86 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. f February s, iwi. 
Peas are apt to grow very vigorously, and are later accordingly. 
I account for the earliness of the field crops from the fact of 
the seed being sown on comparatively poor soil; and from 
exposure to the sun and air the plants do not make much 
superfluous growth. To succeed those transplanted it is neces¬ 
sary to sow more seed of the same varieties either on a warm 
border or in the open, as early as possible in February ; and if 
the earliest are sown direct another sowing should be made 
when these are pushing through the soil. As I have before 
stated, my favourite varieties for the principal early crops are 
Harbinger and William I., and if either of these are unobtain¬ 
able, or a third variety be tried, then I recommend Suttons’ 
Emerald Gem. 
Some gardeners consider sowing and transplanting Peas a 
troublesome process, but I venture to assert the amount of 
trouble necessarily taken is more apparent than real; and that 
it is less trouble and often more profitable to raise the plants 
under glass and transplant them than to sow in the border. I 
am alluding to sowings made early in the year, late autumn 
sawing being in my opinion often a waste of labour and seed. 
If it -were really necessary to sow in turves, troughs, and even 
pots, then the case might be slightly different; but after having 
tried all these methods I have arrived at the conclusion that 
better results are obtained by sowing in ordinary bedding 
Pelargonium boxes ; and also that it is preferable to sow the 
seed early in January, and place the boxes in a cold frame 
rather than in heat later on, followed by the requisite harden¬ 
ing off of the plants. The boxes should have a layer of clean 
potsherds over the bottom, principally to prevent the primary 
roots from clinging to the wood, and thereby being much 
damaged when transplanted. The soil employed should be light 
and fine ; we use fully one-half sifted leaf soil, and from this 
the roots separate freely, and can be laid-in to their full length. 
This last is not generally the case with plants raised in pots or 
turves, and these I find do not so readily establish themselves 
in the surrounding soil, and owing to the diversion of tap roots 
do not root so deeply. 
When we transplant our Peas, which is usually on the first 
favourable opportunity in March, a line is drawn, and on each 
side, and about 2 inches clear, a deep narrow trench is taken 
out with a spade, as if for laying Box ; the plants are shaken 
out, laid-in singly about 2 inches apart, and the soil carefully 
worked about the roots. By these simple means rows of strong 
plants are formed, which are generally too old for the birds to 
eat, and will grow away without any marked check. They are 
at once earthed up and staked, and with well-hardened plants 
no other protection is necessaiy. If second early or main crop 
varieties are required early for any particular purpose they can, 
as a rule, only be had by sowing under glass and transplanting. 
Last season Webb’s Triumph, a main crop variety, so treated 
was fit for use when wanted —viz., June 29th.—W. Iggulden. 
ROSES ON THEIR OWN ROOTS AND OTHERWISE. 
In his review of the “Rosarians’Year Book for 1881 ” “J. A. W.,” 
on page 49, deservedly draws attention to the able articles of Mr. 
George Baker. I cordially endorse the high opinion “ J. A. W.” 
forms of them. They are certainly most ably written ; and as 
Mr. Baker is known to be a successful grower, a careful observer, 
as well as a concise writer on matters pertaining to the Rose, his 
articles may be advantageously read by all who attempt the cul¬ 
tivation of the Rose for pleasure or profit. 
With respect to the cultivation of Roses on their own roots, 
which the reviewer thinks a fit subject for the Committee of the 
National Rose Society to take up so as to make a list of those 
varieties likely to do and thrive without the help of a foster-parent, 
I consider premature. The attempt would, at the present time at 
least, end in failure or prove very misleading, for the simple 
reason that the system of growing Roses in quantity on their own 
roots, especially for exhibition purposes, must as yet be quite in 
its infancy. 
That some Roses do as well on their own roots as on any kind 
of stock I readily admit, though I should hesitate to give a list of 
such. Marechal Niel I am certain will not do well on its own 
roots, and the stocks most congenial to it are the Briar and the 
De la Grifferaie. This Rose strikes root most readily, but it is 
very disappointing in its growth afterwards. 
To produce Roses in quantity on their own roots is a very slow 
process, consequently it is a question if it will ever become general 
enough to annihilate the foster-parents of the Rose. Some growers 
for sale are able to supply plants on their own roots, but I ques¬ 
tion if they do not send out more thousands on stocks than dozens 
that have been raised from cuttings. That there are advantages 
attending this mode of culture in some instances no one can deny, 
only in the present age of hurry and advancement most growers 
are anxious for the results of their labour to make its appearance 
in a much shorter time than can be attained by the slow and 
tedious process in question. 
It is well known that most rosarians have a fancy for some 
particular stock on which they find their plants do best and make 
the most satisfactory returns. A great change has been brought 
about in the number and choice of Rose stocks during the last 
thirty years, which has most certainly assisted in giving an extra¬ 
ordinary impetus to Rose-growing. Roses judicially selected on 
a stock known to be suitable for the soil and situation they are 
intended to be planted in, and fairly treated, will assuredly make 
a much more gratifying return than they could possibly do when 
a haphazard selection is made, and when worked on a stock only 
suitable for soil the very opposite to that in which they are intended 
to be planted. If beginners in Rose-growing were only authori¬ 
tatively guided by any one of our well-known Rose-growers, the 
results would not only astonish them but afford them much plea¬ 
sure. It would be altogether wrong to unduly magnify the results 
likely to accrue from a proper selection of stocks in very indif¬ 
ferent soil, but that good ordinary Rose blooms fit either for 
garden or decorative purposes would be obtained I unhesitatingly 
assert.— Oxonian. 
• 
THE SEED ORDER. 
(Continued from page 66.) 
As the Cauliflower season lasts some seven months, and as most 
people like Cauliflowers, this must be considered one of the 
principal vegetables. Success here perhaps depends more on 
management than on the selection of varieties, because it is 
scarcely possible to obtain seed of a bad variety from a respectable 
firm now when there are so many good ones in the market. I 
depend still for the first main crop on the true stock of Early 
London, for although the newer early and reputed early varieties 
are not neglected, I have not personally proved them sufficiently 
to depend exclusively on them. I have half an ounce of this, one 
ounce of Walcheren, and two packets of Yeitch’s Autumn Giant. 
The sowing for the first spring crop takes place during the first 
week in September, which is later than is advised in any of the 
calendars I have read. It is made in a warm position out of doors, 
and as soon as the plants have formed the first rough leaf they 
are carefully pricked out about 4 inches apart in a frame raised 
a little above the ground level by means of some rather dry litter, 
where they remain with as little protection as is necessary till 
February, then to be transplanted about 9 inches apart in a warm 
corner, with a plank running along each side of the bed, on which 
shutters or lights can rest when required. Later on three-fourths 
of them are carefully lifted with balls of earth, and planted in 
the open ground, leaving the remainder, which are then 18 inches 
apart, to be still protected when necessary. The second sowing is 
made early in February between rows of Potatoes in a warm 
frame. This sowing consists of the three main varieties—viz , 
Early London, Walcheren, and Autumn Giant. Another sowing 
of tke same varieties is made early in March where the plants 
can be protected with glass, and a third and fourth outside during 
the same month. Two or three sowings consisting exclusively of 
Walcheren are made during April and the early part of May, and 
the final sowing about the middle of May, when Early London is 
used as well as Walcheren. 
Of Celery I grow three varieties. Major Clarke’s Red is the best 
in quality, but it is neither the earliest nor the hardiest. Sand¬ 
ringham Dwarf White is fit to use first, and for standing through 
the winter I use Williams’ Matchless Red. The old large-rooted 
Chicory is preferred to the Whitloof variety, and the latter is 
discarded. Chervil is in almost daily request and must not be 
neglected. It is hardy in most positions, and about two sowings 
will suffice. Of Cress the plain or common is quite as good for 
common use as the more expensive Extra Curled variety. Ayton 
Castle and Musselburgh Leeks are used, and one ounce of each is 
sufficient. 
Of Cucumbers I save my own seed, but those who require a 
variety to depend on during winter may select from Masters’ 
Prolific, Rollisson’s Telegraph, and Dickson’s Favourite. Ridge 
Cucumbers and Gherkins are not grown, the small fruits from 
those grown in houses and pits ausvvering very veil for pickling 
purposes. 
