May 29, 1884. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
431 
roots, especially of Cattleyas, attacked by grubs. A gall-like protuberance 
is fust formed and the root grows round it. Mr. Maclachlan observed that 
it was the larva of a hymenopterous insect that should be parasitic, be¬ 
longing to the Enrytonidse ; and that another, Isosoma Hordei, was regarded 
as destroying Wheat in America. He was disposed to think that it really 
attacked some other insect which was the real destroyer of the Orchid, but 
that such insect had not yet been found. He said that Mr. Westwood was 
inclined to think the reverse, and that these genera are not really parasitic, 
like others of the same family. 
Double Daffodils .—Professor M. Foster moved that a Sub-Committee 
should be formed, consisting of Dr. Masters, Mr. Baker, the Hon. and Rev. 
Boscawen, Mr. W. Dod, Mr. P. Barr, and Professor Foster, with power to add 
to their number, to report on the influences of soil and situation and other 
conditions causing changes from single to double Daffodils, and vice versa , 
and that the Council be requested to give such facilities in the Chiswick 
Gardens as may be desirable to enable the Sub-Committee to carry out the 
necessary investigations. 
Hybrid Sarracenias .—The Rev. G-. Henslow exhibited drawings of the 
epidermal tissues of the pitchers of some hybrids raised by Mr. Williams 
between S. purpurea and flava, and vice versa, and between S. purpurea and 
Drummondii. In the former the influence of flava was seen in the absence 
of a special secretive surface characteristic of purpurea, but the converse 
influence in the absence of honey glands on the lid. In the hybrid between 
purpurea and Drummondii the glands on the lid were present, characteristic 
of Drummondii, Avhile a special secretive surface also existed, characteristic 
of purpurea. 
Desmids and Diatoms. —Mr. Henslow described an extraordinary growth 
of these Algae, unmixed with any other, which had occurred in his private 
swimming bath, the temperature of which was kept at 80°, and the water 
constantly flowing. Yolvox was absent, as well as filamentous forms. 
Corrugated Garden Engine. — I have seen an advertisement of a 
garden engine with the tank made of corrugated iron. Can any of your 
numerous readers say how it answers, also where it is to be procured ? as 
I cannot now find the advertisement.— Crux. 
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HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Watering .—Most of the fruit is set and swelling slowly. The weather 
now is apparently “ set fair,” with hot sunny days, and soil so dry that 
unless watering be thorough and regular there is considerable risk of an 
undue quantity of fruit turning yellow and falling prematurely. By far 
the best method is to water at once, pouring on enough to reach the 
whole of the soil about the roots, and to follow the watering with a thick 
mulching of loose litter, so as to check evaporation, and to prevent the 
hot dry air coming in contact with the soil. Such a process is much 
better than half a dozen mere surface wettings without mulching, most 
of which evaporates in an hour or two of bright sunshine. So important 
do we consider this matter, that most of our labourers have been taken 
from other work to attend to it. To Strawberries a thick layer of long 
grass is applied after this watering, for the berries are swelling fast, and 
must not be left longer without a covering on the soil to keep it from 
being dashed upon the fruit by the heavy downpour for which we are 
longing so earnestly. We are, however, well provided for a time of 
drought with a pond on a hill, whence the water comes through pipes 
softened and warmed by full exposure to sun and air, and a cesspool 
containing several thousand gallons of house sewage, to which liberal 
additions come daily from the household. We mention this in view 
of showing those who are at a loss for water at this critical time what 
to do by way of provision for the future. Not every garden can be 
supplied by a pond above it, but there should be no country estab¬ 
lishment without its cesspool and some provision of water. If there 
are no springs there is certainly the rainfall on buildings and roads, 
and the land drainage, all capable of accumulation in one or more 
positions accessible from the fruit garden. Now is the time to consider 
this matter, and to come to a decision about remedial measures, while 
the want of water and the baneful effect of drought upon the fruit crop 
are clearly before us. 
Pruning .—Thinning and nipping the new growth of Plums, Pears, 
and Apples, and disbudding Peach and Nectarine trees, is being done. 
We are glad to find but little blistered foliage, notwithstanding the 
recent prevalence of cold north-east winds. Thinning of superabundant 
lateral growth, especially upon Pears, should always be done when 
the growth is young, both to avoid exhaustion of the tree and to 
admit light and air freely among the spurs. Young trees are now 
growing freely, and demand frequent attention in watering, pruning, 
and training. The forms to which close pruning is applied are cordons, 
palmette verriers, pyramids, and dwarf bushes, all which now in course 
of training should have the tips nipped off the leading branches and 
stem at 15, 18, or 20 inches, according to the habit of growth, which 
will afford time for the lateral as well as leading buds to become plump 
and ready for a forward midsummer growth. Stop, also, and thin spur 
growths, and do all necessary training as the growth becomes long 
enough. Promptitude in this matter is important, many a valuable 
young branch being broken by high winds for want of timely fastening. 
Standards and bushes which are not to be kept close pruned must be 
kept free from crowded growths in the centre, and be examined occa¬ 
sionally for caterpillars, which frequently prove destructive to young 
growth and foliage. Never rest satisfied with a sluggish or weakly 
growth in young trees. The reason cannot be difficult to ascertain, for 
if healthy trees planted in sound well-drained soil fail to make a free 
strong growth, we may be sure drought or blight is the cause. We may 
add, however, that looseness of the soil about the roots is always a source 
of mischief, as also is an undue settling down of the soil, leaving a newly 
planted tree suspended by its supports with the roots half bare. Newly 
planted dwarf-trained Peaches and Nectarines should be kept growing 
freely. “ The stronger the better,” is our motto for such trees, and if 
the young leading shoots put forth laterals, select enough of the sides 
for furnishing the wall, and tie them in. We have often had such 
laterals well furnished with fruit buds. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —Early - forced Trees .—Trees forced 
so as to afford full crops of fruit in May and onwards require careful 
management to insure their bearing good crops, and to keep them in 
health for a number of years ; as, having to make their growth in the 
winter months and to rest during the latter part of the summer, the chief 
object is to prevent the wood becoming over-ripe, to which end it is 
necessary to keep the house as cool as possible after the fruit is gathered 
by ventilating to the fullest extent and exposing the trees in mild 
showery weather by removing the roof lights, which will greatly benefit 
the foliage, doing much to prevent premature ripening of the growth 
and cleansing it of insect pests. Syringe the trees once or twice a day 
directly the fruit is cleared off, and well water inside borders, as tho trees 
have yet to mature the buds. As the trees are cleared, all shoots that 
have carried fruit, and not being extensions, should be removed to make 
room for the full exposure to light and air of the shoots for next year’s 
bearing, and the full exposure of the foliage to the influence of water 
through the syringe so as to subdue red spider, which must not under 
any circumstances be allowed to get ahead. Gross laterals should be 
stopped; but a moderate extension of these, providing they do not inter¬ 
fere with the light, is advisable from its tendency to retard the ripening 
of the young wood and foliage. 
Second House .—Trees started at the new year will he advanced for 
ripening, and syringing the trees must cease. A good moisture, however, 
must be maintained by keeping the floors and borders damped morning 
and afternoon, and there must not be any deficiency of moisture in the 
soil at the roots, or the foliage will suffer. Any fruit of the midseason 
varieties will not be ripe for a few days, hence that not well placed for 
ripening should be turned up to the light. Fire heat will only be needed 
in cold wet weather to keep the temperature from falling below 60° at 
night, and 70° to 75° in the daytime. Air should be given freely and a 
little constantly at the upper part of the house. It should, however, be 
borne in mind that suddenly lowering the temperature is unfavourable 
to flavour, hence a genial heat through the night and on dull days, with 
free ventilation, favours the swelling and finishing of the fruit. 
Succession Houses .—Tying in the young shoots intended for carrying 
next year’s crop and extension growth must have attention. The shoots 
that are growing too luxuriantly may be pinched, especially the shoots 
for next year’s bearing, when they have grown to a length of II inches ; 
but it is well not to pinch the shoots in too much, as it tends to the pro¬ 
duction of a quantity of spray, which is difficult to restraiu and is not 
favourable to the ripening of the wood. We only pinch extensions that 
have reached the extremity of the trellis, and strong shoots, so as to form 
an equal distribution of growth throughout the trees as possible. Stop 
laterals at the first joint, and allow extension as space admits. Syringe 
twice daily and water the inside borders thoroughly once a week, the 
drainage being good, and mulch the surface of the borders both inside 
and out with short manure. Young trees in course of formation should 
be properly disbudded, and the shoots retained should be allowed to 
extend their full length, provided they are evenly balanced. The prin¬ 
cipal shoots ought to be 12 to 15 inches distance apart, and the shoots on 
branches for bearing 15 to 18 inches apart ; and the soil being stiff the 
trees will make stout short-jointed wood and afford fruit of the largest 
size and finest quality. Admit air early, and close early with plenty of 
moisture in the house. Houses in which the fruit is stoning should be 
kept at an equable temperature of 60° to 65° at night and 70° to 75° by 
day, with a free circulation of air ; but where it is not wished to 
accelerate the fruit it is better to allow 5° less at night and keep at C5° 
on cold dull days, making up for lost time by closing early after the 
stoning is completed. Keep the foliage free from insects, fumigating for 
aphides, and red spider and thrips never can make headway if the 
syringing be properly attended to. Scale should be destroyed by the 
application of an insecticide. 
Strawberries in Pots. —For late forcing there certainly are not 
varieties equal to President, James Veitch, Mr. Radclyffe, Sir Charles 
Napier, Dr. Hogg, and Cockscomb. These properly forwarded give very 
handsome fruit of excellent quality. To grow them well they need to be 
brought forward carefully in a cool house, for in a forcing house and close 
to the glass the fruit is liable to be scalded, but in a late Peach house, or 
failing this, a cold pit will answer well, the plants being a good distance 
from the glass, and where they can have abundance of air at all times. 
In such a position the flower stalks will be short and strong, and the 
whole plant have a sturdy growth—such only giving large fruit. Thin 
the fruit to six or eight on a plant, and feed liberally with liquid manure, 
