372 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 8, 1*84. 
Exercise great care in the removal of the fruit from the trees, as the 
slightest pressure of the fingers disfigures the fruit; and do not allow 
them to remain on the trees until they are dead ripe, when it is past 
its best for eating, the fruit being best gathered when it parts readily 
from the trees and laid on a padded shelf in the fruit room for a day or 
two, whilst that intended for packing should be gathered a day or two in 
advance of ripening as compared with that for home use. 
Succession Houses. —Proceed with the usual routine, keeping the trees 
in vigorous health by the timely application of water to the roots and 
foliage, and mulch the borders with short partially decayed manure. 
Attend to early ventilation, and close early so as to husband the SUn 
heat, and with plenty of moisture the swelling will he considerably 
accelerated. Should red spider appear more forcible syringings should 
be resorted to, to dislodge it, and if these do not answer promptly apply 
an insecticide, whilst for mildew dust with flowers of sulphur. If aphides 
be present fumigate on two or three consecutive evenings moderately, 
being careful to have the foliage dry and to deliver the smoke cool. In 
the battle with insects it is important that the onslaught be made upon 
their first appearance and before they have obtained a hold on the trees, 
when the moderate use of insecticides would prevent their spreading and 
injuring the foliage and fruit. Allow a moderate extension of the growth 
whilst the fruit is stoning, and in no case encourage more shoots than 
will be necessary for tying-in to furnish the trees and to supply wood for 
future bearing. 
Late Houses. —The fruit in these promises to be more than usually 
valuable from the scarcity of fruit on the open walls in autumn; hence 
where there is a demand for late fruit arrangements should be made for 
meeting the deficiency by retarding the late trees in -houses and wall 
cases, which must be done in the earlier stages of growth, and this is in 
every way preferable to shading the house when the fruit begins to ripen. 
If taken in hand now the midseason varieties may be kept back so as to 
ripen in September ; but to effect this it will be necessary to throw open 
all doors and ventilators when the weather is mild, and to keep the floors 
well damped with cold water. Mulch over the roots with short manure, 
keeping it constantly moist, and in the case of trees that do not need 
stimulating employ cocoa-nut fibre refuse. The borders should be freely 
watered through the growing season. 
Melons. — In Pits and Frames. —When the pits and frames have been 
cleared of early Potatoes, &c., they may be filled with plants that have 
been reared for the purpose. In most cases it will be advisable to turn 
over the leaves, adding a little fresh litter or leaves, so as to bring up the 
bed to the required distance from the glass, allowing a few inches for 
settling, which will entirely depend on the manner the bed is made, for 
with the leaves firmly trodden together at the time of placing them in the 
pit the subsidence will not be great, but when put in loosely it will be 
considerable. In the case of beds for frames merely turning over the 
materials and adding a little fresh to keep up the sides will generate a 
genial heat sufficient to give the plants a start. Level the surface and put 
in the centre of each light a couple of barrowloads of soil, rather strong 
loam being most suitable, and spread this out so that a flattened hillock is 
formed 10 inches in depth, and the surface of the bed covered with soil 
2 inches thick, and when this has been in the frames a couple of days the 
plants may be put out. Place a plant in the centre of each hillock, the 
plants having been well watered a few hours previous, pressing the soil 
firmly about them in planting; and if the sun be bright shade for a few 
hours daily until the plants become established, when it must be discon¬ 
tinued. Although it is advisable to turn over the beds and add a little 
fresh material, it may he dispensed with when the soil in the pits is 
already sufficiently near the glass, treading the soil down firmly and 
raising it a little in the centre of each light, so that the water may drain 
away from the collar of the plant. Admit a little air at about eight o’clock 
when there is the prospect of a fine day, and this will prevent scorching, 
keeping it through the day at 80° to 85°, and close at 3 to 4 p.m. on fine days, 
or earlier, accoiding to the weather. Sow seed for raising plants to put out 
in pits, frames, or houses that will soon be cleared of bedding plants, 
bottom heat in their case not being essential, as by keeping close, ventilating 
early in the day, and closing as soon as safe in the afternoon, satisfactory 
crops may be obtained and be useful, as outdoor fruits do not promise to be 
very plentiful. 
Cucumbers. —Plants in houses will need syringing twice a day, and 
both ways, so that every part of the foliage may he thoroughly cleansed of 
red spider ; but if this obtain a hold use an insecticide at a safe strength. 
For thrips fumigate carefully, the same means being employed to destroy 
aphides. Afford liberal and frequent applications of tepid liquid manure to 
plants in full bearing, and be careful not to overcrop. Reduce fire heat as 
much as practicable, and let the atmospheric moisture be correspondingly 
reduced. Attend to the plants not less than twice a week for stopping, 
thinning out old growths and training young in their place, so as to keep 
up a succession of bearing wood ; but be careful not to overcrowd, removing 
had leaves as they appear. Shade only to prevent flagging. 
Plants in frames will need watering over the foliage on fine afternoons, 
hut every second or third day will be ample, and on dull days must not he 
practised. Keep the growths stopped one joint beyond the fruit, and do 
not allow them to become overcrowded, but thin out both young and 
exhausted growths gradually, keeping up a steady succession of growth 
showing fruit, and so insure an unbroken succession. To secure straight 
fine-looking fruit place them in glasses. If necessary, sow for succession, 
it being better to have an over rather than an under supply of fruit. Still 
continue night coverings and attend to the linings as necessary. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Phajus grandi/olius . —Plants that have rested may now be turned out 
of their pots, and the whole of the old soil shaken from their roots and 
fresh supplied. This should be done annually, for they will grow more 
luxuriantly when subject to this treatment than if left undisturbed for 
two or three years. While in active growth this Phajus requires abundance 
of water, and the soil soon becomes sour, which they dislike about their 
roots. For purposes of decoration they are the best in 7-inch or 8-inch 
pots, or even smaller. The pots should be well drained, but the soil must 
not be elevated above the rim of their pots ; on the contrary, when 
potting is finished sufficient space should be left for water. In potting 
the soil must be worked well and carefully amongst the roots, and pressed 
moderately firmly into the pots. After potting place them in a close 
moist temperature of about 65° at night, and they will soon start into 
growth. Particular attention is needed in watering at first, for they 
make several inches of growth before fresh roots are formed ; and if over¬ 
watered before their roots are active they seldom grow well or strongly. 
It is much better to err on the side of dryness than to give too much ; 
in fact, if the atmosphere is moist very little water will be needed. 
These plants should not be syringed until they are growing freely, or the 
foliage is liable to become spotted. When they are growing freely and 
rooting the old foliage may be removed. The compost most suitable is 
good fibry peat and loam in equal parts, about one-seventh of cow manure 
prepared by drying, and then passed through a fine sieve ; a little 
charcoal, meal, and quarter-inch bones and sand. 
CalantTies .—The earliest plants of these have commenced growing 
from the base of last year’s pseudo-bulbs, and may now be potted without 
further delay. A number may be placed together in pots if specimen 
plants are required, or they can be grown Bingly, which is the best for 
decorative purposes, as the smaller the pots the easier they are hidden 
when in flower by Ferns and other plants. The compost, temperature, 
watering, and syringing advised for Phajus will suit these plants well. 
If the watering be left to the inexperienced place them singly into 3-inch 
pots, to be transferred into 5-inch and 6-inch when they are growing and 
rooting freely. Careful watering and withholding the syringe in the 
early stages of growth is the secret of success. Calanthes do well in 
small wire baskets suspended from the roof, and when well grown they 
have a charming appearance when in flower. In baskets they should be 
started in pots, placing three or four together, according to the size of the 
baskets, in the smallest pots in which they can be placed, and finally, 
when growing freely, into the baskets. To increase the stock retain and 
pot all the old pseudo-bulbs, for nearly the whole of C. Veitchii will 
make plants. The tops of strong pseudo-bulbs may also be taken off and 
potted for the same purpose, and if strong many of them will flower in 
the autumn and winter. 
Cattleyas .—These may be kept a few degrees warmer, the house 
ranging at night from 60° to 65°, with a rise of 10° by day. As many of 
them have commenced growth and are rooting freely, air should be 
admitted daily when favourable, and more moisture may be maintained 
in the atmosphere than has been necessary up to the present time. More 
water should also be given to those that are rooting freely. Care must 
be taken that water does not lodge in the young growths, for they are 
liable to damp if the atmosphere of the house is kept close and confined. 
If air is freely admitted after the plants have been watered there will be 
no danger from this cause. Those in flower should be stood at the 
coolest and driest end of the house, as the flowers will last much longer 
that they will at the warmer and moister end. If the plants can be 
taken into another structure while in flower so much the better. A 
sharp look-out must be kept for scale and thrips, especially the latter, 
which will soon spread and do much mischief if not eradicated. 
Dendrobiums .—Such species as D. Farmerii, D. chrysotoxum, D. 
densiflorum, D. thyrsiflorum and others of this style of growth that have 
flowered have commenced pushing their growths from the base, and 
are in the best condition for repotting if they need it. These should 
be examined, whether grown in pots or baskets ; if the latter are decayed 
give a larger size. As much of the old decomposed soil about their roots 
as possible should be removed, and fresh peat fibre and one-third moss 
with lumps of charcoal intermixed supplied. If in pots and well rooted 
the pots should be broken, and the portions to which the roots cling 
should not be disturbed but placed into the new pots. The pots must 
be well drained and the plants raised well above the rim. The surface 
should not be mossed until the plants are growing and rooting freely. 
Charcoal in good-sized lumps should be used freely. Water carefully 
until the plants are rooting freely, when liberal quantities may be given, 
Plants of D. Devonianum, D. Wardianum, D. nobile, D. chrysanthum, 
D. crassinode, D. crystallinum, D. primulinum, and many others in 
active growth should be syringed twice daily and given abundance of 
water. Watch the first-mentioned, for it is very subject to red spider, 
and must be sponged with a weak solution of Fir tree oil if observed, or 
it will soon arrest the growth. Red spider will not give much trouble 
if the atmosphere is kept moist and the plants well syringed. 
SPRING PROSPECTS FOR 1884. 
Whejt the cold dreary days and long nights of winter are over 
and the warm breath of spring is felt bees begin to stir themselves, 
casting aside with unmistakeable vigour the inactivit which has 
