May 1, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
839 
There are no hundreds or thousands of young plants pulled up and 
thrown away, but all are allowed to grow and form bulbs. Home of 
these, where the plants are thin, may be a few inches apart, and form 
bulbs 10 ozs., 12 ozs,, or 14 ozs. in weight each ; others may be closer, 
and the bulbs may be so crowded together that the majority of them 
may not become larger than a hen’s egg ; but what size more use¬ 
ful than this could anyone desire to keep until winter and on through¬ 
out the spring ? When unthinned the weight of crop and quantity of 
bulbs secured from even the smallest piece of ground is astonishing, 
and as I have practised the system for some years against others, I can 
thoroughly recommend non-thinniDg as the best way of securing a 
large quantity of the most useful bulbs.—J. Muir. 
NOTES ON ORCHIDS. 
Cattleya Skinneri. —This most useful and free-flowering 
Orchid is in fine condition at Elmer’s Lodge, Beckenham, the 
residence of John Goddard, Esq. In a small house something 
like 430 blooms and buds are to be seen. The plants are mostly 
in 32-size pots, and have on an average three flowering growths, 
some spikes carrying from six to eight of its beautiful rose- 
purple flowers, many being very rich in colour. They are 
growing in more heat than is generally recommended for this 
plant, together with fine healthy masses of Laelia anceps, on 
which forty blooms were open some time since. They receive 
no particular treatment, being potted in fibrous peat and 
supplied liberally with water during the growing season. In 
a cool house I noticed some good plants of Odontoglossum 
stelligerum with sixteen branching spikes, also good forms of 
Cattleva Mendelli. Of Oncidium tigrinum I measured pseudo¬ 
bulbs 8 inches in circumference, which produce splendid spikes 
in their season. All alike seem to be thriving under the care 
of Mr. W. Reed, the energetic and hard-working gardener. 
Pruning Dbndrobiums. —I cannot see any advantage in 
this system. A plant of D. nobile in our own collection was 
neglected and not properly ripened, consequently it made a 
lot of young growths where the flowers should have been, with 
aerial roots. These were taken off and potted in the spring. 
They made small growth the first year, but much finer the 
second season. The old pseudo-bulbs were not more than from 
6 to 8 inches high, but produced growths the next year 2 feet 
6 inches long, proving to our satisfaction that they must draw 
support from the old ones, as was apparent in both instances, or 
why were the growths so weak and short before and so much 
stronger afterwards? My opinion is that while these young 
ones were drawing on the support of the old pseudo-bulbs, those 
in their proper place at the base were being robbed of the 
nourishment, and consequently small. D. Dearii, I believe, 
will produce good flowers for years on the same growths, and 
should never be cut out till dead. We have D. thyrsiflorum 
blooming on growths which have flowered two years previously, 
although they are comparatively withered. Had these been cut 
out it would have been a loss of from thirty to fifty flowers each. 
D. densiflorum and D. Farmeri frequently bloom on the old 
pseudo-bulbs. We have also had imported Dendrobes make a 
good growth before commencing to root. Does not this prove 
that the young growth is partly dependant on the old ?— 
G. W. 0. 
Dendrochlltjms. — I find that these plants are much less 
happy in the East India house — where from their native 
habitat one might expect them to thrive best—than they are 
when grown along with some Odontoglossums and Cattleyas. 
We possessed several fine plants of D. glumaceum, the graceful 
plume-like hay-scented species, and thinking that by giving 
them stove treatment they would increase more rapidly, we 
placed them along with the East Indian Orchids. The result 
was exactly opposite to what we desired, and it was only by 
drying them for a time and then cutting away all the worst 
portions and placing what was left in the Cattleya house that 
we saved them from certain death. The newer species, such as 
D. Cobbianum and D. filiforme, are equally well suited in the 
Cattleya house. Although not possessed of any showiness, these 
Orchids, from the delicacy and grace of their flower spikes and 
their fragrance, deserve a place in every large Orchid collection. 
Cypripediltm nivexjm.— Few growers are successful with 
this gem among Lady's Slippers, and judging from what I 
have seen, and my own experience in its cultivation, the cause 
of failure is not far to seek. Most of the Cypripediums prefer 
a shady corner in the warm house and a light peaty soil about 
their roots. C. niveum, however, is exceptional in these two 
particulars, as it thrives well only when planted m pure strong 
loam, and when placed on a shelf quite close to the glass, where 
all the light possible, minus direct sunshine, can reach it. Under 
this treatment our plants are very satisfactory, and a large batch 
at the Clapton Nurseries, which is treated in a way similar to 
that advised is, in the strength and health of the foliage, a still 
further proof of the fitness of the treatment. 
Sophronitis gran diflora.— Although this precious little 
Orchid may be well grown in pans, it never looks so well as 
when fastened on to a short portion of Thom or Apple branch 
with the bark left on and imbedded in a good layer of healthy 
sphagnum. Grown thus it may have a good bath daily without 
any risk of sourness through overwatering, and when thickly 
studded with its brilliant flowers it looks much more natural, 
more at home, than such a plant can look when planted in a pot 
or pan. Hung up near the glass on the shaded side of the 
Cattleya house, its little pseudo-bulbs and thick fleshy leaves 
are ever developing, while the roots go on creeping round the 
block as freely as one need wish to see who hopes for a good 
crop of bloom. Never grow this plant in a high temperature, 
or, rather, do not try to do so, or failure is sure to follow. 
There is a great difference in the size of the flowers of different 
plants of this Orchid. I have seen some nearly 3 inches iu 
diameter, whilst others are barely an inch. They are,’ however, 
all beautiful, for beauty does not go hand in hand with size, as 
too many of our Orchid fanciers seem to think. 
Calanthes.— I would advise anyone not well up in Calanthe 
management not to be in a hurry to start their plants by bringing 
them into a warm moist house. Too early a start often means 
weakness and spot before the new growth gets well away. If 
the pseudo-bulbs have been kept in a dry house or shed where 
the temperature has not exceeded 55° or 60° they will still be 
dormant, and the longer they are allowed to remain so the better 
the new growth will be. When they are ready the pseudo-bull s 
will of themselves show signs of activity, an*d then will be the 
time to prepare the rich mixture of loam, peat, and manure, and 
pot the plants.—W. 
Pruning Dendrobitjms.—I am much obliged by “ B.’s 
reply this week, which is most interesting, because it records 
the fact of Dendrobium nobile blooming freely on the last 
year’s pseudo-bulbs in the same manner as D. Wardanum— 
a most unusual circumstance, for its common habit is to flower 
on the two-year-old pseudo-bulbs, and it is so described by 
authorities on Orchids. I have pruned our Dendrobiums, of 
several sorts, for several years without doing the plants the 
least harm, but have not got the last-formed pseudo-bulbs to 
bloom yet, so far as I recollect. I have, however, looked 
critically into one plant to-day, and have found one pseudo¬ 
bulb of last year’s growth, 1883, pushing out a few t owers, one 
or two just bursting through the winter bark. The plants 
flowered freely some time ago on the two-year-old pseudo¬ 
bulbs, and have been pruned and started, and these flower buds 
have pushed since. It would be interesting to know if the 
flowering of “B.’s” plants on the new bulbs is in any way 
due to pruning? — J. S. 
TYING DOWN VINE SHOOTS. 
Tying down the laterals of Vines is like everything else— 
easy enough when experience has taught the way; but beginners 
have often to learn at the expense of the Vines. Perhaps a few 
lines on this subject may not be out of place at this season of 
the year, when much of that sort of work has to be done. First 
of all I would say, Do not be in too great a hurry to tie down the 
laterals to the wires. If taken down when too soft thejr imme¬ 
diately begin to twist and distort themselves. If the vinery is 
built at such an angle as will allow of the laterals remaining 
free till ready to be permanently tied down so much the better; 
but if not, they should be gradually drawn down and secured 
with raffia till such time as they can be laid down to the wires 
and firmly tied. Another thiug is, Never be afraid to use the 
raffia; it is cheap, and strong pieces should be used, so that 
there can be little chance of the annoyance of seeing shoots 
broken down by the w’eight of the bunch or the swelling of the 
lateral having burst the tie. When cutting the raffia after tying 
do not cut it too close; leave half an inch of the ends. This 
may seem a small matter, but it is worth attending to. When 
cut too closely the swelling of the lateral sometimes forces the 
t e loose, and consequently down come the shoot and bunch. 
Attention may be given to those laterals having bunches on 
them, in order that they may have extra strong and secure ties, 
those not having bunches being able, of course, to do with 
slighter ties; but raffia is so cheap that most people can afford 
to give all their Vine shoots a strong tie. 
When brtngii g the lateral down to the wire, take firm hold 
