May 22, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
411 
supplies during August and September. Tom Thumb or Tennis Ball is a 
choice summer Lettuce, aud the Kingsholm Cos variety is useful in warm 
weather, being very large, tender, and crisp. 
Kidney Beans .—A good sowing of the Canadian Wonder variety 
should be put into good soil and a favoured position. This is the finest of 
all the dwarf Beans, and should be grown in every garden. It grows 
18 inches high and is rather spreading, and for this reason the seed should 
be planted singly 6 or 8 inches apart. 
Rhubarb and Seakale showing bloom should have all the Rower stems 
cut off to the ground. Asparagus should have a handful of salt put round 
each crown when it is raining. 
Spinach .—The supply of this can only be kept up by frequent sowings 
at this season. We sow a few rows weekly. The first sowing which has 
done ns good service is now over, and has been thrown away. Lettuces 
have been dibbled in its place. 
Earth up Cauliflowers, Cabbages, early Brussels Sprouts &c.. before 
the plant; become top-heavy. Hoe between all growing crops. Do not 
let weeds gain any size, and on no account allow them to seed. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early Houses .—Vines that have been cleared of fruit should 
have a good washing with the syringe or engine, an'd this should be 
repeated occasionally, as it is important that the foliage be kept in good 
condition for as long as possible. Enough water or tepid liquid mauure 
should be given to maintain a moist condition of the soil, and to prevent 
early resting encourage a moderate extension of th‘e laterals, with a 
temperature of GO 3 , ventilating freely on all favourable occasions. 
Housts in which the Grapes are ripe may be damped occasionally, as a 
moderate amount of atmospheric moisture will not interfere with the 
keepiug of the Grapes, providing the air is not close ; and with a 
temperature of G0° their requirements will be met as regards heat at 
night, and a few degrees higher in the daytime. When the sun is 
powerful it will be advisable to employ a light shading, or Hamburghs 
will lose colour and flavour. 
Houses of Vines with the Grapes Swelling .—To assist the fruit in 
swelling allow as much lateral extension as can be done without crowding 
the space with more foliage than can have exposure to light and air, 
which will maintain activity at the roots and cause nutriment to be taken 
up freely. Mulch the surface with short manure, which should be well 
watered, it not being possible to over-water Vmes in a healthy state 
when swelling-off their crops, provided the border is efficiently drained. 
Ventilate early in the day, increasing it with the sun heat, and keep 
through the day at 80° to 85°, closing at 80 3 , when the floors, borders. See., 
should be damped so as to secure a genial condition of the atmosphere ; 
and before nightfall sprinkle the floors with guano water or liquid 
manure, the ammonia from which is highly beneficial to the Vines, and 
the liability to attacks of red spider is considerably reduced. Artificial 
heat will only be necessary to prevent the temperature falling below 60° 
at night, and to insure 70° to 75° in the daytime in dull weather, making 
up for lost time when the sun shines. Outside borders that lie high and 
dry must be watered thoroughly in dry weather, having the surface 
mulched with short manure. Vines bearing Grapes that are beginning 
to colour require a thorough soaking of liquid manure in a tepid state 
both to inside and outside border, and mulch if necessary. Continue a 
good atmospheric moisture, as the Grapes swell considerably in ripening, 
and ventilate a little constantly. Close early with plenty of sun heat, and 
maintain moderate heat in the pipes so as to allow a circulation of warm 
air. If the Vines are carrying heavy crops keep the house rather cool at 
night, so as to rest the Vines, and thus given a little more time they will 
be able to finish off the crop satisfactorily, whereas if pushed they would 
in all probability colour very indifferently. The laterals may be allowed 
to extend, especially if the crop be heavy and there is space for their 
exposure to light. 
In succession houses keep the stopping and tying regularly performed. 
Thin Hamburghs as soon as set, and other Grapes as soon as it is seen 
which to remove by the properly fertil’sed berries taking the lead. 
Early Autumn and Late Houses .—Daily attention will he needed in 
stopping and tying, laying in laterals as long as there is space for the 
full development of foliage without crowding. Thin the berries freely, 
and endeavour to obtain handsome medium-sized hunches in preference to 
large and loose ones that seldom finish satisfactorily. The Vines from 
which the latest Black Hamburgh Grapes are obtained are now in flower, 
and will only need artificial aid so as to prevent the temperature falling 
below 55° at night and to secure 65° iu the daytime, a high artificial 
temperature at this season being apt to draw out the bunches, and Ham¬ 
burghs with long weak footstalks to the berries do not keep well, besides 
rendering them loose in appearance. The late varieties are now in flower, 
and as many of these do not set well pollen should be taken from Ham¬ 
burghs and applied to the shy setters. As a ru’e, the thin-skinned 
Grapes do not need so high a temperature as Muscats, for, although they 
do well enough under similar conditions of heat in the early stages of 
growth, but when ripening the heat required for finishing Muscats does not 
favour the colouring of the black varieties, as they require more time for 
making and maturing their growth ; hence to grow the finer late black 
Grapes they should have a house to themselves. Houses in which Grapes 
are stoning must be kept cool and regular in temperature at night, as the 
Vines in the best of condition must have time, aud the roots cannot do 
more than the process demands, wffiich is certainly an exhaustive one, it 
being better to allow the supply of nutriment to exceed the demand than 
want more than they receive, which is only too often apparent in the total 
cessation of lateral growth during the stoning process. The thinning of 
the main crop of Muscats will be completed, and the borders need mulching 
with good decayed manure, and copious supplies of tepid liquid manure or 
water are necessary. The outside borders should also be mulched, and in 
dry weather be given copious supplies of water or liquid manure as may 
be needed. 
Early pot Vines intended for fruiting next spring should be given more 
air, and the foliage syringed so as to keep it free from red spider, as upon 
this and a thoroughly solidified and matured growth depends the future 
success, and this can only be effected by the preservation in health of the 
main leaves. Feed liberally, so as to secure a well-developed growth. 
Melons. — Plants in flower must have plenty of air in the daytime, 
not syringing until they have set their fruit, after which it can be brought 
into use again. Fertilise the flowers daily until a sufficient number on a 
plant are set, and stop one joint beyond the fruit. When a sufficient 
number of fruits are set arid swelling earth up the plants, giving some good 
rich rather strong loam, and firm it well, having previously had it in the 
house to become warmed, and before earthing supply tepid water liberally. 
Four to six fruits will be sufficient to leave on a plant, apportioning them 
according to the size of the kind and the individual strength of the plaints. 
PI ants swelling their crops should have free supplies of tepid liquid manure, 
and a moist genial condition of the atmosphere secured by syringing in 
the early part of the afternoon or at closing time, and damp the house two 
or three times a day, or whenever the floors become dry. Keep the laterals 
regularly stopped, and if likely to become crowded thin them out 
gradually, so as not to give a check to the roots. Close as soon as safe iu 
the afternoon, or from 3 to 4 p.m., and if the temperature rise to 90° after¬ 
wards it w r ill be an advantage, keeping through the day at 80° to 85° or 
90°, admitting a little air earlv at 75° to 80°, and increasing it with the 
heat, not lower, but to keep it from becoming too high. Afford support to 
the fruit in good time. When the fruit gives indications of ripening cease 
syringing, but maintain a genial condition of the atmosphere by damping 
available surfaces occasionally, giving air freely, and maintaining a 
circulation of warm air constantly, lessening the supply of water to the 
roots. 
Continue the earthing-up of the hillocks in pits and frames as the roots 
protrude through the sides of the mound, repeating until the allotted 
space for that purpose is filled. See that the plants do not suffer for 
want of water, and do not give it so frequently as to sodden the soil—once 
or twice a week according to the weather will be sufficiently often ; and iu 
watering keep it from the collar of the plants so as to avoid canker. If 
this appear rub quicklime into the affected parts. The shoots of young 
plants which are now covering the surface of the beds should be thinned 
out to about four, taking two to the front and the other to the back, and 
taking out their points when a foot from the sides of the frame or pit. 
This will result in side or fruit-bearing shoots, and when the flowers o)i 
these expand impregnate when the pollen is dry, stopping one joint 
beyond the fruit. Three or four fruits to a plant are ample according to 
its strength, and when these are secured remove all the other flowers, 
male and female, and encourage the swelling by closing early, or from 
3.30 to 4 p.h., syringing or sprinkling overhead at the same time. If the 
temperature does not rise above 90° or 95° no harm will result, but if it do 
admit a little air for a short time, finally closing at 85°. Keep the laterals 
closely pinched or thinnel as may be necessary, it being important that 
the foliage bo not too crowded and that the main foliage be kept in good 
condition. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Cyclamens .—Where the plants for next autumn and winter-flowering 
cannot be accommodated in a house by themselves a hotbed should now 
be prepared in a cold frame. This is the best mode of bringing the plants 
from warm to cool treatment without receiving any check. The heat 
derived from a hotbed wi 1 assist them at first, and it will cool down 
gradually without a check to the plants, which is important if good well- 
grown specimens are to be produced. Young stock raised from seed at 
the commencement of the year, and still in pans in which they were 
pricked from the seed pots, may now be placed singly into 2-inch pots, 
and the hotbed referred to will be a suitable place in which to give them a 
good start. For a time after potting keep the frame closed, the plants 
moist and lightly shaded during bright sunshine. Good loam, a third of 
leaf mould, and a seventh of cow manure with sand may be employed for 
the compost. The leaf soil can be dispen-ed with when the plants are 
placed in their largest pots. 
Chrysanthemums .—These are now sturdy plants in cold frames, and i^ 
propagated and treated as previously directed will be ready for placing 
into 6-incli pots. They still need cold-frame protection, for the nights are 
cold. After potting keep the frame close until the roots are extending, 
when more air may be given, and the plants grown as cool and hardy as 
possible, or they will become weakly. The lights sliou’d be thrown off 
during the day when mild, and should be left open all night whenever it is 
pos-ible to do so. Those required for standards should be supplied with 
a small upright stake if they need it. The shoots of plants required for 
bushes should be pinched when necessary. Employ for potting good 
loam, manure, and sand. 
Tree Carnations .—The blooms of few plants are more eagerly sought 
after during the winter and spring than those of Carnations, and to have 
them in good condition they require every care and attention. If rooted 
and placed into 3-incli pots as directed the young plants will have made a 
good number of roots, and may now be placed into 5 or 6-inch pots. If 
not quite ready leave them a week or two longtr, but do not allow them 
to become root-bound, for if checked from this cause they may be ruined 
for the season. The pots in which they are placed should be drained 
