354 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 1, 1884. 
to the growths on the “ middle ” rod being weaker than the others? We 
suspect that rod to be older than the others, but you do not say so. Your 
other question will be answered in a future issue. Your address has been 
handed to the publisher. When business and editorial matter are mixed 
together confusion is certain to arise, as the two departments are distinct. 
You only sent stamps sufficient for four papers, and they will be sent to you. 
Vine Leaves. Curled ( J. T. S.). —When bright sun suddenly occurs after 
several days of dull weather there is always great danger of the foliage 
scorching, as in the example you have sent. Assuming that the border 
is moist, you will do well to spread a little netting over any Vine that shows 
signs of flagging, this usually being a precursor to the curling of the leaves, 
or a sprinkling of lime wash on the glass with a syringe has the same effect, 
and it is easily washed off again. You appear to have done right in damping 
the house, but you permitted the temperature to rise dangerously high, and 
your other Vines cannot but have had a narrow escape. Your night and 
fire heat temperatures are correct, but you must be particular in opening the 
top ventilators (slightly at first) very early in the morning, or half an hour 
at the most after the sun shines on the house. 
Millipedes in Soil (R. B.). —As your “potting soil is full of millipedes’’ 
you must destroy them before using it. This you may do easily, and also 
render the soil more fertile by the process. The remedy is by baking it by 
placing it in trays and making it hot over a fire. With a brisk fire and an 
old tea-tray you may soon prepare a quantity of soil, which, however, must 
be sprinkled with water and made properly moist before using. You will be 
surprised to find how well all kinds of bulbous and softwooded plants will 
grow in soil that has been thus treated, while you will neither have worms 
nor millipedes in your flower pots. It is very difficult indeed to destroy 
these pests when they have found their way into bulbs. The safest of ail 
remedies is lime water—a lump of lime as large as your hand with five or 
six gallons—and it should be applied in a perfectly clear state. 
Woodlice in Mushroom Bed (IF . B. G.). —If yon cut Potatoes in halves 
and scoop out much of the inside of each portion and place them about the beds 
they will attract numbers of these insects, and they may be instantaneously, 
hence painlessly, killed by shaking them into boiling water. Boiled potatoes 
envelopr d in a little hay and placed in empty flower pots and these laid on 
their sides prove enticing to woodlice, while pieces of parsnips boiled in an 
arsenical solution are deadly baits. We do not think you have much to fear 
from millipedes, which may be caught in a similar manner as woodlice. They 
have a partiality, however, for decayed matter, and do not object to a decay¬ 
ing Apple or bread smeared with treacle. If there are fissures at the sides 
of the bed the insects will congregate there, and boiling water poured in 
will prevent their coming out again, but it must not be sprinkled on the sur¬ 
face of the bed. 
Repotting Ericas (IF. IF. IF.).—The advice that was given in a recent 
issue not to attempt to liberate the roots from the soil when repotting applies 
equally to summer and winter-flowering Heaths. A little root-disturbance 
by removing the crocks, also by clearing away a portion of the loose surface 
soil, is all that should be permitted in transferring Ericas from small into 
larger pots, and even in those respects the work of liberating the roots must 
be done with great care and much caution. In potting these plants it is 
important that both the soil in which the roots are established, and that to be 
used is heathily moist. If either too wet or too dry success will not follow. 
The new soil must also be pressed as firmly round the roots as the old is, a 
blunted stick being used for that purpose. Many Ericas are spoiled by 
potting them too lightly and disturbing the roots needlessly. 
Peas for August {Brevity). —It is utterly impossible for anyone to 
answer your question categorically, simply because no one can know the 
exact character of the weather you will experience during the season. The 
varieties named will probably need from fourteen to sixteen weeks from the 
time of sowing to the time of gathering, and you had better, therefore, sow 
a portion at once, and the remaining portion as soon as the plants from the 
first sowing appear through the surface of the ground. For producing large 
pods it is often advisable to sow in trenches prepared as for Celery, but with 
a greater depth of soil and manure, the surface of the rows after the seed is 
covered, being 2 or 3 inches below the general level of the ground. Thin 
sowing is advantageous, or at least early thinning, as the plants will be quite 
close enough if they are 2 inches apart, two or three rows at the distance 
indicated being provided in each trench according to its width. Placing the 
sticks to the plants early is also of importance, as if the plants are suffered 
to fall over they seldom grow luxuriously afterwards. Grown in trenches 
any quantity of liquid manure can be given, and the finest Peas cannot be 
grown without it. The pods are also still finer if the plants are topped after 
four or five pairs of pods are set. If you want Peas for exhibition you had 
better top some when three pairs of pods are set, as you will then have the 
better chance of having fine pods at the time you need them. This is a 
matter, however, in which you must exercise judgment at the time, as no 
one can tell you exactly what to do two or three months hence. 
Marechal Niel Rose Scorching (A. S. D). —A tree so large in a border 
so small needs a very large quantity of water, and we have little doubt that 
the roots have been too dry, perhaps especially round the sides of the pit or 
border. A heavy dressing of soot, covering the surface of the soil an eighth 
of an inch thick, and watering it in with four gallons of tepid water, would 
be almost certain to have a beneficial effect, as would a similar application to 
your Jean Ducher, of course limiting the quantity of water to the requirements 
of the plant, erring, however, if you err at al 1 , in giving too much than too 
little. Defective root-action, or, what amounts to the same thing, inadequate 
support, is one of the chief causes of the blooms not expanding. The glass 
of your house may have lens in it, and in this case light shading may be 
needed, and if so it should be given ; but, generally speaking, healthy Roses 
well supported and growing in a well-ventilated house will endure full sun 
with impunity, even benefit. 
Aphides on Lettuces (71 B.). —If the Lettuces are far advanced for use 
—that is, nearly ready for cutting, any deleterious applications would 
impair their quality. If the plants are young you may syringe them with 
a solution of softsoap, as you propose ; but if they are of good size and the 
present leaves intended to be eaten, we know of no better method of eradi¬ 
cating the insects than by syringing the plants with water, heated to 1..0 . 
This will not injure them, while it will destroy many of the insects. If yon 
have not a thermometer you may test the water with your hand ; if you can 
endure its immersion for a quarter of a minute, but not longer, it will be hot 
enough to dispose of the green fly if it is forcibly applied on two. or thiee 
consecutive evenings. Try its effects on a few plants at first, experimenting 
with half a dozen, also with water even a little hotter, and note the results^ 
the following evening. You will then find by experience how to proceed toi 
destroying the insects without injuring the Lettuces. 
Insects {J. G. M., Liverpool ).—The specimens sent belong to the species 
of beetle called the bacon beetle (Dermestes lardarius), some being larva?,, 
others mature beetles. Their particular food is bacon and ham, hence the 
name, but they also devour skins and display cannibalistic tendencies. They 
would not meddle with any kind of fruit or vegetable. Where a colony of 
them have established themselves in a room there is no method of dealing 
with them except that of removing all that can be discovered, looking 
particularly into any cracks or nooks where the beetles might hide. To- 
keep them out of any room a powerful odour is efficacious, such as the smell 
of paraffin or of a herb, such as Pennyroyal, dried. 
Daisies on Lawns {Irish Subscriber). —There is no doubt about the value 
of household slops for applying to lawns ; indeed, liquid manure of almost 
any kind is beneficial. We have recently inspected a lawn that has been 
immensely improved by being watered with the diluted drainings from a 
manure heap. The presence of Daisies in lawns is nearly always indicative 
of poverty of soil. An excellent dressing is a mixture of superphosphate or 
lime and nitrate of soda, two-thirds of the former and one-third of the latter 
applied during showery weather at the rate of 2 ozs. per square yard at 
intervals of a fortnight. If dry weather prevails it is a good plan to well 
water the lawn before applying the fertilisers, and then again afterwards to 
convey their virtues to the roots of the grass. Mixtures of guano and salt 
and soot and salt also act beneficially, so also do bonemeal and wood ashes- 
We mention these different ingredients in order that you may use what is 
the most convenient or readily obtainable. The most effectual mode of 
destroying Dandelions and Plantains is to drop a little sulphuric ac:d into- 
the heart of each plant, as was recently recommended in these columns. 
Some persons have found lawn sand effectual in destroying Daisies. 
Vines Scorched (X. Y. Z .).—The leaf sent is seriously scorched. The 
cause of this is the excessive transpiration of moisture from the foliage. 
Whenever this escapes more rapidly than it is supplied by the roots, first a 
slight flagging, then a shrivell’ng of the foliage follows. Vines growing so 
luxuriantly as yours appear to be doing need much water, often more than 
they receive ; and you had better examine the border and ascertain whether 
the soil is moist or not quite to the drainage. They also need great care in 
ventilation, especially in the gradual admission of air very early in the morn¬ 
ing. Although you do not quite close the house at night, we fear you do not 
always admit more air sufficiently early, or that you allow the temperature 
of the house to rise too high at times, and then throw open the ventilators 
too wide to reduce it. The size of the leaf and its thinness of texture leads 
us to the conclusion we have arrived at. It is certainly not such an example 
as a free-growing Vine would p oduce under a judicious system of ventilation 
of opening the lights at intervals in advance of the increasing temperature, 
and preventing its reaching its maximum by a rush. If we are mistaken in 
our opinion, and if the Vines have had sufficient water, and there has been 
no mistake in ventilating the house, then the only thing that can be done to 
prevent the collapse of the foliage is to slightly shade the Vines when a 
bright day occurs after a term of dull weather. It is often necessary to do 
this, and frequently shading is resorted to just after the injury is done. A 
little hexagon netting suffices, or a slight sprinkling of limewash on the- 
glass. Shading Vines is, generally speaking, a measure to be avoided as far 
as possible, but it is decidedly preferable to scorched leaves. You say 
nothing about the temperature you maintain in the house. 
Insects on Ferns {T. II.). —The pest is a small species of Oniscus or 
woodlouse, as you appear to have conjectured. They flourish in moist mild 
winters, and are apt to be very troublesome to a variety of plants during 
spring, especially those in pots. Trapping them iB found to be the best plan 
of taking them, small pots being placed in their haunts filled with dry 
horse droppings, or preferably with slices of boiled potato or parsnip, which 
they will discover and swarm upon. They can then be shaken out into 
boiling water. 
Name of Fruit {E. J.).— We have taken time to examine your Apple 
and to compare it with others, but are unable to determine its name. It is 
probably a local variety, of which there are hundreds that have never been 
authoritatively named. 
Names of Plants {Somerset). —As near as we could ascertain from the 
crushed specimen received the tree is Acer Pseudo-platanus, or some variety 
of that species. ( IF. H. M .).—Specimen imperfect, but apparently it is 
Euonymus europseus. {J. G. M.).— -Doryopteris palmata. {G. C.). —1, Nar¬ 
cissus bicolor Horsefieldi; 2 and 3, double varieties of Narcissus Pseudo¬ 
narcissus. {T. B.). —1, Begonia nigrescens ; 2, Begonia odorata; 3, not 
recognisable ; 4, Dendrobium densiflorum album. {J. IF. B.). —1, cannot be 
determined without flowers; 2, Lygodium scandens ; 3, Myrsiphyllum asr 
paragoides ; 4, Selaginella uncinata : 5, The varieti- s of the ornamental- 
foliage Begonias are now so numerous that we cannot undertake to name 
them. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— April 30th. 
No alteration in prices, but clearances more readily effected. 
FRUIT. 
s. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
Apples .. .. 
.. J sieve 
i 
6 
to 5 
0 
Oranges. 
6 
0 to 10 
0 
Chestnuts .. 
.. bushel 
10 
0 
0 
0 
Pears, kitchen 
dozen 
1 
0 
l 
6 
Figs .. .. 
.. dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
„ dessert 
dozen 
1 
0 
5 
0 
Filberts.. .. 
.. .. ft. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pine Apples English 
.. ft. 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Cobs 
.. per ft. 
1 
8 
1 
6 
Plums and Damsons 
0 
0 
0 
0 
G-rapes .. .. 
.. .. ft. 
5 
0 
10 
0 
Strawberries.. 
. ft. 
2 
0 
6 
O 
Lemon .. .. 
.. i. case 
15 
0 
21 
0 
St. Michael Pines 
. each 
2 
0 
8 
0 
