooting material, but this work 
should never be regarded as part of their annual requirements. 
It should be done thoroughly, and then no more will be wanted 
for years. Camellia roots must, however, be in good condition 
before leaves and blooms will form and expand properly. . A 
compost of half peat and half loam, with a liberal dash of gritty 
sand added, is suitable for Camellias. Good drainage is also 
essential to success. 
Where Camellias are growing luxuriantly they are very 
liable to become too close and thick. Two years ago we cut a 
cartload of superfluous branches out of our trees, and we are 
now dealing with them in the same way. Too many branches 
is as great a fault as having too few. An intricate mass of 
branches will never be well furnished with buds. Exposure to 
sun and air is necessary to form and mature these, and. a 
judicious distribution of the wood is therefore requisite. Thin¬ 
ning should be done chiefly in the centres of the bushes. The 
small spindly twigs should be taken out first; these do no good 
as bloom-producers, and only stop the circulation of air. After 
these, all branches which cross or rest on each other are taken 
off, and the whole are thinned out in much the same way as 
we should treat an Apple tree when pruning it in winter. 
In unfortunate cases where scale, mealy bug, and such pests 
are in possession a general syringing and brushing.should.be 
given with water heated to 90 u and containing some insecticide. 
In ordinary cases of dirt sponging the foliage and a good 
syringing will suffice, and in many instances syringing alone 
will be enough. . 
The plants may next be started into growth. This is best 
done by having the roots in a moist state, and keeping them 
so. The branches should be syringed two or three times weekly ; 
the atmosphere should be kept humid, and the temperature 
from 60° to 70°. Under these conditions substantial growth will 
be produced, and as the days lengthen and the weather brightens 
the wood and flower buds will gradually mature. Camellias 
may be had in full bloom eight months after the date of their 
beginning to make the young wood, and this information will 
be a guide for beginners who may want their Camellias in 
flower at a certain time.—M. M. 
How I Raised a Good Supply of Parsley. —Last June, finding 
I was short of my usual lot of Parsley, I at once put some seed in a pan 
with damp sand, and placing it in the stove to germinate, which it soon 
did. I then sowed it in a bed, and covered it with mats till I could see 
