March 27, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
241 
Brussels Sprout, and no greater misfortune could befall cultivators. The 
Aigburth and all the “exhibition” varieties which have come out of late 
do certainly produce large sprouts, but this is all that can truly be said in 
their favour, as they are not packed so closely on the stems of the large as 
the small ones. The large ones never become really hard. This makes 
them more easily injured by frost, and when the weather is mild they are 
more liable to start prematurely into growth, and if any of these are 
grown slightly in the shade they never form anything like sprouts, 
but simply a loose mass of leaves. Lastly, apart from all these drawbacks, 
no ordinary cook or ordinary attention will boil the large ones to be placed 
firm and entire on the table. The majority of them will fall to pieces in 
boiling, and when dished up it would take an expert to tell whether they 
were Cabbages or Savoys. In this particular, and most important it is, 
our little favourites are vastly different, as they retain their appearance 
throughout, and their flavour is at all times distinct and pleasing, or, 
indeed, all that we need ever expect Brussels Sprouts to be. The 
Dalkeith and the Rosebery varieties are the only real Brussels Sprouts I 
have, and I am so proud of the quarters of these that I possess that I shall 
save seed and try and keep them true.—A Kitchen Gardener. 
RHODODENDRON TRIFLORUM. 
This is a rare and very curious species, discovered by Sir J. D. Hooker 
in Sikkim, Himalaya. The colour is yellow, and the florets are not 
unlike those of Azalea pontica. The habit of the plant, however, is 
evergreen, and the backs of the leaves are profusely sprinkled with 
Fig. 55.—Rhododendron triflorum. 
scales, bringing it more into affinity with R. ciliatum, glaucum, and 
cinnabarinum. It seldom flowers as a small plant, which is a drawback, 
but, on the other hand, it is perfectly hardy, blooming too late in the 
season to be affected by the spring frosts. Two years ago I had a bush 
4 or 5 feet high, which was covered with its triple yellow flowers, and 
excited much curiosity and interest. I have furnished many botanical 
gardens, with specimens, as well as my friends, Miss Jekyll of Munstead> 
and Mr. Acton, a great Rhododendron fancier in Ireland. When the 
plant of the latter bloomed he wrote to express his delight on finding Sir 
Joseph’s plate of this flower, which he had often wistfully, but hopelessly 
contemplated, at last realised in his own garden. 
I have made many experiments for the purpose of hybridising this 
Rhododendron, but with little success. Some seedlings between it and 
R. glaucum are, however, coming on.—J. H. Mangles, Valewood, 
Haslemcre. 
Flower Show Schedules. — I deny Mr. Wood’s assertion, on page 
204, that “ I knew of the existence of 1 The Eastbourne Gardeners’ and 
Cottagers’ Society ’ previous to receiving their schedules.” On receiving 
the schedules I wrote to the Secretary, asking him if they held meetings 
at which papers were read and discussed, at the same time expressing a 
wish to become a member. I received an answer saying “ That a 
resolution had been passed to the effect that anyone joining previous to 
their shows must pay a year’s subscription as entrance fee.” I consented 
to pay this fee, although I had doubts as to whether I should be able to 
show or not. I did show a little, which would not have been much more 
had I been a member. I do not know how the members came to the 
conclusion “ that I had no intention of attending the meetings,” as that 
was my “chief” reason for wishing to join the Society. Now, what I 
ask the members of this Society to do is this, “ Throw open the Society, 
and let the country gardeners around Eastbourne share in the privilege 
of meeting and discussing horticultural subjects ; and if they continue to 
hold exhibitions, still reserve classes for members residing m Eastbourne.’ ’ 
—J. Gore. 
UNPRUNED FRUIT TREES. 
In February, 1881, I was directed to plant a piece of ground with 
Plum trees for kitchen use alone, using my own discretion as to the 
variety and style of tree. I decided to plant only one variety—Vic¬ 
toria, and to have standard trees tall enough to allow a crop of small 
fruit to be grown beneath. The soil was moderately heavy, G inches 
deep, and resting on clay, but very well drained. I had an offer of a 
few cartloads of night soil and ashes. This was trenched in, and in 
the operation a good depth of clay brought to the surface, and in 
this with a barrowload of good soil to each the trees were planted, 
their tops simply being shortened ; they grew freely and made very 
strong shoots by the end of the season. The knife was not used, not 
a twig being touched. In 1882 they grew very strongly again, 
spreading out pretty regularly in all directions and forming good- 
sized heads. In 1883 a few fruits were had, but still they grew so 
strongly that I was often advised to root-prune them. I did not take 
that advice, and am glad that I did not. I have examined them 
rather closely to-day, and find that nearly all the wood made prior to 
last year is covered with fruit buds or spurs, in some places so thickly 
as almost to touch each other. Some of the trees haye eight main 
branches, and out of these side branches grow at regular intervals, 
and with a little tying out they will make really handsome trees. On 
several branches about 2 feet long grown in 1882 I counted from 
twenty to thirty clusters of fruit buds, and if we are favoured with 
suitable weather when the trees are in bloom we shall have an 
enormous crop of fruit. 
With Apples and Pears the result is the same. Some young 
Apple trees were planted about four years ago, and have never been 
pruned ; the result is, the formation of fruit spurs on all wood made 
prior to last year ; and on old bush trees that had been closely cut in 
for years but have lately been allowed to grow more naturally the 
same result is seen. Even Gooseberries are all the better for having 
part of the new wood annually left in. Nearly twenty years ago, 
when serving in a large garden, I noticed on Gooseberry trees trained 
to a north wall that new wood annually nailed in bore fruit its entire 
length, and yet the bush trees were yearly divested of nearly all 
young wood when there was plenty of room for it to remain. I am 
well aware that pruning cannot be altogether dispensed with ; what I 
contend for is that pruning is like many other good things, it has 
been overdone, and it is time a more common-sense plan was adopted. 
I have been experimenting as far as my very limited opportunities 
would allow for several years now, and am satisfied that spur-pruning 
is a mistake as applied to hardy fruits not growing on walls. I have 
within the last few months had the pleasure of reading Mr. Simpson’s 
useful book on the pruning and training of fruit trees, and, with 
respect to hardy fruits, my own experience fully confirms the views 
advanced in that work. I hope shorrly to apply the principles of 
extension to Peach trees under glass than 1 have yet been able 
to do.—T. A. B. 
AGAINST PLUNGING PLANTS IN POTS. 
Do we not too often attach more importance to providing bottom 
heat than the circumstances of the case warrant? For rny part I 
have long been under the impression that hotbeds in forcing houses 
for affording bottom heat are by no means indispensable ; in fact, as I 
have frequently observed, they may easily prove injurious to many 
plants that may be plunged in them. If we wrnre contented with 
standing the pots on the levelled surface of the hotbeds the case 
might be different, but plunged they may easily be overwatered, or 
even not get enough water, the former being the most fatal in its con¬ 
sequences. Then, again, the beds may suddenly become too hot, and 
either burn the roots or injuriously affect the unoccupied soil of newly 
potted plants, or, as more often happens, the heat declines consider¬ 
ably lower than desirable, and it is then when overwatering does much 
harm. 
There may be causes ■where plunging material and a strong bottom 
heat are necessary adjuncts to the successful culture of plants, notably 
the Pine Apple, but I am by no means convinced of this even. 
