April 10, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
291 
The old variety A. indica alba still finds favour here, and for delicacy 
and purity of colour it is not excelled by any other variety in the col¬ 
lection. Three or four plants, about 4^ feet in height and breadth, are 
well flowered, and though the individual blooms are smaller and the 
petals narrower than most newer varieties, they are light, elegant, and 
more beautiful than many larger-flowering varieties. Another white 
variety—Mdlle. Maria Lefebvre—is just opening its blossoms, and those 
fully expanded are about 44 inches in diameter, pure white, and of good 
substance. This is a splendid variety and presents a striking contrast to 
the one just mentioned. Reine Cleopatra is all aglow with an abundance 
of rich magenta-coloured flowers, and is very beautiful. Superba, a small 
plant, about 3 feet through, is so thickly covered with flue flowers that 
they have not sufficient space to expand properly, and this occurs in other 
specimens. Stella, Jesn Yervaene, Lizzie Tillery, CedoNulli, Countess of 
Beaufort, Gloire de Belgique, Dr. Moore (a most charming variety), and 
Roi Leopold are each covered with well-shaped flowers of good substance 
and colours. Koenig Wilhelm is covered with rich deep rose blossoms 
very double, and associated with the single varieties is very striking and 
beautiful. Apollo is one of the most showy and effective white varieties 
grown here ; two or three specimens are notable for the size and 
substance of their numerous flowers. Other varieties in this house of 
equal merit are George Loddiges, Mdme. Louis Van Houtte, Bernard 
Andreas alba, Countess of Flanders, grandis, and Charmer. I also 
noticed a small plant of the Amoena type (Princess Maude) covered with 
blooms that afforded a good contrast with the large-flowering varieties. 
A plant of the new variety Flambeau is just opening its buds, but its 
chief recommendation appears to be its rich deep colour, and in this 
respect I do not think it has an equal, but the flowers are inferior both in 
size and width of the petals, it is to be hoped, however, that it will 
ultimately become, through the skill of the hybridiser, the parent of a 
variety possessing the richness of its colour with superior blooms. 
Disbudding Azaleas is recommended by some authorities, but it is not 
practised here, every bud being allowed to remain, and with good 
results. 
At one end of the house there are two fine Orange trees growing 
luxuriantly in tubs 2 feet square, laden with large numbers of fine 
expanded flowers and opening buds, that fill the house with rich 
fragrance. Looking up the middle of the stage over the gorgeous masses 
of rich colours these trees form an appropriate background. They 
produced good crops of excellent fruit last year, and promise an abundant 
one this season. All flowers are enhanced in value and more attractive 
if richly perfumed, and as the Azaleas are devoid of this quality, where 
Orange trees are not grown a few pots of Mignonette placed amongst 
them when in blossom would render the houses in which they are grown 
both fragrant and pleasant. A batch of fine Cyclamen up one side of 
the house are just going out of flower after a long season of beauty. 
The seeds were sown on the 3rd of March, 1883, and have produced fine 
healthy corms. This season’s blooming commenced in the early part of 
last November, and continued for a period of nearly five months, many 
of the plants having borne 300 fine flowers each, and for a considerable 
time about fifty have been opened at a time. The other side of the house 
is partly occupied by a batch of Strawberries in pots that are in good 
health and promise to yield a crop of luscious fruits that will outrival even 
the Orange blossom with their delicious and tempting fragrance. 
The whole is highly creditable to the head gardener, Mr. J. Udale, 
and is a proof of his ability and skill ; his success may in part be 
accounted for by the fact that he never appears to be satisfied to rest on 
his oars and glide with the stream, but is anxious each year to produce 
better results than he accomplished the previous season. “I hope to do 
better next year ” seems to be his motto, and it might be taken up by 
others with advantage to all.—J. H. S. 
RHODODENDRON YEITCHIANUM. 
I enclose for your opinion a single bloom of a seedling Rhododendron, 
raised from R. Veitchianum. There were four in the truss. I have raised 
several seedlings from R. Veitchianum, and though none excels the parent, 
they will be very useful varieties. I have had a pyramid plant of 
R. Veitchianum in flower for two months, bearing nearly two blooms, and 
the trusses very large, many having four blooms each. Cuttings of this 
fine plant have struck very readily with me, and are making vigorous 
growth, small roots from the main stem being the best, and it saves the 
flowering wood of the plants.—G. R. 
[The flower received was quite flaccid. Though not superior to the 
parent, it is evidently a pretty variety worthy of preservation.] 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Wobk in the vegetable garden must not be neglected this month, 
as on timely attention to it depends in a great measure the success 
of the year’s vegetable supply. Sowing and planting must be the 
order of the day. Wet weather may hinder this, but nothing else 
should be allowed to do so. 
Asparagus. — Reading Giant and Connover’s Colossal are splendid 
varieties, and all who wish to raise young plants of them should sow 
the seed now. Any light rich soil will suit them. Sow the seed in 
rows 1 foot apart. Open the drills 2 inches deep and fill with old 
potting or sandy soil. We sow 2 ozs. of seed annually at this time, 
and have hundreds of roots from it which come in to make good the 
plantations broken into every winter for forcing. Many heads from the 
old roots are now showing through the ground, and quantities will be 
ready for cutting by Easter. It is when at this stage of growth we have 
seen it much benefited by stimulants, and we always give them now. 
We mix salt and guano in equal parts, and shake a small handful over 
each crown when it is raining. This is soon washed down to the roots 
and does much good. It is applied fortnightly until the plants are fully 
in growth, or indeed until cutting is discontinued. 
Beetroot. —A short row or two of this may be sown at once to supply 
early roots. The Egyptian Turnip-rooted is the earliest of all. 
Parsley. —Where there is no sign of plants from the seed sown in 
February sow again in another situation. A supply of this is absolutely 
necessary, and failure must be guarded against. 
Kidney Beans. —A few of these may now be sown on a south border. 
They must have a free and open soil and a sunny situation. They are 
the most tender crop in the garden in spring, and they must be treated 
as 6uch. Our first sowing is generally made at the base of a wall, and 
they answer well there. We have lately found Cooling’s Ne Plus Ultra to 
be one of the earliest dwarf Beans. The drills for the reception of the 
seed should not be more than 3 inches deep, and the covering should be 
light and friable. 
Broccoli. —Sutton’s Late Queen is again coming in with us in fine 
condition. Broccoli in general should now be sown. All are put in at 
the same time. Some think that autumn varieties should be sown earlier 
than those which do not become useful until the spring, but it is not so; 
the variety and not the time of sowing produces a succession. Veitch’s 
Self-protecting Autumn is the best of all for use from the end of October 
until the new year. Then comes Backhouse’s, Cooling’s Matchless, 
Carter’s Spring, and Sutton’s Queen. These are our main varieties. A 
good patch of seed of each should be sown, either in row's or broadcast, 
as they will only remain in the seed ground until they are large enough 
to transplant. 
Savoys. —Sow a quantity of the Green Globe variety. 
Kale. —This should also be sown, and so should the main crop of 
Brussels Sprouts. 
Carrots. —The main crop should be sown as soon as possible. Ground 
which was heavily manured last year will be most suitable for them. 
A dressing of soot, salt, or lime forked in now will benefit them more 
than anything, and assist greatly in keeping away grubs. James’s 
Scarlet Intermediate is the most useful for a main crop. Sow in drills 
2 inches deep and 15 inches apart. Cover and roll down firmly. 
Caulifioiver. —All early plants in frames should now be planted out. 
Nothing but rich ground will produce fine heads. Planting between Pea 
rows is an excellent plan to secure shelter for early plants. Those which 
do not grow much, but “ button ” prematurely, should be drawn up at 
once, and fill their places with others. Sow successional crops. Webb’s 
Mammoth and Veitch’s Autumn Giant, if sown now, will give a supply 
from August until the Broccoli is ready. 
Potatoes. —Take the lights ofi frames on fine days. Cover at night 
when frost appears. Early-planted ones in the open are now pushing 
through the soil. Frost would ruin them, but protection must still be 
seen to. By drawing the soil well up to and over them they may be 
kept from harm for a long time. Where this cannot be done use Spruce 
or Laurel branches to protect them from frost and cutting winds. Finish 
planting late crops. 
Celery. —Transplant seedlings into boxes or beds where they can 
have a gentle heat. If placed 3 inches apart they will grow into 
bushy plants previous to being transferred to the trenches. Turnip- 
rooted Celery comes quicker to maturity than the tall sorts, and it is 
equally good for stewing or flavouring. 
Clip Box edgings. Hoe down and remove all weeds from paths and 
vegetable quarters, and have everything in the vegetable garden neat 
and attractive. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
FIGS.— Early Trees in Pots. —The fruit of the early varieties, such as 
Early Prolific and Early Violet, will soon show signs of ripening, when 
the supply of water must be gradually reduced, and syringing in their 
case must cease ; but Brown Turkey, Negro Largo, and White Marseilles 
will need a little more time, and to these give liquid manure twice a week 
and syringe once or twice a day. Ventilate freely, but avoid currents of 
cold air, for much as the admission of air improves the texture of the 
foliage and the quality of the fruit, cold draughts cripple the foliage and 
are highly injurious. When the days are bright and the wind cold it is 
advisable to turn off the heat early in the morning, so as to allow the 
pipes to get cool and lessen the necessity for much ventilation, turning on 
the heat again at closing time. The night temperature should now be 
kept at 60° to 65°, 65° to 70° by day from fire heat, and keep between 75° 
and 80° through the day with sun heat. Close early and allow a rise of 10” 
after closing, as Figs to swell off well need abundance of heat and full 
exposure to the light. Surface-dress the soil with decayed manure. 
Young Plants in Pots. —Trees potted last month should be shifted into 
10-inch pots before they become rootbound, using plenty of crocks and a 
. compost of chopped turf, a sixth of old decayed manure, and a tenth of 
