116 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. c February 10, mi. 
The Rev. G. Henslow (Secretary) exhibited some Bamboos, showing 
in one case horizontal nodes, in another oblique, the popular idea 
being that the latter were grown on hillsides, and such growth 
strengthened the stem. The President negatived this view, and said 
it was a specific characteristic only. 
Wood Attached by a Fungus. —He also exhibited a piece of wood, 
which appeared to have been partially sawed through and the sur¬ 
face rendered irregular by the attack of some fungus. 
Parmelia parietria —He also showed a specimen on a rock from 
Cheddar, exhibiting curious zones of lichen. 
Pottery Stained by Tobacco Juice. — He also exhibited pieces of 
chinaware, ornamented by placing a drop of tobacco juice on the 
unbaked clay. This penetrates by capillary attraction, and forms a 
dendritic arrangement, which is fixed by sizing and baking. 
URCEOLINA PENDULA. 
the buds are mostly bloom buds, and at the upper part wood buds 
only ; but stronger and more elongated growths may be cut back 
to about 10 inches from the base or to a well-situated wood bud. 
Extensions need only be shortened as necessary to originate growths 
where required for covering the space regularly, this applying more 
especially to the centre or upright part of the trees ; the side exten¬ 
sions need only be cut back so as to remove immature wood. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Borders containing herbaceous plants, bulbs, A - c., should be neatly 
forked over, taking advantage whilst working among them to reduce 
plants that have become too large, or to divide and increase the choice 
or desirable. Liliums may now be planted, being very effective in 
borders backed by evergreens, or among Rhododendrons in the peat 
and open spaces of which they revel. The bulbs should be planted 
This beautiful Amaryllidaceous plant was discovered by Mr. 
Pearce in Peru, and sent out in 1866 by Messrs. Veitch, Chelsea. 
It was figured in the “ Botanical Magazine ” for September, 
1864, and received a first-class certificate from the Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society. 
The leaves are broadly ovate, not unlike Eucharis amazonica, 
but considerably modified in size and texture, and are deciduous, 
though in young non-flowering plants the foliage is frequently 
retained over the resting period. The flowers are produced in an 
umbel of gracefully drooping bell-shaped flowers, bright yellow 
tipped with green, and supported by a scape 9 to 15 inches in 
height according to the vigour of the bulbs. It is a singularly 
graceful and peculiarly pleasing and showy plant, and of a colour 
uncommon in stove bulbs. It flowers freely, usually in autumn. 
I have had plants flower in September and as late as January. 
It is of easy culture and does not require much room. The 
majority of our plants are in 5-inch pots, and 6 and 7-inch pots 
are quite large enough for the largest bulbs, or three to five may 
be grown in the latter size of pot; but there is no advantage in 
this, for it is seldom that all the bulbs flower simultaneously. 
Potting is best done in February or early March, taking care 
not to injure the roots. Turfy loam with a little leaf soil and a 
dash of sand grows it perfectly. Water is required freely when 
in growth, yet it must be applied judiciously, as an excess will 
cause the roots to perish, It requires to be grown near to the 
glass, and succeeds admirably in a cool stove temperature. The 
bulbs in potting should be covered level with the neck. When 
the leaves show indications of maturing lessen the supply of 
water, and after going to rest keep the soil moist. It is increased 
by offsets.—G. Abbey. 
4 
1 
M. 
n 
WORK.fWHEWEEK.. : 
IK* 
about G inches deep, and be covered and surrounded with sand. 
Gladioli for early flowering should now be planted, especially of the 
ramosus section, treating similarly to the Liliums. Plant Anemones 
and Ranunculuses in deep rich soil with a pinch of sand around them, 
sowing seed of Anemone for autumn flowering. Make a sowing of 
Sweet Peas and Mignonette in a warm situation for early flowering. 
Roses and other climbers on walls and trellises should now be pruned, 
regulated, and tied in. Any standard or dwarf Hybrid Perpetual 
Roses required to bloom early should be pruned at once, deferring 
the main pruning until later. 
Forward the propagation of all bedding plants from stock plants 
as cuttings are available. Tricolor and other choice Pelargoniums 
should have a little heat, so that cuttings may be obtained, which 
may be partly severed and left on the plants a week or ten days to 
callus, afterwards detaching and potting them in small pots placed on 
shelves near the glass. Roots of any choice Dahlias may be plunged 
in a bed of cocoa-nut fibre refuse, in which the young shoots root 
freely, they can then be taken off and potted. No time should be 
lost in sowing seed of subtropical and other bedding plants, such 
as Acacia lophantha, Centaurea, Cineraria, Ferdinandias, Melianthus, 
Solanums, Wigandias, Ac. ; but those of quick growth, such as 
Amaranthuses, Ricinus, Zeas, Ac., should not be sown until early 
April. Divide and place in heat Cannas and similar plants, starting 
all stock plants required for propagating. Herbaceous Lobelias may 
now be divided and started in gentle heat. Calceolarias wintered in 
store pots or boxes should now be planted out m cold pits or frames. 
Pansies and Violas struck in autumn may now be planted out per¬ 
manently : they like rich moderately stiff loam, or, failing this, dress 
the beds with decayed manure. Pot off autumn-struck cuttings of 
Ageratums, Abutilons, Heliotropes, Pelargoniums—indeed all plants 
likely to suffer by remaining in store pots. Whenever cuttings are 
to be had of Alternantheras, Coleuses, Iresines, Ac., insert them 
without delay. 
PLANT HORSES. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Complete the pruning of Apricots, cutting back any attenuated 
spurs, and thinning out those that are crowded, and also cut out some 
of the long growths. Lay in young wood where space permits, 
but avoid overcrowding; if you desire to obtain fine fruit it is 
essential that the wood be freely exposed to light and air. If the 
trees are not unnailed or untied the ligatures should be carefully 
examined, and if any growths are too tightly secured the ties must be 
loosened, as inattention to this matter induces the production of gum 
and causes other injuries. 
The pruning of Peaches and Nectarines should be proceeded with, 
thinning out crowded long bare branches, and so disposing those 
retained as to equalise the growth as far as practicable. Trees that 
are loosened from the walls should be dressed with some approved 
insecticide, whilst those not loosened should be well syringed with 
the same, also attending to previous remarks concerning the ligature. 
The branches of a Peach or Nectarine should be 12 to 15 inches 
distance apart, and the bearing wood a similar distance asunder along 
them, and starting from the upper side. The bearinsr wood—i.e., 
shoots of last year, if not more than a foot in length need not be 
shortened, especially if, as often occurs at the lower part of the tree, 
Greenhouse. —Pelargoniums as they fill their pots with roots will 
require more water or the leaves will suffer. Treat the Fancy varie¬ 
ties with care in this respect, as they cannot bear so much moisture 
at the roots as the large varieties. Keep the plants near the glass, 
and well tied out. Promptly fumigate upon the appearance of 
aphides. Calceolarias should be potted as they require it; small-sized 
plants in G or 7-inch pots are most suitable for general decoration, 
but where desired they may be grown larger by shifting them into 
8 or 10-inch pots. Assist growing plants with liquid manure. Liliums 
will be pushing, and should be placed in a good light position so as to 
induce a sturdy growth. A pinch of Cineraria seed sown now will 
produce plants that will flower early next winter, and be useful, 
especially the self-coloured blue and shades of crimson and purple. 
Daphne indica is much appreciated for its fragrance, but is seldom 
seen in good condition, chiefly because it is frequently overpotted and 
overwatered. Plants that were brought early into flower should be 
encouraged to gro-w by placing them in a night temperature of 50°, 
with a rise of 5° to 10° by day, syringing lightly overhead. Examine 
the roots, and if they fill the pots transfer to others a couple of inches 
larger, employing either turfy loam ©r fibrous peat, with a free 
admixture of sand. 
