May 29, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . 
410 
frost, and to insure uniform moisture. If the soil be moist at potting 
time only a gentle watering will be necessary to settle the soil about 
the roots, and plunged as indicated above no water will be needed 
until the plants commence growth. The lights should only be used to 
throw off heavy rains, then tilting them, and in frosty weather they 
may be placed on and kept close with a covering over them, whilst in 
mild weather the lights can be drawn off. 
When the plants commence growth remove the surfacing of 
cocoa-nut fibre refuse, and keep on the lights, but with plenty of air 
whenever the air is mild. All the protection needed is to keep clear of 
frost. One of the essentials is that they have plenty of light and air, 
so as to keep the foliage leathery and the flower stems sturdy. If it 
be desired to accelerate the blooming, a portion of the plants may be 
removed and placed on shelves near the glass in a greenhouse where 
the temperature does not exceed 50° in the daytime from fire heat, 
and 5 to 10° less at night. Water will need to be given as required, 
never allowing the plants to want for it; and, on the other hand, it 
must not be given while the soil is wet. When in free growth water 
with weak liquid manure or soot water, which will greatly invigorate 
the plants, giving colour to the foliage and flowers. The plants in the 
frame will flower in April or early May, and can be removed to the 
sitting-room window or greenhouse ; and along with others of a 
similar character, as Auriculas, &c , are charming, the smaller plants 
being useful for many purposes to which the larger ones cannot be 
applied. After flowering shift into larger pots, merely loosening the 
sides of the ball, but not injuring the roots, and, removing any loose 
soil and the drainage, transfer to others 2 inches larger in diameter, 
and stand on ashes in a cold frame on a north border, where they 
should be freely ventilated. To insure good crowns the plants must 
be kept cool and shady ; but if the frame must stand in a posiiion 
exposed to the sun it should be shaded with tiffany or some other 
material that will break the force of the sun’s rays. Weak liquid 
manure may be given occasionally, and the plants will make a sturdy 
leaf-growth. Allowing the plants to rest after flowering, keeping dry, 
and standing anywhere but in a moist shady place, results in°poor 
foliage, small crowns, and very poor flowers in spring. 
In the autumn the plants must not be disturbed, but remain as 
they are for flowering, and they will bloom finely, as they will have 
the roots at the sides of the pot, which they evidently like ; and after 
flowering again they need not be shifted, keeping them in the same 
pots two years, after which they should be repotted, as excessive 
crowding of the crowns results in a poor display of bloom. 
The small crowns that were potted rather thickly may be divided 
the following autumn, potting the largest six in 6 inch pots, the 
others singly in 3-inch, by which means a stock of plants will be 
maintained in the most serviceable sizes, and the main plants not 
disturbed until after the second year. 
There are numbers of varieties, but many are u washy ” in colour. 
Some of the best are grandiflora alba, lilacina, lilacina raarginata, 
rosea alba, violacea lacinata, Ruby, Magenta Queen, Purple Queen, 
rosea striata, elarkimflora, vincaeflora, and the type P. Sieboldi (cor- 
tusoides amoena). For cutting purposes intermedia, which is smaller 
than the type and magenta in colour, and intermedia alba are very 
pretty. These are valuable for decorative purposes and cutting.— 
G. Abbey. 
WHAT IS AN AMATEUR? 
This is a question that has often been before the readers of the 
horticultural journals, and the present time seems to be a fitting oppor¬ 
tunity for discussing it on its merits. The proposals placed before the 
readers of the Journal by Mr. J. E. Waiting ought to receive some con¬ 
sideration. Some people seem to think that the prize lists issued by the 
National Auricula and Carnation Societies are drawn up from a selfish 
point of view. I do not think so. I believe they are made out by the 
Committee to meet circumstances as nearly as possible. The majority 
of the fanciers are Iona fide amateurs. The champion Auricula grower 
(Mr. Horner) is an amateur in the true sense ; but the great difficulty 
appears to be—and I think this is the grievance—to keep the larger 
growers from competing in those classes reserved for small growers. 
The rules of the Society provide for this, but are they adhered to ? I 
heard it several times remarked at the exhibitions of the Carnation 
Society at South Kensington and Slough, that the flowers in the first- 
prize stands of the classes that were reserved for the small growers were 
not grown by the exhibitors of them, but were supplied by one of the 
larger growers. Is this correct? If such reports as these could be 
explained I am certain the Society would not lose support. It would 
remove the “ slurs ” that are made on them. I say, Let the best flowers 
win when staged by the real growers of them, if the same exhibitor 
take the prizes at each succeeding show, more to his credit. Do not make 
classes to keep out the best growers and so encourage bad cultivation. 
Let the large growers keep to themselves, and if the smaller growers 
feel inclined to enter the lists against them let them do so and leave the 
rest to exhibitors’ honour.— Onwards. 
prizes are used they should be set forth as clearly as possible. A few 
years ago we found it necessary to put our exhibitors at the Ealing Show 
into sections, so as to equalise the competitions as far as possible. We 
made open classes, in which the gardeners having one, two, or more men 
under them and the small florisls could compete together. The gardeners 
of small places were put into a division as single-handed gardener - , 
meaning thereby one who has no constant assistance, though he may 
have occasional help. The amateurs were put into a division, the term 
“amateur” being defined as one who does not constantly employ a 
gardener, but who has occasional help in his garden. Then we have a 
fourth division, in which cottage and allotment gardeners compete 
together. We find this arrangement to work uncommonly well on the 
whole, and 1 commend it to the attention of managers of flower shows. 
I send you the foregoing remarks as a contribution to a discussion 
now going on in your columns.— K. Dean, Hon. Sec. Ealing , Acton, 
and Hanwell Horticultural Society. 
EXTRA EARLY MILAN TURNIP. 
This is a new introduction highly recommended by Messrs. Yelteh, 
and having, moreover, the impress of excellence in the reliable form of a 
first-class certificate from the Royal Horticultural Society. Two seasons’ 
trial had placed Early Munich indisputably at the head of all the early 
Turnips of which I could get seed. The best test, therefore, of Extra 
Early Milan was to sow it alongside of Early Munich. I have done so, 
and find it quite a week earlier than Early Munich, and flesh of excel- 
lei.t quality, white, sweet, crisp, and tender. At present there is no 
indication of premature bolting to seed, and I have every reason t> 
regard it as a decided acquisition, superior to all other early varieties, 
and highly worthy of general culture. 
Not only for its intrinsic merit do I call particular attention to this 
new Turnip, but also because advice was recently given to readers of the 
Journal to sow e : ther it or Early Munich on the same day to obtain a 
supply of roots twelve days before other sorts are ready. Now, it is 
certain that Early Munich is surpassed for fir,-t place, and it may prove 
a bad second if, as Messrs. Yeiteh assert, Early Milan retains its good 
qualities and remains a loDg time fit for use, wh le Eaily Munich soon gets 
hot and bitter. The best soits to follow Early Milan, therefore, are 
Early Red American Strap-leaf and Early Strap-leaf White Stone, 
followed by Snowball, Yeitch’s Red Globe, and Chirk Castle.— EDWARD' 
Luckhurst. 
CULTURE OF THE AMARYLLIS. 
It is quite certain that the Amaryllis will become a popular plant. 
Those who have not been able to visit the nurseries of Messrs. Veitch- 
at Chelsea, or of Mr. B. S. Williams at Holloway, whilst the 
Amaryllis season is at its height can form no conception of the 
effect produced by these gorgeous plants. The varieties that have 
been raised at both establishments during late years are far in 
advance of those we were familiar with a few years back. The only 
deterrent fact to many would-be growers is the high price of the- 
bulbs, which is owing to the slow increase of the majority, con¬ 
sequently the price will generally' be high unless a variety may be 
perpetuated by seed in quantity. The seedlings as a rule bloom the 
third year if they have received generous culture. Those who are not 
in a position to procure a collection of the Amaryllis should try to 
have a few of the best of each type, and endeavour to raise seedlings. 
The culture of the Amaryllis is not difficult, but they require careful 
attention. Some gardeners a few years back (and-there may be some 
now) maintained that to have the Amaryllis in good condition that 
the bulbs ought not to be dried off, but have moisture sufficient to 
keep the foliage green. These views are quite exploded, unless they 
can produce better examples of culture than those grown by the 
above-mentioned firms. 
To produce good Amaryllises careful attention is required after 
blooming. The best position for them whilst making their growth is 
a span-roof house, with a bed in the centre for holding tan, and a 
walk round, or a bed on each side with a walk in the centre. The- 
beds should be well filled with tan to keep the bulbs well up to the 
light ; if the tan is low down in the pit the plants do not receive 
sufficient air. If it is new tan some old worn-out tan should be mixed 
with it to prevent violent heating, as a gentle bottom heat is what 
they require. Blinds should be provided to guard against bright 
sunshine. 
Potting the Bulls —The first batch should be potted early' in 
February. The soil best adapted for the Amaryllis is six parts fibry 
loam, one part prepared horse manure, with a half part of peat, with 
sufficient sand and pounded charcoal to keep the soil open. The size 
of pots used should be according to the size of the bulbs. They 
should also be well drained, the old soil being removed, and pot very 
firmly. They should then be plunged in the tan. 
Watering .—No water should be applied to the soil until the bulbs 
have started into growth, and then it must be applied carefully. It 
must be remembered that when a plant is plunged, although the soil 
may look dry' on the surface it may not be so underneath. If the 
house is kept well damped they will not dry very much. As the 
It is of the utmost importance that when definitions in schedules of 
