498 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June 19, 1884, 
but we do not know of one exactly answering to the description of a “ Por¬ 
tugal Laurel with light green foliage it may, however, be Euonymus lati- 
folius. If any of our south-coast readers can give any further information 
on the point they may feel to be needed we shall be glad to hear from them. 
Grubs in Garden (,¥. M., Co. Doivn).— There appears to be a plague of 
maggots this year, yours being the third letter of inquiry on the subject this 
week. We can only refer you to our replies to two other correspondents and 
recommend you to try the remedies suggested. We believe petroleum as 
burned in lamps will be effective, if you can ascertain by experiment the 
quantity to use with safety. It mixes better in water in which a little soap 
and soda have been dissolved than in pure water. We shall be glad if experi¬ 
ments can be made both with petroleum, hellebore tea, and lime water in 
eradicating grubs, and if mixtures can be prepared that will accomplish this 
and yet not injure plants the particulars will be very acceptable. 
Seedling Fuchsias {J. B., Ruabon).— The flowers were unfortunately 
much crushed in transit, so much so that the sepals of ail the expanded 
flowers were bent quite back to the tubes, so that we are unable to distinguish 
clearly which variety you allude to as the “ reflexed ” one. The question, 
however, is not material. The flower with the short tube has unusually rich 
sepals, bright coral red, and the corolla, much crushed, seems to possess 
substance. This we think the most meritorious, and likely to be effective 
for decorative purposes. The other with long tubes is also attractive, and if 
the plant is a strong grower would be admirably adapted for training to a 
roof. Although both the varieties are worthy of preservation, we doubt if 
they would be regarded of any commercial value by a florist, as there are so 
many varieties with better formed flowers in cultivation ; still, the apparent 
freedom of growth and floriferousness must render them useful for green¬ 
house and conservatory decoration. 
Grubs in Mushroom Bed (C. F. T). —We are not acquainted with the 
particular grub which you describe, nor is Mr. Barter, whom we have con¬ 
sulted ; but for various kinds of insects he finds either flowers of sulphur or 
lime sparingly shaken over the surface of the beds a good preventive, or even 
water slightly salted—say, by mixing 1 to 2 ozs. of salt in a gallon. The 
only matter in which we are able to adjudge you “ wrong ” is in.not detecting 
the enemy sooner, and preventing the attack becoming so serious. We are 
glad your outdoor beds are bearing so splendidly. Try the effect of the 
salt first, as this will not render the Mushrooms that may be on the bed 
distasteful. 
Destroying Weeds on Walks (J. C., Cheshire ).—A short time ago 
several methods were described in the Journal of destroying weeds on walks. 
Salt is only objectionable by making some walks too moist. In the case of 
dry walks and positions this objection vanishes, and applied in dry weather 
salt is effective. Arsenical solutions will kill weeds. Boil 1 lb. of powdered 
arsenic and 2 lbs. of crushed soda, then dilute with seven gallons of water. 
Add one part of common vitriol to thirty parts of water, mix and apply. 
Mix an ounce of crude carbolic acid to each gallon of water prepared, and 
with this water the gravel. Petroleum will kill weeds ; the quantity to use 
you can easily ascertain by experiment. Whatever is used, Box or G-rass 
edgings must be protected. 
Melons Cankered and Leaves Scorched ( G . S.). —When the scorching 
of the foliage accompanies the cankering of the stems we always have a 
suspicion that the soil in which the plants are growing is too wet on the 
surface and too dry below. Ascertain if this is not so in your case, and if 
the soil excavated from the bottom of the bed is in the slightest degree dry 
apply water repeatedly until it is moist. In watering Melons, though we 
give copious supplies, we never apply it within an inch of the stems, and 
have no canker. A mixture of lime and powdered charcoal is a good 
and safe application, but two handfuls at a time is a needlessly large appli¬ 
cation. A correspondent, Mr. Waiting, has found powdered alum efficacious, 
but we have not had an opportunity of testing the merits of this. You 
might try it, and let us know if it answers better than the lime and charcoal. 
The Pern is Davallia bullata. 
Soil for Vine Border {Inquirer). —Of the two samples sent No. 2 is in our 
opinion by far the best both for Vines, Cucumbers, Melons, and plants gene¬ 
rally that require good loam. No. 1 contains practically no humus, and on 
the decay of the fibre would run together like a lot of silt. No. 2 would also 
we think run too closely together in a border. Vines would grow well in it 
for a few years, but afterwards less satisfactorily if no measures were adopted 
to encourage surface roots, and nothing added to maintain the porosity of the 
soil. We should add wood ashes, bones, and lime rubbish with it for a per¬ 
manent border, and decayed manure or leaf soil for plants in pots and Cucum¬ 
bers. It will form the basis of a very good border and for general potting 
purposes. 
Grubs in Soil (G. L.). —If the grubs are the maggots of the daddy long- 
legs you will find them extremely difficult to destroy. As grubs attack 
Lettuce and Cabbage plants recently planted it is advisable to scrape the 
soil from the plants and place a mixture of soot and lime round them, which 
will act as a useful barrier against the attacks of the depredators. Watering 
with a solution of petroleum at the strength of half a wineglassful of the 
oil to a gallon of water may also check the grub ravages, and act as a 
manure. A solution of hellebore may also be of service, beating 2 ozs. of 
hellebore powder into a paste with boiling water, then adding a gallon of 
cold water for use. You might try these suggested remedies and favour us 
with the results. Gas lime dug into the ground in the autumn would be 
beneficial. 
Grubs in Eucharis Bulbs (./. We are quite unable to keep in mind 
the particulars of former letters pertaining to subjects which have been 
replied to; and when further information is needed the circumstances 
pertaining to the first inquiry should be recapitulated. If mites are in 
Eucharis bulbs it will be difficult if not impossible to destroy them without 
injuring the bulbs. Immersing in clear lime water is one of the safest and 
best of remedies; then place in small well-drained pots, using turfy loam 
and an admixture of crushed charcoal, surrounding the bulbs with a little 
powdered charcoal, and if convenient plunge the pots in bed where they 
can have bottom heat of 80° to 85°, giving water sparingly until roots are 
working freely and fresh leaves are produced, when more copious supplies 
will be necessary. 
Exhibiting Roses (A. A.). —The blooms should be exhibited in boxes, the 
stems of the blooms being placed in tubes filled with water, the tubes being 
embedded in moss, the smoothest and freshest of which should form |an 
emerald surface to display the blooms to the gi'eatest advantage. Each 
bloom should be cut with as much foliage attached to the stem as possible, 
but no leaves must be added. If the blooms are cut on the morning of the 
show they should be secured early and before the dew has evaporated from 
their petals. The moss in the box must be moist, and the blooms should be 
arranged so as to stand a few inches above it. Many new beginners spoil 
their boxes by pressing the blooms close down on the moss. The boxes 
should have lids, which, especially on sunny mornings, must be kept over the 
blooms until the last possible moment before the judges enter the show. The 
subject will be referred to again, and further information given that may be 
of service to you. 
Thrips on Vines (C. J.). —Having been a grower of Grapes for forty 
years you must consider yourself fortunace in not having previously become 
acquainted with the insects now attacking the foliage—thrips. The attack 
is, moreover, we are sorry to observe, rather a serious one, and if the insects 
are not checked they will seriously injure the Vines. Possibly you may 
have had Azaleas in the house, and with these introduced the pest; how¬ 
ever, be this as it may, the insect must be extirpated. Eumigations with 
tobacco or tobacco paper will destroy thrips, the house being moderately 
filled with smoke on two or three consecutive mild evenings when the foliage 
is dry, repeating the process in ten days, as other insects will have then 
hatched from the eggs, that are numerous. Syringing with an insecticide 
will not be effectual, inasmuch as so many of the insects are on the uppsr 
surfaces of the leaves. If you have not many Vines we should have the 
leaves sponged with either nicotine soap, Gishurst compound, or softsoap 
and tobacco water, whichever may be at hand. Two ounces of softsoap 
dissolved in a gallon of water, and from half a pint to a pint of tobacco 
water added, according to strength, will answer if you cannot readily 
procure the prepared insecticides. A careful handy person may dress 
hundreds of leaves during two or three hours before breakfast, and kill 
thousands of insects. Tobacco smoke in moderate volume will not injure 
Grapes after they are stoned and up to the colouring period. Whichever 
method you adopt for eradicating the thrips, we advise you to act promptly. 
Grapes Scalded (.4 Lady Gardener). —The injury is chiefly caused by 
extreme evaporation from the berries, and is the most prevalent when vineries 
are kept closed too long in the morning, and the sashes then thrown open 
so widely as to reduce the temperature of the house. Very early and gradu¬ 
ally increasing ventilation in advance of the increasing temperature of the 
vinery is the best preventive, and there should also be sufficient foliage on 
the Vines to shade the fruit from the direct rays of the sun ; failing this 
slight shade such as sprinkling whitewash on the glass is occasionally advis¬ 
able. Early ventilation means opening the top lights slightly before the sun 
has been shining on the house half an hour. This often occurs by or before 
six o’clock in the morning, while many vineries are not opened until seven or 
eight o’clock, especially on Sundays. This delay is dangerous, and has often 
proved disastrous. The berries sent indicate that the Vines are healthy. 
Violent syringings will so far help to keep in check red spider that it will 
not do serious injury. Sulphur will check it, and may be mixed with water 
and applied with a syringe after a thorough washing with pure water. The 
leaf you sent arrived in a very shrivelled state ; it appeared to be as much 
injured by scorching as by insects. If you have only a few Vines and insects 
are on the upper surface of the foliage you might have the leaves sponged 
with a solution of softsoap and tobacco water. 
Market Measures (G . P.). —In Covent Garden a half sieve contains 
three and a half imperial gallons. It averages 12| inches in diameter and 
6 inches in depth. A sieve contains seven imperial gallons. Diameter 
15 inches, depth 8 inches. A sieve of Peas is equal to one bushel; a sieve of 
Currants twenty quarts. A bushel sieve ten and a half imperial gallons. 
Diameter at top 17| inches, at bottom 17 inches ; depth 11^ inches. A bushel 
basket ought, when heaped, to contain an imperial bushel. Diameter at 
bottom 10 inches, at top 14^ inches ; depth 17 inches. Walnuts, Nuts, Apples, 
and Potatoes are sold by this measure. A bushel of the last-named cleansed 
weighs 56 lbs., but 4 lbs. additional are allowed if they are not washed. 
A pottle is a long tapering basket that holds rather over a pint and a half. 
A pottle of Strawberries should hold half a gallon, but never holds more 
than one quart. A pottle of Mushrooms should weigh 1 lb. A hand applies 
to a bunch of Radishes, which contains from twelve to thirty or more accord¬ 
ing to the season. A bundle varies according to the supply. Seakale 12 to 
18 heads ; Rhubarb 20 to 30 stems, according to size; and of Asparagus 
from 100 to 125 heads. There is no book or paper published that gives the 
information you lequire. The published market prices are those paid by the 
buyers to the sellers of the produce, and are average prices for average goods. 
Articles of superior quality occasionally realise more than is indicated, while 
inferior produce fails to obtain the prices as quoted in the market returns. 
Plum Leaves Silvery (V. L. C.). —We have many times, and in different 
places, observed the foliage of Plum trees assume a silvery appearance, and 
the branches afterwards die. We have also noticed that the occurrence has 
been most frequent when bright and dry days have followed a term of wet 
and dull weather. We have further found that the trees which have suffered 
the most were those with apparently fine healthy foliage, and that the 
leaves after the attack were harsh and dry like smooth paper. As we could 
not find any trace of insects and mildew to account for the condition of the 
leaves we attributed the cause of injury to sudden and extreme transpiration 
—a drying-up of the sap, and the consequent separation of the cuticle from 
the substance of the leaf, and the cuticle being transparent, must necessarily 
when raised impart to the leaf a silvery appearance. This is in substance 
what we have more than once stated ; but with the object of gaining further 
information we submitted some leaves to Mr. Worthington G. Smith, who i^. 
an adept in detecting under the microscope, and delineating things hidden 
from ordinary observers. His reply was in accordance with our own views 
on the subject. He found the cuticle raised from the leaves and much torn, 
only adhering to the veins. He attributes this to the substance of the leaf 
shrinking or drying up, which seems to show that at one period of growth 
there was a too rapid formation of leaves, and then the growth ceased, and 
the too much distended material shrunk back and tore itself away from the 
cuticle. Eor this serious change to which Plums, and occasionally Peaches and 
