414 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 22, 1884. 
scorched. You have stated quite sufficient to account for their unsatisfactory 
condition. The pipes to which you applied sulphur have probably been 
Potter than you represent, although you were not there to test them. It has 
frequently been advised in this Journal that sulphur when needed to check 
the increase of red spider should be first applied to the return pipes, as being 
coo’er, and hence safer, than painting the flow's; yet you have painted the 
“ upper side ” of w’hat we presume are the flow pipes. If the pipes were not 
hotter than you state the temperature has been too high by sun heat before 
air was admitted. Then the “ strong stable manure ” has in all probability 
contributed to the evil of injured foliage and fruit. An excess of ammonia 
in the atmosphere when the growths of the Vines are young and tender 
is decidedly injurious, and the danger is aggravated by keeping the house too 
close, as we feel confident you have done both by night and by day. Under 
the circumstances when you found the manure so strong you ought certainly 
to have left the top ventilators of the house open all night, and admitted 
more air very early in the morning ; and further, if the days were bright, 
shading should have been resorted to when you found the air impregnated 
with sulphur and ammonia. Over and over again has the necessity for such 
precautions against injury been pointed out, still tbeir full importance do not 
appear to be appreciated by all readers until they find by experience that 
they cannot be safely ignored. You can only act in accordance w’ith the 
advice suggested of night ventilation as a safety valve, and very early 
admissions of air in the morning, and if this system fails then have recourse 
to light shading, regarding it as the lesser of tw r o evils, the greater being 
injured Vines. 
Various (Aurora). —The white flower you have sent is Iberis coriaceaj 
one of the best of the perennial Candytuft, and most attractive in gardens 
during the spring and early summer months. Young shoots just getting a 
little firm, but by no means hard, inserted in firm and very sandy soil under 
a tandlight, keeping them moist and shaded to prevent flagging, strike 
freely. Growths a little softer, as just cutting crisply, inserted in a pot, and 
covered with a bellglass, strike more quickly in a warm frame, where, how¬ 
ever, they must not remain a day after they have rooted and are starting 
into growth. The yellow flower is Cheiranthus Marshalli, and may be 
propagated in exactly the same w'ay. Cuttings rooted under handlights 
perhaps make the most sturdy plants, but everything depends on the skill 
of the propagator. As the Rhubarb is newlv planted by aU means water it 
regularly in dry weather, and it will probably commence growing freely as 
the season advances. The stalks should be pulled when wanted. Possibly 
your Rhubarb has been “cut” too closely. No stalks should be used until 
the plants are strong, and the more leaves you allow to develope and mature 
the stronger will be the crowns and the more abundant the produce. 
Vines Withering (Constant Subscriber). —So many examples of injured 
Vine leaves are sent to us that it is impossible for us to remember the exact 
nature of every case after it has been attended to. It appears we stated 
that the leaves you sent were scorched. In reply you say you “ know to 
the contrary.” There is thus a conflict of opinion, and the question arises 
not only as to whether your experience is greater than ours or not, but 
whether you or ourselves have the better facilities for forming a correct 
opinion. If you had subjected the leaves you sent us to close examination 
under a powerful microscope, you would have had plainly revealed to you 
their real condition, and we venture to say it would not have been “quite 
the contrary ” of what we stated. The small portion of lateral vou have 
now sent has no scorched leaves, nor is the specimen at all sufficient to 
enable ns to account for the withering of the shoot, while your letter 
contains no information to guide us to any conclusion on the subject. You 
say nothing about soil, temperature, watering, or atmospheric moisture— 
in fact you do not give the slightest hint regarding the treatment to which 
the Vines have been subjected. We do not give answers by guesswork, 
but found our replies on the evidence that is either supplied or is apparent 
in each case. You allude to the shoots being “poisoned,” and that cutting 
out the affected parts and applying lime is the antidote. We are glad the 
malady is under your control, and you cannot do better than apply the 
remedy you find efficacious. The nature of the “ poison ” we have absolutely 
no means of determining ; it may be a form of gangrene arising from too 
much nitrogenous matter in the soil, or from some error in ventilation, or 
an excess of root or atmospheric moisture. We are very willing to aid you 
if you will supply us with more data for doing so than your hurriedly 
written letter affords. 
Mildew on Vines (J. 0., Monmouth). —We regret your Vines are seriously 
infested with mildew, not only the bunches but the leaves with their foot¬ 
stalks being infested. However, yon have checked the parasite on the 
foliage, and in many places destroyed it by the syringing with Gishurst 
compound, but it is increasing rapidly on the berries. Mix some sulphur 
with the water, and give another good syringing, and if it does not 
adhere to the berries dust the bunches well with sulphur. It is often difficult 
to prevent the attacks of mildew in houses so crowded with plants as yours 
are. You cannot do better than maintain your present temperatures, and 
keep the atmosphere of the house drier if possible, never closing the top 
ventilators, and at the same time admitting more air very early or imme¬ 
diately the sun reaches the house, and do not close early in the afternoon 
with much moisture in the usual manner. A moist and close atmosphere 
favours the growth of the parasite, one dry and buoyant checking its 
increase ; yet sharp currents of air must be avoided, as you have evidence of 
their effects in the mildew being worst near the door of the house. Painting 
the return hot-water pipes with sulphur would have a tendency to check the 
increase of the destructive pest. 
Cucumbers and Melons Withering (IF. B. B). —The plants either do 
not receive sufficient support or the atmosphere of the house is too dry. the 
latter being perhaps the most probable cause of the unsatisfactory condition 
of the plants. Apply water copiously to the roots—that is, pour it into the 
soil so long as it passes away freely, and if the roots are plentiful give soot 
water twice a week. Also surface the bed with rough rich soil as often as 
fibres are seen protroding through it; syiinge the plants freely, yet carefully, 
twice a day ; have troughs on the pipes filled with water, damp the paths, 
walls, and bed frequently, admit air by the top ventilators only, and your 
plants will be bound to grow. When we say open the top lights only, it is 
of course on the assumption that by opening them early and increasing the 
ventilation in advance of the desired temperature that a maximum ot 8 o 
will not be exceeded. ODening the front ventilators of Melon and Cucumber 
houses needlessly is very common, and results in the drying of the air and 
causing so much moisture to evaporate from the leaves that they collapse. 
We think if you work on the lines indicated your plants will improve, unless, 
indeed, they are exhausted beyond recovery. 
Tomatoes Destroyed (D. B.). —Judging from the description given, 
your friend’s several losses of Tomato plants have been caused by wire- 
worms. If you had forwarded part of a damaged stem with insect enclosed 
it would have simplified our answer. A rather large specimen of wireworm 
we have before us measures about 1 inch in length, is one-quarter of an inch 
in circumference, of a rich 3 ’ellow colour, and has three pairs of legs disposed 
near the head. They are wonderfully destructive and very difficult of 
eradication. Your advice to clear out all the old soil and restart with fresh 
was the best that could be given under the circumstances, especially seeing 
how little soil Tomatoes really require. A small square ridge of soil, about 
18 inches wide, and the same or less in depth, enclosed with either a loose 
brick wall or turves, is ample to start with, occasional top-dressings being 
given as the plants gain in strength and are bearing freely. As your friend 
objects to remove the old soil, his best plan will be to carefully turn the 
heap, picking out all the wireworms that can be seen. In order also to 
encourage rapid growth of the Tomatoes, and in this manner escape entire 
destruction, it is advisable to mix some kind of artificial manure or guano 
with the compost at the rate recommended by the vendors. Failing this a 
sprinkling of soot and common salt would prove similarly beneficial. As the 
wireworms collect near the underground portion of the stems, these should 
not be buried deeply, in order that they may be frequently bared and the 
wireworms discovered and destroyed. Petroleum at the rate of 2 ozs. to a 
gallon of hot water, and kept well stirred with a syringe to prevent its col¬ 
lecting on the surface, if syringed when cool enough on to the lower portion 
of the stems and allowed to run down to the roots, will act as a deterrent, 
without, however, actually destroying the wireworms or injuring the roots. 
Pieces of Potatoes or Carrots attached to stakes and plunged into the soil 
will entrap some of them, and should be occasionally drawn out and 
examined. Soil that is known to contain grubs should be scorched before 
using ; this increases its fertility and destroys all pests. 
Names of Plants (J. II., Sussex). —The Banksian Rose, Rosa Banksise. 
( Constant Header).—!, Kerria japonica flore-pleno ; 2, Stachys lanata ; 
3, Staphylea colchica ; 4, Muscari moschatum. ( Subscriber ).—1, a variety of 
Ixia, but it was loo much withered to be recognisable ; 2, Spirma prunifolia ; 
3, Cephalotaxus drupacea ; 4, C. Fortune!; the green flower is Ixia viridiflora, 
the other is Ixia c- ateroides. (A. D. H. C.). —1, insufficient for determina¬ 
tion ; 2, Acorus Calamus ; 3, Rhododendron cinnabarinum. (W. M.). —Carex 
pendula. (II., Constant Reader). —2, Saxifraga granulata flore-pleno ; 4, 
Lastrea Filix-maJ cristata ; 5, Adiantum pedatum; the others were in¬ 
sufficient. 
COYENT GARDEN MARKET.— May 21st. 
OOR market still heavily supplied, with business exceedingly quiet. 
Prices bearing 
downwards, Cucumbers alone maintaining former values. 
FRUIT. 
s. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Apples. 
\ sieve 
1 
6 
to 5 
0 
Oranges. 
.. 100 
6 
0 to 10 
0 
Chestnuts 
bushel 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Reaches . 
per doz. 
6 
0 
12 
O 
Figs . 
dozen 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Pears, kitchen 
dozen 
1 
0 
1 
e 
Filberts. 
.. ft. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
„ dessert 
dozen 
1 
0 
5 
0 
Cobs . 
per ft. 
1 
S 
1 
6 
Pine Apples English., ft. 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Grapes. 
.. ft. 
2 
0 
5 
0 
Strawberries.. 
.. ft. 
2 
0 
6 
0 
Lemon .. .. 
,. case 
15 
0 
21 
0 
St. Michael Pines 
. .each 
2 
0 
6 
0 
VEGETABLES 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Artichokes 
. dozen 
2 
0 
to 4 
0 
Mushrooms .. . 
. punnet 
0 
9 
to 1 
6 
Beans, Kidney 
ft. 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Mustard and Cress 
punnet 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Beet, Red .. . 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Onions. 
bushel 
2 
6 
3 
0 
Broccoli. 
. bundle 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Parsley .. dozen bunches 
2 
0 
3 
O 
Brussels Sprouts . 
. ) sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Parsnips. 
. dozen 
1 
0 
2 
O 
Cabbage . 
. dozen 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Potatoes. 
. cwt. 
4 
0 
5 
0 
Capsicums .. . 
100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
„ Kidney . 
. cwt. 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Carrots. 
. bnnch 
0 
S 
0 
4 
„ New .. . 
. .. ft. 
0 
2 
0 
4 
Cauliflowers .. . 
. dozen 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Rhubarb. 
. bundle 
0 
4 
0 
8 
Celery . 
. bundle 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Salsafy. 
. bundle 
1 
0 
0 
6 
Coleworts doz. 
bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Scorzonera 
bundle 
1 
6 
0 
6 
Cucumbers .. . 
. each 
0 
8 
0 
6 
Shallots. 
..lb. 
0 
3 
0 
6 
Endive. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Spinach. 
bushel 
2 
6 
3 
6 
Herbs .. .. 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Tomatoes 
l 
6 
0 
O 
Leeks 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Turnips. 
bunch 
0 
S 
e 
O 
Lettuce .. .. 
1 
0 
1 
6 
„ New.. . 
bunch 
1 
0 
0 
9 
THE SHROPSHIRE BREED OF SHEEP. 
( Continued from page 390.) 
A n important period in the history of the Shropshire breed must, 
now be referred to, and for a time the higher-bred and shorter- 
woolled stock seem to have carried everj'thing before them for a 
considerable number of years, but more particularly the sheep bred 
at Latimer, the property of the late Lord Chesham. At the Bedford 
