96 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t February s, isbi. 
t'on is very large, and the species and varieties in those genera are 
thoroughly well grown in the nurseries under notice ; and many 
gardeners who imagine the difficulties attending the culture of 
those plants are so great, would be surprised to see the freedom 
with which they grow when a little skill is exercised in providing 
the particular temperature and humidity needed. In leaving one 
of these departments I observed a remarkably handsome specimen 
of Eucharis grandiflora with broad deep green leaves, and about 
thirty scapes, each bearing several large flowers—an admirable 
example of culture, and proving what can be obtained by careful 
treatment even within reach of the London smoke. 
Greenhouses. —The display of flowers was not very extensive 
in these houses, for it is somewhat early in the season, but judging 
from the healthy appearance of Heaths, New Holland plants, and 
others to which departments are specially devoted, there is every 
promise of satisfactory flowering at a later period. Though it is 
generally believed that the demand for hardwooded plants is 
greatly diminished, this is not the case to such an extent as 
imagined, for large numbers are yearly propagated to maintain 
the supply. Yet there are many beautiful plants now compara¬ 
tively scarce which might well be recalled to public notice, and if 
especial skill is requisite in their culture they are, when well at¬ 
tended, more creditable to the grower than are the majority of soft- 
wooded plants. In the Camellia house there was a grand show of 
buds, the handsome rich green clean foliage indicating the health 
of the plants and the prospects of good and abundant flowers. A 
few were already expanded, among them being the old but useful 
and floriferous variety Donckelaarii with its large crimson and 
white mottled blooms. Another neat double-flowered variety very 
profuse and of good habit was David Boschi, the blooms of mode¬ 
rate size and rosy pink in colour. Madame Ambroise Yerschaifelt 
with white blooms marked with reddish crimson was a noteworthy 
variety ; but Comtesse Mastiana was particularly fine, with beauti¬ 
ful foliage, of good habit, and bearing white symmetrical flowers 
slightly streaked with pinkish crimson. 
One other plant I wish to note. This is a new Imantophyllum, 
received by Mr. B. S. Williams from the Cape of Good Hope, 
whence it was forwarded by one of his collectors a few years ago. 
It was considered distinct, and was appropriately named Imanto¬ 
phyllum concinnum. The plant was growing in a warm house, 
but I suppose it is amenable to the same treatment as its con¬ 
geners, with any of the small-flowered forms of which it can be 
favourably compared. It is quite in the way of I. cyrthanthi- 
florum, but is superior to it in the colour of the flowers, which is 
much brighter, something of an orange-scarlet tint. The engrav¬ 
ing (fig. 22) was prepared from the specimen referred to above, 
and represents a scape from a plant in extremely good condition. 
The small figure indicates the habit. It is unquestionably an 
elegant plant, and one that should be grown by all who admire 
the genus in which it is included. The figure now given is, I 
believe, the first published.—L. Castle. 
j/|Sj 
*5 WOKK.F0fl.THEWEEK.' 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Where outdoor operations are still stopped by the weather atten¬ 
tion should be given to such work as making labels of various sizes, 
also the pointing of Pea sticks, stakes for Runner Beans, &c., so as to 
save time later on. When the weather becomes favourable make a 
small sowing of Early Munich Turnip upon a warm south border, 
also Early Nantes Carrot in a similar position, giving a good dressing 
of soot before sowing, and point it in, A sowing of Radishes should 
be made on a border at the base of a south wall, also a small sowing 
of some early variety of Cabbage Lettuce, such as Early Paris Market, 
and White Naples or Queen Onion in a similar position. When the 
weather is favourable take up Jerusalem Artichokes, placing those re¬ 
quired for use in damp sand, and make fresh plantations in good soil 
and an open situation, planting 12 to 15 inches asunder in rows 24 to 
30 inches apart. When Seakale is taken up regularly for forcing a 
plantation of the smaller roots or crowns may now be made in rows 
18 inches apart; and if necessary make fresh plantations of Rhubarb, 
which to be good should be replanted every third year in ground 
deeply trenched and heavily manured, selecting strong crowns from 
the older roots. 
Forcing Department .—Sow Celery in pans for early use, placing 
them in gentle heat, and when the plants appear keep them near the 
glass. Sandringham White and Leicester Red are suitable varieties. 
Make a sowing on a hotbed of Brussels Sprouts, Early London and 
Walcheren Cauliflower, and if necessary of early varieties of Cabbage. 
Where a bed of fermenting materials has been prepared place a frame 
over it and sow Cabbage and Cos Lettuce, ventilating freely after the 
plants appear. A good supply of fermenting leaves and dung, three 
parts of the former to one of the latter, should be prepared for lining 
hotbeds on which Radishes, Carrots, and Potatoes are growing, also 
to make up fresh beds for like purposes as required. Sets of Potatoes 
should be placed in boxes and covered with leaf soil, an early Peach 
house or vinery being suitable to start them into growth; and when 
the shoots are a couple of inches long plant on beds prepared to 
receive them, the soil having been previously warmed.j '^Introduce 
fresh roots of Rhubarb and Seakale to the Mushroom house to main¬ 
tain the succession. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—When the fruit is all set in the earliest 
house syringing the trees must not be neglected in favourable weather 
to prevent insects increasing. Where the fruit is too thickly set a 
few of the smallest may be rubbed off, especially those at the back 
of the trellis. Disbudding the young shoots will need attention, but 
proceed cautiously, taking only a few of the strongest foreright shoots 
at a time, retaining a growth as near the ba3e of the current bearing 
shoots as possible, and another above, or at least level with the fruit, 
to draw the sap to it. Eumigate carefully upon the first appearance 
of aphides. Allow a night temperature of 55° to 60°, GO 0 to 05® by 
day, with an advance from sun heat to 70° or 75°. Early Peach houses 
in frosty weather require careful attention, cold draughts giving a 
check to the foliage and young fruit. On clear sunny frosty days it 
is better to allow the temperature to rise a little than to ventilate 
excessively to reduce it. Eor inside borders some weak liquid 
manure will aid the fruit swelling in their first stage, but it must 
not be afforded trees that are too vigorous. Trees in the house started 
early last month are in full blossom ; discontinue syringing, except 
to damp the borders and pathways once or twice a day, according 
to the weather, until the fruit is fairly set. If there be a super¬ 
abundance of bloom thinning may be practised with advantage, 
removing blooms with two or three pistils, and those at the back or 
under side of the shoots, retaining the most vigorous and best placed. 
Continue 50° as the night temperature, 55° by day, ventilating above 
that degree, and allow an advance from sun heat to 65°. Leave the 
ventilators slightly open all night. Fertilise the blossoms every day 
when the pollen is in a fit state, either with a camel’s-hair pencil or 
other suitable means. The house for affording ripe fruit about the 
middle of July may now be closed, damping the trees and paths in 
the morning and afternoon, the latter sufficiently early to have the 
trees fairly dry before night. In the day 50° is sufficient, advancing 
to 60° or 65° from sun heat with full ventilation, and 40° to 45° at 
night from fire heat. Continue the pruning, training, and dressing 
of the trees in late houses with as little delay as possible. Ventilate 
fully, except during frost, so as to retard the flowering, and see that 
there is no deficiency of moisture in the inside borders. 
Vines .—Vines started last month will now be growing freely, 
and with fermenting materials in the house progress will now be 
rapid. Syringe the rods well three times a day until the bunches are 
formed, when it should be discontinued; but atmospheric moisture 
must be provided by frequently damping the walls and paths. 
Mulching is also beneficial, as the ammonia rising from it will assist 
the foliage and keep red spider in check. Ventilation will require 
great care, especially in frosty or cold windy weather. Keep the 
fires going every morning until a little air can be given, closing early, 
and allowing a rise of 5° to 10° on fine afternoons after closing. 
Houses where the Vines are flowering should be kept at a steady 
night temperature of 65°, with a rise to 70° or 75° by day, and an 
advance of 5° to 10° after closing. Assist fertilisation by drawing 
the points of the bunches to the light, shaking the Vines every day, 
