April 3, 1S84. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
265 
plants are best potted in crocks only until tbey are throwing 
out fresh roots, when peat and moss may be added. Established 
plants are only disturbed every second or third year, generally 
the former, and if larger pots are required a shift is given them, 
so as to keep if possible their roots in the compost and pots or 
pans, whichever may be used ; the latter are preferable. The 
pots in which established plants have been growing must be 
broken, for the roots of the plants if healthy are sure to be 
found clinging to the sides. The portions of the pot to which the 
roots adhere should be placed into the new pots without being 
disturbed. The old peat and moss must be removed, and fresh 
worked most carefully amongst the roots without breaking 
them. There is a variety of opinions about the best time to 
a’epot these plants. I am no advocate for allowing them to 
commence making fresh roots before the operation is performed, 
the majority of our plants being potted just as they commence 
growth and before they form roots. I am not sure, however, 
where the watering is done carefully and judiciously, if this is 
siot best done even before they commence growth. 1 have been 
subjecting a plant of C. Mossiae to this treatment, and it has 
flourished well. Three years ago when obtained it was just 
maturing a small-flowering pseudo-bulb. The flower was re¬ 
moved, and the following season a strong-flowering pseudo-bulb 
was made, and a stronger still the following season. Last 
spring the one produced two strong growths, each now carrying 
flowering sheaths. Two of the back eyes have started, and are 
likely to make strong pseudo-bulbs, so that the plant has now 
four leads, and until this season only in a 5-inch pot. I am 
testing this matter on a larger scale this year. 
Oncidiums, Masdevallias, Odontoglossums, and others are 
repotted annually, removing every portion of the compost given 
them the previous year. For the last two mentioned scarcely 
too much moss can be used, for they appear to root more freely 
amongst it than they do in peat, and this year I intend trying a 
number in living moss only. It is important when potting is 
done that the plants be well elevated above the rim of the pots, 
for experience proves to me that the higher they can be raised 
with safety the better they will flourish. It will be found in the 
cultivation of those mentioned last that they root much more 
freely near the surface than they do at any depth below, neither 
will the roots that descend be found when turned out in the 
same healthy condition as those in the compost above the rim of 
the pots. This is not the case when the roots ramble freely 
amongst the crocks and charcoal used for drainage, but when a 
good depth of compost is used below the rim of the pots. .1 have 
been turning out a number lately, and all that have the least 
depth of moss and peat below the surface are all the best rooted 
plants, and have made the strongest growths. These plants are 
not of strong-rooting habit, and do not therefore require large pots 
•or any great depth of material to root in. After potting I have 
found the plants to do better when elevated upon small pots, or 
anything else used as a substitute, than they do when standing 
•directly upon the gravel or other material of which the bed may 
be composed. I do not care to stand them upon wood trellis- 
work unless it can be arranged close over shallow tanks of water, 
for the plants and their surroundings become dry too rapidly 
during bright weather when air has to be given abundantly. If 
•elevated only 1 or 2 inches above the material forming the bed 
it is ample, and allows superfluous water to pass away and air to 
circulate freely amongst the plants.—W. Bardney. 
OLD PRIMULA PLANTS. 
When their season ends and other more showy flowers appear it is 
•often thought that old Primulas are not worth keeping for another winter, 
but plants which have produced blooms of the finest form and colour are 
valuable. In the best selected strains we find the flowers vary in size 
and colour, and as the true variety may not always be easily obtained or 
preserved, they have often to do service for at least two and sometimes 
three years. Many of our one-year-old Primulas are grown in 4-inch 
pots, and when one season is over in these they are transferred to 6-inch 
pots. They generally advance well, and by the second autumn they are 
much finer plants than they were before. Those in 6-inch pots are 
sometimes placed in a larger size, and others are only turned out of the 
pots, the ball reduced, and again potted in the same size. I am sure if 
many cultivators would try these ways of dealing with the best of their 
old Primulas, they would find them as good or possibly better than any 
of the young plants they could raise from seed. Potting may be done at 
any time, from now until May ; and the cold frame treatment, which 
suit seedling Primulas in summer, will be found to agree equally well 
with the old plants.—M. M. 
Keeping Rabbits from a Garden. —I see a correspondent in the 
Journal, March 13th, seeks information in keeping rabbits out of his 
garden. No one is more troubled with rabbits than I have been, as I am 
situated in the middle of a wood ; and just outside the garden boundary 
there is a rabbit burrow with sixteen holes. I have seen them jump over 
our wire fence 4 feet 6 inches in height, and have had to add another 
foot of wire to bend over. Still they get in while the carriage gate is 
open. After trying several experiments we have just found a remedy. 
I obtained some old wool and petroleum. A little petroleum is placed 
in a pan and the wool rubbed round it so as to carry the smell, and it is 
then laid round a few plants which they visit. They will not come any¬ 
where near it. Since using the above I have only seen one rabbit, and 
that I shot. I believe they can smell it outside the garden. We have a 
dog by the side of the house, and a small path 5 feet wide leading from 
the wood, and have proved that rabbits come very near to the dog at 
night by laying sand across the path, which show that they are very 
daring in their hunger.—R. C. 
VINE ROOTS—MANURING VINES. 
I AGREE with what is said on page 442 that artificial manures will not 
attract Vine roots “ through a mass of soil 1 foot or 2 feet thick,” but I go 
further and say no manure of any kind will do that. I have, however, a 
vinery in which the roots of the Vines have been attrac'e 1 to the surface 
of the border solely by means of Standen’s manure, which has been 
applied every year for about seven years. Above the manure was spread 
loam sometimes, and sometimes it was only slightly forked in, and a light 
mulching of leaf soil was always put on above all, but only about 
3 inches, and that was always swept off again at the next dressing. Once, 
two years ago, cow dung was applied as well as Standen’s, but the roots 
were plentiful then. It is essential to keep the surface moist with top- 
dressings, otherwise rooting will not go on, but any appropriate Vine 
manure will induce fibrous roots under such conditions. Our Vines in 
pots were never manured with anything but Standen’s manure, and the 
abundance of fibrous roots produced by it first determined us to apply it 
regularly to the borders as a surface dressing. I notice wood ashes are 
recommended with loam to be applied at first to produce fibrous roots, 
which “ will then form readily, and a million mouths be provided for, 
appropriating the food that may afterwards be given.” Chemists describe 
wood ashes as an excellent artificial fertiliser, and it has been proved to 
be particularly serviceable to the Vine, containing, as it does, Vine food in 
a concentrated form.— Casual. 
NEW PLANTS AT REGENT’S PARK. 
A LARGE number of new plants was as usual shown at the Royal Botanic 
Society’s first spring Show last week, some being especially meritorious. 
Several of those certificated have been previously honoured at Kensington 
and described in the reports of the meetings. The following were thus twice 
honoured—namely, Adiantum rhodophyllum, Dieffenbachia Jenmani, Hya¬ 
cinth Harlequin, and Amaryllises Mrs. Shirley Hibberd, Col. Burnaby, and 
Sir Redvers Buller from Messrs. Veitch & Sons, Chelsea; Odontoglos8um 
macrospilum from Mr. B. S. Williams, Upper Holloway ; Cattleya Trianre 
Leeana, Odontoglossum Oerstedti, and Masdevallia Schlimi from W. Lee, Esq., 
Downside, Dorking. In addition to these the following were certificated— 
Masdevallia Chelsoni (Veitch and W. Lee, Esq.).—A showy form, some¬ 
what suggestive of M. Veitchiana in colouring—a kind of shining orange- 
red ; but the flower is smaller and without that peculiar violet gloss which 
renders M. Veitchiana so beautiful. It is free, and apparently of sturdy 
growth. 
Azalea La Merveilleuse (Veitch).—A magnificent single variety of the 
A. indica type, with finely formed intensely rich crimson flowers, 3 inches 
across; the petals rounded, broad, and of great substance. The plant is 
sturdy and compact in habit and very free. 
Hyacinth Minerva (Veitch).—A double variety ; the bells very full and 
well formed, of a peculiar salmon co'oar tinted with rose. 
Hyacinth Lord Derby Improved (Veitch).—The single light blue Hyacinth 
Lord Derby is well known, and of this the variety now noticed is an improved 
form with larger more massive spikes and bells. A very handsome form. 
Amaryllis Madonna (Veitch).—Flowers with broad rounded petals, charm¬ 
ingly veined and streaked with crimson upon a white ground. Very delicate 
and chaste. The plant shown had two spikes with two flowers eich. 
Muscari concinnum (Douglas).—A charming Grape Hyac'nth, somewhat 
of the M. botryoides type, with compact spikes of la> - ge bright blue bells. 
Very free and dwarf; pretty in pots as shown by Mr. Douglas. 
Cypripedium Druryi (Williams).—A small-flowerel but distinct species; 
the sepals and petals yellowish with a green tinge, each having a median 
maroon stripe, which is very sLongly marked in the dorsal sepal. The lip 
is buff yellow. 
Adiantum strictum (Williams).—One of the A. cunea'um type with small 
pinnules, and having closely set erect fronds, from which character the name 
is derived. 
Odontoglossum WilcTceanum Littlei (Little).—A beautiful vaiiety, areally 
fine 0. Wilckeanum ; the ground colour pale yellow, heavily spotted with 
chocolate on the sepals and smaller dots on the petals. 
Cyclamen Dame Blanche (H. B. Smith).—Remarkable for the great sub¬ 
stance of the flowers, which are about 2 inches long ; the petals being an 
inch broad, pure white, and of neat form. 
Cyclamen Purity (Little).—Very free; the flowers pure white, but only 
of moderate size. 
Cyclamen Bose Gem (Little).—Exceedingly free. A bright rosy self flower 
of good form and produced in great numbers. Most valuable for decoration. 
Cineraria Prince of Wales (James).—A large, handsome, rosy crimson 
self. Flowers 2 inches in diameter and very rich in colour. 
Cineraria Venus (James).—A rich crimson-maroon self, with broad petals 
of fine substance and velvety gloss. 
Cineraria Sir F. Roberts (James).—A magnificent variety, crimson- 
purple ; the flowers 2£ inches in diameter, of wonderful substance. 
Cineraria Mrs. Arden (James).—Very large and showy ; flower rosy 
crimson with a white ring in the centre. 
