April 17, 1884. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
297 
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Liunean Society at 8 P.ll. 
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F 
19 
S 
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SUN 
1st Sunday after Easter. 
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Jl 
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TU 
Royal Horticultural Society. (Fruit and Floral Committees at 11 A.M.) 
28 
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Royal Botanic Society’s Second Spring Show. Newcastle-on-Tyne 
[Spring Show 
WINTER-FLOWERING ERICAS. 
0 plants at tlie present time are grown on a larger 
{ scale for purposes of decoration than softwood ed 
iftW / or winter-flowering Heaths ; yet their cultivation 
appears to he limited to a few individuals, who 
grow them annually to perfection, and then they 
\|gjj / 1 are disposed of for decoration all over the country. 
These model specimens find their way into the 
majority of gardens, and finally, I suppose, to the 
rubbish heap. This must he the case, for seldom 
indeed are they to he found in private establishments well 
grown ; in fact, their successful cultivation does not appear 
to be generally understood. 
The greatest hindrance to their cultivation is probably 
the mistaken notion that they will not do well a second year, 
and that they cannot be well grown in the provinces. There 
is no foundation for such ideas, if only skill, time, and labour 
can be accorded the plants, as can be fully demonstrated. 
There is another evil through which hundreds of these Heaths 
are annually injured or killed. This results from crowding 
them amongst other flowering plants in conservatories or 
other similar structures. Fire heat is generally used in these 
structures, and often the plants have to be stood upon open 
trellises directly over the pipes, which dries them too rapidly. 
In addition to this, they are often carelessly watered, being 
either too dry or too wet, which only adds to the evil, and 
this is not the condition of plants in solitary instances, but 
in many places. 
I do not intend to detail any system of propagation, for 
there is neither time nor convenience in private gardens to 
attend to this, and it is not necessary, for good plants can be 
purchased cheaply. I shall rather endeavour to detail their 
cultivation from the time they are in 4 or 5-inch pots, which 
will be more useful at this season of the year. The time to 
purchase the plants entirely depends upon what they are 
required for. If to be grown into large specimens, they 
should be obtained any time from the present up to June; 
if for decoration, buy them in the autumn when set with 
buds, which is the best in the majority of cases. 
To grow plants on into a large size it is best to start with 
those that have never flowered, but have been prepared for 
flowering next winter. These will be healthy little plants in 
5-incli pots, and could after received be grown in cold 
frames. Their young shoots will be 2 or 3 inches in length, 
and should be allowed to extend until June without being 
stopped, when the points of all their leading growths should 
be pinched out and the strongest tied out, bringing them 
gradually towards the rim of the pots. If kept close for 
about a fortnight they will break into growth again and 
should be transferred into pots 2 inches larger. After 
potting they must be kept close until their roots are working 
freely in the new soil, when they can again be grown in a 
well-ventilated house, as in the earlier part of the season. 
These plants may be again pinched in September, but not 
later, so that they can pass the winter safely with sturdy 
growths about 1 inch in length. These will not flower under 
No. 199.— Yol, VIII., Third Series. 
this treatment, but will form grand bushes 7 or 8 inches 
through, and will be in the most satisfactory condition for 
flowering the following autumn if grown without stopping. 
If larger plants still are required, grow them the second year 
subject to the same treatment of stopping, and potting when 
needed ; but one shift will probably be ample; though this 
depends upon the quantity of roots made in the 7-inch pots 
early the second season. 
Old plants, or those obtained in autumn, need every 
attention while in flower as regards watering and position if 
they are retained for another year. After they have flowered 
in any structure where a little heat has been maintained, 
they should not be placed in a cold greenhouse, or they will 
be checked after being excited into action ; but should have a 
temperature at first very similar to that in which they 
flowered, and should be carefully and gradually hardened to 
cool treatment again. They should be cut close back after 
flowering, and if kept in rather a close atmosphere at first 
they will soon break into growth. In fact, E. liyemalis, 
E. Wilmoreana, and E. melanthera are benefited by being 
kept rather close until they commence growth ; but this must 
not be attempted with E. gracilis or E. caffra, or they will 
soon become a prey to mildew, for they cannot endure a 
confined atmosphere. 
There can be no doubt that the best time to repot winter¬ 
flowering Heaths is directly their roots are active in spring. 
Cut-back plants, for instance, will be ready as soon as they 
have made from half to 1 inch of growth. The sooner 
potting can be done in the season the better, before the sun 
has too much power. The longer water can be withheld 
after potting the better for the plants, because it gives their 
roots ample time to recover. The old soil, before being 
turned out, should be moist, but not too wet. The soil for 
these plants should consist of firm fibry peat and a liberal 
dash of silver sand. The former must be good and of a 
nature that will not become sour through watering quickly, 
at the same time it must not be too light. After the plants 
are turned out of their pots remove carefully the drainage 
from the base of the old ball, but do not attempt to liberate 
the roots, for this is injurious and often proves fatal. 
The pots in which the plants are to be placed must 
be well drained. A large crock should be placed at the 
bottom, over this a few smaller pieces carefully arranged, 
on these some still smaller, and over all some of the roughest 
of the compost. In potting the collar of the plant should not 
be buried, and sufficient space must be left to hold plenty of 
water to soak the whole mass of soil. The new soil must be 
made firm in the pots to prevent water passing through it 
and leaving the old soil dry. Large shifts should not be given, 
those in 5-inch pots being placed into 7-incli, while E. gracilis 
and its varieties should have the smallest possible shift, for 
they appear to flower more freely when their pots become 
full of roots by the time growth is completed. 
After potting, if the plants have been subject to ordinary 
greenhouse treatment during the past few weeks, they may 
be placed in cold frames and stood upon ashes, or a similar 
moisture-holding material. The position of the frame must 
be such that the sun will not strike directly upon the 
plants, to render shading necessary ; but if such a position 
cannot be found, moderate shade must be applied during 
bright sunshine, at least until they are rooting in the new 
soil. The frame should be kept close until they are in this 
condition, giving a little air only during the middle of the 
day when warm. Early in the afternoon damp the pots and 
material upon which the plants stand, and if very hot syringe 
the plants lightly and close the frame. This treatment will 
soon induce an active growth, when more liberal ventilation 
during the day and at night, also when mild, will ensure 
a strong sturdy growth. All through the summer too much 
air cannot be given. The lights should be drawn off the 
plants both day and night ; in fact, they should only be 
employed to protect them from heavy rains. They will, when 
No. 1855.— Yol. LXX., Old Series. 
