January 6, 1881. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
13 
and the shoots on the upper half of the tree were all cut-in to 
about four or six leaves from the base. The shoots were not re¬ 
moved until a fortnight after from the lower portion of the trees, 
so that they should not receive too great a check at one time. 
Many thoughtful men of the present day are acting differently 
in this respect; but while we differ from the old school on many 
points we shall still do well not to quite lose sight of our fore¬ 
fathers’ teachings. 
I will now say something on the present practice. As soon as 
the trees have made shoots with four or five leaves they should be 
examined, and the points of the strongest must be pinched out. 
This will throw more strength into those remaining, so that in a 
fortnight or so these maybe shortened in a similar manner. After 
this they will produce two shoots ; these may be reduced to one 
leaf from their base. By adopting this system the trees do not 
receive a severe check at any time of the year, and they will pro¬ 
duce strong healthy foliage, fully exposed to sun and air; and 
the fruit, receiving the same benefit, will be of a much brighter 
colour and far better flavoured than fruit that has been much 
shaded and then fully exposed. 
I would advise all those adopting this system of pruning to 
leave the terminal shoot of each branch untouched until the 
autumn, as the season passed through will teach the cultivator 
how much it is necessary to reduce these shoots. In addition the 
sap is kept in regular motion if the points are not interfered with ; 
but this would not be the case if they were shortened early in the 
season, except with a very vigorous shoot, which should be stopped, 
and so maintain as evenly balanced a tree as possible. 
If time can be given to carry out the above instructions there 
will be little need to send a man to prune and nail trees on 
walls when he can hardly hold knife or hammer, and he could 
do double the amount of work in warmer weather. 1 do not 
include the pruning of the Peach in the above, as I referred to 
that in previous papers, so it will not be necessary to say more 
respecting it now. 
In conclusion, I may say if too vigorous trees are carefully 
root-pruned and the branches attended to as advised, and with 
favourable weather, we shall be well repaid for the time and 
labour bestowed on them.— Bobt. D. Long. 
MARTYNIAS. 
Many cultivators of annuals are familiar with the beauty of at 
least one species of this genus—namely, M. fragrans, which is un¬ 
doubtedly the most attractive and best adapted for growing in 
gardens. Either in pots or borders during the summer it pro¬ 
duces its rich crimson-purple flowers freely, which are rendered 
additionally pleasing by their powerful and agreeable fragrance. 
To obtain it in good condition outside the seeds should either be 
sown in a rich light warm border about April, or earlier in a 
frame, in the latter case pottmg off the young plants singly, 
hardening, and finally transferring them to the border. Both 
methods give satisfactory results, but it is sometimes found 
advantageous to immerse the seeds in warm water for a short 
period previous to sowing, as they are 
otherwise rather liable to remain dormant 
for a long time, or to germinate irregu¬ 
larly. Some of the plants may be re¬ 
tained in pots for the greenhouse or con¬ 
servatory. 
Several other species of Martynia are 
known, but they are inferior in beauty to 
the one described, though perhaps they 
are more remarkable for their peculiar 
seed vessels. M. lutea, for instance, has 
dense spikes of orange-yellow flowers 
with crimson spots, and is occasionally 
seen in good condition in greenhouses, 
but the fruit as shown in the annexed 
cut is strangely formed. All the species 
are characterised by this peculiarity, 
though in some it is much more strongly 
marked than in others. It is of rough 
woody texture, terminating at first in one 
prolongation, which as the fruit ripens 
separates into two curved hornlike appendages, frequently G inches 
in length, that prove highly obnoxious to travellers in the portions 
of America where it abounds. I have in my possession a fruit 
which exceeds 9 inches in length, the “horns” being quite hard 
and sharp as spines. 
Other forms are M. proboscidea and M. triloba, not very attrac¬ 
tive in their flowers, but peculiar in their fruits ; the last-named is 
also known as “Unguis Diaboli,” a very significant title. M. di- 
Fig. C.—Martyuia lutea 
(fruit). 
andra is occasionally grown, but it is not so free in flowering as 
M. fragrans.—R. L. 
WORKJWheWEEK,. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
With the unusually fine weather in autumn and early winter all 
outside operations should be in a forward state, but when from un¬ 
avoidable circumstances such is not the case, no time must be lost in 
turning up all vacant spaces, so as to give the full advantage of 
frost in pulverising the soil previously to planting. This is very 
necessary in strong soil, and if neglected now it adds considerably 
to the difficulty of sowing or planting. As opportunity offers, the 
present is a good time to examine the stakes required for Peas and 
runner Beans, having them sharpened and dressed ready for use. 
Take up and place under cover any early Broccoli, such as Yeitch’s 
Autumn and Snow’s Winter, of which, with Cauliflower in pits, a 
supply will be maintained for some time yet. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Pines .—The progress of plants generally after potting depends 
much on the condition of the materials employed at the time of 
potting, hence the importance of attending to these matters pre¬ 
viously, so that everything will be in readiness at the time it is wanted 
—usually m March. The necessary quantity of soil should be placed 
where it will be moderately dry without becoming extremely so, but 
it must not be broken up until just before it is needed for potting, as 
only the fibrous part of the loam is required. Give careful attention 
to suckers which are to be started soon; and as these are obtained 
chiefly from winter-fruiting plants, they should, if possible, remain on 
the stools until required for potting. The night temperature for fruiters 
and for plants which are about showing fruit should range from 
CO 0 to G5® at night, and Go® to 70° by day from fire heat, and 75° to 
80° from sun heat; and whenever circumstances permit ventilate 
slightly, and take advantage of every opportunity to close with a 
little sun heat, sprinkling available surfaces about the house. 
Vines .—Great care is now needed in ventilating early houses, 
neither admitting currents of cold air nor neglecting to ventilate 
when requisite, to prevent the temperature rising too highly. Com¬ 
mence ventilation early, increasing it as the temperature rises, and 
when the maximum is reached the ventilation should be gradually re¬ 
duced, and close the house early. Disbud and tie down the shoots 
before they touch the glass. In stopping do not be particular about 
the number of eyes beyond the bunch, but allow the wood to extend 
sufficiently to insure plenty of well-developed foliage. Overcrowding 
the foliage is, however, very injurious. Superfluous bunches should 
be removed as soon as the most promising can be selected. Avoid 
overcropping, and keep the house a little warmer and drier as the 
flowers open. Maintain the heat in the fermenting material, keeping 
a good heap of Oak leaves and stable dung in the reserve groun d 
from which supplies may be obtained. 
Cucumbers .—Continue a temperature of 70° to 75° in the day, and 
Go® at night, falling to GO® on cold mornings. Yentilateat the top of 
the house at 75°, and allow an advance from sun heat to 80° or 85 ; 
but instead of admitting cold air it is better to allow the temperature 
to advance a little. Examine plants in bearing twice a week, remov¬ 
ing weakly and exhausted growths, reserving as much of the young 
bearing wood as will maintain a suitable equilibrium between the 
foliage and roots, remembering that nothing is so unprofitable as 
crowding. Stop the shoots one or two joints beyond the fruit, being 
guided in this matter by the vigour of the plants. Dust a little sul¬ 
phur over the foliage and pipes to arrest the progress of red spider and 
mildew, and upon the first appearance of canker press quicklime well 
into the affected parts. Young plants should not be allowed to bear 
too soon, and must not on any account be overcropped. Remove 
the staminate blossoms as they appear. The floors should be damped 
