258 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 3, 1884. 
would pots of Kidney Beans, and this plan we also imitate 
with advantage. 
Towards the end of September, or before wet and cold 
weather sets in, all the plants should be housed; and as a 
considerable number of them will have many buds ready to 
expand, the season may be said to commence from that date, 
and will last till late in May, even later if house-room can be 
afforded them. A light airy lean-to greenhouse is the best 
position for them during the winter, as they require all the 
light and sunshine possible. In such a house even they must 
not be crowded together or mixed with other plants, as this, 
and especially if the plants are at all shaded, results in the 
formation of little else but long weakly growth. Given all 
the light possible and air on all favourable occasions, a 
temperature maintained by fire heat when necessary, ranging 
from 45° by night to 55° by day, with a proper supply of 
moisture at the roots, and they will yield blooms in surprising 
quantities. They may easily be injured by overwatering, 
especially when first repotted or if badly rooted. Occasional 
supplies of liquid manure obtained from the farmyard must 
be given if large blooms are expected, and good substitutes 
for this are Standen’s, Clay’s, or other makers’ fertilisers as 
advertised. The former should be freely diluted and the 
latter used sparingly, either dissolved in water or sprinkled 
on the surface of the soil and watered in. 
Carnations are rather liable to be infested with aphides, 
especially if in an unhealthy state. Fumigating with tobacco 
paper is the simplest and most effective remedy. Nicotine 
soap, quassia chips and soft soap, Hudson’s extract of soap, 
tobacco powder, and other well-known remedies all prove 
destructive to green fly, and either may be tried by those 
objecting to fumigating. Red spider also occasionally 
attacks Carnations and must be kept down by syringing both 
during hot and dry weather, and when much fire heat is 
employed. 
The most generally serviceable varieties we have here are 
Miss Jolliffe, flesh colour ; Belle Rose, bright rose ; Purity, 
pure white; and Souvenir de la Malmaison, blush white, all 
being free bloomers and highly scented. The latter is the 
most valuable, and we are cutting fine blooms of it nearly all 
the year round. In this case the old plants are retained, 
these flowering nearly at all times, and which they are 
encouraged to do till worn out. The spring-struck plants 
commence blooming the following spring, and these give us 
much the largest blooms. By way of variety we grow a 
‘ limited number of other sorts, such as Andalusia, yellow; 
Laura, pink; both having large fringed flowers, as well as 
being of vigorous growth ; Juliet, white, flowers large 
and plant vigorous; Sir Evelyn Wood, rich crimson, 
vigorous, but more dwarf than the foregoing; L’Her- 
mine, white, of medium growth; Annie Williams, pink, of 
moderate growth; Mons. Baldwin, bright scarlet, large, 
good branching habit; and Empress of Germany, white, 
tinged with rose, good habit, and free-blooming. The pink 
variety of Souvenir de la Malmaison is very tall-growing and 
flowers in the spring only, consequently is not perpetual 
flowering. The colour, however, is very pleasing, and the 
blooms are not much given to bursting. Mrs. George 
Hawtrey, a rich yellow variety, is another shy-blooming sort, 
.and partakes more of the character of a border variety. Duke 
nf Wellington, bright purple, has not grown well, but it will 
be given another trial from our own cuttings and which we 
prefer to small rooted plants as frequently supplied by the 
trade. — W. Iggulden. 
TURNIPS ALL THE YEAR ROUND. 
In supplying a kitchen with vegetables all the year l'ound 
there is nothing more constantly in demand than Turnips, and 
those who wish to please the cook and their employers should 
bear this in mind. A great quantity is rarely wanted at one 
time, but from half a do:en to twenty roots are about the daily 
requirements for an ordinary kitchen. From this it will be 
understood that to grow one or two large quarters of Turnips 
in the year would not be the best way of securing a regular 
supply, as Turnips, like most other vegetables, soon become 
useless when they reach maturity. 
The best way is to sow frequently, and above all to grow 
seasonable varieties. There would be no satisfaction or profit 
in growing an autumn Turnip in spring as a first crop, a winter 
one in summer, or only one variety for a supply at all seasons. 
Seedsmen who study the demands of their customers more than 
ever, generally classify the varieties as to season, and those 
wishing for suitable sorts should examine their lists before 
ordering, but to assist them in doing this at the present time 
I will name two or three which should be grown by all where 
a constant supply has to be maintained. 
Two of the best early Turnips grown are the Early Milan 
and Early Munich. They are both purple tops, with flesh of 
snowy whiteness and of the finest flavour. Either of them, 
especially the Early Milan, if sown on the same day in March, 
as the Early Snowball or Six Weeks, will be ready for use at 
least twelve days before the latter, and considering how much 
tender young Turnips are valued in spring, the fact is well 
worth remembering. Snowball and the American Strapleaf are 
good summer varieties. Yeitch’s Red Globe is one of the very 
best for autumn use, and Orange Jelly and Chirk Castle are 
unsurpassed for winter. With these varieties 60 wn at proper 
intervals no one need have the slightest difficulty in having a 
supply of Turnips. 
Soil to grow good Turnips should not be too heavy and only 
moderately rich. For the early spring crops the soil cannot be 
too light, but in summer it may be heavier and richer, as in this 
they remain tender and sweet in very dry weather. The latest 
sowings do very well in soil from which early Potatoes and Peas 
have been cleared. We have sown Turnip seed the last week in 
Januai-y, during February, and onwards, but we never bad a 
really profitable crop from any seed sown before the first or 
second week in March, the plants lacked vigour and produced 
flowers before “ bulbing.” When the first seed is sown in March 
the Turnips will be ready early in May, and this is a very good 
time to have them. From March until the end of August seed 
should be sown every three or four weeks, and then the supply 
of fresh tender sweet roots will be constant. Our crop of Chirk 
Castle Turnips has just been lifted and stacked in the same 
way as farmers treat theirs, with a covering of Fern. There 
they will remain and keep fresh until new Turnips come again.— 
A Kitchen Gardener. 
THE FORMATION AND KEEPING OF 
WALKS AND DRIVES. 
The first expense in making substantial roads on an estate 
is always heavy, even in localities where stone is plentiful and 
comparatively cheap. What, then, must it be where materials 
are scarce, or wanting altogether, as is sometimes the case ? 
A few practical hints on this important subject may be accept¬ 
able to your readers. I now jot down a few thoughts suggested 
by my own experience, and I hope others may be induced to 
do the same, especially men of forty or fifty years’ standing, as it 
is to such we must look to for information as to the durability 
of roads made in their younger days, the materials used, and the 
manner of using them. 
Some men will make an equally durable road with half the 
material another may think necessary; so much depends on 
placing the stones on a properly prepared foundation. To 
make a good carriage drive on level well-drained land is a 
very simple matter. Having marked it out by placing peg3 
at regular distances, or notched it off with line and spade, 
excavate the soil to the depth of 9 inches or a foot deep at 
each side, but only from 3 to 6 inches in the centre, keeping 
it exactly the same shape as the road will be when finished. 
To secure good drainage — and this is especially necessary on 
heavy lands — dig a shallow drain about 9 inches below the 
bottom of your road, along both sides, and lay an ordinary 
3-inch drain tile. Provide proper outlets for the water at con¬ 
venient places, and where there is depression in the road gratings 
must be provided, so that surface water may not stand about the 
sides and soak into the road. Where these gratings are to be 
placed a square hole should be dug out about a foot below the 
drain, to be built up with brick, and the grating let into the top 
bricks. These are sometimes built too high. A new road, of 
course, always subsides a little, and if built up to the level of 
the fresh laid material it becomes useless when it has settled. 
Workmen should look more to the edge of the road, keeping 
the gratings 2 or 3 inches below the level of that. On very wet 
land it is advisable to keep such a road a little above the general 
level, and this may be done by excavating less soil and using 
