286 
JOURNAL OF H0RTICUL1URE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 10, 18?4. 
Any light rich soil suits the plant, which thrives in a greenhouse 
temperature with very little care. 
EUCHARIS AMAZONICA. 
There is scarcely a stove house now that has not the Eucharis 
as one of its inhabitants. Still, judging from the inquiries often 
made, it would appear that it is difficult to flower. As vye have been 
very successful in growing and flowering this lovely plant we shall 
as briefly as possible describe our mode of treatment. To begin 
with, the bulbs must be a good size, say about 8 inches in circum¬ 
ference and thoroughly well matured before they can be expected to 
flower, so therefore we must turn to the growing treatment first. 
Soil .—After trying various composts we find a mixture of three 
parts of good fibrous loam, with one part of half-decomposed cow 
dung suit it well. When the roots are not so numerous as we would 
like, as is often the case with young bulbs, instead of the cow dung 
we add the same quantity of leaf mould. This appears to encourage 
the ycu lg bulbs to make roots rapidly. 
Pots .—The size of pot is a matter of taste, as the plants thrive 
in almost any size, from a G-inch pot upwards. When they are 
grown for cut flowers we prefer 12-inch pots, with from nine to 
eleven bulbs in a pot. In every size of pot the drainage is ample, 
never less than 34 inches of crocks in the largest size. 
Potting .—We pot our Eucharis annually some time in February, 
turn them out on to the potting bench, break up the ball, dis¬ 
entangle the roots, take off the offsets, doing all this very carefully, 
as the roots are easily damaged, potting all again in the mixture 
mentioned above, spreading the roots as much as possible amongst 
the soil, allowing one-half of the bulb to remain above the surface, 
pressing the compost moderately firm. Some growers advocate the 
root-bound system to cause them to flower, but we are averse to this 
method of treatment for the following reasons. First, when allowed 
to remain undisturbed, instead of growing and preparing the bulb to 
flower again they form offsets ; secondly, they descend or become 
buried among the soil ; the third fault is the worst, the drainage gets 
out of order. 
General Culture .—After the potting process they are plunged into 
the stove house bed, which gives a temperature of 75°, the heat of 
the house being 65°, letting it run up to 80° as the season advances. 
Very little water is given for some time —a dewing daily—until it 
can be seen that growth has fairly commenced. After this has taken 
place water is more freely given. As soon as it can be ascertained 
that the roots are plenriful liquid manure is given (sheep’s droppings 
is our favourite), commencing with it rather weak for a time. As 
soon as they appear to have made their growth water is again 
gradually withheld, at the same time raising them out of the bed. 
Here they stand for a few days, when they are removed to a cooler 
structure with a temperature of 50°. A vinery where the fruit has 
been cut suits them well when resting Water is given very sparingly, 
only as much as will keep the leaves erect. The resting period lasts 
from two to three months. After this they are returned to their 
former quarters, being then thoroughly soaked with tepid water, and 
thus treated we find them flower very well. We have Eucharis 
Candida in flower at the present time, having received the above 
treatment.—J. J. C. 
MAGNOLIA CONSPICUA. 
Calling at Mr. John Fraser's nursery at Leyton, Essex, recently, my 
attention was directed to a very fine specimen of the showy Magnolia 
conspicua, which was flowering most profusely against the front of the 
office. It is much to be regretted that this showy early-flowering species 
of Magnolia is not more generally met with in gardens. Extensive prepa¬ 
rations had been made previous to my visit by Air. Fraser to secure a large 
stock of this by layering. A 3 this plant was covering a large extent of 
wall and had a’tained a great height, layering in the ordinary way could 
not be easily practised. To overcome this difficulty a framework of wood 
forming several stages was erected. On each of these stages were pots 
filled with soil, plunged in mo^s. The shoots were then layered in the 
usual way by conducting these through the soil in the pot". By adopting 
this ingenious method Air. Fraser will no doubt secure a large stock of this 
showy Alasnolia. 
In one of the houses in the same nursery I also saw a large Sollection 
in flower of a very superior strain of Cyclamens. The collection embraced 
many hundreds of very healthy and well-grown specimens. These, I 
was informed, were grown for affording seed—a great speciality in this 
establishment,—S. 
WATERING, SHADING, AND VENTILATING 
ORCHIDS. 
If Orchids are to be grown well the cultural matters which form 
the heading of these notes must each be carefully attended to. The 
different aspects, construction of the house, ventilation, and heating 
arrangements all have a bearing on the subject. The following 
remarks are intended principally for the benefit of younger gardeners, 
some of whom think there is a mystery attached to Orchid-growing, 
though the mystery is easily solved by common sense and close 
attention. If they notice the season of growth and of rest they will 
find no difficulty in growing the majority of Orchids, but a knowledge 
of geography and meteorology of the different countries the Orchids 
inhabit will assist considerably in their culture. 
I will first give a few remarks on the management of “ cool 
Orchids.'’ As to the proper aspect of the house for these, there is a 
difference of opinion. Some prefer the “ north ” lean-to, others 
the span-roof or three-quarter span facing north. I suspect each 
have their good qualities, and have served those who have recom¬ 
mended them. The north lean-to certainly has advantages in the 
south of England, whilst in the north, and especially around the large 
manufacturing towns, Alanchester for instance, the span-roof running 
north and south would be the best. I have grown good cool Orchids 
in the south of England in a span-roof house, but it was rather of 
heavy build. The ends were north and south, but it was during the 
autumn, winter, and spring that the plants succeeded best; and we 
often longed for a north lean-to during the summer, as they had to 
be continually shaded. In the winter the little sun that w T e have 
certainly does not reach the north lean-to, whilst if the plants were 
grown in a span-roof house they certainly would receive the benefit 
of it, and the three-quarter span would have a share. So in the south, 
a three-quarter span facing north is recommended, and a span-roof in 
the north. 
Ventilation must be regulated, so that the plants are not exposed 
to a draught. A close atmosphere is fatal to the well-doing of cool 
Orchids. Shading must be attended to, so as to keep off direct sun¬ 
shine during the spring, summer, and early autumn months.; but 
when there is no direct sunshine on the house remove the shading at 
once. The ends and sides (if there are side lights) should be attended 
to when required. As to watering, give sufficient to Odontoglossums 
of the 0. crispum type and Masdevallias to keep the sphagnum in a 
healthy growing condition. If the sphagnum is healthy the Orchids 
will generally be the same. A good guide as to the time to supply 
water is when the tips of the sphagnum have a white tinge, but are not 
parched. Water the plants in the afternoon during the summer, and 
morning during the winter. Keep abundance of moisture about the 
house during favourable weather, and syringe between the pots twice 
a-day, but on w r et days or during severe w'eather in winter do not 
have much moisture in the house. If other Orchids are grown in 
the cool house they must be treated accordingly. Some of the 
Oncidiums are grown in this house ; they will only require a plentiful 
supply of water wdiilst in active growth, but when at rest must by 
no means be allowed to get dry. Cool Orchids require no artificial 
heat during the summer, and during the winter only when the tem¬ 
perature falls below 45° or during wet close weather, when a little 
heat in the pipes will keep the atmosphere in a suitable condition. 
Occupants of the Cattleya or intermediate house prefer a warmer 
and drier atmosphere than cool Orchids. The shading must be 
according to the aspect or build of the house, and a good guide is 
not to expose the plants to direct sunshine during the spring and 
summer, ventilating whenever it can be done safely. If only Cattleya* 
are growrn in this house they will need less shading than when the 
collection is a mixed one, and in the latter case it will be advantageous 
to have the shading in two parts, so that it can be drawn up earlier 
over the Cattleyas. If the house is in two divisions so much the 
better, as the Cattleyas or other Orchids that succeed with the same 
treatment may be grown in one division. The temperature best 
suited for this house is 55° as a minimum during the winter, with a 
proportionate rise during the spring and summer. Cattleyas do not 
require so much v’ater at the roots as the majority of Orchids. . large 
, specimens only need a supply once or tw'ice a week duting the 
growing season. Small plants require more frequent attention ; they 
must not be kept too w r et or too dry. Whilst at r.st Cattleyas 
require very little water, only sufficient to prevent shrivelling. 
Odontoglossum vexillarium and 0. Phaleenopsis succeed v r ell in this 
house, but must be placed at the shaded end. These Odontoglossums 
' must never be allowed to become dry at any season. On the other 
hand, those of the 0. grande and 0. lnsleayi type must be kept quite 
dry after they have made their growuh. Some of the Cypripediums 
succeed w T ell here. These must never be allowmd to become quite 
dry whilst at iest. The majority of the Oncidiums succeed best in 
this house, and require a plentiful supply when in growth, wffien at 
rest only sufficient to keep them from suffering; and many other 
Orchids too numerous to mention succeed here. The Cattleya house 
or intermediate house is a very good one in which to rest and flower 
the majority of Dendrobiums, but whilst they are making their 
growffh they succeed in a warmer and more moist house. 
The occupants of the East India house or warm stove comprise 
Angnecums. some of the Cypripediums, Dendrobiums whilst making 
